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#1
Coach / Re: Door Lock / Latch
Last post by Eyez Open - Yesterday at 06:01 PMThey say location is everything. I to once had that issue, I replaced the door, very simple to do. Much less work and cost.
https://www.affordablervparts.com/
Ok try this one..Do a search there they have 3 sizes
https://www.affordablervparts.com/rv-entry-door-white-with-black-trim-with-window.html
https://www.affordablervparts.com/
Ok try this one..Do a search there they have 3 sizes
https://www.affordablervparts.com/rv-entry-door-white-with-black-trim-with-window.html
#2
Coach / Re: Door Lock / Latch
Last post by RANGERRICK - Yesterday at 03:53 PMWhat make lock,Hartwell or Bargman ?Have any pics.
#3
Coach / Re: Converter failing
Last post by RANGERRICK - Yesterday at 03:44 PMWhat make converter do you have now.Do you have any pics.
#4
Dodge - Chrysler Chassis / Re: Can't figure Out Issue
Last post by RANGERRICK - Yesterday at 03:34 PMCheck under the dash and check the ignition switch wiring harness connector and make sure the connector is not melted.
#5
Introduce Yourself / Re: Wiring diagram
Last post by Oz - Yesterday at 10:17 AMUnfortunately, wiring diagrams or any type of technical manuals for the old travel trailers are pretty much non-existent. Winnebago doesn't even have them!
Try Tin Can Tourist group. They have been around a very long time. If anyone has info, it's them.
Try Tin Can Tourist group. They have been around a very long time. If anyone has info, it's them.
#6
Introduce Yourself / Wiring diagram
Last post by John CUSTER - September 21, 2023, 09:06 PMDoes anyone have a wiring diagram for a 69 Winnebago travel trailer? I just bought the camper a week ago and the wiring looks weird and messed up, there is a loose black and white wire coming off the glass fuse block that I don't know where they go? I have to remodel the inside because the carpenter ants made tunnels through the foam insulation because someone decided to put down a piece of lanoleum in the shower without using a barrier first like a shower pan what fools.
#7
Project Blogs / Re: Mike's 1973 D22 Complete t...
Last post by RockwoodMike - September 20, 2023, 04:05 PMQuote from: BigAlsVehicleEmporium on September 20, 2023, 02:06 PMI just whacked it straight again
I tried that..couldn't get any movement out of it using a sledge hammer..the problem I have is mounting it in a vise solid enough so that the blows would actually cause movement..
Just finished talking to a friend that really knows his stuff when it come to fabricating steel.."heat it up with a propane torch..bend it with a long pipe..when it is straight, then quince it with oil..it will re temper the steel to the original hardness"
It is only a shock mount..if it breaks going down the road, it isn't going to strand me..So I will give it a try..
#8
Project Blogs / Re: 1972 Winnebago Brave - Sea...
Last post by BigAlsVehicleEmporium - September 20, 2023, 02:32 PMTo switch between the dual tanks, I wanted a better setup than a manual valve on the floor and no gauge for the rear. I bought a Standard Motor Products FV5 valve, which let's me electrically switch the tanks. It has dual ports so I could use the 3/8" ones for the engine and the 5/16" ones for the generator. I put a Wix fuel filter before each inlet, making for a bundle of filters all in one place. Wix 33002 for the 5/16" and 33003 for the 3/8".
I bought a used Winnebago Aux/Main fuel tank switch and wired it to the FV5 using a pair of relays. The Winnebago switch is just an on/off switch but the FV5 needs to have switched polarity on its two feed wires. The relays let me do that. When I get a chance, I'll post a wiring diagram.
The two fuel tank sending unit wires connect to the FV5 and then a single wire goes back to the gauge. That way, the dash gauge shows the level in whichever tank I'm currently switched to.
I added some fuel to the rear tank and switching between them worked great!
I bought a used Winnebago Aux/Main fuel tank switch and wired it to the FV5 using a pair of relays. The Winnebago switch is just an on/off switch but the FV5 needs to have switched polarity on its two feed wires. The relays let me do that. When I get a chance, I'll post a wiring diagram.
The two fuel tank sending unit wires connect to the FV5 and then a single wire goes back to the gauge. That way, the dash gauge shows the level in whichever tank I'm currently switched to.
I added some fuel to the rear tank and switching between them worked great!
#9
Project Blogs / Re: 1972 Winnebago Brave - Sea...
Last post by BigAlsVehicleEmporium - September 20, 2023, 02:26 PMI'm not sure if it's a factory tank or something that someone added later on, but the rear tank in Winnie was rough. The bottom was rusted out, it was connected to a valve under the drivers floor with about 20' of fuel hose, and there was no provision for a fuel sending unit. I'm guessing you just drove until it started sputtering and then reached down and turned the knob on the floor.
Bringing this tank back to life, along with a few upgrades meant welding on a new bottom, and welding in mounts for a fuel sending unit and pickup tubes.
First I had the tank professionally cleaned to make it safe to cut and weld on. Then we cut the bottom off and ground out all the loose rust inside.
I got all the supplies from Tanks Inc and a coworker helped me weld in the mounts and the new bottom plate. It was my first time TIG welding, but when I took it to the shop to be sealed, they said there were no pinhole leaks!
I used a roll over vent from a '70s Ford and drilled a hole for it in the top. I used a 3/8" pickup for the engine and a shorter 5/16" pickup for the generator. Unfortunately, I didn't take many pictures of this install, but it is similar to how the front tank is laid out.
Then Sara and I mounted it back into place with a floor jack and lots of verbal coaxing. I found that there was nothing in the rear that the tank pressed against, so it could just flop up and down in place. I built some wood/rubber shim blocks and put them between the tank and floor. Now I was able to tighten up all the mounting bolts and the tank felt snug!
Bringing this tank back to life, along with a few upgrades meant welding on a new bottom, and welding in mounts for a fuel sending unit and pickup tubes.
First I had the tank professionally cleaned to make it safe to cut and weld on. Then we cut the bottom off and ground out all the loose rust inside.
I got all the supplies from Tanks Inc and a coworker helped me weld in the mounts and the new bottom plate. It was my first time TIG welding, but when I took it to the shop to be sealed, they said there were no pinhole leaks!
I used a roll over vent from a '70s Ford and drilled a hole for it in the top. I used a 3/8" pickup for the engine and a shorter 5/16" pickup for the generator. Unfortunately, I didn't take many pictures of this install, but it is similar to how the front tank is laid out.
Then Sara and I mounted it back into place with a floor jack and lots of verbal coaxing. I found that there was nothing in the rear that the tank pressed against, so it could just flop up and down in place. I built some wood/rubber shim blocks and put them between the tank and floor. Now I was able to tighten up all the mounting bolts and the tank felt snug!
#10
Project Blogs / Re: Mike's 1973 D22 Complete t...
Last post by BigAlsVehicleEmporium - September 20, 2023, 02:06 PMQuote from: RockwoodMike on September 20, 2023, 12:26 AMPic 18..Gotta fix this bent shaft that mounts the shock absorber..Maybe I will just cut it off and use a grade 8 bolt to replace it..
One of my shock mount rods was bent too, but not nearly that bad! I just whacked it straight again and put a new shock on! I agree though, yours will probably have to be replaced.