Mike's 1973 D22 Complete tear out. From the Roof down!

Started by RockwoodMike, September 25, 2019, 11:43 PM

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RockwoodMike

I usually don't go above 1/4 inch steel..Because anything heavier and I can't get it on the table..I don't have any kind of forklift or hoist..so experience of the thick steel is limited..Each type of steel has its settings..speed..voltage..gap distance between the steel and the torch..It is something that need to be set before you cut..I can cut 1/4 steel like scissors cut paper..It is simply awesome!!

RockwoodMike

Quote from: Rickf1985 on October 19, 2019, 11:07 AM
You have a CNC plasma cutter! I hate you!!! In the line of work I do restoring old military vehicles I would love to have one of those. I would say with your dedication to what you are doing and using the skins available through the outfit provided above you could make a new eyebrow. It would probably cost as much as buying a new modern coach but well worth it in the end.
I notice from all the clean and not rusty steel scraps under the plasma table and the fact that both it and the project are pretty much outdoors that you must be in the high desert area where it never rains and humidity is non existent.

I live right in the heart of California..Near Fresno..we get about 10-12 inches of rain and plenty of fog..So humidity is there to worry about..What you are seeing in regards to the scrap under the table is Galvanized..16 gauge cold rolled galvanized..It stays that pretty light gray and never rusts..During the cutting of the steel, you use simple compressed air..with air having 80% nitrogen in it..it nitrates (super hardens) the edge where it is cut..so the edge won't rust either..That is why it looks so new under there..

I knew someone like you would respond the way you did..that is why, the hideous laugh!!  BWA HA Ha!! (cough)..

Go take a good look at that cnczone website..there is a section for home built  plasma machines..Any questions you might have..let me know..I have been running that table since 2009..I can cut 20 gauge all the way up to 5/8..

Rickf1985

You have a CNC plasma cutter! I hate you!!! In the line of work I do restoring old military vehicles I would love to have one of those. I would say with your dedication to what you are doing and using the skins available through the outfit provided above you could make a new eyebrow. It would probably cost as much as buying a new modern coach but well worth it in the end.
I notice from all the clean and not rusty steel scraps under the plasma table and the fact that both it and the project are pretty much outdoors that you must be in the high desert area where it never rains and humidity is non existent.

RockwoodMike

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=msLi_9I_ikU
Here is a goal worth striving for..This thing is just beautiful..
As for a siding replicator..If he did it..who knows what is ahead!!
There is many kit cars for the Shelby Cobra, VW kit cars...I was wondering what all it would take to replicate a old style brow face Winnebago..??

Elandan2

You built your own plasma table, I'm impressed. Now you just have to build a roller to make the siding and you're all set.  :)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?reload=9&v=SWgLTJJ-RGU
Rick and Tracy Ellerbeck

RockwoodMike

Quote from: tmsnyder on October 17, 2019, 08:13 AM
That Kreg system for pocket screws is really handy.

I plan on using this Kreg system through out this restore..New cabinets..fixing these walls..I don't know how else it was done..

RockwoodMike

When I tried to fit the panel up, it wouldn't fit..Couldn't get it to lift into the original seam seal..It was hitting the new plywood on the steel frame..Little bit of trim and it fitted right in..It is in!!! :)clap Fully screwed into place..Solid as a brick!!

RockwoodMike

Here is the new compared to the old..The old is bent because the whole panel dropped to the ground when I first took it out D:oH!

RockwoodMike

I happen to own a CNC Plasma steel cutter..BWAAA HAAA HAAA coff coff coff weeze :)rotflmao Got all the info on how all of these type of machines work from cnczone dot com and decided to build one for myself!!
I needed to make a new skin for the inside of the fender well..Instead of the original aluminum, this is 16 gauge galvanized cold roll steel..Heavier but lots more durable for all that happens in the wheel well..

RockwoodMike

Quote from: LJ-TJ on October 18, 2019, 10:02 AM
Just noticed the gas tank behind the steps. Interesting. You got me hooked. Great job. Following this is better than watching "Dallas" Oooops Not sure you guys would remember the tv show Dallas. Hehehehe

I bet it was YOU that shot J.R...It had to be you..During that summer we all had to wait till the fall season..Vegas was laying down odds and taking bets..Even the cast members of the show didn't know, because they produced 3-4 scenes reveling the culprit and only the producers knew which scene they were going to use..Magazine covers with"Who shot JR" With Larry Hagman grinning on the cover with his cowboy hat..I do remember..And both of us are getting old!!
Yes ..2 gas tanks..The front one is an after market tank..Probable both filled with rotted gas..I haven't checked them yet..

