Hello all! Last year my wife and I sold our "glamper", a travel trailer with all the amenities, and picked up a 1971 Travco 270. Going back old school. We bought it, and within a week threw it into storage due to an upcoming winter storm.
With the net proceeds of the sale/buy, we plan on upgrading a lot of things to make the start/stop/go issues non-issues. Steering, suspension, probably axle swaps to allow for easier brake servicing, a hyrdoboost from hydrovac conversion, and maybe an EFI carb. The bottom end of the engine was rebuilt 6 years ago, and the tranny then too.
My wife is convinced I've lost my mind ... and she may be right, but with forums/resources like this one it should be easier (to fix, not to lose my mind).
Since this forum is a informational exchange of how to and concepts I Wil openly state I really missed the ball on one aspect of the galley. I always mock things up to get a ideal of how it's going together and how it looks. I was so focused on just getting done I missed something that could have been stunning in my opinion.
Below is a pic of no window cutout and the countertop backsplash is covered by the wall trim/backsplash. Had I just played attention and opened my mind to a skylight approach in lieu of a small window ..that would turned out quite nice.. Perhaps another day, the adventure continues.
Man I feel you on the wire tracing mess ! So what IS that 3 pin molex connector for I have the same thing and it's not hooked to anything and all my systems work. Our chassis are identical and I have the same power strip sitting above the isolator, the outboard isolator terminal should power that strip which handles house items and the last isolator terminal should power a small segment with an auto reset circuit break that is divorced from the house strip - that I assume is protecting the chassis side ( not house) of things. I made it my mission to perform genocide on any and every fusible link and replace with manual reset able aircraft circuit breakers and or fusing when doing the 8.1 swap.
You are correct about that contactor being used to solve the starter heat soak issue, You played with boats also so you probable have seen the same thing on Mercruiser I/O motors with the contactor on top of the motor.
Now I have to go and see if my molex plug is still hot as I am installing a new heater and am going to need power there!
Last post by Eyez Open - February 25, 2023, 05:22 PM
Well now I've had a bit of wild luck one might say....Well kinda if you add to the fact I found the power problem only due to the fact I had to fix/remove a leaky pipe fitting...along with the flooring it had ruined. This leak must have gone on for years not noticed.
The main power wire shorted/broke in the Molex wiring feeding the kitchen wall. So now it's just a small matter of patching in a new connection. T he adventure continues.
Last post by Eyez Open - February 25, 2023, 03:30 PM
I pretty much considered all options prior treatments. I have used oxcylaic acid on countless boat trailers,to this date not one has suffered recurring rust. Aside from that, it is quite cheap. The acid literally dissolves rust down to the base metal and one of the reasons for the dawn soap bath...I was literally rinsing the old rust away. I should have taken pictures of the aftermath of the bathing.
I will be using Ospho for the propane tank however, it is over 6' long and hanging, I do not have the time to mess around with that project.
Last post by alexsmith - February 25, 2023, 12:56 PM
Yes, it can work without the battery but if you get a 14v solar panel of 3 or 4 amps then it can work during the day without a battery. but if it is below the 202-watt solar panel or higher than 14 volts your fan will work for some time after that that can get burned cuz of the excessive RPM of the motor. Plus you can use flexible solar panels which will be a good alternative to get maximum productivity.