Engine won't start - almost no fuel to carburetor

[cncsparky]

May need a carb rebuild.  I sent mine to SMI carburetors.  They are in Cali.  Cost around $200, haven't installed it yet but will soon.

http://www.smicarburetor.com/

[crenninger]

yes, I am thinking that should be a good thing anyway - reading about all this new gas, ethanol, etc... and this original carb was definitely not designed for this.

I may try to do it myself, rebuild kit seems to be around 30-40$ -
but $200 if it's the final price, is really not bad to not deal with it.

[bluebird]

Unless you have quadrajet experience, I'd send it out for a professional rebuild. They can be challenging. That late of a quad will have adjustable part throttle, which is internal. If you get that wrong, you will chance burnning down the engine. quads have a problem with the well plugs leaking, they can be fixed, but if you've never done one you could mess up the casting.

I've worked on a few since the late 60s, and they are good carbs if right. Get your quad rebulit and forget about the holley replacements. Nothing is better than a good quadrajet. Just make SURE the fuel pressure is no more than 6.5 lbs. If you have the throttle plates  open too much, and too much fuel it'll run on. You need to measure the fuel pressure at the carb inlet with a good gauge. It is a must.

[crenninger]

Yes, if I end-up rebuilding the carb, I will send it . $200 is not worth for me to do it and screw it up.

I tried to find the emission sticker to check timing, and all I find is a sticker on the window but it has no mention of any timing info, just some pollution number.
Any idea on where the timing sticker can be?

Also I tried to start it again, and now I hear a clicking sounds pretty loud from the front/ right when seating on the driver seat. Really weird sound kind of a click for each revolution of the engine.

I sure hope nothing wrong with the valves... Looks like a pain to take the valve cover off.

[tiinytina]

Our sticker is actually mounted to the air filter housing....
Tina

[crenninger]

Nothing there either  i??

[DaveVA78Chieftain]

Sticker - Radiator support panel?

Dave

[crenninger]

for the radiator support, I saw that in the manual, from the outside I couldn't find anything anywhere close to the radiator, support or anything.

This is what I could find on the left side window - is this it only? or more sticker somewhere?
This one has no timing information

[MotorPro]

Make sure your advance is working a then set about 34 degrees total advance. Should give you about 4 to 6 initial if everything is working correct.

[DaveVA78Chieftain]

There would be (or rather would have been) another sticker that would have plug and timing info on it.  It most likely had emmision control hose routing on it also.

Dave 

[cncsparky]

On the carb deal, I'm a DIY guy but I figured the expense and especially time I wouldn't save much.  Often, the carbs need throttle shaft bushings and there is a kit to buy to do it yourself but it adds up $$ (thinking the kit was around $60).  I thought $200 was somewhat of a bargain if you have the time to wait on it.  It was only just over a week, they turned around the carb in a day.

[DonD]

CNC..Get the carb on so we can get the results!!   W%

[bluebird]

Doubt very much if the timing is off, unless somebody messed with it.  Is this a large cap HEI or small cap? -- How to tell:  pull the cap, if it has a small rotor that just pushed on it is a small cap, if the rotor is held on with 2 screws it is a large cap.

The small caps are computer controled timing.
The large cap has weights under the rotor that rust up even if not sitting for so many years.

Take the 2 screws out and remove the rotor, you will find 2 weights with 2 little springs. Remove the little springs, the remove the little C-clips and pull off the weights. If the bushings are worn out, replace them and clean the rust off the weight and sliding surface.

If the bushings are bronze you need 1 drop of oil on the shaft, if plastic don't oil.

Those weights should snap back when pulled and released. If they don't the timing won't return to base timing like they're supposed to.

[crenninger]

It's a big cap with 2 screws.
I just changed it - I'll do the suggested procedure and clean everything up .

thx

[crenninger]

On the carb deal, I'm a DIY guy but I figured the expense and especially time I wouldn't save much.  Often, the carbs need throttle shaft bushings and there is a kit to buy to do it yourself but it adds up $$ (thinking the kit was around $60).  I thought $200 was somewhat of a bargain if you have the time to wait on it.  It was only just over a week, they turned around the carb in a day.

yes, that's the route I will take - I'd rather not deal with it for $200
first I need to investigate that ticking sounds - might be a stuck lifter...
I am thinking crud came loose when I ran the engine going home and now sticking the lifter.

[Froggy1936]

A noisy lifter is the least expensive noise maker. Before starting engine (due to carb problems ) Check oil for overfull and or fuel contamination, if level is ok and no fuel smell. Try an oil additive first with the old oil, Marvel mystery oil ,Rislone etc.  After driving it should clear up Then wile hot drain the oil and change the filter.

[crenninger]

that's the plan, hoping to go to the store tonight to get some engine flush or the like.

[crenninger]

Little video of the clicking
https://picasaweb.google.com/christian.renninger/20130226ItascaSunflyer?authkey=Gv1sRgCNWNnMGxhduJFg&feat=directlink

I put 1 quart of engine flush.

Ran 5mn no changes
Ill let it sit overnight and check again tomorrow

[crenninger]

well, bad news this weekend... I opened up the valve cover on the driver side and 2 pushrods were gone!!!

I was able to fish out one of them, doesn't look pretty at all.

2 valves are stuck in the head - not moving.
Amazingly the engine runs reasonably, but like 1 cylinder down on the passenger side.

I think that pretty much my dream of getting back on the road - I am not ready for a rebuild.

Ill post pics tomorrow.

[ibdilbert01]

well, bad news this weekend...

Sounds like a good news weekend to me, you found the problem!   

I am not ready for a rebuild.

Good, just work on the top half and you might have this thing licked, don't give up champ!   Were all here to support you!

[LJ-TJ]

Hey! You may not be down for the count yet. Lets see what you got to work with. Maybe looks can be deceiving.

[Oz]

Seriously dude, look at the positive support you see here.  Many of us have gotten to the point of feeling like you do and all the rest have always been there to pick us up out of the dumps and give us the support and motivation we need to lick the problem.  This is the biggest bunch of big, ugly, hairy cheerleaders you could ever want (except for the gals, they're pretty and... Tim.  He's pretty too).

A day at a time... one thing at a time.  If there's anything I've learned here, that's it.  And having all these experienced friends right there with answers to your questions... Well, it's like working on your rig with Techno-Angels hovering over you... okay, I'm going to stop inhaling exhaust fumes now...

[crenninger]

thank you for the support - but I am not going into this - I don't have the time or energy for such work..
now pictures.
The engine still runs!!! I did 40 miles to bring it home just about 1/2 power.

[DaveVA78Chieftain]

Sorry to hear of your misfortune.  I am sure it is very frustrating.  I know you said in post 1 that you could could use it if you got it running.  So what is your friend going to do with it?

Dave

[crenninger]

We are selling and hoping to get the money I invested in it back.

I listed it on craigslist about 2h ago and already have 3 emails with phone number -
if anybody from the forum , local-ish - wants first shot at it - let me know - I'll give you priority.

RV is currently in Redwood City - CA 94061

Currently listed for $1500.