Replacing more parts...

Started by tarifachris, May 29, 2020, 02:56 AM

Previous topic - Next topic

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

tarifachris

Better picture of the short rear brake hose and bleeder screw:


If you have a tag axle from MORryde you can only slide the securing plate from the brake saddle outboard! Not enough room to drive it inboard...


Greased all zerk fittings - so much easier with 10000 psi...


On the 1988 P30 you will have 10 grease zerks on the driver side, 8 on the passenger side and 4 on the drive shafts:





Reego

Lot of good info here!  :)ThmbUp  I'm pretty much doing the same on mine but I'm also replacing brakes, calipers, rotors, drums shoes, wheel cylinders, brake master cylinder and rubber hose all around.

tarifachris


SUCCESS!
Made finally a test drive today... 105 F outside temperature. Drove thru the city to the next freeway - 205 F coolant temp and when I accelerated on the freeway ramp uphill it went to 210 F. At 210 F the Hayden fan clutch 2797 engages. Actually the fan clutch was only 2 times for a short duration engaged. The Edelbrock water pump uses higher pressure and pumps 20 % more coolant fluid with equal pressure on both sides.

Brakes work great and no squeal. 1/3 shorter brake distance! I use the same brake fluid in my car and it improved the braking as well.
All new shocks and new front airbags improved the ride and handling. Until now zero vibration at any speed (I had before between 55 and 58 mph vibrations) - my guess is the centramatic dynamic wheel balancer are working.
Engine accelerated so much better - I am pretty sure the charcoal filter inside the airfilter box chocked the engine (it occupied 90% of the airflow!).
Last year I left my outside temp sensor above the battery and it showed at idle 140 F heat exactly where the oem air inlet is - no there is not the same temp like outside! That is why I installed the cold air intake system.



The new installed power steering pump cooler works. You can barely touch the cooler - it is that hot! I think for heavy RV's like mine it is a must. It was not the original power steering pump which I replaced...

I don't think you need all the cooling like me if you live farther north. But if you ever drive in the summer months from Phoenix to Palm Springs or Phoenix to San Antonio or Las Vegas, you will understand what I did.
The next days I will travel 1300 miles and will report back...

Rickf1985

Good luck and have a safe trip, you definitely prepared well for it.

tarifachris

Everything went fine... Passed only 2 vehicles on the whole trip, even I drove between 60-63 mph. I drove 95% with cruise control - so quite relaxing.
The biggest improvement are my LED headlights. They are bright - that I like now to drive in the night... Before there were only 2 headlights on and now all 4 headlights are working...

My temp gauges were bobbing, so I added more ground wires and it fixed it... What a mess of cables!

My newly improved cooling system worked great! The last 900 miles the temp stayed at 202 F, the fan clutch engaged only on for 4-5 minutes total and that was on 7% grades.

The revised braking system worked great as well. It is much safer now...
The suspension and handling was great, but I had to lower the front air bag pressure. I drove the first 670 miles with 75 psi and it felt super stable. The problems came the last 630 miles when I drove in 4 thunderstorms and I had the whole time 20 mph cross/headwind. I had to lower it to 65 psi and it made a huge difference in the windy conditions. Much more stable...
The first 670 miles I averaged 7.3 mpg, but the last 630 miles with the cross/headwind it went down to 5.9 mpg. So I averaged only 6.6 mpg which is actually better then last years 6.2 mpg. If you flat tow your car and go down the road with 19.000 GCWR I think even newer RV's will not do a lot better.

With the current fuel prices I enjoy traveling much more! It is like giving the vintage RV's a second life. Where I am right now the price for regular fuel is 1.69$ the gallon!







Rickf1985

Glad all went well. The boat connector electrical connectors are a major contributor of electrical problems. I suggest you get rid of them and replace them with either soldered connections or weatherpac connectors.

tmsnyder

Those Imperials are beautiful, big units.   I had an AlumaLite 31, and yes the wiring was mess apparently from the factory!


Mlw

Quote from: Rickf1985 on June 20, 2020, 03:39 PM
Glad all went well. The boat connector electrical connectors are a major contributor of electrical problems. I suggest you get rid of them and replace them with either soldered connections or weatherpac connectors.

I just saw this post today but do you mean something like this???   W%
https://www.classicwinnebagos.com/forum/index.php?topic=16254.0

I really was in shock when i saw the picture. I was completely in love with the awesome job and this beautiful rig. It probably costed a small fortune and lots of labour, and then suddenly this.

Your electrical system controls almost anything you use in your rig. Adding ground wiring to your electrical system because of bobbing meters is bypassing your problem, not fixing it, unless it is a commonly known fact from factory off.