1978 Beach-Craft 27' refurbish

[circleD]

WOW!! I thought about making my twin beds in the rear ONE big bed but now I'm scared to tear it down that far and find something like that  . But that is some fine work you have been doing there.

[PwrWgnWalt]

It was really more difficult trying to figure out "what" to do, than actually doing it. The process of taking it apart was quick, and the most difficult part of putting it back together is just sourcing paneling, ceiling panel, and building the new cabinets.


The original paneling was rotted in a couple of spots, probably coulda worked around it, but wifey said she wanted all of it replaced.... so it got replaced.


Although we knew about the long-term leak when we bought this MH, it is a good lesson about keeping the roof leak free (and windows, and everything else too!).

[sasktrini]

Looks great!  I'm hoping to get started on my 79 this weekend!  I'm inspired now!

[PwrWgnWalt]

Update:  got the bed platform all done, and the cabinet structures built and faced.  Even got the blinds installed and the lights re-installed (wiring hooked back up, too).


Here's the cabinet framework installation, up against the new ceiling.  Used 1" x 2" furring strips (cheap, but had to search hard for semi-straight ones!) for this main support structure.  A brad nail gun (air) with 1-1/4" brads helped this go smoothly (Harbor Freight), and avoided split wood when attaching one strip to another.  Used screws to attach framework to ceiling and to walls (where screws were added, a pilot hole was drilled in the furring strips to reduce splitting).

[PwrWgnWalt]

Then it was on to attaching the facia boards (stained hemlock) to the support structure.  Used the air-nailer again, which makes the process so much nicer.


The new blinds are seen installed (ordered them online from Lowes, they are a simulated woodgrain, wide-slat vinyl/plastic).  Very easy to install and operate, and are fairly lightweight.


Also got the shelving inside the cabinets installed after re-installing the under-cabinet lights (w/ LEDS) and taking care of the wiring.  Now, just have to finish up by re-installing the cabinet doors and the trim.

[PwrWgnWalt]

Almost forgot that I finished up the bed platform after installing the new water tank and getting some of the PEX tubing run in the far back corner while the bed was out.  I did finish installing plywood at the rear to completely cover the platform, and screwed it down good to the supports.  There is also a 12" width of permanent platform under each end of the mattress, so lifting the bed does not interfere with the blinds, walls or windows (the mattress is a Queen, and is only 80" long).


In the first picture, I had not yet added the plywood at the far back.  After doing so, I used 4 HD door hinges (stainless) from Home Depot to allow the mattress and bed-platform to lift (from the front, at the electrical distribution panel) to access the area underneath.

[DaveVA78Chieftain]

Looking great Walt, Good job - Dave

[DonD]

[Stripe]

Looks good!  Do you use the plastic or metal stays for the blinds??

[PwrWgnWalt]

Sorry Stripe, missed your question...   Not sure what a "stay" is, but... all of the blind is vinyl, the top mounts are white metal, and the clips to keep the bottom ends still and in-place are clear plastic.  I've been looking for little metal clips for the bottom ends instead of the plastic, with no luck so far.

[Stripe]

Ok, yeah, that is what I was asking about. I had plastic for a new set of blinds and still have metal ones for the two older sets that I still have in the 'Goose'...

[PwrWgnWalt]

Here's a couple of pictures of the new "Metal Hold Down Bracket" and "Pins" (or blind stays, blind keepers, blind clips, or blind hold downs... whatever they are called).  These are for the 2" blinds, but they have all sorts of stuff for all sizes.  Got them from www.fixmyblinds.com for the whole MH and all the new blinds going up.

They work real nice - keeps the blind bottom end from swinging around, are more durable than the little plastic ones that came with the blinds, and still allows the blind to tilt.  Quick to detach if one wants to raise the blind, too.

[PwrWgnWalt]

Doing all the plumbing has been real fun... not just replacing the old mix of (split!) copper pipe and various hose splices, but then we had to re-do the bathroom counter and sink, and the kitchen, too!


The bathroom sink is tricky - no real choices to replace the somewhat narrow (front to back) counter we have, so elected to go with re-doing the existing one using Krylon Plastic paint (rattle can, Chocolate Brown Hammertone).  Used it on the medicine cabinet too. So far, seems to work great!   Put new laminate down over the existing counter top (Tina picked that out, too), from Home Depot (WilsonArt, Breccia Nouvelle).  A router sure makes that easier, along with a sharp knife and a file.



