Topic: Chrysler Electronic Ignition System

[patriklprice]

Ok, now I'm confused about the whole 0.5 ohm & 5 ohm resistor thing.
I bought the electronic conversion which includes the distributor, coil,
0.5 ohm single resister & ECU.  Do I now just discard the old 4 prong ballast or do I still need the 5 ohm side?
Question 2
  I still have the single field alternator & wanting b to change to the newer style that has 2 FLD Taps.  If I change the alternator which has a built in voltage regulator,  can I then remove the old voltage regulator by the  ecu?

I have the 1977 Winnebago Chieftain that someone put a 400 engine in.

[DaveVA78Chieftain]

In order to answer you, I need the kit manufacturer and P/N that you purchased.  Otherwise I am just guessing.  Even an online web link would help.

Dave

[patriklprice]

I don't know but I was able to reuse the mechanics new distributor that has a lower honeycomb Chrysler look to it like the original & Im sure he got it from Napa.  I got a duralast ecm from autozone that said it needed the seperate 1.5 ohm ballast resister & I installed that.  The motor acts out of time & missing out but runs &  I think when I took the pick up coil out of the new distributor for testing at the auto store & later re-installed it after they said it checked out good. I think that I didnt set the reluctor gap at 0.008.  Gonna try that if its even adjustable.  Going out now to see what I can do.  Maybe the two distributor wires need reversed. 
The new 5 ohm  4 prong combination & 1.5 ohm ballast resistor is mounted on just the 1.5 ohm side.  The 5 ohm side I didnt hook up at all.  Ive looked at several different schematics but their all confusing & show different ways to wire this circuit.  Your above illustration confuses me because that ecu has 5 pins where as mine is a 4 pins so the 5th pin throws me off
Ready to pull my hair out.

[patriklprice]

What I did for the heck of it is I ordered a new Quality Chrysler replacement kit complete off Amazon but its not here yet.  What I'm doing now is just trying to get it to run so that I can dump it on a real auto electrician mechanic to do all the proper splicing and details.  In the end, he'll have it fixed right & I'll have an extra ecu & distributor.   Its all crappy wired in now just to get it to him.
The tow company wanted $185 just to take it 6 miles so if I can get it running with just the $30 I've got in it then I've saved $170.

[DaveVA78Chieftain]

give me a short bit.  I think I now understand what you have done

[DaveVA78Chieftain]

I think you have the incorrect ECM or you have a conversion that uses a GM ECM conversion.  I need to see a picture of the ECM you have.  Also, is there a Mfg and P/N written on it so I can ID it?

I take it you purchased MOPAR kit # P3690427 off Amazon for the 361-383-400 B Engines.   Here is the manual for that kit: http://www.mymopar.com/downloads/elecignconv.pdf.   That has a 5 pin ECM.

[patriklprice]

The 4 pin ecm that was installed by the mechanic has a number of
 # 0030M08.  It's shiny in color with a gold heat sink but went bad after the wire burned up.  I later got an autozone 4 pin ecm made by Duralast part number CR109.  It works off a 1.5 ohn resister but engine still backfires.
the Proffesional ecm kit I got from Amazon has not arrived yet.
what a mess!

[patriklprice]

Update!  Looks like the alternator had a  fld 1 & fld 2 connection after all but the two wires / female plug to it are missing!  Only the one #6 battery wire is hooked up.  What a mess I have!
I bought some wire, flex tubing & fittings to reinstall the alternator wire back to the voltage regulator.  No wonder why the guy told me to disconnect the battery every night.
  It's all worth it I guess considering the RV was free.