Shakedown run! - campground hook-ups?

Started by justdon57, September 11, 2013, 05:19 PM

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justdon57

I am finishing up a few projects on the interior this week but we will be taking the rv to a KOA in a few weeks. I have never had an rv and I do not have anything telling me the hookup procedure when we arrive. I know enough to plug in the power, it is the plumbing I am not sure of, I assume this is fairly generic, I was hoping to solicit instruction from some old timers! thanks!

DonD

(Fridge not on electric) 

Before plugging in, shut off the breaker at the pedestal, plug in, then turn on the breaker. Have fun.
Don and Mary
2000 TC1000 Bluebird bus conv.

DaveVA78Chieftain

To prevent an RV LP/Elec fridge from being damaged the rig must be level.  You can use 2 x 10 blocks to level it or purchase plastic leveling blocks (Walmart [rv section])

There are different types of RV sites.  Some are no services, some are electric only, some are electric and water, some are electric, water and sewer.

       
  • Water: You will need a pressure regulator and supply water hose.  Both are available at Walmart in RV section.  When storing the hose, drain it completly and connect the ends together.  Never use that hose for anything else.  It's is reserved as a potable water hose.
  • Sewer: If available on the site, you connect the sewer hose to the in ground sewer connection.  However, you should leave the drain valve closed until the black tank gets to at least 1/2 to 2/3 full.  Like a regular toilet, you want the stored water it to flush the tank clean.  If no sewer hookup at site, then you will "dump" the tank at the KOA dump station upon leaving.  You might want to check the tanks to ensure they hold water before you go on the trip.  The campsite is not the place to find a leak that could make the trip very unpleasant.  Besides, you need to make sure the tank level gauges are working.
  • Awning: If storms or high winds invade the day/night, roll up the awning to prevent it acting like a sail and ripping off the rig.
  • Battery: Unless it has been replaced, that year Winnebago has a converter that can boil a coach battery dry over time.  Be sure to check the water level in the coach battery.
  • You may want to use water while traveling.  Having some in the fresh water tank is always a plus.  That also means you need to make sure the water pump is working.
  • I take it you have already tested the AC.  It can get rather warm in Florida.
  • Hot Water: Does the hot water heater work properly?
  • LP Tanks:  Need to be filled before the trip.
Dave
[move][/move]


OldEdBrady

On the plumbing issue--and stick with me here, 'cause I'm gonna use HIGHLY technical terms lie, "thingy' and stuff like that.  Somewhere, there's a pipe sticking out a bit.  May not be beyond the side of the right, but it's there.  And there should be a cap on it of some kind.  the pipe itself can be from 2-4 inches in diameter.  Now, you need one of those hoses the RV places sell.  It should come with connectors, but if it doesn't, then they'l;l seel those, too, and tell you how they hook up to the hose.  One end goes on that pipe coming out of the rig (AFTER you take that cap off).  It should just twist on.  The other end goes into a hole in the ground (usually).  All ya gotta do is get that thing into the hole.  Now, in most campgrounds, that hole has a cover over it.  That, my friend, is the sewer.  After that, most of those pipes have some valves on them.  Might be one, might be two.  In almost all cases, it's just some handles that you pull AWAY from the pipe.  That opens them up.  Now, if you're gonna be using the system for some heavy duty stuff (think bathroom here), then most people keep that valve closed for the duration of the stay.  If you're close to public restrooms, I'd recommend those for the "heavy duty" stuff.  Anyway.  If you MUST use the toilet for the heavy stuff, you should keep that one valve closed while you're parked.  There probably will be a dump station somewhere on the grounds,but you CAN use the one you've already hooked up to.  More on that in a bit.  Running water should flow through the drains, out the connections and into the holes.  That' takes care of MOST of the problems (such as they are).  Now.  If you MUST use your toilet for (ahem) heavy duty items, then you also should flush it out (not the toilet, but where it all goes) as soon as you can.  Believe me, it is better for your health and for the peace of mind for anyone with you.  To do that, you would open the valve you kept closed, and run water--LOTS of water) to flush the tank.  There are quite a few different items on the market that can help with this task, and I won't recommend any given one, since some like one thing, some like another.  And, of course, BEFORE you move out of the campground, you will have to disconnect all electrical, cable, if you used it, and the sewer hose.  Be sure to put that cap back on the pipe on the rig and make sure the valves are closed.  Hope that helps.

HandyDan

You need to get the movie "RV" starring Robin Williams.  Although it is typical Hollywood comedy, it still will show you what not to do.  Plus, it is entertaining.  You might want to get a set of horns after watching it.  I did!

1984 Holiday Rambler
1997 Newmar Kountry Star

Lefty

Never look into the end of the sewer line while opening the valve.. Rule #1 (And yes.. I did actually watch an idiot do just that at an RV campground in Gatlinburg )  :O :D

Rule #2 Buy a white water hose for hooking up to the faucet.. the green ones will make your coffee taste like it was brewed inside a old car tire.

Rule #3 Don't unhook the trailer before you chock the tires... and if you do, don't grab hold of the tounge as it's rolling down the hill into the trees... it will drag you along like a 10lb anchor attached to a cruise ship! Even if your wife is inside screaming at the top of her lungs.   Yep, saw that happen too.  lol
I reserve the right to reject your reality and substitute my own...

tiinytina

From RV and posted by my steering wheel from the movie RV . my pre flight...

