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Topics for all Chassis / Re: Power distribution time 83 holiday rambler
« Last post by Eyez Open on August 07, 2022, 09:52 PM »
Well ive succeeded in only establishing a ground, any type of load put on the house battery system and it goes dark. I was able to trace down a junction that i have wanted to cut off long ago. It seems to be a the source of my issue's...and its days are numbered. On the bright side i was able to find wiring diagram of sorts, it is a place to start a detour around a expensive bandage. Below have a read, quite interesting to a point..soley due to late timing of a engine.

Aside from that you were spot on with that wire splice, it once was wired to the power strip and someone cut it and spliced into that im sure they thought they were brilliant at the time. For now ive just ran a power line to the fuse box for the igniter on the hot water heater...I am quite sure after a few long hot showers and time to mull over just what i need to do things will be fine.

That whole circut was setup to deal with hot starts, due soley late timing. I am beginning to believe almost 30% of a cylinders charge burned up in the exhaust manifolds..ever wonder how much heat that might incredible.

Dodge - Chrysler Chassis / Re: 72 Brave Front Axle Swap/Disc Conversion
« Last post by Oz on August 07, 2022, 09:39 PM »
Nice work!
Introduce Yourself / Re: Hello! Revcon owner checking in
« Last post by Eyez Open on August 07, 2022, 07:40 PM »
Really a unique RV, it should quite a adventure bringing it back to its full glory...LMAO just a little makeup here and there..a few nip&tucks..etc etc etc.
Chevy - GMC Chassis / Re: AC condenser/Oil cooler leak
« Last post by udidwht on August 07, 2022, 06:52 PM »
Found this site:

Any recommendations as to what cooler I should use? Looking for one that can install rather easily and doesn't take much space. Should a fan be used?

As luck would have it I just changed the oil not ~500 miles ago. Can the new cooler be installed without dropping the oil?
Dodge - Chrysler Chassis / Re: 72 Brave Front Axle Swap/Disc Conversion
« Last post by Bonebag on August 07, 2022, 06:01 PM »
Getting there...slowly but surely. Also working on every other aspect of the beast to get her goin'! Working up the new brake lines/and all that stuff. Thanks to Dave for lining me up with the people over at Master Power Brakes that supplied me with a new Brake Combination Valve as the old one from the 73 disk brake donor was pitted pretty badly. Part Number PL3360K. Brake hoses have been kind of a snafu with ordering and receiving different hoses that are either too short or too long or have pins on them that don't line up with the calipers. I'll post the part numbers as soon as I get it together and have a fit for sure. Another snag was the grease zerk on the front axles interfere with the new disk hubs. On the 73 the zerks were on the rearward side of the axles. No biggie, I'll put some plugs in them after greasing.
It's strange how sometimes post do not show or you miss them.

I hope you figured it out by now. I've bought a new fuelpump myself but since the old one seems to work fine since I let the engine running a few times I getting skittish to place the new pump reading all the problems after replacing the fuelpump.

Now if you didn't figure it out, maybe this is helping. Now the engine in the video is a Chevy 454 and not a Dodge, but maybe Dodge has the same deal.

Rod window.l
Introduce Yourself / Re: Hello! Revcon owner checking in
« Last post by Mlw on August 07, 2022, 03:20 PM »
What a flagship  :)ThmbUp.

But do I see a whole lot of delamination in picture 4?
Chevy - GMC Chassis / Re: AC condenser/Oil cooler leak
« Last post by udidwht on August 07, 2022, 11:55 AM »
Found another pic and it indeed does look like the one in the following link...

Mine: (lower left of pic) see the oil lines going around?

Found a guy on Ebay who has (or will soon) new ones (3):

Emailed him and sent pics of mine his reply was...

Standard condenser for Workhorse chassis, 2000-5/2004 production date.
Drier fitting is 18 mm female, discharge fitting 20 mm male o-ring, oil cooler standard workhorse block fitting.

In 1999 Workhorse took over the building of GM & GMC chassis.
This is the correct condenser.
unfortunately, it will not ship until Aug 16th.



Chevy - GMC Chassis / 88 Winnebago electrical problem turn signal / hazard
« Last post by woodman on August 07, 2022, 10:33 AM »
I have no t/s or hazard or brake lights. They will blink 3or 4 times then blow the fuse.  The right front does not blink. Is there something in common with the t/s hazard and brake lights? Need help, thanks in advance for any info. Chevy p40 chassis.
Dodge - Chrysler Chassis / Hard brake pedal but not immediately
« Last post by cbowles on August 07, 2022, 09:33 AM »
Having rebuilt the brake system on a 1975 Landau, Dodge M500 a couple years ago I thought the next one would be easier but its got me baffled.
I am fixing another old motorhome because I just can't help myself. This one is a Travco 270 on a 1974 Dodge M500 chassis (motorhome year is 1975). It has the exact same system as the Landau, dual Hydrovacs, front disc, rear drum. The symptom is this:
I have perfectly normal brake operation for the first 1 minute or so of braking. Then the pedal gets hard and brake action diminishes greatly, just like a poor vacuum condition or non functioning booster.

Here is what I have done:

Replaced master cylinder with the a new NAPA part number 4959

Replaced both front calipers and soft lines and installed new pads.The rotors are not grooved, look good.

Replaced both Hydrovac boosters with overhauled items (Cardone) from NAPA, part number 51-8055. Identical to the ones I purchased from Alretta for the Landau. One of the boosters I had purchased from Alretta developed a punctured diaphragm just after the 1 year warranty expired so I wanted to try a different supplier hoping for better longevity.

Replaced vac hard and soft lines, with proper vac line not fuel hose

The brake light comes on as it should, during start only.

All 4 wheels stop when up in the air and brake is apllied

The rear brakes look good with almost new shoes and the wheel cylinders free.

I installed an electric vacuum pump and an T inline, plugged the manifold vac connection for troubleshooting purposes. Check valve is good. The electric pump makes 20 inches of vacuum and it stays between 18 and 20 for a long time after pump shuts off so no apparent leaks. When I apply the brake while parked with the vac pump on I can see the vac drop is minimal at first, it takes many pumps to show the vacuum going down. While driving it is the same, good vacuum around 18 to 20 inches regardless of how much or how long brake is applied.

When I apply the brake pedal while parked and the vac pump off I get the usual hard pedal, short travel and as I switch on the vac pump the pedal drops drown a little(not much). A wooshing sound and a clicking sound can be heard (the pistons in the hydrovac?) when applying brakes

I studied Dave's brake information again (thanks Dave, tremendous help) but can't figure out what is wrong here. New master, new calipers, new boosters, good vac, no vac leaks, no air in system, normal pedal travel. What could be wrong with this?
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