How do I re-attach awning?

Started by Tater, May 19, 2016, 07:06 PM

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Tater

Needing some help on the best way to re-attach this awning track to the side of the MH. Thanks

M & J

We need some help knowing what kind of awning it is. A different view of how or where it attaches.
M & J

Tater

Okay I'll get more info. Thanks

Rickf1985

If that has pulled the screws out then you may have water damage inside and if that is the case you are going to have to get behind the wall to put some sort of backer in there to screw into. The original wall was very thin fiberglass over very thin luan over foam. If the moisture rotted the luan then you have nothing to grip with the screws. I have a 1990 Pace arrow by Fleetwood that has a leaky roof and has those issues. Mine is pretty bad. I am parting that one out and scrapping it.

Tater

It just pulled away so I think there shouldn’t be any water damage. The area that pulled away is at end next to the front of the coach. There is a built-in speaker right behind the area on the inside. Was thinking about going all the through the wall into inside with a bolt and put a big fender washer on it.

Rickf1985

You can do that but be sure to seal it up very well since that area gets a LOT of water coming of the awning. There is metal framing in the body but I have no idea if you will hit any. If you do you could use a sheet metal screw, again, with a lot of sealing. Drill a small hole first so if you hit metal you still have the option of the metal screw.

Tater

Was thinking about putting a good amount of dicor sealant behind it before pulling it up tight.

TerryH

I would suggest you consider rivets rather than screws. They have more holding power than a screw and by their nature will pull the rail into the body. Using an acceptable combination of rivet/size/mandrel/composition and back and surface sealant should mean you never have to address this again.
Suggestion only.
It is not our abilities that show what we truly are - it is our choices.
Albus Dumbledore

Tater

Since I haven’t been around awnings much can I just slide the awning to the rear of the mh to expose more of the track? I realize I’ll have to unhook the supports at the bottom

M & J

That's why I was wanting to know brand and pictures maybe from the top or side down the track.
M & J

Tater

Quote from: M & J on May 19, 2016, 10:35 PM
That's why I was wanting to know brand and pictures maybe from the top or side down the track.

Will try and get that info posted tomorrow M & J. Thanks

Rickf1985

The concern I would have with rivets is what are they going to hold on to? There is nothing there but very thin glass and even thinner luann, probably delaminated at that.

Tater

Here is a couple more pictures, one is the end that is good and the other is the end that is pulled away. A & W is the brand of the awning. Looks like I can take the good end top bracket off and just slide the awning down far enough to re-attach the other end.

DaveVA78Chieftain

If I understand the situation correctly, then I do not believe a rivet could be used.  Please notice that lag bolts are used to hold the awning brackets in place.  They go into the wood, or possible aluminum, structural framing behind the outer skin.  This framing extends down the rig and I believe is what the original awing strip is attached to (framing behind the outer skin).  The problem here is that the awning canvas holding strip is degrading with age.  Over time, more and more of that strip is going to fail.  The failure is not just due to the awning pulling on it when the awning is extended.  It is also being pulled away by wind resistance when driving the vehicle.  You really need to replace the failing awning strip as it will only get worse.
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Tater

Just an update on the awning, slid the awning out of way and removed all the old rivets, screws & sealant. Cleaned the area real well and used abundant dicor sealant behind the track. Used one inch rivets and it pulled up nice and tight. Thanks for all the replies.

dickcarl

I'd always assumed the factory had screwed directly into the steel box frame to mount that thing, not just the luan.  Silly me.
Mechanically challenged but willing to break, cross-thread or totally bugger up nearly ANY expensive component in the guise of repair.