1973 Brave D20 Rear Gas Tank

Started by Frank M, April 28, 2023, 11:26 AM

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Frank M

Anybody ever drop the rear tank on a 1973 Brave (Dodge)?

BigAlsVehicleEmporium

Hi Frank,

I have not but I will be dropping the rear tank on my '72 Brave D20 this week. It looked straightforward while I was under there last but until I do it I just don't know. Are you about to do yours?

Alan
1972 Winnebago Brave D20 - 413 V8, A727, Dana 70
"That leaves only me to blame, 'cause mama tried!"

Frank M

I would like to drop the tank and flush it but not at this time. Waiting for warmer weather. My Brave starts and runs nice for about 5-10 minutes and then starts popping and back firing then dies. Wont restart until next day. It almost seems like it is running out of gas. Thought maybe gas tank was clogged. I changed the filter. Put a new pump on it and still no good. I am going to try running it right from a gas can to see how it runs. I put new points in it and set the timing Rebuilt the carb. New coil. New voltage regulator. Like I said it runs great until it warms up and then it dies. Was also going to try running a jumper wirw from the battery to the coil to bypass ignition switch. Dont know what to do anymore except cry. Lol

Eyez Open

Tanks look like a tough job until one actually drops one. From there it's easy peasy. Lol now putting the neck back on the gas door can be a real Bugger...replacing the old hose is highly advisable. There are steel tanks and aluminum..
Steel tanks are quite heavy be advised.

Use a floor jack and tie down straps.

Check your gaslines closely, rubber rots and will not hold pressure while driving down the road

BigAlsVehicleEmporium

Frank, any way you could put a clear plastic fuel filter between the pump and the carburetor? That is the best way I've found to quickly and reliably determine if the carburetor is getting fuel. Could save a lot of headache and guess work.

If you do, I strongly recommend the Wix 33002. That's the 5/16" version, change the last digit to 1 for 1/4" and to 3 for 3/8". I used no-name Chinese filters for a while but they had the worst failure mode. The little disc of adhesive that pooled inside the filter media during the manufacturing process would break free and float to the outlet of the filter, plugging it. The filter would look full of gas, but the carburetor would be empty. Took forever to figure out and I had it happen on both vehicles I installed them on. Switched to the Wix and no problems since.

Alan
1972 Winnebago Brave D20 - 413 V8, A727, Dana 70
"That leaves only me to blame, 'cause mama tried!"

Frank M

I got her running better than ever. It was a bad dizzy. The dizzy was only about 2 years old. I gutted it and put a Pertronix ignitor and a FlameThrower coil. She fired right up. Set the timing and she purred for about 30 minutes until I shut it off. It started right up the next 3 times I tried. Will see what happens tomorrow

Frank M

Alan did you drop your tank? If yes how was it?

BigAlsVehicleEmporium

I did, and it was easy! Took maybe 20 minutes and most of that was gathering tools. I'm not sure if this rear tank is stock though, because it's a 50 gallon tank and I can't find that as an option in the Winnebago option lists. It also doesn't have a mounting hole for a fuel sending unit so there's no fuel gauge for it.

Anyway, I disconnected the fuel line at the front where it pokes through the frame and the fuel filler & vent hoses on the passenger side. Then I supported it with a floor jack & wood plank and removed the four nuts that held the two long c-channel braces on. That's all that holds it in!

PXL_20230502_151936235.jpg


Once it was lowered as far as it would go, I removed the jack and lowered the driver's side to the floor. This allowed me to slide the tank to the driver's side more and get the fuel filler to clear the exhaust. Then it was out!

PXL_20230502_153127112.jpg

Mine measured 46" x 24" x 10.5", so it's right at 50 gallons. I ordered a weld in plate to attach a fuel sending unit, so I'll be able to know how. much fuel is in it! I'm going to to run that signal through the fuel tank selector switch so I can use the single gauge in the dash to see the fuel level of whichever tank I'm switched to.

PXL_20230502_153112698.jpg 
1972 Winnebago Brave D20 - 413 V8, A727, Dana 70
"That leaves only me to blame, 'cause mama tried!"

Frank M

Nice job. I will have to crawl under mine and see if mine is fastened the same way. So it took you 15 minutes to get your tools together and 5 minutes to drop it! Lol. Takes me 5 minutes to crawl under neath it!  :)clap

Frank M

I got my tank out. It was held in by 6 long bolts that hung from the chassis and went through holes in the tank. 5 came out easy. 6th one had to be cut. I also dropped the 40 gallon tank on the side. I determined I am not putting the rear 80 gallon tank back in.

Frank M


BigAlsVehicleEmporium

Very nice! Interesting tank mount design too. Are those tubes welded in for the bolts to pass through? Why did you decide to not reinstall it?
1972 Winnebago Brave D20 - 413 V8, A727, Dana 70
"That leaves only me to blame, 'cause mama tried!"

Frank M

Yes the tubes go through the tank. I decided not to reinstall it because it need a new sending unit and I do not need 120 gallon capacity. The other 40 gallon tank should suffice. I do not have a generator leeching gas out of the tank so 40 gallons is adequate for travel. I am going to put the tank back in but not hooked up. It will be there if I ever need it.