power steering fluid leak

Started by Adventure, May 12, 2022, 11:30 PM

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Oz

I'm assuming you had a leak and it was sucking air until you tightened that fitting?
1969 D22, 2 x 1974 D24 Indians, 1977 27' Itasca

Adventure

Quote from: eXodus on June 23, 2022, 06:15 AM
I would turn the power steering line around to get the panel to fit. Bleeding the systems is not difficult.
Just raise the front the tires of the floor.  Start the engine and let a helper turn the steering slowly side to side - about 10 times  while you watch and refill the reservoir.

it's pretty difficult to upload pictures here.

I've send you a PM with my email - just answer there and I can get you a few pictures.
Turned the steering line around, elevated the front tires on a block of wood, did the turn slow side to side and refill the reservoir but the pump sounds really bad and there's grinding sound and there's bubbles in the reservoir, tried to continue to bleed but no change, any thoughts? Scratch that, needed to turn full lock and tighten a loose fitting, it's purring like a kitten now.

Oz

I don't see how it's difficult to post attachments.  i??
1969 D22, 2 x 1974 D24 Indians, 1977 27' Itasca

eXodus

I would turn the power steering line around to get the panel to fit. Bleeding the systems is not difficult.
Just raise the front the tires of the floor.  Start the engine and let a helper turn the steering slowly side to side - about 10 times  while you watch and refill the reservoir.

it's pretty difficult to upload pictures here.

I've send you a PM with my email - just answer there and I can get you a few pictures.


Adventure

The section where the wire loom goes from inside to out, what does the transmission shifter cable connect to? Would you agree it's best to switch the lines ends so that the panel can fit rather than cut a hole for the hose to stick out seeing how it won't be protected?

eXodus

the panel goes in first
- the transmission shifter cable second - it will stay inside the wheel well, not on the engine side.
- then the wire loom in the upper most corner. Hanging from those rings.

From which section do you need a picture? 


Adventure

I'm going to attempt to put the panel back with the limited information I have if someone has a photo or diagram now would be a good time to share it. I couldn't do it, looks like I either cut a slot in the panel for the hose connection or switch the connectors, I also can't figure out what goes where, I wish  had taken a photo before it was taken off. I really could use some help here. Thanks

Adventure

Quote from: eXodus on June 10, 2022, 05:54 AM
It's an old RV  could have lost that bolt a long time ago for that piece of metal.

All the wire harness are tied up against the frame rail inside those rings. The metal flex pipe you are showing there is either the transmission shifter or the handbrake for the rear wheels.  When you got the Autopark - or  E-Brake it's likely the shifter.

Focus on getting your current leaks fixed (powersteering and transmission)  the brake lines look ugly but could hold up a few more days. Just don't plan cross country trips on those anymore.
To confirm the harness wires go into the grey ring? I think the mechanic broke off the part that screws in. I might have to rig it with zip ties or something? How vital is this panel? My guess is very considering it protects the gearbox and booster line, speaking of I don't know if the panel can go on with the new booster line sticking out like it is, I'm thinking a  hole may need to be cut to accommodate it, like I said I can try switching the ends but now I will introduce more air into the system and have to bleed it  again. What is that metal clip for, the shifter cable? Does the shifter cable stay inside where I have it attached now?

skloon

Just remember to use a flare wrench when undoing those brake lines- you can get crowsfoot versions of them too

eXodus

It's an old RV  could have lost that bolt a long time ago for that piece of metal.

All the wire harness are tied up against the frame rail inside those rings. The metal flex pipe you are showing there is either the transmission shifter or the handbrake for the rear wheels.  When you got the Autopark - or  E-Brake it's likely the shifter.

Focus on getting your current leaks fixed (powersteering and transmission)  the brake lines look ugly but could hold up a few more days. Just don't plan cross country trips on those anymore.