Antenna down
awning in
stairs up!
Hi from Gone to the Dawgs! 1987 Tiffin Allegro in Deale MD. CW Rocks!!!

cosmic

One More.
Never drive out of the camp with your awning extended. Seen that.
It didn't stand a chance against that hydro post. But we laughed for the hole weekend.

HandyDan

Oh, check to see if all members are on board.  Leaving someone can have lasting problems. 
1984 Holiday Rambler
1997 Newmar Kountry Star

Froggy1936

And dont forget to check that all cabinets ,refrigerator & medicine chest are securly latched. A nd never place a glass container (spaghetti sauce) Above knee level. Turn off power to water pump ( a ruptured line due to vibration ) will make a real mess if pump can run till tank is empty . Do not leave dog tied to bumper ( they cannot run that fast )  A nd be prepared for something you will forget !! Frank






0
"The Journey is the REWARD !"
Member of 15 years. We will always remember you, Frank.

maxximuss

New to this too only had mine out 4 times now. But 1 thing I will emphasize that others have mentioned. Do NOT leave your sewer valve always open untill the tank needs draining. I see too many that probably have camped more times than me so far that just leave it open. As Dave posted  the tank needs a build up of water etc. and will flush properly this way when it comes time to do so.

legomybago

Great advise...some true...some REALLY true...haha

I always lock the dead bolt on the coach door when in travel...Those doors with there chincy latches will come open at one point or another without the dead bolt latched...usually happens when your buddy goes back to take a leek and grab a beer....I dont know why?
Never get crap happy with a slap happy pappy

EarlJr

You probably also want to remove the tire/wheel covers before you hit the road.  :-[

Wantawinnie

As a newbie borrowing my dad's trailer last year I found out a little to late to have all the adapters for the different electric hookups with you. If you don't the campground will probably have loners available with a deposit.(I figured that out after a couple days of no A/C in 90 degree temps) A dogbone was what the more experienced campers around me kept saying I needed.

justdon57

Excuse me for not knowing but when I hook up my waste tanks at the campground, do I pull the handles out or push them in? I believe one handle is for the grey tank and the other for the black? I bought a 10 ft hose for waste and a 25 ft for fresh water, we are going out for our 1st night this Tuesday

justdon57

I am not sure if the hot water heater works as of yet. There was no water or waste in the tanks when I bought the rig. When I get the water hooked up I will test the tank. I assume that the button on the range hood lights the hot water heater? I know that the LP tank is almost full and the gauge on the hood does reflect that. The a/c does work, however we were only hooked up to a 15 amp line so I did not want to push it! It sounds like the water pump works when I push that button, but again will be able to test it with water hooked up! I pulled the rig out of the back yard this morning and parked on a side street, it will be much easier to leave on Tuesday! thanks for all the responses

Oz

You should leave your dump valves pushed IN.  This closes them.  Leave them shut until you have most of your tank(s) full, then drain your black tank first.  Shut the valve, hold down your commode flush lever and run several gallons of fresh water into the black tank.  Open the valve.  That will flush the  black tank and the residue from the tube.

Move the tube to your gray tank outlet, then open that one. 
close the gray water tank valve again and run several gallons of fresh water in your RV.  Open the valve and that will finish flusing the tank and tube.

The additional issues are related to other than campground hook-ups so, if you can't figure out what's what, you can post those questions on the appropriate message board for more help.

  :)  :)ThmbUp
1969 D22, 2 x 1974 D24 Indians, 1977 27' Itasca

justdon57


DaveVA78Chieftain

QuoteIt sounds like the water pump works when I push that button, but again will be able to test it with water hooked up!

Water pump is only used to pump water from fresh water tank.
When hooked to campground water supply (i.e city water supply), you do not need the 12VDC pump as the campground water is already pressurized (like at home).  City water connection bypasses the fresh water tank and pump.

To test water pump, simply put some water in fresh water tank (say 1/4 tank) then turn on pump and verify water at faucets (hot and cold), shower, and toilet.

Dave
[move][/move]


justdon57


Stripe

Dun forget to turn on the hot water heater first before testing that..  :D
Fredric,
Captain of the Ground Ship "Aluminum Goose"
28' Holiday Rambler Imperial 28

justdon57

is that on the unit itself or somewhere inside?

Stripe

The hot water heater is usually a single unit with valve, burner and tank.  Whilst the heater is heating up, double check that there are no leaks coming from the safety valve.  The water heater gas valve and pressure relief valve are accessed through a panel on the outside of the RV.
They look a little something like this..
The Pressure relief valve is in the upper left with the red and silver tag on it.

You can click the photo to enlarge it..
Fredric,
Captain of the Ground Ship "Aluminum Goose"
28' Holiday Rambler Imperial 28

Froggy1936

Caution : Make sure hot water tank is full of water and all air is out of it before turning on .especially if it has electric heater .  Then make sure it is totally empty before winter storage ! if they freeze they rupture !
"The Journey is the REWARD !"
Member of 15 years. We will always remember you, Frank.

tiinytina

Also note that the light on the water tank switch only comes on as the unit lights up then the light will turn off.  If the tank stays on the light is not on, if the ignition fails the light comes on (at least on mine).....

Tina
Hi from Gone to the Dawgs! 1987 Tiffin Allegro in Deale MD. CW Rocks!!!