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#31
Project Blogs / Re: Mike's 1973 D22 Complete t...
Last post by Eyez Open - July 16, 2024, 01:05 PMAmazing to think a 40 yr old dizzy can be rebuilt. One would think the slop would be beyond rebuilding.
#32
Coach / 1980 Itasca Spectrum DC Recent...
Last post by hankey01 - July 16, 2024, 11:19 AMHi everyone,
I'm experiencing some electrical issues with my 1980 Itasca Spectrum motorhome and would really appreciate some advice.
Problem Description:
Everything worked fine on AC power during our recent camping trip, including the water pump and fridge.
The fridge seemed to work fine on DC power while driving to the campsite.
However, on the way back, after switching the fridge from AC to DC, the water pump and interior lights stopped working.
When I got home and plugged the motorhome back into AC, the lights and water pump worked again.
I checked the fuses in the living area and they seem fine.
The coach battery has been dead for over a year, but everything was functioning (presumably off the engine battery) until I disconnected the AC power.
Additional Context:
Under the hood, there are two batteries: one for the engine and one for the living area. The living area battery is completely dead.
Given the context of my current situation (going through a divorce and financial constraints with kids almost reaching adulthood), I'm hoping to find a cheap and easy fix as I can't invest a lot of money into it right now.
Any suggestions on what might be causing the issue and how to resolve it would be greatly appreciated.
Thank you in advance for your help!
I'm experiencing some electrical issues with my 1980 Itasca Spectrum motorhome and would really appreciate some advice.
Problem Description:
Everything worked fine on AC power during our recent camping trip, including the water pump and fridge.
The fridge seemed to work fine on DC power while driving to the campsite.
However, on the way back, after switching the fridge from AC to DC, the water pump and interior lights stopped working.
When I got home and plugged the motorhome back into AC, the lights and water pump worked again.
I checked the fuses in the living area and they seem fine.
The coach battery has been dead for over a year, but everything was functioning (presumably off the engine battery) until I disconnected the AC power.
Additional Context:
Under the hood, there are two batteries: one for the engine and one for the living area. The living area battery is completely dead.
Given the context of my current situation (going through a divorce and financial constraints with kids almost reaching adulthood), I'm hoping to find a cheap and easy fix as I can't invest a lot of money into it right now.
Any suggestions on what might be causing the issue and how to resolve it would be greatly appreciated.
Thank you in advance for your help!
#33
Project Blogs / Re: Mike's 1973 D22 Complete t...
Last post by RockwoodMike - July 14, 2024, 11:24 PMhttps://forum.e-bodies.org/engine-transmission-and-rear-end/4/help-distributor-thrust-bushingcollar-need-one/9552/
https://www.mcmaster.com/products/shaft-collars/shaft-collars-2~/set-screw-shaft-collars-8/shaft-diameter~1-2-2/material~stainless-steel-2/
Seem that other Mopar owners are finding it difficult to locate..
McMaster Carr has something that might work..with a set screw secured with Locktight
https://www.mcmaster.com/products/shaft-collars/shaft-collars-2~/set-screw-shaft-collars-8/shaft-diameter~1-2-2/material~stainless-steel-2/
Seem that other Mopar owners are finding it difficult to locate..
McMaster Carr has something that might work..with a set screw secured with Locktight
#34
Project Blogs / Re: Mike's 1973 D22 Complete t...
Last post by RockwoodMike - July 14, 2024, 10:59 PMPic 1..There is a thrust washer inside the housing
Pic 2..The weights and the springs for them..I think this is all stock setup
Pic 3..All cleaned up with the soda blaster..
Pic 4..I SCREWED up!!
I broke the plastic sleeve trying to get the roll pin back in..Didn't have the hole lined up and it cracked it..Dang!!
Looking at the parts book, it is 2932988 for the Dodge number..Can't find it anywhere..Looking everywhere..
Pic 2..The weights and the springs for them..I think this is all stock setup
Pic 3..All cleaned up with the soda blaster..
Pic 4..I SCREWED up!!
I broke the plastic sleeve trying to get the roll pin back in..Didn't have the hole lined up and it cracked it..Dang!!Looking at the parts book, it is 2932988 for the Dodge number..Can't find it anywhere..Looking everywhere..
#35
Project Blogs / Re: Mike's 1973 D22 Complete t...
Last post by RockwoodMike - July 14, 2024, 10:54 PMPic 1..The advance plate comes out with 2 screws removed..
Pic 2...Using a roll pin punch 1/8th size to remove the bottom pieces..That bottom plastic is very brittle..
Pic 3..Fully removed..
Pic 4..Shaft is removed..
Pic 2...Using a roll pin punch 1/8th size to remove the bottom pieces..That bottom plastic is very brittle..
Pic 3..Fully removed..
Pic 4..Shaft is removed..
#36
Project Blogs / Re: Mike's 1973 D22 Complete t...
Last post by RockwoodMike - July 14, 2024, 10:49 PMTearing it apart..One piece at a time
#37
Project Blogs / Re: Mike's 1973 D22 Complete t...
Last post by RockwoodMike - July 14, 2024, 10:47 PMTime to look at the Distributor..
