Mike's 1973 D22 Complete tear out. From the Roof down!

Started by RockwoodMike, September 25, 2019, 11:43 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

0 Members and 55 Guests are viewing this topic.

RockwoodMike

Quote from: Eyez Open on July 12, 2023, 11:00 PMThey add up.

Looks like the same drum..RockAuto has it for 64.79

Amazon has it for 97.86
The best mechanic is the one that can make it run with the least amount of parts!

BigAlsVehicleEmporium

Quote from: RockwoodMike on July 11, 2023, 07:26 PMThere is on the market, fuel stabilizers that you can add to the fuel..wonder how well they work?

Mike, I have used Stabil 360 Marine in my equipment for the last decade or so. It has completely eliminated the carburetor issues that I was having with ethanol in all my equipment from old single cylinder Kohlers to '50s Chevy trucks, to my' 83 Grand Wagoneer. Highly recommend it, I put it in every tank of gas that goes in a carbureted vehicle.
1972 Winnebago Brave D20 - 413 V8, A727, Dana 70
"That leaves only me to blame, 'cause mama tried!"

BigAlsVehicleEmporium

Quote from: RockwoodMike on July 11, 2023, 02:43 PMI was thinking if I was to cut a opening on the top of the the tank of the motorhome..Maybe 5-6 in diameter..Create a bolt on top..that I would be able to install that screen filter that you were kind to link to..

If you do end up wanting to cut an opening in the top of your tank, it might be worth checking your local radiator shop to see if they do gas tanks. I had to TIG weld a new bottom onto my 50 gallon auxiliary tank and I had them hot tank it before I put heat & flame to it. Didn't cost much and when I got it back there was no gas smell at all. I've had friends and neighbors try at home approaches (soaking for weeks in water, etc) and the tanks still went boom when the welding arc struck.
1972 Winnebago Brave D20 - 413 V8, A727, Dana 70
"That leaves only me to blame, 'cause mama tried!"

BigAlsVehicleEmporium

Quote from: RockwoodMike on July 12, 2023, 06:20 PMCracking the diff cover with the fluid spilling out, the color of the fluid looked fresh..I think it was a bit low but it looked recent..

Did you find the source of the clunk when you opened up the rear diff cover?
1972 Winnebago Brave D20 - 413 V8, A727, Dana 70
"That leaves only me to blame, 'cause mama tried!"

RockwoodMike

"If you do end up wanting to cut an opening in the top of your tank, it might be worth checking your local radiator shop to see if they do gas tanks"

I am not going to do any modifying to the tank. Leave as is..But I will be creating that trap door right above the tanks that will be located under the kitchen sinks..If that tube ever gets clogged again, cleaning it out will be an easy task..The clogging that occurred is probably the first time this has happened..It is just a time accumulation buildup ..

"Did you find the source of the clunk when you opened up the rear diff cover?"

Not yet..But stay tuned as the whole diff is coming out so that I can go through it all..Set it up on saw horses and fully take it apart..check bearings, backlash, everything..
If I am going as deep as I am into this D22, I might as well do it thoroughly, completely and correctly..

 "I have used Stabil 360 Marine in my equipment for the last decade or so. It has completely eliminated the carburetor issues that I was having with ethanol"

That sounds like a product that has lived up to what it promotes to be..The quality of gasoline is so poor especially with the ethanol..In California, it is about 15 percent..E15..But you get these winter and summer blends of gasoline that really mess things up..

It has a Edelbrock carb on it..rebuilding it of course..It will be interesting to see how it looks inside..

Big Al, Thank You for your feedback on all this..Appreciate all of you that show interest in this extreme project!! :)clap   

 

 
The best mechanic is the one that can make it run with the least amount of parts!

Mlw

Quote.Appreciate all of you that show interest in this extreme project!! :)clap   

Your welcome! Appreciate your feedback as well.

Oh, and I just saw your comment under your avatar "I'm never going to get done with this winnebago!"

Trust me, you are not the only one feeling this way  ;)

RockwoodMike

Just opened the port side..At least it is all together..The starboard side had loose and broken parts at the bottom of the drum..

So the brakes shoe rivets cut into this side too..We are all good..Just got the shipping notice from RockAuto..

MlW..See how the springs are set up differently than your brakes? also the long arm that activates the emergency brakes..

I guess I can start taking the backing plates off..And start preparing the whole diff to be pulled out

Suppose to be over 105 degrees from now till the end of the weekend..

I need to prioritize first things first..make some iced tea!!
The best mechanic is the one that can make it run with the least amount of parts!

RockwoodMike

Forgot to post this photo of the locking nuts..The outside nut did not have the tab bent over to secure it.

And inside nut was so tight that I had to break it loose with the breaker bar that engages the special socket..It wasn't super tight but it was way too tight..

The snail will have go !!
The best mechanic is the one that can make it run with the least amount of parts!

Mlw

Let's do it like this for the others. Yes it's quite a different setup  :-[  :-[  :-[

Rearbrakes thru the years.jpg

I wonder if the change also goes for the brakedrums then. If you get new ones please make a picture of them, especially the print of the size. As they have to cross the pond, it's a whole lot cheaper just to trow them in the wastebin when they are not the right ones.

