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#11
Dodge - Chrysler Chassis / Re: Click and... no 12v power ...
Last post by Mosin - July 25, 2024, 04:50 PMIt was the battery 
Since it's 105 today I mustered a basic finger-tight test of grounds (all good, looking clean) hooked up a known good marine batt and blammo, 440 heaven!
Not sure why a 2-year old battery that has been consistently charged/maintained, showed 13v on a multimeter, and subsequently checked out as "good" when tested by kind staff at point of sale would fail as it has (even in conjunction with a beefy jumpstarter), but apparently the curse of "Valuecraft/Autozone" strikes again!
I will retitle with "Solved". Thanks for the replies Mike!
Since it's 105 today I mustered a basic finger-tight test of grounds (all good, looking clean) hooked up a known good marine batt and blammo, 440 heaven!Not sure why a 2-year old battery that has been consistently charged/maintained, showed 13v on a multimeter, and subsequently checked out as "good" when tested by kind staff at point of sale would fail as it has (even in conjunction with a beefy jumpstarter), but apparently the curse of "Valuecraft/Autozone" strikes again!
I will retitle with "Solved". Thanks for the replies Mike!
#12
Dodge - Chrysler Chassis / Re: Click and... no 12v power ...
Last post by RockwoodMike - July 25, 2024, 03:06 PMAnother point that could go bad is the connection of the copper cable to the end fitting..The thing that is crimped or soldered to the cable..Sometimes that connection can become loose from vibration
#13
Dodge - Chrysler Chassis / Re: Click and... no 12v power ...
Last post by Mosin - July 25, 2024, 02:05 PMThe main ground cable from the battery runs to a post inside the battery compartment, where it meets a ground cable extending to the engine, which is itself then grounded to the frame (thus, three ground wires and three connecting points). I'm about to go down and try a different battery, so I will be sure to remove and clean all of the grounds, even though they are looking clean and feel tight. Many thanks for the response!
#14
Dodge - Chrysler Chassis / Re: Click and... no 12v power ...
Last post by RockwoodMike - July 25, 2024, 10:10 AMWhere is the main cable ground being bolted to? The frame or the engine?
If the cable is to the engine, then there needs a good cable back to the frame..
In essence the engine is insulated because of the 3 rubber engine and transmission mounts..so there should be a cable from the engine to the frame to counter that insulation..
If the connections are good on the cables everywhere. it doesn't mean they are making good contact..A full removal of each cable to clean and create good contact is the only way to be sure..
Moisture will get everywhere causing corrosion..and it may look like a good contact, but it really is not
If the cable is to the engine, then there needs a good cable back to the frame..
In essence the engine is insulated because of the 3 rubber engine and transmission mounts..so there should be a cable from the engine to the frame to counter that insulation..
If the connections are good on the cables everywhere. it doesn't mean they are making good contact..A full removal of each cable to clean and create good contact is the only way to be sure..
Moisture will get everywhere causing corrosion..and it may look like a good contact, but it really is not
#15
Dodge - Chrysler Chassis / Click and... no 12v power anyw...
Last post by Mosin - July 24, 2024, 11:28 PMGreetings all,
Long time since I've been stumped and unable to find a solution via forum search, which is a testament to the invaluable aggregated knowledge here! The recent "Click - No Start Again" thread describes a similar condition but Pandora's new glitch has an added twist that has me stumped.
A bit of relevant background: last month before an outing I brought my fully charged 12v battery to the rig (which is started and/or driven at least every two weeks) and was surprised when I turned the key, heard a solenoid click, and then experienced a complete "No 12v Power Anywhere" condition where the engine wouldn't turn over, and there was no power going to the lights, the backup camera, or any non-key enabled 12v accessories. It was as if no battery was hooked up or the battery was completely dead. I briefly went over the wiring and looked at the relays, and nothing looked burnt/amiss. Grounds are tight as always. Strange! Sure that the battery was fully charged, I removed the positive cable and replaced it, and once again, power returned to the 12v components, the panel lit up when I turned the key to the first position, and the rig then fired up on the first try. It was disconcerting since I never figured out what was going on, but the rig started and drove fine for the weekend trip to Joshua Tree. FWIW the point of that background is that this exact condition appeared temporarily a few weeks ago but went undiagnosed. In the interim the rig started and drove perfectly.
Today, the same condition returned, yet this time it isn't magically going away (go figure) and Pandora is stuck. As before, after hooking up the freshly charged battery all of the 12v accessories/components work (eg. backup cam on switch, the ignition key in pos. one lights up the dash panel and the 12v fuel pump turns on, yet the moment I try to start the engine there is a distinct solenoid click, and then all 12v power is lost (no lights, no backup cam, no fuel pump, no ignition click) until I unhook the battery and reconnect it, at which point the 12v accessories work again. <== THIS is why I am especially stumped, because I am unaware of a single component (besides the 12v battery itself) that gatekeeps all 12v accessories as well as the starter, such that its intermittent functioning or failure would lead to the condition I am experiencing.
To pose my conundrum in the form of a question: what component's failure could produce a condition where on initiating startup all 12v power from the battery is cut off to both starter and accessories until the battery is disconnected and reconnected? Again, the rig will subsequently fail to start and go completely "dead" when the key is turned to the second position.
Two last points: the battery is fully charged, tested good, and was supplemented by a jump starter for good measure. Battery cables are virtually new, and grounds are tight. I will check and double check again (I'll be taking a different battery over tomorrow and going over wiring/grounds again for the heck of it) but these do not seem to be the culprits.
Thoughts?
Thanks!
