Author Topic: Dodge 360-3 restoration  (Read 1931 times)

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Offline Mlw

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  • I own a: Winnebago
  • Year: 1979
  • Model: Minnie Winnie W424RH
  • Chassis: Dodge MB400
  • Engine: 360-3 4 BBL
Re: Dodge 360-3 restoration
« Reply #25 on: June 27, 2022, 03:39 PM »
Dave,

Again, many thanks for your help and the copy's

The engine is a 360, it's stated on the block, but also in the brochure and the manuals but I'm glad you are acknowledging my confusion.

The thing is, I measured the pistons today, also with a digital caliper and some seem like 1 to max 3/1000's of an inch larger than the Cylinder wall.

That can be off reading, because I don't have a micrometer, at the moment but It would explain why there are scratches in the form of the piston skirts in the corresponding cylinders and the skirts are scratched as well. What you see below is a bottom up picture of Cylinder 6



However I am looking if I can lent or rent one somewhere, because I want to be absolutely sure but the main reason I'm doing this is to see if things are in spec and they seem to be.




Offline DaveVA78Chieftain

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  • Year: 1978
  • Model: Chieftain
  • Chassis: Dodge M400
  • Engine: 440-3
Re: Dodge 360-3 restoration
« Reply #26 on: June 28, 2022, 01:03 AM »
Quote
The thing is, I measured the pistons today, also with a digital caliper and some seem like 1 to max 3/1000's of an inch larger than the Cylinder wall.

Unless you have a very expensive digital caliper I simply suspect the accuracy of it is questionable for this sort of measurement.

Based on the damage your seeing on the block (piston replaced, cylinder wall pieces broken off, etc.), I would say the scratches and such were due to the engine was ran low on oil at some point such that it threw a rod.  Lack of oil film on cylinder wall resulted in lots of scratching.

Offline Mlw

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  • Year: 1979
  • Model: Minnie Winnie W424RH
  • Chassis: Dodge MB400
  • Engine: 360-3 4 BBL
Re: Dodge 360-3 restoration
« Reply #27 on: June 28, 2022, 11:16 AM »
I question them myself too, Dave. that's why I try to find a micrometer, or i would have to buy a China Junk one of €50,= to use only one time. It's incredibly frustrating that you just can't find the right tools here in the Netherlands to do the job.

You are absolutely right about the oil starvation. There is a new oil pump placed by the previous idiot and I found parts of the old one in the oilpan.

I noticed the oilstarvation in the passenger side valve case when I removed the valve cover and that was also the reason I took the engine apart, and there we go.

ALL the cylinders on the passengerside show the same marks, with number six as the worst obviously because of the reasons you mention.

SO if I have to buy new pistons I will, but then i would need the right measurements of the cylinders and so I keep running around in circles.


We'll get there eventually. But it's going to take some time, which is a shame because when it keeps going like this it will be next year before I finally can go on a trip with Betsy.

Online Eyez Open

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  • Year: 1983
  • Model: Imperial 33
  • Chassis: P30
  • Engine: 454
Re: Dodge 360-3 restoration
« Reply #28 on: June 28, 2022, 05:44 PM »
Boy that's a tough spot to be in...you might have a builder/machinist look at that block...It is in bad shape. then there is your crank.

Offline TerryH

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  • Year: 1992
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Re: Dodge 360-3 restoration
« Reply #29 on: June 29, 2022, 12:33 AM »
This may sound like a 'Devil's Advocate' reply, but are you quite certain that pistons and rings are enough? You may want to consider, as well, a crank grind, all new crank bearings, new cam and bearings, rebuilding the heads and a good check of the timing chain for possible stretching. Likely, I missed a few things - I am not a Dodge person.
I'd hate for you to go to all this work and then have to pull and strip the engine again.
Seems to me that you are at the point of either a total rebuild (assuming the block is within rebuild specs) or finding a known good replacement engine.
My thoughts only.
The only thing necessary for the triumph of evil is for good men to do nothing.
   Edmund Burke

Offline Mlw

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  • Year: 1979
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  • Chassis: Dodge MB400
  • Engine: 360-3 4 BBL
Re: Dodge 360-3 restoration
« Reply #30 on: June 30, 2022, 07:38 AM »
@ Eyes open, I did. The block is looked at by a retired mechanic who worked on American engines in his adult life. The damage done is out of range of the cylinderrun so that's a plus, but I certainly hear what you are saying.

The thing is, I took some basic steps when I bought the Motorhome. As It was sold as a fixer upper I couldn't drive it.

So I checked the fluids, they were clean as a whistle and topped off. I felt the engine if it was completely cold and it was. How it starts and runs you saw yourself in another video  I made last winter.

Starting up the beast on a cold wintermorning

Furthermore compression is OK except one but still within specification limits. The strange thing is that the engine was not always galloping, even with a broken pistonring in Cylinder 5 and following specs


 Up 4.000 (cylinder with low compression)
      Mh 3.994
      Ml 3.994
      Lo 3.994

The Chassis has received a complete anti corrosion treatment at one point, and the interior was pretty decent at first glance, and that's why I bought here. This RV has spend her intire life traveling from the Bavarian mountains (south of Germany. It seems to be pretty clear what happened. The oil pump failed, probably during a climb, one of the piston rods broke off doing minor damage (says the retired mechanic) to the  cylinders above. I'll try to make good pictures of all if them next week.

@ Terry
For me you are not sounding the devils advocate. If I would have lived in America I would have seriously consider putting another block in there. But I live in Europe and i guess I'm just not ready to put a 4 or (when in luck) 6 cylinder diesel in there. Call me stupid, but i Like the sound of a V8 and whatever you put in there, that's the sound you will hear as long as you drive it  ;)

The biggest problem I'm facing is that the Previous moron was a digger, digging into things normal users never touch and completely destroying them because of his Redneck way of repairing things multiplied by a thousand. https://www.classicwinnebagos.com/forum/index.php?topic=16309.0

As for your advise:
All the bearings are going to be replaced, as is the timing chain:
https://rumble.com/v148uq8-how-your-timing-chain-shouldnt-be-moving..html?mref=6zof&mrefc=4

Pictures do weird things sometimes. The retired mechanic at the hobby garage who worked on American vehicles most of his said never to have seen a camshaft looking this well considering the miles.

As for the heads, I replaced all the valve seals. With this I removed the valves, cleaned them up and checking if they were straight, which they were, even cylinder 6


Next to check if the heads are straight as is the block. The crank i Will check too.