Dash Volt Meter Only works when switch is pushed: 1975 Brave

Started by LJ-TJ, June 12, 2011, 11:58 AM

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LJ-TJ

Hey gang on my old bago the Volt meter would show me that the battery was charging while I was  running down the road. On my new one it shows nothing, zip, zero when I'm running yet when I push my Main switch on the dash it shows 14 volts, when I push Aux it shows 14 volts. So my assumption is that the Chassis battery is fully charged and that the House battery is fully charged but just running down the road it shows 0. Should the gauge show me that the alternator is charging while I'm running and if so any ideas how I might fix it.  Thanks. New Winnie New Problems but not as big as the last.  Hm?

Elandan2

Our Elandan II is the same, you have to push the switch to have the voltmeter read the appropriate circuit.  I believe they made it this way to avoid wiring it through the ignition circuit so that you could check the coach batteries while parked.  I have a volt meter on my truck that is on all the time and it is quite a draw on the battery.  You could wire the chassis side through the ignition circuit so it would shut off with the key and then bypass that side of the switch.  Rick
Rick and Tracy Ellerbeck

JDxeper

TJ
My 78 has the same switch, that checks both batteries.  I also have a volt meter for the charging system.

http://www.classicwinnebagos.com/forum/index.php?action=mgallery;sa=album;id=101
Tumble Bug "Rollin in MO" (JD)

LJ-TJ

Thanks guys. I thought it was broken. The old one worked when you started the winnie and I could tell if the alternator was working of if something was wrong if the amps dropped. So what I think I'll do is by an after market for it. So if I under stand you right it's not suppose work when the when the winnies running it just sits on zero until you push the main or aux button. Hm?

DaveVA78Chieftain

Thats part of the design for the new style dash.  Prevents a  ghost load that could drain a battery down.
With the engine running with no shore power / generator:
A) If the NORM / DUAL / MOM switch is in the NORM position, then the voltmeter will show charging voltage for MAIN and at rest voltage for AUX.
B) If the NORM / DUAL / MOM switch is in the DUAL position, then the voltmeter will show charging voltage for MAIN and AUX.

With the engine not running (key OFF) with no shore power / generator:
A) If the NORM / DUAL / MOM switch is in the NORM position, then the voltmeter will show at rest MAIN and at rest voltage for AUX.
B) If the NORM / DUAL / MOM switch is in the DUAL position, then the voltmeter will still show at rest MAIN and at rest AUX.

With the engine not running (key OFF) with eiher shore power / generator:
A) If the NORM / DUAL / MOM switch is in the NORM position, then the voltmeter will show at rest MAIN and converter charging voltage for AUX.
B) If the NORM / DUAL / MOM switch is in the DUAL position, then the voltmeter will still show at rest MAIN and converter charging voltage for AUX.

Dave
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LJ-TJ

Ok so I want to know if my alternator is working and charging the batteries. What would happen if instead of connecting the red wire or hot wire from the volt meter to the fuse box some were, I connected it to the + side of the coil? Wouldn't that tell me if the alternator was charging the battery. Hm?

DaveVA78Chieftain

Nope,
Coil is fed via the Ballast Resistor (reduced voltage to coil in RUN mode).



So, at the base of the steering column inside, you want to tap into red J10-16RE wire that is "ignition 1" (or accessories J2-2LB [light blue]) from the ignition switch.  You could also go to the autosupply and pickup one of those accessory fuse taps thingies and tap off a fuse that has power to it when the ignition switch is ON.  You do not want one that has power all the time because you do not want a constant battery drain.



Dave
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LJ-TJ

Ok Dave I know I'm driving you crazy  $@!#@! but I think I'm making progress. SO! First the volt gauge was bad. Now when I use my Fluke and I test the battery I have 13 volts. When I go in and turn the igniton on and hit the Battery Condition to the Main all I get is 10 volts. When I go to check the Aux side nothing,zip. When I start the Winnie the Chassis battery goes to 14 volts and when I go inside and hit the main it shows 14 volts but when I hit the Aux Battery nothing. Hm? What da ya think. i??

DaveVA78Chieftain

QuoteFirst the volt gauge was bad.
Your confusing me a it as in post 1 you said it was working.

QuoteNow when I use my Fluke and I test the battery I have 13 volts.
Normal voltage at the battery after it has been charged.  Will drop to around 12.6-12.7 VDC after surface charge is bleed off.  You do not say if that is house, chassis, or both value.

QuoteWhen I go in and turn the igniton on and hit the Battery Condition to the Main all I get is 10 volts.
Voltage drop due to either cable length or connectors.  Because the voltage is 14 when engine is running, I suspect meter tap point is near engine such that it see's alternator output.  Check voltage at chassis battery itself while engine running and I bet is lower than 14.1VDC due to cable run loss.

Quotewhen I hit the Aux Battery nothing.
I bet you originally had DUAL/NORM/MOM in dual so you where seeing the alternator output through the relay.  Now it is in NORM.  If you do see the voltage in DUAL then that says there is an open between the relay and the house battery (relay is not cross conecting the 2 sytems).

Dave
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LJ-TJ


DaveVA78Chieftain

 I have to do bits and pieces at a time.  I unfortunately let it sit for a few years (gas prices) and I am slowly getting it back up to speed.  Not to worry, I enjoy helping you guys work through these quirks.

Dave
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LJ-TJ

Yeh know, I know this is a hell of a thing to say to a Motorhomeer but you could always Tent it for two days. I mean we really don't discriminate as a mater of fact. Shoot Jimmy might even have a spare bago you can put up in. This is one of those get togethers that once you go you'll move heaven and earth never to miss. i??

LJ-TJ

WELL I QUIT!  When I got lost going to the shitter today because all I could think of was DUEL, MOM, BATTERY CONDITION, AUX, MAIN, VOLTS, YES, NO, READS,DOESN'T READ and the dam thing still doesn't work . I think I'll take up TENTING. $@!#@!

DaveVA78Chieftain

Now sit back down, count from 1 to 50 backwards.  I will make a diagram tonight when I get home.
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Oz

Good idea Dave.  When TJ counts backward from 50, he falls asleep by the time he gets to 46.

:laugh:
1969 D22, 2 x 1974 D24 Indians, 1977 27' Itasca

DaveVA78Chieftain

Hope this helps to keep your trips to the shootter less aprehensive   W%



Dave
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ClydesdaleKevin

Quote from: LJ-TJ on May 02, 2012, 11:42 PM
This is one of those get togethers that once you go you'll move heaven and earth never to miss. i??


Hm?  I tried to just get it moved up one weekend so we could go...we are right THERE the weekend before...but NY opens the first weekend of August and there is no way we can miss the opening of the NY Renfaire.  Ah well...guess its easier to move heaven and earth...lol!

Kev
Kev and Patti, the furry kids, our 1981 Ford F-100 Custom tow vehicle, and our 1995 Itasca Suncruiser Diesel Pusher.

Jonbbrew

Quote from: DaveVA78Chieftain on May 03, 2012, 08:32 PM
Hope this helps to keep your trips to the shootter less aprehensive   W%



Dave
Nice graph....I will need to trace my wires as my meter doesn't work or it could be the switch/wiring....Who know but man is it hard to get under that dash of mine.
Keep Er' Goin' Eh!

Jonathan