Dave
Long time since I've been stumped and unable to find a solution via forum search, which is a testament to the invaluable aggregated knowledge here! The recent "Click - No Start Again" thread describes a similar condition but Pandora's new glitch has an added twist that has me stumped.
A bit of relevant background: last month before an outing I brought my fully charged 12v battery to the rig (which is started and/or driven at least every two weeks) and was surprised when I turned the key, heard a solenoid click, and then experienced a complete "No 12v Power Anywhere" condition where the engine wouldn't turn over, and there was no power going to the lights, the backup camera, or any non-key enabled 12v accessories. It was as if no battery was hooked up or the battery was completely dead. I briefly went over the wiring and looked at the relays, and nothing looked burnt/amiss. Grounds are tight as always. Strange! Sure that the battery was fully charged, I removed the positive cable and replaced it, and once again, power returned to the 12v components, the panel lit up when I turned the key to the first position, and the rig then fired up on the first try. It was disconcerting since I never figured out what was going on, but the rig started and drove fine for the weekend trip to Joshua Tree. FWIW the point of that background is that this exact condition appeared temporarily a few weeks ago but went undiagnosed. In the interim the rig started and drove perfectly.
Today, the same condition returned, yet this time it isn't magically going away (go figure) and Pandora is stuck. As before, after hooking up the freshly charged battery all of the 12v accessories/components work (eg. backup cam on switch, the ignition key in pos. one lights up the dash panel and the 12v fuel pump turns on, yet the moment I try to start the engine there is a distinct solenoid click, and then all 12v power is lost (no lights, no backup cam, no fuel pump, no ignition click) until I unhook the battery and reconnect it, at which point the 12v accessories work again. <== THIS is why I am especially stumped, because I am unaware of a single component (besides the 12v battery itself) that gatekeeps all 12v accessories as well as the starter, such that its intermittent functioning or failure would lead to the condition I am experiencing.
To pose my conundrum in the form of a question: what component's failure could produce a condition where on initiating startup all 12v power from the battery is cut off to both starter and accessories until the battery is disconnected and reconnected? Again, the rig will subsequently fail to start and go completely "dead" when the key is turned to the second position.
Two last points: the battery is fully charged, tested good, and was supplemented by a jump starter for good measure. Battery cables are virtually new, and grounds are tight. I will check and double check again (I'll be taking a different battery over tomorrow and going over wiring/grounds again for the heck of it) but these do not seem to be the culprits.
Thoughts?
Thanks!
Dave
#16
Project Blogs / Re: 83 Holiday Imperial refres...
Last post by RockwoodMike - July 24, 2024, 05:27 PMThat thing is Gigantic 
with your toes in the air, it looks like you passed out on the ground
80 gallon tanks are what propane companies set up at houses..not motorhomes!!
I guess it is empty..Maneuvering that thing would be very difficult if it was full
with your toes in the air, it looks like you passed out on the ground
80 gallon tanks are what propane companies set up at houses..not motorhomes!!
I guess it is empty..Maneuvering that thing would be very difficult if it was full
#17
Project Blogs / Re: 83 Holiday Imperial refres...
Last post by Eyez Open - July 24, 2024, 02:23 PMI've finally dropped the propane tank for a inspection and reconditioning. I can hardly believe it's size, 80 gallon capacity. 6 1/2' long and 20 inches in circumference. Absolutely incredible.
#18
Project Blogs / Re: Mike's 1973 D22 Complete t...
Last post by RockwoodMike - July 21, 2024, 11:54 PMPic 1..Unanimous decision on my part for color..Gloss black texture!!
Pic 2..When it comes to bolts, you must clear the threads of the powder coat..Wire wheel on the bench grinder does fine..
Pic3..All the parts..Not all..need to fix a couple of them..worn out..
Pic 4..Manifold down and bolts torqued..I will worry about the EGR later
Time for the valve covers
Pic 2..When it comes to bolts, you must clear the threads of the powder coat..Wire wheel on the bench grinder does fine..
Pic3..All the parts..Not all..need to fix a couple of them..worn out..
Pic 4..Manifold down and bolts torqued..I will worry about the EGR later
Time for the valve covers
#19
Project Blogs / Re: Mike's 1973 D22 Complete t...
Last post by RockwoodMike - July 20, 2024, 09:38 PMThe throttle linkage original before the teardown
I will take a bunch of photos on the reinstall
I will take a bunch of photos on the reinstall
#20
Project Blogs / Re: Mike's 1973 D22 Complete t...
Last post by RockwoodMike - July 20, 2024, 09:21 PMJust working on the details like the EGR factory installed block off plate..
There is a problem with the Felpro gasket..
Pic 1 shows all the things needed//Gasket and plate
Pic 2..When you lay down the gasket, it has these big unnecessary holes in comparison to the actual holes for the intake manifold..
Pic 3..Pencil trace of the gasket, shows the ever so slight gap at the top..In other words, it doesn't seal there..Would be a intake leak..
Pic 4..In red are the 2 leaks that this gasket would create..Left side is a intake leak..Right side is a exhaust leak..
Interesting
I am looking for exhaust gasket making material..Make a custom gasket without those large holes..
Glad I caught that..Would have a rough idle
There is a problem with the Felpro gasket..
Pic 1 shows all the things needed//Gasket and plate
Pic 2..When you lay down the gasket, it has these big unnecessary holes in comparison to the actual holes for the intake manifold..
Pic 3..Pencil trace of the gasket, shows the ever so slight gap at the top..In other words, it doesn't seal there..Would be a intake leak..
Pic 4..In red are the 2 leaks that this gasket would create..Left side is a intake leak..Right side is a exhaust leak..
Interesting
I am looking for exhaust gasket making material..Make a custom gasket without those large holes..
Glad I caught that..Would have a rough idle