Mike's 1973 D22 Complete tear out. From the Roof down!

Started by RockwoodMike, September 25, 2019, 11:43 PM

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RockwoodMike

Here is my problem right now...I don't have any room!! :laugh:

You need a very spacious area to lay the parts all out..

Right now I have all the transmission parts laid across the table..with the rocker arms getting in the way!!

I made the mistake of tearing the transmission apart too fast..And I didn't take very many pictures..So I am checking and double checking how everything is suppose to be..

When I get the trans back together, that will free up space for the carb..

One part at a time..till I am sure it is right..

Below the table top is all the sheet metal and assorted parts for the engine..It is the only spot I could find :laugh:
The best mechanic is the one that can make it run with the least amount of parts!

Eyez Open

Time for new build area maybe? Your build is enormous,tranny's engines structures...go big or go home? Lol your firmly planted there..great work and most of all great attitude!

RockwoodMike

Lets get some done on the box of this thing..the front face and dash area..lets rip it apart some more!!

Pictures show the front area..That eyebrow structure is what I'm going for...
The best mechanic is the one that can make it run with the least amount of parts!

RockwoodMike

Getting it off was not hard,,Will use it as a template to create a new piece..This front area is rotted at the edges..
The best mechanic is the one that can make it run with the least amount of parts!

RockwoodMike

Pic 1..After stripping the face clean and sanded down..plenty of rust to sand through..

Pic 2..First layer of primer..Another layer tomorrow and then a layer of satin black.
The best mechanic is the one that can make it run with the least amount of parts!

LJ-TJ

 :)clap I can't help but sit here and smile every time I log on to check in on your progress. You are absolutely amazing Sir. Many of us are living Vicariously through you and your project wishing we had not only had your patents but your talents. Hang in there and keep up the excellent work. We all are learn tons of stuff complements of your efforts.

RockwoodMike

Hi LJ-TJ..

I have come a long ways on this..But looking at everything, I have a long ways to go!!

here is the front with the Rustolium Satin black..Just rolled it on with a short nap 6 inch roller..Being oil base with the primer and top coat, it takes a couple of days to dry enough to work it..

This Rustolium is a good paint for this.
The best mechanic is the one that can make it run with the least amount of parts!

RockwoodMike

Since it was raining, I looked into the front wheel bearing hubs..Here is a list of the bearings...

Front wheel bearings

Outer race(small) Timken 14274

Outer Bearing (small) Timken 14116

Inner Race (Large) Timken 25520

Inner Bearing (Large) Timken 25590

Wheel seal Timken 3210

Easy enough to find new ones on Rock Auto and Ebay..

I ordered everything up..Get here when they get here!!

Picture show everything needing to be cleaned up :P
The best mechanic is the one that can make it run with the least amount of parts!

Eyez Open

Whoa that's a heavy duty setup, a dodge chassis?

RockwoodMike

Quote from: Eyez Open on March 29, 2024, 02:28 PMWhoa that's a heavy duty setup, a dodge chassis?

My mistake on the greasy bearing hub,,That picture is the rear bearing hub..The individual bearings are from the front bearing hub
The best mechanic is the one that can make it run with the least amount of parts!

RockwoodMike

This is a picture of the 2 FRONT hubs..All blasted and then primed with the Rustolium oil based primer..Satin black next

That display of bearings in the previous post is where they came from..The front..
The best mechanic is the one that can make it run with the least amount of parts!

RockwoodMike

Before and After..I didn't install the self adjuster system..That makes me responsible to adjust the brakes and I will be sure that the adjustment is right..
Also less things to cut loose like it did before..

This is the right rear..
The best mechanic is the one that can make it run with the least amount of parts!

RockwoodMike

Some more parts cleaning and blasting..This is where it takes so much time..

Before and after pictures..This is the rear bearing hub
The best mechanic is the one that can make it run with the least amount of parts!

RockwoodMike

Pic 1..Front bracket for the brake caliper and the dust shield..Filthy!!

Pic 2..After the sand blasting..Hung up for the powder coating..Satin black.

Pic 3..In the oven..395 for one hour..

The best mechanic is the one that can make it run with the least amount of parts!

RockwoodMike

Powder coating is the ultimate finish..When you pull it out of the oven, it is done..No drying time..