Tina has the decorative eye (I was fine with the yellow bathroom), so here's a before & after shot of the bathroom counter and colors she picked out:

[PwrWgnWalt]

The faucets (fixtures) are household types.  4" bathroom faucet, and 8" kitchen faucet (both on sale when purchased).
Reused the kitchen sink, but had to get new drains as the chrome plating was wearing off the plastic on the old ones.
These are solid metal and should last.  So the differences in these before-and-after shots are the faucet, the counter top, and the new blinds and curtain...

[DaveVA78Chieftain]

Looking real good Walt   

[LJ-TJ]

Holy Cow what a difference. Well done.

[Stripe]

Wow....... Just, Wow.....  The counter tops... Nice!


Those stays are pretty cool too.  Those are what is holding the bathroom and kitchen blinds in place on my rig. No pins though as the blinds and stays are original to each other. The blinds have bumps that sorta "click" into place.

I have a Moen that will be going onto my sink to replace the older Moen on it now.

[PwrWgnWalt]

Getting to the driveline and chassis now, as we round third and head for home on the initial refurbish work...


The Center Bearing & Support (or carrier bearing, as it's also known) that supports the joint of the two sections of drive shaft from the transmission to the rear end needed to be replaced.  It fits onto (and 'supports') the 1.378 inch splined shaft of the front drive shaft where it couples to the rear half of the drive shaft.  The existing bearing seems fine, but the rubber insulator around it is shrunken and cracked with age. It will allow too much wobble as-is.  Looked on this site for info on a proper available replacement, but did not find anything listed for a M-500, so here's what I found:


The parts book shows that for my 1977 M500 chassis, the part number for the entire Center Support Bearing assembly is 3621457. 

There's an NOS one on eBay for $100.

My local Dodge dealer shows the part # has been superseded a couple of times, and is currently 5014097AA.
The new Mopar #'d part is square, and was apparently used in later years in other applications, although is not a very high-demand part these days.  They happened to have had one on the shelf for a while, the quote was $156.

NAPA also has the entire assembly, new, for about $58  and lists it as part number HB88107B (see pictures below)


I contacted a local big-truck company, Inland Truck Parts (ITP), and they had one too as part # CN210088-1X, for about $41 (see pics)

Upon inspection, both the NAPA and ITP units are made in China and appear to be the exact same part, identical in every way except price.

Using the NAPA # HB88107B & the Neapco # CN210088-1X, there are several manufacturers and parts available online.

I'll try to post some pictures when I get the job underway...

[PwrWgnWalt]

Have also been shopping for all 6 tires... wow...

Reading some of the other posts I have accepted that the 8R - 19.5 tires I will get are not going to be made in the USA.
the M500 is a 14,000 GVW MH, and although I haven't had it weighed yet, I will be getting 12-ply, Load Rating F tires.

After talking to 8 different shops, have heard that Japanese tires are good, but the Chinese have the most advance tooling and equipment, and are making excellent tires.  Ugh.

Locally, here's what I can get for 8R-19.5, price is per tire, mounted & balanced:

Advance GL283A   $230 ea.          same as Samson brand  (China)
Triangle               $240 ea.          (China)
Hankook AH11       $263 ea.          (Korea)
Sumitomo             $265 ea.          (Japan)
Bridgestone          $319 ea.             (?)
Goodyear             $350 ea.             (?)
Toyo                   $412 ea.             (?)

So, looks like Advance/Samson tires are in my near future.
Most shops said they can do either lead weight balancing, or 'bag' or beads or 'equal'.  It was interesting to hear each tell their preference - and why. Most stated that bigger tires benefit more from the bead-type, but lead seems to work quite well for this size.  We'll see... I am leaning toward something other that lead weights.

[pvoth1111]

6 tires less than 1000 bucks delivered

http://www.ebay.com/itm/6-tires-8r19-5-GL283A-All-Position-12-PR-truck-RV-tire-8x19-5-8-19-5-8195-/131226396578?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Tires&hash=item1e8db3e7a2&vxp=mtr

[bakerman]

Walt I just read your entire post on your Beach craft amazing work, and your attention to detail and quality of your redo is great. Your last post was about tires. I also read up Clyesdalekevin post about his Samsons he has put thousands of miles on then and you cant argue with that kind of results. I followed his recommendations and I installed 6 Samsons on my 1996 28ft Allegro and I also had them lead balanced they ride great I only have about a thousand mile on them but I went to my local tire shop inquired about the Samsons they told me the school system is putting them on there busses . Just thought I would pass on. I got 6 installed and balanced for $1320  Have a great day and keep them shining