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Start by removing the bulb from the right front signal. It may be shorting the circuit.
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Chevy - GMC Chassis / Re: AC condenser/Oil cooler leak
« Last post by eXodus on August 09, 2022, 05:06 AM »
You can change the oil cooler without draining the oil. 
I would just let it sit overnight - so the oil cooler will be almost empty when you work on it.
Just refill what you loose.

Can't tell you which fittings you got.  The 90s had been the period where GM slowly transitioned from SAE to Metric. 
My 1996 was mostly Metric.   yet even in on my 2003 P30 - the Hydroboost threads are still SAE threads but with a Metric Head.

Weird stuff.
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Dodge - Chrysler Chassis / Re: Fuel Tank Filler needs replaced
« Last post by Oz on August 09, 2022, 12:29 AM »
You can try RV salvage companies like Arizona RV salvage. Just be sure to ask about the condition.
I also think it wouldn't be difficult to fabricate one.
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Dodge - Chrysler Chassis / Fuel Tank Filler needs replaced
« Last post by Randy Gottier on August 08, 2022, 10:48 PM »
  I have a 72 D18 The fuel filling neck on the winnie is super rusty and gas runs down the side of the unit so I want to replace it
 Just seeking so info on a replacement to solve the problem.  The winnie is in the shop now so I cant look at it to measure
 anything. Where would I find a replacement?
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Dodge - Chrysler Chassis / Re: 72 Brave Front Axle Swap/Disc Conversion
« Last post by LJ-TJ on August 08, 2022, 10:35 PM »
 :)ThmbUp Man oh, man oh man. Your killing it. What a great job. Not to mention I love the way you blocked it up to work on it. I've always been skid-dish about using jack stands. When they brake they got no place to go but down. Well done Mate. well done.
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Topics for all Chassis / Re: Power distribution time 83 holiday rambler
« Last post by Mlw on August 08, 2022, 07:58 PM »
I already thought that solenoid was there for Hot wiring purposes. But I'm not familiar with you RV and looking at it, it sure doesn't look like a Hot wire system right now.

On the forum I helped several people out with their electrical issues, all different type of RV's. Seeing wiring diagrams and communicating with the owners, whatever the make, the coach wiring set up of at least all the USA RV's is in my experience identical and differs in extra setups like generators and appliances.

Let's not speculate any longer, making things only more difficult for you, because I'm guessing you will have, like me, a lot of work to do. But electricity is logical, transferring power from point A to Point B. To do that you need cabling. The more power you want to transport the thicker the wire must be.

The formula you can use for RV cabling is simple Amps/4 = MM. Use a conversion cart to convert it in gauges.
To calculate your amperage Watts/12

What you need to do is calculate what the powerconsumption will be when everything is on at once. This will probably never happen, but nowadays we do use a lot more power than back then because of computers, TV's higher powered radio's, mobile phones etc. If you have an estimate, you'll know how thick your wires from the house batteries need to be and I'm guessing it will be around 16 mm. As far as I understand this is Gauge 0? This is the wiring I am using now from the house batteries to my powerstation and the distribution block in the battery compartment.

I also really hope you are not telling me that they Hot Wired the RV over that single wire that I see on the solenoid. I have that solenoid too but in my RV it is connected to a cable of 16MM, so probably as thick as the cable you now are making the ground connection with and is really the cable you need for starting thru hot wiring.

Now I thought about it longer, but the conversation with you pushed me to make a wiring diagram how I set up the system now. I kept it as original as possible. But as the charger and converter in My RV didn't work properly I ripped them out, disconnected the solenoid that switched between DC and AC put a new charger in. So now the power to the coach is always fed from the batteries, with AC feeding a charger strong enough to keep everything going when on shorepower and even charging the batteries when not full. As you are planning going solar anyway, I would advise you to look into this as well.

Now, I still need to add the colorcoding of the coach wiring, but all the wiring to the powerstation and of the AC system is complete.



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Chevy - GMC Chassis / Re: AC condenser/Oil cooler leak
« Last post by udidwht on August 08, 2022, 07:05 PM »
interesting haven't seen that configuration yet.

My 1996 P30  454 has the Oil lines going to the main radiator, seems like yours going around.

GM usually keeps all fittings the same, no idea what they are but when you buy a stand alone GM Oil cooler from that time period, I would assume it fits.

Got my hands on a schematic of the AC condenser w/integral oil cooler that is installed in my 94...

https://www.dropbox.com/s/3jtwk6g774rn35f/RV%20Condenser-Oil%20cooler.jpg?dl=0

Fittings for the oil cooler (lower right in schematic) are 3/4-16 male
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Introduce Yourself / Re: Hello! Revcon owner checking in
« Last post by Mlw on August 08, 2022, 05:12 PM »
Ah OK, It shure looked like it, and then you got your work cut out for you.

This time I could make the picture bigger and it seems I saw the reflection of the clouds in the skin, so oven more so, What a rig  :)ThmbUp
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Introduce Yourself / Re: Hello! Revcon owner checking in
« Last post by sploke on August 08, 2022, 12:12 AM »
What a flagship  :)ThmbUp.

But do I see a whole lot of delamination in picture 4?

The whole thing is riveted stretch-formed aluminum, so there's nothing to delam.  The front and rear caps are fiberglass.  There's definitely some wavy areas in the skin though.
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Topics for all Chassis / Re: Power distribution time 83 holiday rambler
« Last post by Eyez Open on August 07, 2022, 10:31 PM »
quick reply and posting a pic is taboo i see. Oops not a cell phone however.

Below one can see the power distribution coming into the entire starting circuit and house battery system.

Diagram 2 show more detail. Creating a ground to chassis made a circuit, any load cuts it out. That solenoid in the in the house battery supply is highly suspect.


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