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Coach / Re: Do i have a hot water bypass?
« Last post by JonnyG on Today at 07:56 PM »
Thats a good way to describe it, that is the sound i heard for sure. glad i asked about it now

I am in central Alberta so same deep freezing concerns over here as well, used about the same amount and seemed like cheap insurance as well.

To answer my question though yes i do have one and it was located below my stove, didnt realize there was also stuff on the back of hot water tank. popped the bottom of the cabinet out and there it was, was able to complete the winterization without putting any antifreeze in the hot water tank. some "smart guy" removed my water tank drain and plugged it on the tank but not the hold in the floor leaving the perfect little hole for a mouse to get in! fixed that up real quick, some people sure dont more task for the spring

Coach / Re: Do i have a hot water bypass?
« Last post by Oz on Today at 06:28 PM »
Like blowing out with your mouth closed and your tongue sticking through your lips.

Since you said it, I just had to do that, you know....    :D
Coach / Re: Hot water bypass stopped working
« Last post by Oz on Today at 06:25 PM »
Ball valves normally work very well for a long time.  However, a particle of foreign matter can interfere with its operation. It may be only that. 

Chevy - GMC Chassis / Re: Weak power steering
« Last post by Oz on Today at 06:13 PM »
I guess you should buy controlling stock in a grease company!
Coach / Re: 12V Fridge Electrical Issues
« Last post by Mlw on Today at 02:01 PM »
and the fridge is getting power through the converter

This is your problem. You do not have a original Motorhome fridge.

Original Motorhome fridges come with three power supplies. 220 volt, 12 volt (only keeping the fridge on temperature when the alternator runs) and LG (gas). When on shore power the AC, fridge, microwave and other high power appliances get (like ibdilbert01 also says) their power directly from shore power and NEVER thru the power converter. This is clearly stated in all owner manuals I've read over the motorhomes I've seen the last year, (European or American) but also experiencing at work for a sailing yacht broker for 5 years.

The old converters just aren't made for today's power consumption. They are feeding power directly to the appliances and the rest of the power left is used to charge your auxiliary battery. This probably is also the reason why the Chassis battery isn't charged by shore power via these old converters. They are just not powerfull enough. It also just wasn't really necessary as the only accessory used in the '70s without the motor running was the radio which probably didn't exceed 6 watts power consumption. (How the hell it was possible to stay alive in the '70s keeps blowing my mind  :D)

For dummies: your fridge compares to a V12, your led lights to a V2. When they get the energy from the same supply fed by just one line. which one is going to consume the most energy and probably leave the other one out when law of physics kicks in???

You have two options,
- A high power modern converter (High priced option running in the thousands)
- Make a separate power supply for your fridge, (and other high power appliances who just aren't made to be fed by a 12 volt battery)

As everything seem to run fine as long as the fridge doesn't kick in i would go for the second option as this would be way cheaper, but when you think your powerconsumption will get higher in the near future there just isn't escaping the first option.
Explanation Power Converter:
Chevy - GMC Chassis / Re: Weak power steering
« Last post by eXodus on Today at 01:52 PM »
the amount of parts and linkages on the P30 steering is just mind boggling.
I don't remember but there a like 18 zerks to grease? 
Every of those joints has some drag and also some inaccuracy and play.

You know how many joints the steering of my RAM pickup has?  2 on each side - inner and outer tie-rod end.  4 Total.
Rack and Pinion is just a so much simpler and better system. But wasn't available when the P30 was designed in the 60s.

Well, if you have the wheels allready, just try and fit.

your only worry is if the inner ring between the lugnuts is big enough (or not to big) so your tyre sits straight. It only should fit snugly and not move around. if you want to be absolutely sure use a caliper to measure the inner ring. If they are the same you're good. Normally smaller rims means smaller tyres so I don't see any problems there in fitting unless the wheels are wider.


Keep in mind: the smaller the tyres, the more revs from the engine you need to turn them around. The more rubber you need to fix that, the spongier the drive gets. As America is a country of (very) long distances every rev more then necessary really can get to your nerves.

Coach / Hot water bypass stopped working
« Last post by skloon on Today at 12:10 PM »
So went to winterize on the weekend and turned the valve on my 92 Sunflyer- it was still letting water into the tank so I pulled the valve and it did shut off- there is such a spaghetti pile of plumbing I cannot figure it out- can these valves go bad ? it is a ball type one
Looking at a donor/parts M300. I currently have nice tires/wheels that are 16" single piece on a 72 M300. Will these fit on a 73 M300 chassis that came with 17.5" wheels? thanks much
Chevy - GMC Chassis / Re: Weak power steering
« Last post by JonnyG on Yesterday at 11:55 PM »
Lubing up the front end actually helped a bit! I clearly need to rethink what i thought i knew, all the "wet spots" dont mean anything more than thats an area that was once greased. what a mess to clean up but worthwhile, who wouida thought?

Nothing happens for either test, good tip on the longer hose. the 12" one that comes with it really isnt useful for half of the zerks is it, 24" really would have been ideal. I was comparing this to a fairly modern F150 electric power steering, hardly comparable when you think about it. I really need to manage my expectations here I guess
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