Mlw


RockwoodMike

That would be a good contribution to this website..When ever someone does a brake job like this, take about 4-5 photos from all angles to document the assembly of it all..Then a photo album to place them all in..

The port side rear brake of this motorhome is complete..nothing broken or lost..it would be good to take plenty of photos for everyone that might need it
The best mechanic is the one that can make it run with the least amount of parts!

RockwoodMike

A brass drift and a 2 pound sledge hammer drove the studs out, no problem.

After the drum and hub become 2 pieces there is a sleeve that is installed in the drum..I think it protects the brakes from oil that leaks from the hub seal..
The best mechanic is the one that can make it run with the least amount of parts!

RockwoodMike

Quote from: Mlw on July 13, 2023, 02:50 PMI wonder if the change also goes for the brakedrums then

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=3868602&cc=1087174&pt=1744&jsn=1158

Looks like it is a different drum..I don't know if that is the drum or not..I used a D400 pickup as the search vehicle
The best mechanic is the one that can make it run with the least amount of parts!

RockwoodMike

Quote from: BigAlsVehicleEmporium on July 13, 2023, 08:46 AMDid you find the source of the clunk when you opened up the rear diff cover?

After removing the half shafts, the clunk went away..Maybe there is play in the splines of the half shafts and the spider gears.

So without the drive shaft and shafts, it spins very easily..No preload to the pinion..

It is coming out..New bearings..reset the backlash and preload..will be good to go.
The best mechanic is the one that can make it run with the least amount of parts!

Mlw

Quote from: RockwoodMike on July 13, 2023, 03:41 PMAfter the drum and hub become 2 pieces there is a sleeve that is installed in the drum..I think it protects the brakes from oil that leaks from the hub seal..

That is correct sir.  :)

RockwoodMike

The new parts were delivered :)clap Everything seems to be in order..The only thing missing is the new hardware set with the springs and things
The best mechanic is the one that can make it run with the least amount of parts!

RockwoodMike

Here is the backing plate of the rear starboard side..This is the side that was tearing it self apart because loose parts were spinning around in there..I need to hit the axle with BP Blaster..Get it ready to come out..
The best mechanic is the one that can make it run with the least amount of parts!

RockwoodMike

This is the secondary tank and the bottom is very rusty. It has a baffle in the middle of the tank..I was thinking of cutting this open at the top to be able to clean it out..What I am finding out is white vinegar is the way to clean it..But it is a 30 gallon tank..That is a lot of vinegar!!

The sending unit is destroyed with rust and rot..

There is nothing on theis beast that doesn't need rebuilding , repairing, replacing..
The best mechanic is the one that can make it run with the least amount of parts!

RockwoodMike

Looking around for a similar gas tank replacement is out of the question..And I really don't want to go to a truck wrecking yard only to find something that might work only to have it full of rust.. So I need to save this tank

So here goes..

There is a surge baffle where the red line is..I stuck the water line in and filled it till it was pouring out and left the water on to run..

4 inch hole saw..drill a hole on both sides of the baffle..

The best mechanic is the one that can make it run with the least amount of parts!

RockwoodMike

Soooo!!

Here is the results..It worked..I can reach my hand and forearm all the way to the bottom of the tank..Reached in there with a spatula and pulled this out..

Now I can get in there with a power washer..and then create a bolt on patch panels to cover it all up..
The best mechanic is the one that can make it run with the least amount of parts!

RockwoodMike

Learning as your doing..The problem with the power washer, is you can get in there towards the bottom and some of the sides..But further up the tank and it is still scaly ..I tried inserting my compressed air nozzle and could reach the sides and top and stuff just went flying..

So one more step with throwing in about a quart of Simple Green and filling it up about 3/4 with water..

With a stainless steel pot scrubber and my arm all the way in there I could scrub the area that the power washer couldn't reach..

Dumped the water and blew it dry..Setting in the hot sun to get it hot and dry..

That pickup tube is almost tight to the bottom..I need to figure a way to shorten it about 3/8  so it would have less of a chance to pick up anything
The best mechanic is the one that can make it run with the least amount of parts!

Eyez Open

Now that's what I call extensive recon. Steel tank I assume...lmao asking for a friend as they say today.

RockwoodMike

Yes it is a steel tank..Wouldn't have much of a rust problem if it was plastic or aluminum
The best mechanic is the one that can make it run with the least amount of parts!

Eyez Open

I had to drop the tank in my Rambler, really didn't like that ideal at all. I'm older and have lost my youthful strength. I used a floor jack and a fabricated wood brace to drop it. Once down I was shocked to feel its weight.. aluminum i had never seen that before,it really makes a difference.

Mlw



Well, this time you can consider yourself lucky having an older model RV as they still have the standard model brake-drums.

I've searched my conversations with Geoffrey from Alretta, and sure enough:

"For your information, you will never buy another pair of rear brake drums for this vehicle. They were special factory only parts that were never sold in the stores. I do have the complete shoe axle set. 13x3-1/2" size. $320"

I don't know your exact chassis model, but Rock auto even has the 1973 MB300 models on the website, but not the 1979 MB400 what my model is.