Jack up your RV

Started by Mlw, December 29, 2021, 11:30 PM

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As we are now in a complete lockdown in the Netherlands I now have to much time to kill  ;)
I am sitting at work in an empty hotel at the moment like I'm in the movie "the Stand".  (and hearing all kind of noises too)  :D :D :D ??? ??? ???

I am strolling the internet for practical "on the road info". I looked for the coming question on the Forum but couldn't find the answer.

"How do you jack up your RV when you are on the road and you blow a tire???"

I did jack up the RV a few months ago to check the tires and pressure but couldn't find a decent point to jack up the RV.
I first tried the connection points of the blades, but the only thing happening was the RV hanging over but the tires stayed firmly on the ground.

After a few calls around, a mechanic who actually have a few Dodge RV's in maintenance advised me to jack up the RV at the connection points of the shocks which are welded on the Axle. After asking him if he dare to give this in writing an he acknowledged, I tried it and did manage to lift the RV, but still feeling very uncomfortable doing it and placing an overkill of jack-stands under the chassis beams first and then the axle.

It did work but now I'm really wondering how I'm ever going to pull this off while on the road.

I had to use a 6 LBS jack to lift up ONE side of the RV with a 118 inch long pole on it which I could move up and down for about 8 inches and using my weight of 50 LBS to lift the RV when the weight kicked in and it is now without any inventory.
Imagine when it is fully loaded up. ???

Is there anybody out there with experience?


On mine, which is a 72 brave, I found it necessary to first jack up the frame enough to clear the tire and wheel assembly, then jackstand or block at the frame, then jack under the axle just enough to get the tire off the ground.


If you're on the road, the best thing is a road service. They have the equipment to replace your tire quickly (once they get there) and safely.
Rick and Tracy Ellerbeck



Perhaps still in the Canada or the USA. In Europe road service with this kind of things pretty much is:

1. is there something wrong with your subscription to road service so I don't have to do the job?
2. Everything OK? Let's find another way that I don't have to do the job myself. when there isn't you are often much better off when you do it yourself with the right equipment (exceptions excluded).

so better safe then sorry, lets have the right equipment so I can do this myself.


Thanks man, you are telling me I thought in the right direction, but going wrong in the finesses. Awesome.  :)ThmbUp

And I just like to be self sustaining because when western society keeps going in the direction we're heading right now, there is a overgrown chance I will step into Betsy and drive as far away from the lunacy as possible.  N:(

Therefore I was already thinking about buying a compressor.

Next to buy will be something like this


I do have a generator on board so no worries there.

But of course, when somebody has even better suggestions, I'm all ears  :)


I'll second what A0Brodie said.  I used a 20 ton bottle Jack placed on stacked, 2"x 8"x8" wood blocks to lift under the frame first, then a scissors Jack to raise the axle.

Safety note:  use chock blocks in front and back of one set of rear wheels and one front wheel.
1969 D22, 2 x 1974 D24 Indians, 1977 27' Itasca


On the road I carry a 12ton bottle jack and lift right under the wheel on the axel.

It's sketchy and it's potential dangerous but, hey so far in 20 years of driving I need to do it twice.

Pick a somewhat level spot to pull over, place the jack under the axel, start lifting a bit. Open the lug nuts.  Finish lifting the wheel of the ground.

Remove the wheel and place it behind the jack under the axle!  In case the whole thing comes.crashing down it only.falls on the already blown tire.

Get the spare and mount it.


QuoteSafety note:  use chock blocks in front and back of one set of rear wheels and one front wheel.

That goes without saying. Excellent point.

Bottle jacks I will carry too for I have no leveler system on the RV.


So Finally the lockdown is mellowed (but not ended) so last week I had the chance to visit Betsy again. I must say she held up good in the month I couldn't visit her, and now I finally have the possibility to answer Exodus.

With Betsy it is not possible to put the jack directly on the axle. Right behind the wheel the blades are connected to the axle. Maybe I'm overcautious but putting the full weight of the RV on just the threads... N:(

The space between the connection of the blades and the connection of the shocks is not enough to put a jack in between, so the connection of the shocks is what I've used to lift the axle. It went OK, but I wouldn't dare using your technique lifting the RV with just one jack on the RV.

Now next to that i could put the jack underneath the axle but then the weight of the differential comes in too adding a considerable amount of weight to lift. As you then are allready deep under the RV hitching the RV with just manpower becomes quite the challenge. Betsy just has heavy bones  :D


When the RV is to heavy, you need a stronger jack.  I don't know what a "6lbs jack" is,  not familiar with the term and capability. 

The 12 ton jack - has no issue lifting the whole back of the RV.  What does the rear weight?  less then 5 tons.  If you add 200kg for the differential - it doesn't really matter. That's less then 5% added weight.    (1 ton = 1000kg = 2200lbs)

The ram of the Jack fits nicely between those 4 screws where the leaf spring blades attach to the blade. Between the screws it also has little ability to slide out.

For at home use - I have 2x 12 ton jacks and a 4 Ton floor jack and a bunch of jack stands. But your question was for on the road -  and there the 12 ton short profile- saves the day.


6 LBS is a Typo it needed to be 6000 LBS or 3 tons.

I'm going to do exactly what you told me, so thanks for the advise. I can use the jacks for leveling as well as i don't have a levelling system (for now).


sounds good!

Make sure you get a jack which has enough lift range to lift a flat tire of the ground.  (about the height of the sidewall)

I needed to find a happy medium of a jack which fits under the axle and has enough lift.  Because when you got a blow out - that RV sits on the Rim of the metal.


So here's the delma. If you jack on the spring. What will happen is you'll jack the wheel up into the wheel well. You'll get the tire off the ground, you'll be able to get the bolts off but you wont be able to get the wheel out from under the wheel well. So you have to jack it up on the frame. Along with the jack. Grab yourself 4 pieces of 8x8's or 6x6's maybe a foot and a half long to put your bottle jack on or if you have a floor jack put them on top of the floor Jack. What ever you do. Make sure you have some real wood block to put under the frame. I'm not a real fan of jack stands. There ok. There just not on my favourit list. Hope this adds to the conversation. Hm?



That's another thing that can happen. As I didn't dare to jack up via the U bends so everything just sits on the threads I tried it on the other side. the only thing happening was the coach hanging over, it was quite the sight  :D :D :D

Well let's hope the tips given Will help future RV-ers with the same question.  :)clap


I used a Powerlift 3 ton 'All in One' jack when I did the front airbags. I lifted via the fram right behind the wheel where it's parallel to the ground. I sat the jack on a couple of 12x12x2in wood blocks given I was in a gravel lot. It worked out great. The jack has quite a bit of lift.

1994 Fleetwood Southwind Storm 28ft
P30 454 TBI w/4L80E VIN#1GBJP37N4R3314754
78,XXX US as of 8/2/23