Burning human waste?

toddabney · August 31, 2009, 12:52 PM

Sent: 9/28/2008

well that says it all!!!i read in one of the many manuals about 1970''s Winnebago's I have been studying. the story talked of using the exhaust manifold and pipes to burn "waste". I can't believe it but I know I read about this novel device. Has anyone heard of this? I have been trying to find the book so I can give more pictures. The trouble shooting part of it said "you will smell a bad odor coming from the tail pipe if it is not working right"....yea, right....Ii am not making this up. Now that I opened my mouth about this I will find the story (I hope)

happy trails,

todd

ontheroadagain · August 31, 2009, 12:53 PM

Sent: 9/28/2008

my owners manual has a section on it, but mine was not equipped with it ,but with 12gal. gray and 12gal.black tanks it would be a nice option rather than having to find dump stations

thebluesliner · August 31, 2009, 12:54 PM

Sent: 9/28/2008 9:10 PM

My EX Father in law installed/upgraded to one of these things in the outhouse at the cottage a number of years ago. All I can remember is when you lowered the cover/lid down that's when it commenced to burn. He didn't have it too many years and upgraded to a flushable one we all have at home. I can remember some people saying that it did stink a bit if the wind was blowing the right way.

toddabney · August 31, 2009, 12:56 PM

Sent: 9/28/2008

Well, thank you. Now I know I wasn't dreaming that thing up. I also remember that it didn't work well in the rain or really cold weather. So....there you have it folks. Thanks again,

todd

sharkfot · August 31, 2009, 12:59 PM

Sent: 9/29/2008

YES!! I used to have a 1973 MOBILUX (built in Evergreen, Alabama) that had the Thermasans system built in to the waste tank! The idea was to use the heat from the exhaust manifold to burn the waste in the tank and include it in the exhaust as vapor. (at least I think that was the idea) It actually worked, although it was kinda slow. It might take 8 hours of highway driving to burn even part of the bulk in the tank, and it did have a slight odor . . .

Ben III
Lakeland, FL
1984 Elandan

Lefty · August 31, 2009, 01:00 PM

Sent: 9/30/2008

I feel for the poor guy at the muffler shop who gets to replace that muffler... I think I'd call in sick that day if it was me! lol!

ClydesdaleKevin · August 31, 2009, 01:01 PM

Sent: 10/2/2008

In 1977, there was a propane fired poop-incinerator that was an available option for our Itasca (we have all the original paperwork for Excalibur)...That is basically what it was: In the back of the rig, this propane fired incinerator would slowly burn all the solids to ash, and then sprinkle the ash out behind you on the highway. According to the paperwork, it would only function at speeds above 45 MPH. There was also a hose that carried all the noxious gases to your intake manifold, where they would be burned by the engine so you wouldn't smell like poop driving down the road...lol!

Kev

toddabney · August 31, 2009, 01:02 PM

Sent: 10/3/2008

very cool!!!!now your thinking.....you know maybe it would be a better way to "go"......happy trails,

todd

BFlath · April 21, 2021, 09:35 AM

I know this tread is somewhat concluded but I thought this might be a good place to ask. Im trying to diy a Thermasan. seeing as how the parts are virtually unfindable these days. so far ive cobbled enough info to put a parts list together. the entire system is comprised of a wiper motor three sensors and a small indicator/control panel. Ie even found the rate of flow for the pump. im good with electronics and the sensors will be easy to install and set up with the indicator panel. my question is whats the best way to figure out gph out of a pump? I have to regulate the wiper motor down to about 2-5 gph so that it doesnt overwhelm the exhaust

eXodus · April 24, 2021, 04:02 PM

There are exhaust fluid pumps

At which spot of the exhaust are you going to inject that? I'm not sure if would do the catalytic converter any good. But it's nice and hot before that one.
What are the sensors doing? Speed? RPM? Temperature?

I looked into a system like this years ago. You need fairly high RPM to produce enough heat and airflow to really kill all bacteria and make it sterile.
Speed is not that important. You can go up a mountain pass at 20mph while revving at 5000rpm - that would still do the trick.

While when you idling downhill at 60s would result in sewage dripping out the exhaust.

You could probably rig a micro controller and make it proportional to engine RPM with a Flag for Speed.

IF TEMP > 300F
IF Speed >45mph
IF RPM > 2000 RPM
PUMP = 2 GPH
IF RPM > 3000 RPM
PUMP = 3 GPH
IF RPM > 4000 RPM
PUMP = 4 GPH
IF RPM > 5000 RPM
PUMP = 5 GPH

something along those lines. You would have to need to verify each speed with your engine.

tmsnyder · April 24, 2021, 09:44 PM

Quote from: BFlath on April 21, 2021, 09:35 AM
I know this tread is somewhat concluded but I thought this might be a good place to ask. Im trying to diy a Thermasan. seeing as how the parts are virtually unfindable these days. so far ive cobbled enough info to put a parts list together. the entire system is comprised of a wiper motor three sensors and a small indicator/control panel. Ie even found the rate of flow for the pump. im good with electronics and the sensors will be easy to install and set up with the indicator panel. my question is whats the best way to figure out gph out of a pump? I have to regulate the wiper motor down to about 2-5 gph so that it doesnt overwhelm the exhaust

LOL I was just thinking about putting together a DIY Thermasan the other day

For flowrate, I would think that one would want to empty the black water tank during a decent length drive, maybe 6 hours? I have a 30 gallon tank. So I was thinking along the lines of 5 gal/hr.

The originals used a peristaltic pump, the photo I saw sure did look like a cole parmer masterflex pump.

In the tank, I believe they used a screen to prevent large 'particles' from entering the system.

The waste was injected in the hot part of the exhaust just after the engine exhaust manifold.

There is a person active in the GMC motorhome community that actually worked on the system as one of the engineers. If you PM me I'll give you his name.

eXodus · April 25, 2021, 06:45 AM

Behind the exhaust manifold - that's interesting information. Wonder if you can just put in an adapter where the EGR comes in....

Yeah, EGR, on "modern" after mid 80s- engines the exhaust gets recycled - That would be a problem if you overflow the exhaust and get to much water into the air intake. A little water in the intake - is no problem - performance engines do that all the time.

More ideas are streaming in - isn't the EGR valve is regulated depending on engine RPM? - It's open on low RPM and closed on higher. Pretty much the inverse behavior we need for the system. Would need to tap into this signal (either vacuum or electric) - getting a valve which behaves opposite - normally closed instead of normal open.
Just switch the pins around on a EGR valve? so it would run backwards...

I was thinking about a Macerator Pump for like boats. - Further the system needs a check-valve / regulator of some sorts. Otherwise you are blowing up your sewer tank with exhaust

Bolting it to the EGR port would make development so much easier.

Edit:
you can buy headers with EGR ports on both sides - the intake EGR is only attaching to one of them - the other one is capped of.
That would be fairly easy way of attaching a waste injector

tmsnyder · April 25, 2021, 11:45 PM

It didn't go in the engine at all, there was a port installed in the exhaust pipe. The system had a clamp on adapter, drill a hole in the exhaust pipe and clamp on the adapter and the wastewater would be injected into the hot exhaust gas stream.