1972 Chieftain w/413 distributor conversion kit.

Started by MBaz, May 18, 2020, 06:56 PM

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MBaz

Hello, has anyone used a distributor conversion kit on their 413?
MBaz ââ,¬Å"72ââ,¬Â

Rickf1985

Dave is the big time Dodge guru so he will be the best to answer your question but I think we need a little more info. What kind of conversion are you talking about? points to electronic? Dodge to Gm HEI?

ClydesdaleKevin

Quote from: MBaz on May 18, 2020, 06:56 PM
Hello, has anyone used a distributor conversion kit on their 413?

If you do decide to switch over your points ignition system to electronic ignition and change out your distributor...SAVE ALL YOUR OLD PARTS!  In the very unlikely event of an EMP strike or just an EMP from the sun, the old points ignition will still work.  Always better to be safe than sorry.

Kev
Kev and Patti, the furry kids, our 1981 Ford F-100 Custom tow vehicle, and our 1995 Itasca Suncruiser Diesel Pusher.

MBaz

MBaz ââ,¬Å"72ââ,¬Â

DaveVA78Chieftain

As far as I know that JEGs kit should work OK.  It appears to convert from a Dodge points design to a Dodge Electronic Ignition design.  I would have to see the wiring diagram for the Jegs kit to say for sure. 
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Rickf1985

Looks like everything right off the parts shelf for a later electronic Dodge ignition but the price is pretty good for all included and ready to bolt on.

MBaz

This is the wiring diagram that came with the kit. Now I am wondering which wire on my old resistor is run and which is start? Also I have been looking at the diagrams post here and on Daveââ,¬â,,¢s site and it shows a 4 post resistor. Mine only has a 2 post.
MBaz ââ,¬Å"72ââ,¬Â

Rickf1985

Simple check to see which wire is which, unplug the wires and turn on the ignition switch to the run position. The wire with power will be the run wire. The other wire should not have any power. If you hold the key to the start position that other wire should have power only while the key is in start. Now hook them up according to the wiring diagram that came with the unit, how they were hooked up before makes no difference. This is a different setup.

DaveVA78Chieftain

Do not worry about the having to use the 4 prong ballast resistor with that conversion ECU.  The  2 prong ballast will work just fine.  The 2 pink wires on the old points based ballast resistor are the coil and START wires.  The red wire (other end of old ballast resistor) is B+ from the ignition switch.  I would use the old wiring, especially the red (RUN) one, as it also provides 12VDC to the Altenator Regulator.  During START, the pink wire bypasses the Ballast Resistor in order to apply a full 12VDC to the coil.  In RUN, the 12VDC from the red wire is reduced by the Ballast Resistor before it is applied to the coil.  The new ECU in conjunction with the magnetic pick coil in the new distributor perform the function the points did.
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Hemi76

I have a 1972 brave 413-1 do I use the same  distributer that you do

DaveVA78Chieftain

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Blakradish

I have a'71 Indian that I put an "all in one" distributer on.
I'd I remember correctly I had an issue with fitting because dodge uses a slot type connector. I easily resolved the issue once I told my mechanic that and demanded he get on this if he wanted my business.
Good luck, I'll look back at my old posts and try and link you to the help this forum gave me.

Blakradish

It's the exact conversation I used on my 71 Indian 413.
I think the the only issue was my mechanic wasn't a dodge mopar guy and didn't realize it was a slot fitting Into the engine.