Primary Fuel Tank Sender unit is stuck at 3/4 tank I think.

Started by James E Vining, August 11, 2013, 01:06 AM

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James E Vining


I had filled the Tank Full by accident when I got it in 2007 as I did not know how much fuel was in it and with no fuel gauge and having to move it off the property Immediately I put in 15 gallons and the last 5 did not all fit, I know I took out 10 Gallons when I got it home and used it in mowers etc.

I Just got the fuel Gauge Working not long ago ( Jackwagon had disconnected the Wire that gave power to the Gauges, Dash Lights, Alternator, Turn signals Etc.) and it read 3/4 tank, it had been sitting quite awhile so I added 5 gallons and a bottle of Sta-Bil Fuel stabilizer and the Gauge read almost full.

I Then ran it quite a bit at Idle at 2K and a few Misc RPM ranges just to loosen up engine and not have it Running at one constant speed plus I believe it is good to have Oil Pressure up and Bit like when Breaking in a new cam but I may be wrong.
It was reading about 1/2 tank and I added another 5 Gallons just to get some more fresh fuel into the Tank

When I moved the  MH out of Driveway up street 1/2 Block and turned it around so I could wash my Driveway etc.
The gauge again read full, I pulled it back into driveway and it read 3/4 and it has been there for a few days I think I moved it and washed driveway last weekend, today when I was running with rear wheels off ground to ensure Brakes Worked, Diff was moving Smoothly and Speedometer was now working properly, I noticed a large amount of Bubbles in my Fuel filter and when I tried to take Fuel cap off I found it had a huge amount of Vacuum and each Time I installed cap waited to the count of 10 and removed it there was a Large amount of Vacuum and then with cap off after about 3 min it ran out of fuel.

I am thinking if tank is really empty it shouldn't be to hard to drop it and inspect the PU and the Fuel gauge.

Has anyone else had a Gauge that was working then Stuck?? As mentioned at one time it dropped to 1/2 but now says 3/4 tank, I Banged the heck out of tank and it sounds empty too, it should sound Pingy above any fuel line then become muffled and deeper bonging under a fuel line correct?
As in Fuel level in tank line not as in fuel to pump and carb line just to clarify.
Now in my Service manual they show the 25 Gallon tank but basically tank removal is pretty much the same correct??
This is one thing I have never ever done on any vehicle my entire life is remove a fuel tank.

Stripe

I'd say look at my post on how I got my gauge to work, but I'll be buggered if I can find the link.  Pretty sure I did a post anyway..  :)
Took pics n' everything..
Anyway, look at what may be in the way of dropping the tank (torsion bars, etc) aside from that, it's just a floor jack and a socket wrench away from being easy..
Fredric,
Captain of the Ground Ship "Aluminum Goose"
28' Holiday Rambler Imperial 28

James E Vining

Ya there is nothing, just hoping the strap attaching bolts aren't Permanently Rusted or corroded on.
My Tank is on the Passenger Side behind the Entrance door and in front of rear Tires outside of the frame rail. I have hit my head, gouged my back and darn near knocked myself Sillier trying to climb under it when I first got it then decided to stay away from that side at all costs.
I will do another search on fuel tanks and see if I can find your post thanks.

James E Vining

I was looking at my tank and even if I remove the straps I cannot pull the tank from under the vehicle as it has L brackets that hold it up so I will have to remove them too.
It would be no big deal but I no longer have my Air compressor, Air Dryer, and none of my Air Tools which included a 1/2 drive Impact Wrench and the size of these bolts i doubt I coudl break them loose.
I guess I will just have to hope it fixes itself or I will fix the aux tank and seal it and use it as a backup when main tank goes empty then get to a gas station as soon as I can I think the aux must be a 20 gallon or at min 15 gallon
I can also figure with a 40 gallon tank if I figure 7 MPG to be on safe side and take note of Odometer I should be able to figure when I need gas
280 miles man that is not very far for approx $160 of gas Dang. I guess I wont be going to far or to often in this unless I manage to get better mileage with the Electronic Dist upgrade and the 850 CFM thermoquad Upgrade (as long as I keep my foot out of the secondaries)
I can figure about 4-5 MPG if I have a heavy foot of course I have 4:56 Gears so its not like I will get a ticket for speeding as i think I may have a hard Time just doing 70 MPH which is the speed limit where I plan to be traveling to.


Stripe

I could not totally drop my tank, what I did end up dong was being able to drop it enough to access the wire connectors, cleaned everything up best I could, Tightened up the spade connectors, reconnected everything and now have a working gauge..

Here is a pic of the connectors, one wire connection was loose and had come off.


Same connections, cleaned with spade connector crimped and tightly attached...


Removing the bolts was not that difficult and I only needed to drop the tank about 4 inches to get access to it.
Fredric,
Captain of the Ground Ship "Aluminum Goose"
28' Holiday Rambler Imperial 28

James E Vining

What the heck I guess I should at least try to loosen the bolts before i give up, Sometimes with my back aching as bad as it does like today and nothing seeming to go right I really start to questing my sanity for having this kind of a project.
at least I don't have to jack MH up to get to most things so that is a Plus, I guess I just need to take a break and soon I will start Jonesing to work on it again. Had about 4 months where i couldn't do a thing so now I feel like I need to get everything done while I feel semi ok.

Stripe

Well, do what you can when you can, I say..  I lucked out in the fact that my RV also has Hydraulic jacks to lift her up.
Fredric,
Captain of the Ground Ship "Aluminum Goose"
28' Holiday Rambler Imperial 28