Bowen 6 Gallon water heater replacement options?

[Wantawinnie]

I looked a little closer at my water heater. It is a Bowen GH6 6 gallon with 7.2 gallon per hour recovery. I think it said 7800 btu or maybe 8700.

Looks to be old, hard to tell the condition but it has seen better days. The serial number is 10949, anyone know what age that puts it at?

I have a line on a 10 gallon Atwood that is only a year or two old for $100. Thinking about just going with that rather than waiting for the old one to leak all over my new floors in 6 months.

[ClydesdaleKevin]

Just make sure you have room for the 10 gallon before deciding to go that way.  They are the same width, but stand about 2 inches taller...you'd have to cut the outer wall out a bit to make it fit, and if there is a floor in the way, you can't make it fit.  And they are about 3 inches deeper, so make sure you have the clearance behind it.

Kev

[Wantawinnie]

I was wondering about that. I asked the guy for the model # and measurements but haven't heard back yet. Is it best to go with the old standing pilot or auto igniter? Are the newer igniters troublesome at all?

[ClydesdaleKevin]

Never had a problem with an Atwood auto ignitor, even on our HR, which has the original vintage '89 Atwood with electronic ignition.  Still works great!

We did put a 10 gallon Atwood in our 77 Itasca, replacing the old 6 gallon tank.  And yes, they are just about 2 inches taller...we had the necessary clearance, but I had to use a jigsaw and cut the thermopanel wall out 2 inches higher, dig out some of the styrofoam, and frame it out in wood on top so the water heater would be securely mounted.  And they are 3-4 inches deeper, so make sure your cabinet is deep enough.  Ours was BARELY deep enough on the Itasca.

They are the exact same width.

If it doesn't come with the exterior door, you'll have to buy one for it.  The door is also 2 inches higher.  The 6 gallon door won't fit them.

Kev

[Wantawinnie]

Thanks Kev,

The guy called and gave me the model. It is a G10-3E so it does have electronic ignition. It has the exterior door as well. The unit came out of a one year old FEMA trailer. I looked up the specs and it should fit in there after opening up the top like you mentioned. Specs for cutout are 15 1/2" H, 16" W, and 21" D.

Are there any clearance requirements for these? I hope the 21" depth includes the plumbing connections as well.

[ClydesdaleKevin]

If you are creative with your plumbing fittings, the 21 inch depth actually does include the fittings, but you'll have to come at it from the side and not straight on.  If I recall correctly the propane line is in the same place as the 6 gallon Atwood, but yours is a Bowen, so you might have to extend/shorten the propane line as well.  You'll also need a good 12 volt source for the ingniter, and if I recall correctly, you'll need a switch as well.  If it doesn't come with a switch, you can get Atwood switches on eBay pretty cheap.  This is so you'll have a way to turn it on and off, since they don't have a switch on the actual heater, just wires coming out.

I would leave the heater hoses right where they are and just close the loop at the heater and at the engine...in case you ever want to replace the heater again in the future with one that uses engine coolant as well...its an awesome feature if you do a LOT of long distance travelling, or decide to someday fulltime it in the RV.  We love that feature on ours.

Kev

[Wantawinnie]

The water heater is nearly installed. I have to remove the motor aid lines coming up through the floor in order to slide the new heater back another 1 1/2". Otherwise the modification for the 10 gallon heater install went pretty well.

Here is the original opening.



Trimmed exterior siding pic. Be cautious doing this as the siding is razor sharp.



Rotoziped out the thermopanel insulation. I set the depth to remove the insulation first and then the interior paneling came out last.



Heater slide in place with about an inch to go.



Looking down from above. The heater needs to come back past the motor aid lines that are connected by the black heater hose going into the floor. The original piece of wood bracing to the right of the heater will go back in above the heater on the inside paneling for support.

[DaveVA78Chieftain]

lylescot719:
Since Mark pushed us here:
Well, that is a personal choice of features and how much electrical wiring upgrade you want to do

In order of upgrade:
Pilot only model - Atwood Current model G6A-7 (Your original)
Pilot/115VAC electric - Atwood Current model GC6AA-8 (Have to add 115VAC leg)
DSI only - Atwood Current model G6A-8E (Have to add 12VDC leg plus single wall switch)
DSI/Electric - Atwood Current model GC6AA-10E (Have to add 12VDC and 115VAC leg plus double wall switch)  [I am getting ready to install this version shortly]

Do you understand the difference between pilot and DSI?  Pilot you light with a match.  DSI lights using an electric spark (derived from the 12VDC input).

So, the real question becomes just how much creature comfort (ease of use) do you desire?

Atwood site: http://www.atwoodmobile.com/water-heaters.asp

Atwood Brochure: http://www.atwoodmobile.com/water-heaters/atwood-water-heaters-brochure.asp

Dave

[lylescott719]

Thanks Dave, I think that I would stay original with the pilot light by match routine. Reason one, they are a tad cheaper, reason 2 no need to run any more wires and figure out where to tie into. Sure appreciate your time in responding. I have checked prices and they jump all over the place. So far the cheapest is ebay, about $260 including shipping (don't know if they will come with warranty or not), but almost a $100 savings with new door!

[DaveVA78Chieftain]

Then you should be good to go.  That's why I said personal choice.

Goodluck
Dave

[bethany]

Hi Dave,


My husband and I are quite thankful for your thoughtful responses to the various questions posed in this forum.  Sharing your wealth of knowledge is quite a gift to the rest of us "newbies." 


On the subject of the Bowen GH 6 water heater.  Ours has sprung a leak (or multiple) from the tank and is in need of replacement.  I really want to keep the motor assisted hot water option, but I cannot seem to pin-point what the correct replacement Atwood tank is for that option.  I believe we would want this one with the heat exchange:


GH6-8E 96270 OEM: 96136 Aftermarket:  96136


Is this correct?  Any advise or recommendation on this topic is greatly appreciated.  Thank you!

[DaveVA78Chieftain]

GH6-8E 96270 OEM: 96136 Aftermarket:  96136
That one is DSI (12VDC source) with motor assist.

If you also have, or want to add 110VAC heat, then the GCH6A-10E (96158) is the correct model.  Allows you to heat the water with 110VAC rather than, or in-conjunction with, propane.

[bethany]

Thank you so much for the information and assistance