Adventure

Yes but as you might see picture 3 there is still a tiny leak, could be a fitting on the hose is not tight enough.need to rotate photo  45 degrees right to see the drop of fluid, for some reason it uploaded in that way. I tried to edit the angle but it didn't take. The line they made has only one connector angled the other side straight I chose to connect the straight one to the gearbox in retrospect I think I should have reversed it since I think the hose will keep the panel from going on, I would think the the angled part should go on the gearbox, luckily the fittings are switchable.  As far as break lines go I'm going to like you said get some quotes I'll call around, I doubt a mobile mechanic here will be willing to touch it. On that note, the mechanic who got the panel and line off is too busy so picked up where he left off only thing is I have a very bad before picture of how the panel was on, wiring and what not, tomorrow we are only going a few miles to the beach so I zip tied the 2 electrical conduits and I scre leak attached the metal line as you can see in the pictures, at first I thought that line was the e-break but a quick check determined that's not the case. I tested and all 3 are free of the wheel turning should be ok for a few miles back and forth but I really need to figure out how it goes back any photos or diagrams would be helpful also I only have 5 of the bolts but I counted 6 holes, I think you may have said you had only 5 bolts?

eXodus

Nice that you fixed the powersteering leak! Success.

You can do brake lines in a parkinglot, it's just easier and faster in a shop, where you can get the RV up on to a lift.

Mechanics are paid by the hour,  so in a shop (just picking random numbers here - no idea how long it would really take)
the line replacement would be 4 hours

A mobile mechanic might need 6-8 hours - because can't get to the lines as easy.  You going to pay more the mobile repair.

Brake lines are mostly labor cost - the parts are cheap. Start getting some quotes from different commercial truck places to get them replaced.

Adventure

 I suppose so considering some flex lines cost more, yes they don't look good it's a wonder we were able to get to Texas from Oregon the way they are. Yes it's a real rust bucket and I'm not happy about it. It doesn't help that it's been here on the Gulf for the last year no doubt the salt air is contributing to it.  I don't have the ability to go to a shop right now considering we are living in it full time, we don't go far from the campground although there is always the chance of having to evacuate for a potentially bad storm. I'll just have to pray they hold up a little longer seeing how it's not something that can be done outside the shop. Yes that's why when I order parts I always specify Chevy P30.

eXodus

$80 for the hardline doesn't sound bad.
those brake lines are not looking good.

You really got some rusty RV there. Mine was a 95 and always outside and had only surface rust. Hard Brake lines fairly easy for a shop with the equipment. They are easy to bend with hand tools

Everything is GM standard parts, a P30 RV is just a large Chevy Pickup (2001 and earlier). Metal parts might be bend different on the p30, but the threads are the same as from a similar time era heavy duty truck.

My current one is a later version of the P30 - and I usually search for Chevy Express parts - which 90% of the time are a perfect match. But here it's the other way around - I think the Express Van was designed based on the P30

Oz

1969 D22, 2 x 1974 D24 Indians, 1977 27' Itasca

Adventure

Finally got the power steering line made at a place recommended by Freightliner, cost 80 bucks, since part of it had to be welded, hooked it up no more PS leak, as for the cooler line JB Weld has turned it into  a little leak, gonna try JB Water Weld and see if I can plug up that leak if not I bought some heater hose and clamps and might have to spice it.

Adventure

I had a feeling I was on the right track, yes those two line are very rusty, the timing of the break booster line and the cooler line rusting same time, is not good, luckily I may still have a mechanic to work on these. Yes those lines are hard to get at, as far as compression fitting or  hose and clamps go I would still have to get the part of the line out  do you know if the end fittings are clip type like most Chevy GMC are or is it the screw in type? Back to the Hydroboost hard line, I talked to a local hydro shop they said they could come up with something might take 2 hours for a hard line, how  long did it take the hydraulics shop to make the line? I went to Ace and was able to determine that the fittings are 1/8 and 3/4 standard, so there is the problem with any of of the parts flex hoses they are all metric. On a separate but related note, it's no surprise as you can see in the photo master cylinder lines are very rusty and should be replaced, any experience with that?

eXodus

Yes this is the Transmission fluid oil cooler.
Seems like those lines are gone from all the rust. Get some new ones, when you can afford it.

Getting those out is a bit more challenging.

Definitely pressure is much lower  somewhere in the 100-200PSI range. Not 1300-1600 PSI like the Power Steering systems runs at.
But still not insignificant. 

Those lines you can probably cut somewhere rust free and fit a compression fitting over the line or use some rubber hose with double hose clamps.

