Brake drum removal for a W300 69 D22

[Clyde9]

From: DampDude007  (Original Message)
Sent: 2/20/2005 5:12 PM

Can someone tell me what size socket it takes to get the brake drums off the front of a W300 69 D22?? I finally got the wheels off,I was having some issues,tell some one told me I had left hand threads on the left and Right on the right,boy were they making meth back in 69?? ha ha
Thanks
dude
www.dudesadventures.com



From: Slantsixness    
Sent: 2/20/2005 5:58 PM

Damp dude, No they weren't on meth. The idea was theat as you went down the road the lug nuts would tend to tighten, rather than loosen. It turned out that it was a pretty lame idea, as the lugs stay tight even if they're all right hand thread. You should not actually need a "socket", as the hub nut doesn't need to be that tight, but you do have to remove the cap (squeeze flat sides with some channel locks, and tap gently with a hammer (don't smash it, the caps are hard to get. Now remove the cotter key and castle washer, and remove the nut. be careful not to ever tighten when re installing the bearings and such. tighten it until there's no end play, then tighten slightly more but not so much as to slow down the wheel spinning, or you may damage the inner and outer bearings. Always re-grease BOTH bearings before re assembly, and watch where you buy replacement bearings. The Chinese made bearings at the cheap auto parts places won't hold up.. Search the message boards here for more info on that. Slantsixness (Tom)



From: DampDude007    
Sent: 2/20/2005 8:14 PM

Thanks,for the information,I always find myself buying stuff like this,ha ha,I always enjoy a challenge though, the winnie will not beat me!!!! I was trying to get the cap off I thought I would end up breaking something so I stopped to post up,I have never seen such a wealth of info for something I own, ha ha..thanks again, I just bought this thing last week for $300,drove her home,30 miles 2-1/2 hours..ha ha,I have not done anything dumb in a while, the weather was nice and I had all day,but the brakes went out about half way home..ha ha



From: OldEdBrady    
Sent: 2/20/2005 11:49 PM

You must have read my book!  "How to Buy Anything with Your Eyes Closed and Your Wallet Open."

I wondered who had bought that one copy.
      


From: denison    
Sent: 2/22/2005 2:05 PM

The grease cap on the front hub has 8 sides, is not a common type of wrench, is about 2-5/8ths or something.  One of mine was too tight to undo with a large adjustable wrench, so I used the side of a dull cold chisel to get it loosened up.  It is a right hand thread.   I didn't have the large hub wrench needed for the double nut inside the grease cap either, but my adjustable wrench worked fine. 
   While you are looking at the brake mechanism in there, be sure to clean the threads of the self-adjusters.  They get stiff with age.



From: DampDude007    
Sent: 2/23/2005 4:59 PM

Thanks Guys,I got one off,boy those drums are HEAVY,looks like I need all new brake lines cylinders etc, now for the rear drums..
I have put my progress report on my website...enjoy
www.dudesadventures.com



From: denison    
Sent: 2/23/2005 6:08 PM

If you are replacing wheel cylinders, it is probably a good idea to replace the brake hoses to each front wheel. I havent needed to replace any of the metal brake lines yet. To get the flare nuts to unscrew from the wheel cylinder I soaked the joint with penetrating oil every day for maybe a week. Then finally the nut unscrewed without twisting the brake line with it. When I reassembled it I put a coating on antisieze compound on the metal parts - begin careful to keep it away from the interior of the system, where only brake fluid should be. don't forget about the boosters - they probably need attention, if only to free up all of the brake line connections, and to loosen the bleed screw on the top of each one.



From: bboat101    
Sent: 2/23/2005 6:36 PM

My metal lines are looking pretty bad after 36 years. Do the parts stores have the replacement lines ("Can't Kink" is one brand I remember) in long enough lengths?
brian



From: denison    
Sent: 2/23/2005 8:24 PM

Many auto parts stores carry the flared brake lines in standard lengths - which I cant remember, and various diameters. You can get lengths from less than a foot up to perhaps 5 feet. You will be able to use some of those standard lengths as they are. You might need to use a couple of the standard lengths connected together with a coupling, for the longer runs.
It is also possible to buy the Bundy tubing (thats the DOT name for the stuff) in longer rolls, and buy the flaring tool and the flare nuts, and do your own custom lengths. I personally have always been happy to use the pre-made standard lengths, and just splice them with couplings.
And you would want the American, not the metric thread flare nuts. Also use 6 point flare nut wrenches, never try to use 12 point wrenches or flare nut wrenches on brake lines. And don't over-tighten!
Besides bundy tubing, I don't think there is any other type of tubing that is authorized for brake lines.



From: bboat101    
Sent: 2/24/2005 9:24 AM

Does anyone offer the premade type like the car restoration people use? Maybe Alretta's?
brian



From: denison    
Sent: 2/26/2005 4:40 PM

The standard length brakes line pieces have pre-made flares on them, with flare nuts already in place. But I never even asked about pre-made brake lines to fit a specific vehicle. I haven't even seen that for passenger cars - though as all my cars are old, I seldom go into a dealership to buy parts.



From: DampDude007    
Sent: 2/26/2005 7:15 PM

Thanks guys,the situation is under control,I bought all new cylinders,hoses,brakes,2 new lines and fluid for under $100 from O'Riely Auto parts in Peoria,they had everything in stock,it would have cost about $50 to rebuild them,what a waste of time that would have been. My steel lines were 32 inches,I bought 40 inches,they come in 10 inch increments,FYI.
www.dudesadventures.com