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#51
Project Blogs / Re: Mike's 1973 D22 Complete t...
Last post by RockwoodMike - April 11, 2024, 10:53 PM
I worked on the roof today..The front "eyebrow" area..

Making a tapered roof to transition to a flat panel eyebrow piece..

3 trial and errors..successful on the 4th..

Pic 1..The eyebrow is made in 4 section..just working on the top first section..I tried to bend plywood to flex to the contour I needed..And the plywood wasn't having anything to do with it..
So first piece is just a flat plywood, spanning the full width of the motorhome..The bottom matches the inside of the roof rafters that are tapered on the top edge of the rafters..

Pic 2 ..I made these individual triangles..11 of them..Thick in the middle tapering to thinner out towards the edge..The back edge of the pieces are lower than the finish plywood already installed..I believe the plywood is 3/8 thick that was done about 3 years ago..Yea I have been on this for a while!!

Pic 3..Using 5 mil plywood as a topper for these triangles  ..to flex and shape from a taper to a flat transition..Ply wood this thin lays down nice and conforms to shape!!..Found the 5 mil plywood at Lowe's

Pic 4..With a sanding disc on my grinder, just tapering the edge to match the 3/4 ply at the final edge..

I hope you can see how this works..I was thinking of filling in the triangle pieces with foam sanded down to shape to have a solid base to support the 5 mil plywood better.. 
#52
Coach / Re: Photos of Roof Repair & Re...
Last post by 78chief - April 11, 2024, 06:52 PM
Quote from: RockwoodMike on April 11, 2024, 05:52 PMWell..I have been working on this all day and I am having one  $@!#@! of a time..I kinda wish I had not put so much taper to it..Going from a taper to flat with plywood is not going easy..

I am going to cut grooves on the back side of the plywood to make it flexible to create the transition..

Think this through..I think I have made a mess..maybe you shouldn't be listening to all this..I may have screwed up in a big way :-[ 

Sorry to hear your having trouble. I would think you would need to have the flat, but round out from there.  the sharp corner transition from the flat to the taper is probably the issue.
#53
Coach / Re: Photos of Roof Repair & Re...
Last post by RockwoodMike - April 11, 2024, 05:52 PM
Well..I have been working on this all day and I am having one  $@!#@! of a time..I kinda wish I had not put so much taper to it..Going from a taper to flat with plywood is not going easy..

I am going to cut grooves on the back side of the plywood to make it flexible to create the transition..

Think this through..I think I have made a mess..maybe you shouldn't be listening to all this..I may have screwed up in a big way :-[ 
#54
Coach / Re: Photos of Roof Repair & Re...
Last post by 78chief - April 11, 2024, 02:03 PM
Not a bad idea but I'm going to hopefully just do it once and for all and I think a taper is a better option. No issues with roof ac I no longer have one I have a mini split with the out door unit installed in the origional on board genorator location and the cooling unit above the bathroom.
#55
Coach / Re: Photos of Roof Repair & Re...
Last post by RockwoodMike - April 11, 2024, 12:08 PM
Maybe I am making a mistake telling you all about this taper roof scheme..

What if you rip the original roof off that has sagged ..instead of using tapered wood...you use 1.25 square steel tubing for the rafters..

Maybe doubled up at the air conditioner..You would have a flat roof again but very much sag resistant..

Top the 1.25 tubing with 1/4 ply and you would have a strong flat roof to match the front.

I am ripping everything..You are trying to preserve the interior..That might be a better way to go(going flat again but stronger)
#56
Coach / Re: Photos of Roof Repair & Re...
Last post by 78chief - April 11, 2024, 11:47 AM
Quote from: RockwoodMike on April 11, 2024, 10:51 AMI used 2x3 Kiln dried wood because all the 2x4 wood was not kiln dried..heavy with water..Besides, you are looking for a small taper in the roof to create runoff..

So my 2x3 has a total height of 2.5 inches in the middle and taper to 1.25 at the edges..Add 1/4 inch exterior grade plywood on top of that and you have 1.5 total thickness at the edge..

That 1.5 thickness is the same as the original roof..That can match the wall to reattach (staples, screws) the wall to the roof..

Now here is the problem with all this and I am dealing with it right now..

That taper that you are creating has to go flat again at the very front of the motorhome..The front "eyebrow" look at leading edge of the roof is flat..

How to go from a taper to a flat area is going to be something I will tackle soon..(Next week)

If you are saying the interior is in good shape, I would carefully peel the aluminum off..little pieces at a time..Then carefully remove the flat foam..little pieces at a time..

Thus leaving the 1/8th plywood that is the interior ceiling..

Create your roof rafters..stuff insulation between the rafters..top with 1/4 ply..and then roll on a rubber or other type of glue on roll roofing that you see all new and white..

I placed my rafters 16 on center..1/4 exterior ply..All glued and screwed..

