1973 Winniebago Brave, Lost all power to chassis

Started by FluckinNuts, July 30, 2022, 01:28 PM

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Hey ya'll. Firstly thanks to all the good info on here, I would not be where I am today without all the help from you guys!

Anywho... I have been restoring 1973 brave.. I have pretty much had it running in pretty good shape and am planning on a 700 road trip to Louder Than Life in Louisville. I took it to for a pretty long ride last weekend and stopped at a park to let the dog run and when I attempted to restart I lost the ability to engage the starter.... As this has happened once before I just crawled under her and jumped the starter relay, went on my way, got home, and ordered a relay from napa. Today I was going to take it to a buddy's house to give it a little TLC and replace the relay it would not start, no biggy, right? crawl under it and try to jump the relay again and nothing... after a little troubleshooting, I discovered that there is no power ANYWHERE (no lights interior or exterior, no fan, no start, no power at the fuse box, no power running up the steering column). The coach side is fine. My question is where does the power come from to power the chassis (I know the battery)? does the power go to the fuse box then the key or vice versa? Off the isolator solenoid chassis side the only large gauge wire runs to the starter relay and then to the starter. any help would be greatly appreciated 


1969 D22, 2 x 1974 D24 Indians, 1977 27' Itasca


As far as I know there isn't a main fusible link that protects the total powersupply from the battery to the system. But you never know what P.O's make up, so follow the positive cable to the first point. If there is a fusible link you should find it.

Another tip that can help, clean the poles and connectors of your Chassis battery, reconnect and tighten the connectors.

Next to this, check the state of the wiring to the connectors. If they are dull and corroded cut them until you are on clean copper again.

when you've done this you should at least have power to your lights and dome light.

When you still don't have power anywhere it can also be that there is a cutoff switch installed. follow your wiring (both positive and negative). A lot of owners install them out of sight of make it a flipswitch with a relay for obvious reasons. Can it be that you flipped a switch that you didn't know what it's for? Now these switches can also be installed on the negative wire so be sure to check both wires from the battery.

Good luck.


Frank M

My 73 Brave (Dodge) would do that every so often. I would take the engine cover off and reach down and touch the wires going to the relay mounted on the chassis. It would then crank and start. I have replaced that relay and have not had that problem since. Good luck!


Fusible link is at the starter relay.
Also, for all models with the square instrument panel (pre 74 chassis), the amp meter is wired in series with the input power.  The amp meter had a bad habit of failing on all model of Dodges in that era.
Another weak spot (all years/all models) was the half moon connector to the ignition switch at the base of the steering wheel.

73 Dodge Class A Chassis Wiring Diagram


Here is the back of my cluster..73 for the year..So when you are low on battery, all the amps from the alternator goes through the gauge
The best mechanic is the one that can make it run with the least amount of parts!




I never replied, but got it figured out. Thank you for the help everyone!! This is a great site!!