Sources for Radiators!

[Slantsixness]

Sent: 6/14/2005 10:15 AM

There is not a lick of sorces or threads about radiators. Mine fell apart when I took it out, although it doesn't leak, and I have another one.

But here is the latest dilemma.....

I have one out of a '77 D19 318
I have a '72 D20 w/318.
These radiators look really close until you look at the brackets that are welded on...

The newer radiator has mounting tabs at an angle about 8" up the radiator.

The original '72 radiator has two flat tabs about 3" up from the bottom.

Uh.... Houston....we have a problem...

Anybody ever dealt with this? I know I could make brackets that would fit it into my winnie, but it has to fit fairly exactly or the fan shoud will be eaten by the fan!

Got a source for a new radiator? got any of the later mounting brackets that bolt to the front frame (I'll need the other two long angled ones, too!)

uh.... Help.... about the only thing I can't do myself is welding..... I've just never been good at it!

Tom

[mightybooboo]

Sent: 6/14/2005 10:58 AM

I suppose if the fan shroud absolutely cant fit back on,you could add a couple electric pushers to  the front.Be a shame  though, I kinda dont like fixes that involve removing a system  that works, and adding more to make  it more complex.
then again,some fans off a late model  junked car would work,these electric fans nowadays are VERY dependable.

A little OT,a friend of mine had a 66 Falcon wagon (Mustang station wagon,all the same chassis/drive gear) Got a 3 row mustang radiator when  he replaced his.Man was it ever nice!T  here was no way, no how,c ould he ever overheat that car.The company that made em called em 'Desert Coolers'

If I ever need a rad, I  will  look for  a larger one like he did.We are talking just an awesome upgrade for a vehicle.

BooBoo

[HeavyHaulTrucker]

Sent: 6/14/2005 2:50 PM

Tom, here is an assembly method that might help you line everything up corectly...

Remove the mounting tabs/ brackets from both radiators.

Take the radiator that you are going to install, and put the fan shroud on it.

Have a helper hold it in place so that the fan is centered in the shroud with the proper spacing all around.

Mark the position of the bracket holes in the framework on the radiator where the brackets will be located.

Re-weld your brackets from the old radiator in the locations you marked so that the holes line up.

John

[Slantsixness]

Sent: 6/15/2005 6:48 AM

John,
Yep. Thats what I'm going to have to do. Unfortunately I'm terrible at welding! I have a tendency to have to see just what I'm doing and forget to put the helmet down, and then of course the lights go out and I'm done for! but I guess it's important enough to me that I'll go get one of these new welding helmets that auto-darken.... alternatively I may be able to just change the frame mounted brackets over to the newer style, or make my own...

Been trying to find a radiator that would just fit and I've been laughed at enough trying to do that.
By the way... Radiators.com is terrible, they lied to me and said they could get one, then told me to go to camping world (which doesn't even sell radiators). so these guys frustrated me to no end yesterday. I was ready to buy it from them, then they got on the phone and said "oh, it's a class A? we don't have that and can't get that" Somewhere in their book they have it listed that an M300 chassis is a class C motorhome. Arrrgh

I will see what I can do to get the later model installed... even if I have to weld!

Tom

[salplmb]

Sent: 6/15/2005 9:31 AM

tom,
just a question and a thought. why not just have the radiator recored? then the original should just bolt right back in. if you were going to buy a new one they should be comprable in price. i had mine redone and it was only a couple hundred. works very good now. don't know how old the ones you have are but can't beat the pease of mind of knowing that its new. good luck.
sal

[Slantsixness]

Sent: 6/15/2005 10:03 AM

I wish that recoring was an option. Unfortunately I haven't been able to find ANYBODY near my town that does it. These guys are all parts changers now. The old radiator repair shops are just gone, it seems. Frustrating, to say the least!

Shipping it off to have it recored would cost a fortune, plus I have the other chance that it would get damaged if I did ship it....

The radiator I have (the '77) is in good shape and looks fairly new. My old '72 radiator is barely staying together, and if I dropped it, I think the core would just fall out. Copper and brass just doesn't last after 33 years sitting with antifreeze in it.

I may have a way to get the '77 frame brackets, I just haven't heard back as to whether they're still there or not.

Tom

[denisondc]

Sent: 6/15/2005 11:45 AM

In 2002 got the rad. from my 72 413 recored at Springfield Radiator, 7719 Fullerton Rd # A, Springfield, VA 22153 Ph: (703) 912-7900.
I had gotten it cleaned at the same business in 1991 for $75. The recoring cost between $400 and $500, along with fixing a few old age cracks in the top tank. He was glad to see the 7 digit mopar number on the top tank. I asked him if it would be possible to get a 4 row core, in place of the 3 row. He said it could be done, would take longer to find the core or wait for it to be made, and the price would be at least $800.
Instead I began looking on ebay, found a good used one that cost
I might add the original 3 row rad. has always been adequate in the hottest weather, until it had been 10 years since it was cleaned and when the original fan clutch was 29 years old, when it began overheating on the highway in temperatures above 95f.

[Slantsixness]

Sent: 6/16/2005 6:54 AM

Denison,
I didn't think springfield radiator was still around! With all the road construction mess around Fullerton Rd, I figured they just closed up. I Got a Van radiator tank fixed at springfield once..

I'll call them today and see. I have a 318, and the original radiator is only a 2 core, and the '75 radiator is a 3 core, so I'm still up in the air on what to do, but now at least I have another possible option! Maybe they can clean and modify the '75 radiator. that would be great!