I will stay tuned let me know hat you do in the front.
#57
Coach / Re: Photos of Roof Repair & Re...
Last post by RockwoodMike - April 11, 2024, 10:51 AM
I used 2x3 Kiln dried wood because all the 2x4 wood was not kiln dried..heavy with water..Besides, you are looking for a small taper in the roof to create runoff..

So my 2x3 has a total height of 2.5 inches in the middle and taper to 1.25 at the edges..Add 1/4 inch exterior grade plywood on top of that and you have 1.5 total thickness at the edge..

That 1.5 thickness is the same as the original roof..That can match the wall to reattach (staples, screws) the wall to the roof..

Now here is the problem with all this and I am dealing with it right now..

That taper that you are creating has to go flat again at the very front of the motorhome..The front "eyebrow" look at leading edge of the roof is flat..

How to go from a taper to a flat area is going to be something I will tackle soon..(Next week)

If you are saying the interior is in good shape, I would carefully peel the aluminum off..little pieces at a time..Then carefully remove the flat foam..little pieces at a time..

Thus leaving the 1/8th plywood that is the interior ceiling..

Create your roof rafters..stuff insulation between the rafters..top with 1/4 ply..and then roll on a rubber or other type of glue on roll roofing that you see all new and white..

I placed my rafters 16 on center..1/4 exterior ply..All glued and screwed..
#58
Coach / Re: Photos of Roof Repair & Re...
Last post by 78chief - April 11, 2024, 06:46 AM
Quote from: RockwoodMike on April 10, 2024, 11:46 PMMy motorhome was a total disaster..Leaks..rot..mold..everything..The roof had caved in, thus wrecking the cabinets..everything..

I gutted the interior..That is when I discovered that there is no solid frame work to this..

thin paneling for the interior..foam..then an aluminum skin..all held together with glue..

Picture shows my first attempt..after ripping the roof off, I glued these 1x4s to the top edge of the wall..then built the roof as shown..

Then I moved to the walls..right at the point where the wall attaches to the floor is a 2x4..screwed into the floor..mine was totally rotted..It was just rotted dust..

the walls had no frame work..just foam..So right now the roof is being held up with stilts ..And I am making stud(2x2) walls to replace the foam only walls..

I took the original roof of in 3 foot section..just cut it with a skill(circular) saw..At the top edge of the wall, the roof wraps over the wall edge and has 10 billion staples that must be removed..

Some of the cabinets were screwed into the ceiling..But that wasn't a problem for me because the cabinets and everything else were removed..

So I just cut the roof in sections and threw them off to the side..

So after building the roof, then I discovered the walls were just foam and rot..

I'm dealing with basically the opposite the interior in mine is in great shape visually at least the previous owner re did it. But the roof has a few small sags that collect water when it rains and I dont want it to get worse so I'm re doing the roof and trying to keep the inside in the best shape I can. The previous owner did a pretty decent job on the inside but for the exterior roof he just slathered many many gallons of epdm rubber rood coating on it and called it good but I know it won't last like this and want to fix it before it becomes worse. Thanks for the reply you have quite a project going there good on you for saving one from the scrap yard. Just curious I see others used 2x4 and I think you had said you used 2x3 why did you just prefer less height? Also what thickness ply wood are you using for the roof and what truss spacing? Hows it feel walking on it ext... pretty solid?   Thanks for the info mike
#59
Coach / Re: Photos of Roof Repair & Re...
Last post by RockwoodMike - April 10, 2024, 11:54 PM
Here is an example of the interior rot I was dealing with..Interior front right corner at the dash..That was solid plywood that was just rotted dust..

That is why I have ripped down all the wall to create everything new
#60
Coach / Re: Photos of Roof Repair & Re...
Last post by RockwoodMike - April 10, 2024, 11:46 PM
My motorhome was a total disaster..Leaks..rot..mold..everything..The roof had caved in, thus wrecking the cabinets..everything..

I gutted the interior..That is when I discovered that there is no solid frame work to this..

thin paneling for the interior..foam..then an aluminum skin..all held together with glue..

Picture shows my first attempt..after ripping the roof off, I glued these 1x4s to the top edge of the wall..then built the roof as shown..

Then I moved to the walls..right at the point where the wall attaches to the floor is a 2x4..screwed into the floor..mine was totally rotted..It was just rotted dust..

the walls had no frame work..just foam..So right now the roof is being held up with stilts ..And I am making stud(2x2) walls to replace the foam only walls..

I took the original roof of in 3 foot section..just cut it with a skill(circular) saw..At the top edge of the wall, the roof wraps over the wall edge and has 10 billion staples that must be removed..

Some of the cabinets were screwed into the ceiling..But that wasn't a problem for me because the cabinets and everything else were removed..

So I just cut the roof in sections and threw them off to the side..

So after building the roof, then I discovered the walls were just foam and rot..