LJ-TJ

Just noticed the gas tank behind the steps. Interesting. You got me hooked. Great job. Following this is better than watching "Dallas" Oooops Not sure you guys would remember the tv show Dallas. Hehehehe

RockwoodMike

I welded back in that sheet metal that I cut out earlier..My mistake that I made earlier..Notice that it is a far away shot..I am a terrible welder especially with sheet steel..But it is back in as that sheet metal has several holes to set screws into the new plywood..This second pic is a fix where the skin had separated from the foam..Reglued..I think tomorrow will be the day the repaired wall panel will go back in :)clap

tmsnyder

That Kreg system for pocket screws is really handy.

RockwoodMike


RockwoodMike

I glued and screwed the frame work together..Pocket hole system really clamps the joint..With glue in between.WOW!!And then test fit it..Then glued it to the bottom of the new and old plywood..And the skin..We will see how it looks tomorrow

RockwoodMike

Quote from: Elandan2 on October 16, 2019, 08:46 AM
Actually, you can get new aluminum skin.  https://www.all-rite.com/aluminum-siding-metal.html
I can imagine how much the shipping would be, but...

Starting at 8.40 a square foot!! Not a lineal foot..SQUARE!! Lets see..About 4 feet wide x 21 feet long..Over $700 just for the sheet..Now ship it..Right!!

Elandan2

Actually, you can get new aluminum skin.  https://www.all-rite.com/aluminum-siding-metal.html
I can imagine how much the shipping would be, but...
Rick and Tracy Ellerbeck

LJ-TJ


RockwoodMike

I am going to use this pressure treated wood to rebuild the lower skirt fender well area..Using that pocket screw system and the construction glue..That will never rot away!! :)clap Those two open areas will be stuffed with blue foam..

RockwoodMike

Small progress report :)clap Actually going back together some..I made the new plywood piece that replaced the rot on the right side of the coach..With a typical paper template and using CDX plywood..Then gluing it up like crazy..You got to be careful doing a big piece like this..It will float on the wet glue as you are setting the weights on it and go out of position..After setting all the dumbbells and water jugs on it, it had shifted some..I was able to tap the edge and it re positioned itself..That will set over night..I sanded the blue foam lightly just to clean it up using that palm sander..All it really did was remove the original glue remnants..

RockwoodMike

Quote from: Rickf1985 on October 15, 2019, 09:23 AM
If you go to this thread, http://www.classicwinnebagos.com/forum/index.php?topic=15070.0 , You will see that they took out the entire lower side wall and there are some steel beams in there. I think the two of you can be learning from each other on how to do your rebuilds. Although we have not heard from them lately and you seem to be way ahead of them in some respects.

I have read and re read that thread and on post 6 it shows this big rotted area and I can not figure out where that section is..The big thing on this is to preserve the skin..It would next to impossible to re create it..And I am seeing it cut up..There really isn't any reason to do that..I just wish they were back on this with any kind of update..Would be interesting to see it and how it is coming along..

Rickf1985

If you go to this thread, http://www.classicwinnebagos.com/forum/index.php?topic=15070.0 , You will see that they took out the entire lower side wall and there are some steel beams in there. I think the two of you can be learning from each other on how to do your rebuilds. Although we have not heard from them lately and you seem to be way ahead of them in some respects.

tmsnyder


Oh don't worry.  We are all reading it.   We just think you are nuts! :)rotflmao :)rotflmao


I'm really enjoying this thread  :) :)ThmbUp





Quote from: RockwoodMike on October 14, 2019, 09:59 PM
Thanks for the words of encouragement!! I am just wondering how many people are reading all of this..

RockwoodMike

I have a Wild Hair idea.. Hm? Fixing that port wall..Drop the bottom half like I did with the little starboard side piece..I need to think this through but it might work..Stilt the ceiling up to hold it ..2x4 from ceiling rafter to floor..Screwed together at both ends with that pocket screw system..Maybe 5-6 of those..The wall at the midpoint line is nothing but foam..Cut the foam with that 4 inch putty knife that I have shown earlier..That blue foam is easy to cut..Take out all the mounting screws..I need to look at the back corner to see how that is attached..I need to fix the first panel before I touch this full length wall..But that is the idea..Get it out and lay it on the ground on top of moving blankets..Doesn't get scratched that way..And then repair everything..I think that is what is going to happen..What do you think?? Hm?

RockwoodMike

In regards to this repair section..The new Plywood is going to be glued to the original foam..I did a test glue up, because I saw another thread of the attempts to glue plywood to foam without the foam being eaten by the glue..Liquid nails is what I used to glue that top board to secure it to the aluminum skin..Worked great for that..But never used it for foam to plywood during the roof construction..Liquid nails has reformulated the glue as a latex base..I think it use to be a hydrocarbon base..But it works fantastic..Small piece of ply to a scrap piece of foam..Over night clamp..I am totally blown away on the strength of the bond..Did the usual zig zag application..Mated the 2 pieces and kind of wiggled them back and forth..That spread the glue flat and then clamped over night..Worked Great.. :)clap