Just need to let it cool down..
The best mechanic is the one that can make it run with the least amount of parts!

RockwoodMike

before and after..Front right caliper mount..
The best mechanic is the one that can make it run with the least amount of parts!

RockwoodMike

Just sandblasting the disc brakes..

You can't get these discs in my size..Gotta make these work..They are full thickness. Never been cut before..
The best mechanic is the one that can make it run with the least amount of parts!

RockwoodMike

I bought some rebuilt calipers for this..They are China rebuilds..That is all there is available..

Soooo...

I am going to see if my original calipers are rebuildable..

They were wet inside and getting the pistons to pop out with compressed air worked well..

Will give them a good sand blast..The pistons are steel and look great..

It is the bores that need a good look at..will see about it tomorrow
The best mechanic is the one that can make it run with the least amount of parts!

RockwoodMike

The bore just guides the piston..it does not seal the piston..The rubber square cut ring does..

Bought the seal kit from RockAuto..
The best mechanic is the one that can make it run with the least amount of parts!

RockwoodMike

Still working on the brakes..The emergency parking brake system..

You have 3 cables involved..Left rear..right rear..and the main cable that goes to the handle inside the cab (very long)..

Looking at the parts catalog, it gives part numbers for the L-R cables..

Left rear..3491 013

Right rear..3497 997

Looking on line this is what I found...
The best mechanic is the one that can make it run with the least amount of parts!

RockwoodMike

Pic 1..Just searching on Ebay , I punched in the number for the Left rear..And somebody had a NOS for sale...BAM!! Sold..

Pic 2..I punched in the number for the right rear..NOS again!! BAM!! sold again..
But when I got this cable..It was about 2 feet short in comparison to the original..Very disappointed! 

The Right rear cable from Ebay is on the top in the picture..Original cable in the middle..You can see the damage it has..I could have used it..But I would rather replace it..

Research time and I found this cable on RockAuto..Show on the bottom of the 3 cables..

It is about 3 inches to long..But it is better than being to short...

(That is what she said :rolleyes: )

So I think I am good to go..Be working on it today..


The best mechanic is the one that can make it run with the least amount of parts!

RockwoodMike

I worked on the roof today..The front "eyebrow" area..

Making a tapered roof to transition to a flat panel eyebrow piece..

3 trial and errors..successful on the 4th..

Pic 1..The eyebrow is made in 4 section..just working on the top first section..I tried to bend plywood to flex to the contour I needed..And the plywood wasn't having anything to do with it..
So first piece is just a flat plywood, spanning the full width of the motorhome..The bottom matches the inside of the roof rafters that are tapered on the top edge of the rafters..

Pic 2 ..I made these individual triangles..11 of them..Thick in the middle tapering to thinner out towards the edge..The back edge of the pieces are lower than the finish plywood already installed..I believe the plywood is 3/8 thick that was done about 3 years ago..Yea I have been on this for a while!!

Pic 3..Using 5 mil plywood as a topper for these triangles  ..to flex and shape from a taper to a flat transition..Ply wood this thin lays down nice and conforms to shape!!..Found the 5 mil plywood at Lowe's

Pic 4..With a sanding disc on my grinder, just tapering the edge to match the 3/4 ply at the final edge..

I hope you can see how this works..I was thinking of filling in the triangle pieces with foam sanded down to shape to have a solid base to support the 5 mil plywood better.. 
The best mechanic is the one that can make it run with the least amount of parts!

LJ-TJ

 ??? Interesting. Can't say I've ever seen it done that way before. Not a bad thing just something new.

RockwoodMike

The original aluminum skin is ripped on my "eyebrow"..At the top, like if it was scrapped with a tree branch..

The wood framing is rotted..So all needs to be remade..
I got some ideas about rebuilding this area from this boat builder..



Make the shape with plywood and then fiberglass, gelcoat it all nice..

Here are the 2 videos that got me up and running..

Can't watch it here for some reason..


The best mechanic is the one that can make it run with the least amount of parts!

RockwoodMike

Just some reference photos..I am not installing the automatic adjusters..They blew apart before I bought this and tore everything up inside..

You can adjust the brakes by hand and a flat screwdriver..
The best mechanic is the one that can make it run with the least amount of parts!