Engine Overheating solved...I think

[The_Handier_Man1]

From: Ksnarf  (Original Message)
Sent: 12/7/2003 2:53 PM

last night when i was driving some friends home, every time i would push the engine (going up steep hills at 55) the top on the upper coolant filler would come off and the engine would quickly overheat. There is a relief tube that seems to be blocked (at least it looked blocked at 11 at night in the pouring rain. )  is there anyway to secure this lid so it doesn't come off so quickly? anyone know a place to get replacment relief tubes?

kris



From: denison
Sent: 12/12/2003 12:44 PM

Did you ever solve this? Your description of a relief tube didn't bring any picture to mind. Mine doesnt have an overflow recovery system, if that what you were referring to. It has a large header tank instead. denison



From: mightybooboo
Sent: 12/12/2003 1:55 PM

I dont get it either,sounds like an expansion tank thats pressurized like on new vehicles??? That doesnt sound like a non pressurized overflow tank that should have maybe an inch of coolant on the bottom when cold and radiator filled up.My 440 has an overflow tank as stock equipment,1978.And it does get used when putting a load on,but it doesnt overflow.Hooks to a little hose coming off the radiator cap neck.
BooBoo



From: dave76Chieftain
Sent: 12/12/2003 4:03 PM

Far as I know, the 440 engines in the motorhome chassis all had a cap on top of the radiator plus an extension hose of the front (top center) of the radiator to another fill extension housing with a it's own raditor cap.  Allows easier access to fill with coolant.  Mine is like this (77) and it's what is shown in the 72 - 75 MH chassis manual.  The coolant recovery house tapped off of the fill neck for the radiator cap on top of the radiator.  My coolant recovery tank is mounted on beside the radiator (passenger side with bottom of tank even with bottom of radiator).
  A bit off topic but nice to know is I could easily see the timing marks on my 440 by unbolting the radiator overflow tank and moving it forward a bit.  Could then shine the ole timing light right on the marks without worry of the fan or anything else (well, nothing more than the timing light cables can get burnt on the exhaust manifold).  Will say, if you still have a dual fuel setup (gas/propane), it's still going to be tough because of that preheater/regulator thingy for propane that is mounted in that area.  PO had already removed carb propane components so I just finished removing the rest of the none usable propane stuff.  Gee, I can see my altenator now! LOL 

Dave



From: Ksnarf
Sent: 12/19/2003 5:17 PM

I have yet to get this solved. Bascally the system is setup with the radatior has it's own relief valve with a tube that runs to this upper tank that sits right behind the engine cover, so it's the first thing you see. The cap to this tank has one tube that goes to the radiator and another that runs below the bumper for over-flow. As long as i don't push the engine this cap stays secured, but if i try to go up hills, or an extended shallow grade, the cap to this tank will come off the engine will slowly over-heat.

kris



From: denison
Sent: 12/19/2003 6:57 PM

I cant visualize anything but a coolant recovery system. The rubber tube taking the overflow to the catch bottle would be connected in the filler neck just under the top of the radiator cap. The overflow catch bottle would have a tube to get excess coolant down and out. If that tube was plugged up it might make the lid of the catch bottle rise up when the coolant pushed out of the radiator. And radiator caps dont live forever, if it was feeble it might not be holding pressure. So I might replace the radiator cap, or caps - mine has two, and see if it still happened. A hard working engine would generate enough heat to have boiling in the head if the cap wasnt holding 15 psi, and the steam would push the liquid coolant right out the top of the system. A thermostat not opening fully could also happen. Another trick is not to have a high percentage of antifreeze in your coolant. 50% is more than needed unless you live in a subzero climate. Water transfers heat better than ethylene glycol and doesn't expand as much. 10% or 15% ethylene glycol solution might work better. Do you know if the radiator is clean? denison