1988 Chev Super Chief w/ 454 not getting fuel

joejiz · April 20, 2022, 09:57 PM

Hi,

Just learning about RV's. I am a 3rd year mechanic in heading to Vancouver island. The RV is in a field but was drove there 9 months ago. When it is started now the only way for it to run is manually pour gas down the Rochester carburetor . (17085212 3517 HPA )

We have bought a new fuel filter, carb kit , new spark plugs and distributor rotor . Can any one tell me where the fuel filter is located ?

Also any other recommendations to make this run ok?

Oz · April 21, 2022, 06:08 AM

A very typical cause is the in tank fuel pump.
Message Search "no fuel" and select "this board" from the drop down. There's a ton of info on this problem.

eXodus · April 21, 2022, 09:44 AM

Oz is right.

Either tank or engine mounted fuel pump went out.

Eyez Open · April 21, 2022, 11:03 AM

Generally there are two fuel filters, passenger side on the frame rails. One very close to the tank and one about midway..and one in the carb of course. Then there is the rubber fuel line, it degrades...becomes porous and leaks badly. A note here...if the line's are not airtight they will not pull gas out of the tank. Mechanical fuel pumps only topic

You should have a electric pump in the tank that pushes the gas up but one never knows with these old RV's...meaning there is a high probability of dropping the tank.

joejiz · April 23, 2022, 03:28 PM

Ok right on, thanks. Yah crazy to think electric fuel pump in the tank for a carb powered RV!!!

joejiz · May 02, 2022, 03:31 PM

Oh hey, just an update. I see the fuel tank in mid section of RV. Two lines going down to it from filler neck. found manual fuel pump on passenger side of engine. Was able to get started by priming engine until it could run on it's own. I changed out all the plugs ( that was fun ) . I found vacuum lines at rear of carb rotted, plugged it and the next day, she started perfectly.

Springs and weights don't look gummed up at all. rusty springs of course. Would be nice to get 2 new ones.
The paper fuel filter in carb was so dirty.

Still looking for fuel filter canister along frame rail.

Eyez Open · May 02, 2022, 05:49 PM

Be advised they should be there, now someone along the way may well have changed things. Just a few thoughts, gas line's from a fuel tank generally are rubber. Followed by steel line's that run the frame rails, it is where the line's depart the frame rails to either the fuel tank or fuel pump those would be rubber.

I must ask how long is the RV? A gas tank mid frame?

joejiz · May 02, 2022, 06:21 PM

It is starting and running relatively good now. It fires every morning so. Perhaps it was just a long way for fuel to be pushed from tank

I found the in line "in line fuel filter along passenger side" near stairs. It is an ACDELCO. I put the part numbers below for other people.

It appears to 1/2 inlet and outlet.

"AC-DELCO GF509" replacement fuel filters
BALDWIN BF7691
CARQUEST 86299
DONALDSON P551771
FLEETGUARD FF5621
Fram G11278
LUBER-FINER G8219

So last thing to determine is if tank has electric pump, i can't find where the RELAY fuse box is for it?! If it exists on this G30.

It is mid chassis FUEL TANK.

I would post pictures but the web server software only allows hyperlinks to picture.

Eyez Open · May 02, 2022, 07:58 PM

Most of the fuel delivery issues in RV revolve around heat soak/vapor lock issues. Mostly due to emissions standards aka retarded timing and A.I.R. system's. Those two systems really created a lot of heat, alcohol bases fuel boils at 160 degrees. The answer was a pressurized system. As to your RV that I do not know, but well maintained rubber gas line's will not need a pressurized pump. That is a opinion however many swear by electric pumps..

joejiz · May 02, 2022, 11:25 PM

Right, well where the heck is relay box in this RV!!! I found the fuse box under dash but an electric fuel pump should have a relay. parts store indicates relay is $40 and electric pump is $260. If we find either.

Will look tomorrow. Thanks for your help everyone!!!

joejiz · May 08, 2022, 10:46 PM

ok , new cap, rotor , vac advance can, spark plugs and wires, new carb fuel filter, new inline filter down by passenger side of vehicle.

Starts pretty good but choke will not kick off. I verified 12 V at choke housing. When I press down the choke rod manually it does idle around what my ear tells me as 600 rpm. Seems a little low but maybe that is normal?

Also made sure to disconnect all vacuum lines and plug them to rule out vacuum leak.

This choke must be original because it is rivetted on!!!

Anyway I foung this on Amazon and believe this to be correct replacement:
https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B003BNA13Y/?coliid=IKF3XN3Y5MDPQ&colid=29BGUFTM4HN3Y&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

Lastly I wouldn't mind re-timing the engine but one thing at a time.

wonder if you can even put a timing light on balancer and point it down at timing marks. Seems near impossible to even access to do that with the rad and stuff in the way!

Eyez Open · May 08, 2022, 11:34 PM

No guess work at Cliff's, they gladly take phone calls perhaps the best in the carb business. As to the timing tab..p32 chassis have timing tabs under the rv. Crawl under to the harmonic balancer look up on the drivers side..Right in front of your face if it's there, and you use the number 5 plug wire to set the timing...Not number 1 number 5 if the timing tab is under the RV.

https://cliffshighperformance.com/product/choke-divorced-thermostats