Mike's 1973 D22 Complete tear out. From the Roof down!

Started by RockwoodMike, September 25, 2019, 11:43 PM

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RockwoodMike

The best mechanic is the one that can make it run with the least amount of parts!

RockwoodMike

Looks pretty close to me!!
The best mechanic is the one that can make it run with the least amount of parts!

Mlw

I see what you mean now.

Outside Diameter (IN)   14.03

Wow, wouldn't that be something. I guess I have to remove the duallys again and start measuring. If it seems to fit i have to contact my partstore here in the Netherlands and see if they have them in stock or that they can order them for me.

DaveVA78Chieftain

MLW

Bendix Catalog says the MB400 12" x 3" Formula Blue Rear Drum P/N is E127-72-009.  Bendix had converted their old P/N's over to Formula Blue P/N's sometime in the past however other aftermarket Mfgs (Bendix, Raybestos, etc.) had already cross referenced their P/N's to the old Bendix P/N's. So, when you cross the Formula Blue P/N (E127-72-009) back to the old Bendix P/N (140264) then drums start popping out of the woodwork.  Additionally, just so happens that that 12" x 3" rear drum was also used on the 74 & later M300 (RM300) / M400 (RM350) as well as many Dodge trucks from 71 - 93 that used 12 x 3" rear brakes.

Bendix - 140264
Dura Brake - BD8892
DuraGo - BD8892
AC-Delco - 18B79
Raybestos - 1961

Now if you have 13" x 3.5" rear brakes (163" chassis) then you might have problems.
[move][/move]


Mlw


RockwoodMike

Still working on it..Here is the backing plates for the rear brakes..

I have one of those pot sand blaster from Harbor Freight..You need a decent compressor ..I have one of those 60 gallon upright compressors doing all it could do to keep up with the volume of air it needs..

But they came out good..I have a small powder coating system in my shop as I mentioned earlier..Will be doing that next.
The best mechanic is the one that can make it run with the least amount of parts!

Eyez Open

Great job, I would really enjoy a sandblasting system, but that is not going to happen...to many issues going on.
 

RockwoodMike

Probably most of you know about powder coating..but for those who don't..

Image 1 shows the actual powder in it's storage container..Ultra fine powder.

Image 2 is my old Hypersmooth powder coating system..All it is doing is blowing the powder with regulated air pressure..Gives it a static cling charge and that is what makes  powder stick to the bare metal..It will not run like paint will and you can only apply so much powder because once it is covered all the excess powder will just blow away..because there is no where to stick once it is fully covered..

Image 3 is the bare part on a rack that fits in the oven..I did one side at time then baked it..let it cool and then flipped and sprayed again..380 degrees for 30 minutes on each side in the oven

Image 4 is the first side of the first part..Just powder clinging to the part by electric static..

That power stays put and will not run or sag

The best mechanic is the one that can make it run with the least amount of parts!

RockwoodMike

Here is the result..Because this involves a baking of 380 degrees in my household electric oven. the finish is pretty much permanent..

The original brakes were painted and you can tell they got hot..burned off the factory paint and why they were all rusty..

Don't need to worry about that any more!!
The best mechanic is the one that can make it run with the least amount of parts!

RockwoodMike

Taking inventory of all the internal brake parts..The right brake was just shrapnel inside spinning like a cloths dryer.

The left side looked together, but the control arm for the emergency brake is bent..

When you are tearing this thing apart as deep as I am you really see the history of it's 50 year life..

I will need to clamp it in a vise and see if I can straighten it..At least the right side is straight to have something to compare it to..

Just going to soak the pivot end of the arms in PB blaster over night so I can take them apart to restore them..

Everything!! Everything of this Indian needs repair, restore or replace..
The best mechanic is the one that can make it run with the least amount of parts!

Mlw

And as you see every time, good tools make half the work.

You are going at it thouroughly. Just don't replace to much with China junk or you would be back at it in a few years again  :shocked: :P  ;)  :)clap

BigAlsVehicleEmporium

Rockwood Mike, I'm really impressed with how well that powder coating came out! In my head, powder coating is this big, fancy process that has to be done in a special shop. I had no idea they made small-scale powder coating setups, very cool!

Alan
1972 Winnebago Brave D20 - 413 V8, A727, Dana 70
"That leaves only me to blame, 'cause mama tried!"