Adventure

Quote from: eXodus on May 29, 2022, 05:46 AM
From the transmission there are two hard-lines running on the passenger side frame rail of the engine to the radiator at the front.
Inside the radiator the transmission fluid get cooled.  But when it's not red on a towel it could be another leak from the power steering system. 
Well it appears to be pink on a paper towel but when leaking it's deep red like ATF.

QuoteWhere is your reservoir mounted? Is that round cylinder in the second picture the part where the fluid is coming from?  You are sure it's not just dripping from above? I've never seen a cylinder like this on any of my two P30 I owned.
My PS reservoir is mounted in front it's the old metal cylinder and while it's rusted pretty good it doesn't appear to leaking, replacing it is a headache as it's bolted from the inside of the frame. I think it's dripping from above that round cylinder related to the transmission cooler? It's  most likely another rusted line that went.


QuoteFrom the picture your RV looks pretty rusty,  might be just my perception - since I'm usually dealing with rust free Florida vehicles.

Rust belt vehicles parts can just fail randomly. Might be worth looking into the history of the RV.
Yes it's a rust bucket it sat on the Oregon Coast for almost a year before we bought it and before that it was in Montana so it's seen it's share of salt. We didn't have much affordable options available after losing our home. Not much I can do about that, we don't really move around in it much it's more. a trailer to us than a RV. Edit I pinpointed it to a line that goes from upper radiator to what I believe in the picture is the transmission oil cooler? The lines are not easily replaced if I can find it. That part of  the line is known for rusting a lot. There is a quick fix with hoses and clamps but the line has to severed to do that and so far it's not a big hole, so since I still have some JB Weld left I decided to see if I can at least plug the leak till I can figure out my next move I'll give it 24 hours to cure and see if it worked. It's not as high pressure as the break boost line, so maybe it will hold. Will keep you posted.

Adventure

True but based on the fact that the PS reservoir level isn't going down and the Transmission fluid based on the dipstick level is I'm inclined to believe it has nothing to do with the power steering. I wish it did, at least I wouldn't have a new issue to deal with.

eXodus

From the transmission there are two hard-lines running on the passenger side frame rail of the engine to the radiator at the front.
Inside the radiator the transmission fluid get cooled.  But when it's not red on a towel it could be another leak from the power steering system.

Where is your reservoir mounted? Is that round cylinder in the second picture the part where the fluid is coming from?  You are sure it's not just dripping from above? I've never seen a cylinder like this on any of my two P30 I owned. 

From the picture your RV looks pretty rusty,  might be just my perception - since I'm usually dealing with rust free Florida vehicles.

Rust belt vehicles parts can just fail randomly. Might be worth looking into the history of the RV.

Eyez Open

Like it or not people do use transmission fluid in power steering pumps. Bad ideal but things happen.

Adventure

I see what you are talking about, maybe I would have better luck finding a flex  one with fittings that fit locally. I too was wondering if the leak was ATF, although I don't know where it would be leaking from? I tried to match the leaked fluid to ATF but it doesn't match on a paper towel and the smell doesn't smell like ATF  I checked the recently filled power steering reservoir and it was empty. I checked the ATF transmission dip stick albeit cold and it was full, didn't want to warm up the engine at the risk of losing more fluid. As for it possibly being a after market PS cooler the part doesn't look anything like where it's leaking from. So what could be causing this new leak? worn tramsmission pan gasket? Front transmission pump, could this be related to the drive shaft?

eXodus

You are talking about the return line with the clamp.  It goes from Hydroboost to reservoir.
I'm referring to the line above the blue cylinder on the hydro boost which screws in.  It starts with a hardline - goes rubber and then back to a hardline.
When you follow that one you get to pump usually on the left side of the engine block.

If I see the picture correct - whatever is leaking there is on the right passenger side of the engine block.  You are sure that's power steering fluid?
Looks kinda reddish - transmission fluid ?

The other option is that a former owner installed a power steering fluid cooler, which is is now leaking.

Adventure

Yes you are probably right about the JB weld, good to know there are options. If you are referring to the hose with the shiny clamp coming from the Hydroboost, that's a brand new hose I bought at 0reilly's it's cut to size but I had to buy a whole hose. New development, the good news there is a tiny drop leak now from the hard line the bad news there is a new leak closer to the passenger side leaking profusely power steering fluid, power steering pump? I took some photos of where it is so should be easily identified, Any chance some Blue Devil might save me a replacement?