Thanks,
Tom

[HeavyHaulTrucker]

Sent: 6/16/2005 9:35 AM

Tom, I would go with a 3-row core... better cooling ability on hills!


John

[Slantsixness]

Sent: 6/16/2005 9:38 AM

Yep, the '75 is a 3 row. I'm going to find some way to get it in there even if I have to glue it to the shroud! (just kidding)
Tom

[denisondc]

Sent: 6/16/2005 10:18 AM

Springfield Radiator in the Fullerton Road Industrial complex is about next door to Arlington Armature (which is no longer located in Arlington) where I got my rebuilt 413 starter last time. But each time I go there the roads have been moved around!

[Slantsixness]

From: Slantsixness
Sent: 6/16/2005 9:29 PM

Tthe brackets are welded to the harnesses, which are soldered to the tanks.

Here's the differences:

1972 radiator and the 1975 note the angled brackets and the height above the lower tank.

Unfortunately I set out tonight to try and see if I could swap the side harnesses, but they are really quite different between the years. 
[size=78%] [/size]
I think I may destroy the '72 radiator and scarf the side brackets then weld them to the '75. A project for tomorrow!

Tom

[mightybooboo]

Sent: 7/14/2005 12:01 PM

I really dont see why any radiator,of the same configuration and of approximate size wouldnt work.  I put a rad  in a Mustang from a dissimilar vehicle,but approx. same type,worked just fine.  Just changed the tranny cooler lines to  fit a smooth nipple from the screw in lines it had, used high pressure power steering hose to join em,e xcellent result.

BooBoo

[denisondc]

Sent: 7/14/2005 1:31 PM

I looked at using one of the so-called racing radiators in my RV. It had a of reassuring h.p. rating, but in my discussions with a custom radiator maker, he pointed out that any radiator meant for racing is meant for a high rate of air flow - from high vehicle speed, as well as having a specific water flow rate in mind. I wanted a lot of heat transfer ability with the air being drawn through a radiator going up a hill at 25 mph or even less, being sucked through by the belt drive radiator fan. I also found out that more rows of core tubing is good but not great. For one thing, the number of fins per inch, the fin area and shape, and the cross section of, and flow rate through, each core is also important. With a 3 row core having the same specifics as a 2 row core, you dont get a 50% indrease in cooling capacity, more like 25% at most, because the rest of the system - pump, cooling jacket interior shape and volume, etc. wont be any larger. I decided to stick with what I had.
The coolant has been in mine now for 8k miles and two years, (havent needed to add any) and I want to do a flush and refill. Has anyone good experience with one of the cleaning solutions in a can?

[mightybooboo]

Sent: 7/14/2005 3:13 PM

I've lost some coolant out of my recovery  bottle from evaporation, thats about it for now.  Once I got it up to specs, its been a good system

BooBoo

[oldRoadRanger_al]

Sent: 7/15/2005 5:29 PM

Thought I?d fill you in about my radiator woes for my 1977 MB400 chassis with a 440 motor.

Original 2 row ran hot at times despite it being clean as a whistle, proper skirted thermostat, new HD thermal clutch, etc. My search for a 3 or 4 row was a hard one as the 440?s radiator has both inlet and outlet on the passenger side.
One internet discount radiator seller said they have a "high efficiency two row, equal to a three row" I said no thanks and they suddenly had a three row available for the same price. I jumped for joy and ordered. What showed up was two, two row radiators and charges for both on my credit card! They took one back but I got stuck with the other one? no return policy. It?s a very nice quality Visteon still new in the box (anybody want it?).

I found out that only one manufacturer still makes a three row radiator for the 440 application in Dodge vans/class C motorhomes from the mid-late 70?s (three row?s came stock with factory installed AC, many class C?s had aftermarket AC and a two row). The company is Spectra Premium Industries radiator is part number 212. I got the best price on this very expensive rad. by ordering it through JC Whitney! They were even cheaper than Rockauto.com. who has unbelievable low prices on Raybestos brake parts for this chassis? wheel cyls. 8 bucks vs. 46 for the same part locally.

JC Whitney sent the wrong radiator two different times before getting it right even though I specified "SPI 212 radiator" . Finally got the correct one and it?s poor quality made in Thailand. Side brackets were soldered on off kilter and one was too far out, radiator would not fit in! (hit the fan). I paid a radiator shop to unsolder my old brackets and install them on the new radiator. Even though it?s suppose to fit this application the fit is poor, too tall. Radiator shop says it?s the older style for earlier models before mid 70?s.

The way I should have gone (now I know) was to get radiator model number 889 three row (around $150 discount) or Transpro?s 4 row version ($219) and have the upper hose inlet moved to the passenger side by a radiator shop. Original Dodge part number for the 440 three row (with air conditioning), inlet/outlet?s on pass. side is 4039033 my original two row is 4039032

Only good thing is now the temp gauge never gets high.
Hope this info can help some of you with class C?s avoid what I went through.

[ontheroadagain]

Sent: 7/17/2007 8:10 PM

heres a company that will make any radiator you want i dont know what they charge but its has to be better than a cheap import that last a couple years and kinda fits http://www.griffinrad.com/customTemplate.pdf

[Slantsixness]

Sent: 7/19/2007 5:00 AM

That link is pretty cool. just add your measurements and they'll build it. Neat. (I don't know what they charge either).