Pic 1..Dirty and filthy as usual
Pic 2..Inside with the magnetic pickup
Pic 3..Vacuum advance holds vacuum..Starts to move at 7-8 pounds
Pic 4..Full on at 12.5 pounds..
Ported vacuum or Manifold vacuum??
Pic 1..Dirty and filthy as usual
Pic 2..Inside with the magnetic pickup
Pic 3..Vacuum advance holds vacuum..Starts to move at 7-8 pounds
Pic 4..Full on at 12.5 pounds..
Ported vacuum or Manifold vacuum??
#38
Chevy - GMC Chassis / Re: 1986 454 Headers
Last post by RockwoodMike - July 14, 2024, 10:21 PMAlright, Alright, Alright 
Looking at the collector, looks like there is no ground issues..Looks nice and tight up there..
I was wondering about the rest of the exhaust going back from the collector..Are you making your own muffler pipe??..Looks like you have a start on it already..
Well that wins round 1..What will round 2 hold for us all to see??
When you get your new suspension parts, I think some Rustolium paint will be in order..A nice satin black like your top coat on the frame..
I think the paint that comes on the parts is just a quick coat to prevent rust in storage and transportation..And it would not last long under the severe conditions of the road salts and rocks,etc..
Doing great!!
Looking at the collector, looks like there is no ground issues..Looks nice and tight up there..
I was wondering about the rest of the exhaust going back from the collector..Are you making your own muffler pipe??..Looks like you have a start on it already..
Well that wins round 1..What will round 2 hold for us all to see??
When you get your new suspension parts, I think some Rustolium paint will be in order..A nice satin black like your top coat on the frame..
I think the paint that comes on the parts is just a quick coat to prevent rust in storage and transportation..And it would not last long under the severe conditions of the road salts and rocks,etc..
Doing great!!
#39
Chevy - GMC Chassis / Re: 1986 454 Headers
Last post by zMadMechanic - July 14, 2024, 07:09 PMFinally getting back on subject... finished installing the drivers side header today! Only very minor fitment issue with the heat shield for the engine mount... easily solved by a small hammer 
I used the included gasket and hardware which came with the Flowtech set. I added anti seize to the bolt threads after using a thread chaser on the block and cleaning out the holes with compressed air.
I also used spray-on, high-temp copper gasket sealant on the included gasket because I've always had good luck with Peramtex. All torqued down to 25 pounds, starting from the middle and working my way out like a tire, in multiple (many) sequences.
I'm pretty stoked with how it came out:
I love Por-15, but I did have a poor (lol) experience on shiny bare metal on the fuel tank. I learned it REALLY needs some rust, or a very rough clean metal surface. It doesn't have anything to penetrate on bright bare metal and basically just peels up with any chipping of the paint or flexing of the metal whatsoever. It also needs high humidity (60+%), but not too humdid (90+%)... I digress.
I decided to use Por-15's metal cleaner and acid etch (two separate products) in sequence, as directed, just to be sure on the frame rails. If it was all uniformly rusted, I wouldn't have bothered beyond thoroughly cleaning with 90% iso alcohol and compressed air. My frame had clean, bright spots after thoroughly wirebrushing... so I felt like my hands were tied. I want it to be one and done! Three coats + a top layer of rustoleum spray paint for good measure lol.
And yes, it sucks to get on your skin... ha!
I used the included gasket and hardware which came with the Flowtech set. I added anti seize to the bolt threads after using a thread chaser on the block and cleaning out the holes with compressed air.
I also used spray-on, high-temp copper gasket sealant on the included gasket because I've always had good luck with Peramtex. All torqued down to 25 pounds, starting from the middle and working my way out like a tire, in multiple (many) sequences.
I'm pretty stoked with how it came out:
Quote from: RockwoodMike on July 08, 2024, 05:19 PMWith POR 15, that frame is DONE!!
I would be inclined when you get your new parts, to lay a coat on them too..
I just hope that isn't POR on your skin in the last photo..Because if it is, it will be there for a while!!
The second picture shows that you acid etched the steel...With what??
I was wondering if the etch was necessary ??The steel in the first pic was super clean..That would have been the POR 15 starting application time for me
I love Por-15, but I did have a poor (lol) experience on shiny bare metal on the fuel tank. I learned it REALLY needs some rust, or a very rough clean metal surface. It doesn't have anything to penetrate on bright bare metal and basically just peels up with any chipping of the paint or flexing of the metal whatsoever. It also needs high humidity (60+%), but not too humdid (90+%)... I digress.
I decided to use Por-15's metal cleaner and acid etch (two separate products) in sequence, as directed, just to be sure on the frame rails. If it was all uniformly rusted, I wouldn't have bothered beyond thoroughly cleaning with 90% iso alcohol and compressed air. My frame had clean, bright spots after thoroughly wirebrushing... so I felt like my hands were tied. I want it to be one and done! Three coats + a top layer of rustoleum spray paint for good measure lol.
And yes, it sucks to get on your skin... ha!
#40
Manuals & Diagrams / Re: 1984 Winnebago Dash fuse b...
Last post by RockwoodMike - July 12, 2024, 10:35 PMDid you find a blown fuse??
If you did, you need to find the reason..Short in the harness? Overload??
If you did, you need to find the reason..Short in the harness? Overload??