RockwoodMike

Quote from: BigAlsVehicleEmporium on July 28, 2023, 10:14 PMI had no idea they made small-scale powder coating setups, very cool

Harbor freight has the ultimate cheap started powder gun..Electric ovens can be had easy enough..

It really doesn't take much to get started..What is nice is once you pull it out of the oven, it is DONE!
Not just dry to the touch..just let it cool and it can be handled like a factory part..

Paint? It has to dry, stinks up the place and that bug that sticks it self to the paint doesn't help!

Just YT it and look at all the ways people get into it..
The best mechanic is the one that can make it run with the least amount of parts!

RockwoodMike

I am going to yank the differential out tomorrow..Spent the afternoon today getting it all prepared..

PB Blaster all the threads, soaking them. Then rearranged the jack stands to have the weight on the frame instead of the axle..So the diff is just hanging there by the springs. Roll a floor jack under the pumpkin to take some weight..Remove the u bolts and it should just roll out the side.."Just"

I have this feeling it will take some work to rebuild this thing!
The best mechanic is the one that can make it run with the least amount of parts!

RockwoodMike

Alright!!
Look at the first picture..The U bolts..Notice the right U bolt is threaded deeper with the nuts..

That bottom plate is twisted upward towards the front of the axle..I knew there was something that happened here..Because that is not factory install..

Second picture is I wrapped a terry towel rag around the threads and all the bearing surfaces..In case it smacks the concrete on the way out..Both ends covered like this.
The best mechanic is the one that can make it run with the least amount of parts!

RockwoodMike

Rolled the floor jack under the pumpkin..Jacked it up some to put pressure on the springs..Just a little bit to keep the axle in place as the u bolts are being removed

Notice the bent Shock mount stud?..The OP hit something hard on the right side..That would take a big smack to bend that bolt back like that.

I have an impact air gun..Needed to loosen, then tighten, then loosen some more, back and forth on each nut..Threads on the bolt are pretty messed up..

BPBPBPBPBPBPBP---EEEUUUUU until it finally came off..Tighten it..soak it with BP Blaster..loosen it..

Took some time to get each nut off..
The best mechanic is the one that can make it run with the least amount of parts!

RockwoodMike

All bolts and brackets off..Everything is soaked in BP Blaster
The best mechanic is the one that can make it run with the least amount of parts!

RockwoodMike

1st picture..The only thing holding it up is the floor jack..

2nd Picture...Down goes diff..Down goes diff..Down goes diff!!

3rd picture..Roll it out from under there..
The best mechanic is the one that can make it run with the least amount of parts!

RockwoodMike

There is a spacer block between the axle and the spring--Pic 1

Rolled it on the floor jack over to the work area..Long bolts and chain using 2 of the cover threaded holes..Lift it up with the engine hoist-- Pic 2

Onto the Saw horses where it will be awhile--Pic 3
The best mechanic is the one that can make it run with the least amount of parts!

RockwoodMike

These marks on the carrier bearing caps are there to keep everything in orientation ..Letter O is used but the left side is sideways, matching each other and the right side upright so that they match each other..

With these marks, proper placement is assured when you putting back together
The best mechanic is the one that can make it run with the least amount of parts!

RockwoodMike

The teeth look like they were in good mesh with each other but they look a little scorched..pitted..There wasn't much oil in it when I drained it a few days ago.

Also a lot of backlash between the ring and pinion..I will measure that before I tear it apart..
The best mechanic is the one that can make it run with the least amount of parts!

RockwoodMike

Here is some numbers on the right axle..They mean something..research to find out..
The best mechanic is the one that can make it run with the least amount of parts!

RockwoodMike

I set the pumpkin on an angle so that it would drain all the residual oil..

Bought a bag of oil absorbent..Some of it is on the ground to catch what ever doesn't hit the drain container..Just industrial strength kitty litter..From Autozone. 
The best mechanic is the one that can make it run with the least amount of parts!

RockwoodMike

Here is the left and right mount pads..The right wheel took a big smack going down the road..or maybe a big pot hole..The first pic shows the left side..normal looking..

Second pic is the right side..are crushed in..WAMM!!

I am out of pictures as this is the end of the day..Try to get more done tomorrow..
The best mechanic is the one that can make it run with the least amount of parts!

Eyez Open

Whoa that is serious work going on there, do you have air jacks at your disposal? Damm those pics make my whole body hurt.  :shocked

Just looked back thru pics again...all manual Jack's ...kudos young man!