Engine won't start - almost no fuel to carburetor

Oz · March 04, 2013, 03:26 PM

If you've already got the tank off and it does have rust in there, I wouldn't be too quick to slap it back on just yet.

Here's a couple post which may interest you on cleaning the tanks:

http://www.classicwinnebagos.com/forum/index.php/topic,4921.msg16567.html#msg16567

http://www.classicwinnebagos.com/forum/index.php/topic,3633.msg9261.html#msg9261

left had a post floating around where he went through the whole process, including pictures, and covering what he did when he found he had some rust spots which couldn't be ignored.

crenninger · March 04, 2013, 05:42 PM

A new tank seems to be around $200 aftermarket

Once I get the RV registered I wonder if it wouldn't be just easier and better to put a new one in.

cosmic · March 04, 2013, 05:54 PM

CLR will work great. you have to let is sit for 2 days. I have done this on many a motorcycle tanks. works terrific. only difference is the bike tanks need to be rotated every 2 days. winnie tanks are flat so you dont need as much clr.

Oz · March 04, 2013, 07:36 PM

Quote from: crenninger on March 04, 2013, 05:42 PM
A new tank seems to be around $200 aftermarket

Once I get the RV registered I wonder if it wouldn't be just easier and better to put a new one in.

Well, that's always a question that runs through our heads. If the tank is really rusted, it's likely the better route for you to go, if you're willing to part with the $200. Still, the new tank should be cleaned and coated as well to ensure you never have to think about it again.

bluebird · March 04, 2013, 07:39 PM

Is this tank a 80 or a 100 gallon tank? Where can you buy one of those for $200? I believe my old Itasca had a 100 gallon tank on it.

Fuel pressure must not exceed 6.5 lbs for a carb. If it does it'll blow fuel by the needle and seat. Make sure you put the regulator in a place you can change the diaphram, as it will need to be changed.

My Holley regulators have only lasted a couple years before leaking on the race car.

crenninger · March 04, 2013, 07:49 PM

Stock tank is 40 gallons - there is a 60 gallons aux tank but it's totally disconnected

I only need the 40 gallons at least for now

I already have a stock pressure regulator in it which I am replacing with a new one.

Oz · March 04, 2013, 07:53 PM

Well, get it done and get some gas in that carburetor! Winter won't last forever.

crenninger · March 04, 2013, 08:38 PM

Winter ?? It was 70+ last weekend... :-)

bluebird · March 04, 2013, 08:50 PM

You still have to adjust the regulator to get the psi you want. Don't just stick it on and hope it is right. On the Holley, when you adjust the screw down increases psi.

crenninger · March 04, 2013, 08:51 PM

And I bet you need a special tool for that correct?

bluebird · March 04, 2013, 09:46 PM

Nope just a pressure gauge. Screw it in the outlet of the regulator, turn on the key and see what pressure you have. If it's higher than 6.5 lbs, loosen the lock nut and back up the adjusting screw till you get what you want, and lock it down. Turn it back on to make sure it's where you need. Did the factory regulator return fuel to the tank? Don't know why the factory had both pumps on some of those rigs. My 95 doesn't have a engine mounted pump, and it has a return line back to the tank.

crenninger · March 04, 2013, 10:21 PM

I believe the regulator is inline on the main fuel line. I do have a return from the mechanical pump to the tank

These years have both pump that was Chevy answer to vapor lock as mentioned in the manual, mechanic pump wasn't enough.

I'll go back Saturday in hoping to finish everything up, I already have appointment at the DMV to re-register it!!!

Lefty · March 06, 2013, 03:01 AM

Took me some looking,but I found the post Mark referred to.
http://www.classicwinnebagos.com/forum/index.php/topic,84.msg84.html#msg84

crenninger · March 06, 2013, 12:09 PM

thank you - More update after saturday when I work on it again

crenninger · March 10, 2013, 02:52 PM

Made a lot of progress,
Put the tank back together, checked everything and its runnin!!!

We drove it up/down the road and worked good.
I replaced the distributor cap & component, spark plug wire and cold it runs really good.

Now I hope my last problem...
When hot, it doesn't idle right. It's also hard to start hot.
Once running and keeping the gas on, it runs ok. But restart hot and idle hot are not good.
Any tips?

Thank you

crenninger · March 10, 2013, 04:09 PM

One more thing... When it gets in gear, the idle lowers and kind of kills the engine.

Any help appreciated.

Elandan2 · March 10, 2013, 05:21 PM

Sounds like you may need to increase the idle speed with the idle adjustment to open the throttle blade slightly and then adjust the idle mixture screws to bring the speed back down. Rick

bluebird · March 10, 2013, 05:25 PM

Make sure the carb is NOT flooding over. If the fuel pressure is too high it will push fuel past the needle, causing a flooding condition. Take the air cleaner off, turn on the key, do not start, and look down the carb with a good light. If you have fuel running in the engiine with it not running, it'll cause the hot start issue, and ruff idle, and contaminate the oil real quick.

crenninger · March 10, 2013, 05:37 PM

Couldn't see gas going through

I raised the idle about 3/4 to 1 turn and now seems happy

I think that's it for now. Next weekend I am planning to bring it home

Thank you all

crenninger · March 11, 2013, 10:46 PM

Well.... Got it home... But wasn't pretty... Good it wasn't a long drive.

So yesterday it was running great after just idle adjustment.

Today we get there this evening, and start it, and it feels like it runs on 6 or 7 cylinders!!

Well, at least really strange sounding and low on power.

So we decide to make the trip home, at least it'll be easier to work on.
And when I got home turn off, the engine start dieseling kind of.
Still runs when I turn the key off.

I had to restart it to move it a little bit, and same thing. Rough running and dieseling when I turn it off.

I had none of this yesterday.

So making progress, now I can work on it and check things in the evening

I've got a 30 days temp operating permit , hoping to get my smog check (thx CA) during that window.

Thanks you

piorun · March 11, 2013, 11:21 PM

You need a smog check on 28 year old vehicle?

crenninger · March 12, 2013, 12:08 AM

Yes! Thx California!

Lefty · March 12, 2013, 12:26 AM

Sounds like it's dribbling excess fuel into the engine. Either the pressure is too high (as mentioned earlier), or there is trash/rust stuck in the needle/seat preventing it from closing off completely.

I'd also check the timing with a timing gun to verify that it is correct, as too much retard can cause dieseling and hard starting.

If all else fails, buy a rebuild kit, a new float, and a gal. can of carb. cleaner (the kind with a basket.) The spray type costs too much to use for a full rebuild, and doesn't clean as well as the type you can soak the parts overnight does. Then rebuild it.

crenninger · March 12, 2013, 12:39 AM

So sounds more like carb to you?

With all new ignition, I was at loss in that dept

I don't have a light gun, I called a friend who is coming Sunday normally
I think he has one

Froggy1936 · March 12, 2013, 12:08 PM

Strobe type timing lights are available @ Pep Boys & Advance If you are going to buy one make sure your timing marks are visable (some are not) And buy a good light with a white beam not a red one ! If you are going to attemt a Quadrajet overhaul spend the week reseaching on line all the info you can get They are complicated but one of the best if you can make them work as designed If you doubt your abilities you are better off replaceing with a simple 4 BBL Holly Frank