Towing two horses through the country

Started by eXodus, August 20, 2014, 10:12 AM

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Lefty

Like you said earlier, trucks with the exhaust exiting the side are fine. Trucks with exhaust exiting the rear are bad.
Professional rodeo riders and ranchers tow horses and other livestock every day using pickups with the exhaust exiting the sides with no issues. It's the ones with the exhaust exiting the rear that can allow the fumes to be drawn into the livestock trailer.
I'm sure a very small amount could still be drawn in from a side exhaust setup...as the fumes pass the sides of the trailer. But you'd have fresh air entering the other side and front... which would keep it well ventilated. I don't know about dual side exhaust setups, where the exhaust exits both sides of the tow rig. If the trailer windows were all open so plenty of fresh air could enter, I guess it'd be fine.

I can say this, I've been told that you should never leave the tow rig idling for long periods with the rig parked and animals in the trailer. With the trailer stationary, the fumes could accumulate.
Also, my neighbor has a 4-horse trailer, and his has four RV crank up vents in the roof... one above each horse. They are 12v powered types with fans.
I reserve the right to reject your reality and substitute my own...

eXodus

hey 77Brave, what are you riding ? We have a Paint mare and a Criollo (Argentinian Mustang)


Lefty: Yeah the trailer has four windows which are open all the time. Additionally we leave the two roof vents open while driving. The floor is made up of wood planks which has clearance in between, so plenty of ventilation in the trailer.


As soon as we are stopping we get the horses out of trailer, at least here in Florida, where everything which is not in motion gets a heat-trap in a couple of minutes.

TripleJ

Next time somebody tells you about a 'cold weld', it means they probably shouldnt be doing what theyre doing.  Not to kick a dead horse  ??? but it is close to the same as no weld.  I would rather have 4" out of 8" of good weld than 8 of 8 of cold surface boogers.

The factory work looked pretty strong, but keep an eye on that, and if you see it cracking or separating consider getting it ground off and re-burned. :)ThmbUp
'85 Holiday Rambler Presidential '28

eXodus

So we did it:


The first drive through Florida, from Fort Myers to Welaka State Forest North of Ocala, about 300 miles one way.


Good news: we arrived safely and did come back and most things did work pretty well.
Bad news: the just repaired A/C is dead again. Don't know what is wrong, but I will have to get it to repair again. The belt started screaming.


Best news: it whole Rig with trailer drives really nice. It took is about 6 hours to get there but I still had energy to go for a horseback ride.
The furnace works ! couldn't check it here in SW FL it only works under 70 and we never had that in the last couple of months down here.


Additional Items required:
- a folding Table for outside (really missed that)
- some kind of fan for the Bedroom
- something to cover the sink for more counter-space
- change the mattress this thing kills me






77Brave

Great to hear the first leg was a success. Looking forward to hearing more.

eXodus

More small success:


1. The Dead A/C is not as dead as it seems. Only the belt was mounted in the wrong pulley and got worn out pretty quickly.


2. replaced the FAN Clutch with a Hayden 2797.  The A/C shop told me that probably my compressor seized up because the engine was running to hot while standing around. The old clutch is more loose then the new one and I never did hear it going on. So it was always a quiet ride. But the temperature was always around 200.  i??


Don't know but better safe then sorry. I think my system gets the most abuse while towing from a complete stop. After getting to cruising speed everything sounds very smooth and not like the angry Jet when I get away from a Red light.


I'm near the full capacity of the Chassis, so I was thinking about, adding a transmission temperature gauge. Unfortunately their is no plug to screw it in. On the other hand, I'm not really interested in the temperature, it has just to be cool enough.


So my idea: adding a Fan to the the tranny cooler. The fan would be switched on and off by an inline thermostat:






Plus a relay in between to prevent the thermostat from getting toasted. Also I could wire a LED to the Dashboard which goes on when the Fan is spinning.


The whole Setup would be cheap, $50-60 and would help getting the transmission cooled in the moment it gets the most heat and no air from driving.
And I don't have to mess with the Oil pan to get a Sensor in.

77Brave

The tranny is definitely the weakest link in the drive train. Anything you could do to keep it cooler would be a plus. But with all the weight your asking it to move, I'd want a gauge. Might be a good opportunity to look for a larger capacity pan with a temp bung on it.....

eXodus

you mean increasing the capacity of the tranny fluid like this:



and this "performance" pans would have plugs for a Temp gauge. Will definitely look into this the next time when transmission fluid change on my schedule.
I would get 4 quarts more of fluid in the transmission. This should help over temperature spikes and increase the time before to much fluid is broken down.

eXodus

So did some small improvements:


Coach:
- tried 3 different inverter and send them all back, junk
- removed a bucket of useless cable
- removed the cable which bridged coach and chassis battery (why was it there ?)

- installed a old stock(new) front right leveling jack - leveling system is now fully functional.
- installed Vortex II fan in the bedroom
- bought folding table
- installed new ($70) Thetford Aqua-Magic Style Plus Toilet full China, really nice high and seat like at home.


Chassis:
- new bosch wiper-blades
- got a new monroe steering damper for a couple of bucks and installed it.  (the old seems not to be bad, after removing only rusty)
- borrowed a grease-gun from a friend and tried to lubricate all the front axle nipples - couldn't reach all need something with a flexible hose...
- borrowed a hitch ball mount with about 6 inches drop to get the trailer better leveled. In the moment the rear tires get more compressed and hotter then the front. (even with 4 inch drop)


A couple of small test drives showed the coach is now more silent and handling is just as good as ever. But hadn't been on the interstate yet, where handling had been the worst with Semi Trucks passing.

Rickf1985

Does your trailer have spring or torsen suspension? If it has spring then the wheels should have equal weight on them even if the angle is off, up to the limit of the equalizer between the springs. If you have the Torsen rubber suspension then it has to be level to have equal weight on the tires. The Torsen does ride so much nicer though and I am sure the horses would appreciate that. Actually, just looking through E-trailer to see if I was spelling Torsen correctly I see they now have Timbren rubber suspension and I no longer see the Torsen axles.

eXodus

it has a torsion type suspension. It's an older but well designed trailer. With small Arms which are holding the tires.

This is my second torsion type trailer and they are very nice running, don't dance and wiggle and they are very low which is good for loading the horses.
Not so good for get leveled with a high motorhome hitch :P Even my Pickup has a 4 Inch drop. I really don't want to get more then 6 inches drop, even this looks not that kind of good solution. I have seen that I maybe could mount the front trailer axel with a little more clearance to the frame so it would get more weight.

Since i have never been in the trailer while driving I don't really own how the ride is :angel: but in the mirror it seems very stable.

eXodus

some small progress and improvements:

- installed light over the stove for cooking :P
- installed oxygenics shower head

- designed and built and rebuilt a portable electric horse corral containment system
- removed old mattress (getting the good one from the guest room in there - nobody uses it anyway)

- got cat into the MH and see how she likes it, searching for a good place for catlitter box - maybe under the fold-out couch.

eXodus

Tried and proofed the Horse Corral, can built a 30x30 freestanding corral or can directly attach it to the whole side of motorhome + Trailer
60x30 feet. This is freaking huge for a portable system which has under 40lbs.
got the mattress from the guest bedroom in the MH, much better now :)clap
- my wife found a place for the cat litter after our cat disappeared and we discovered that we can remove the front panel of the pull out couch to store things underneath.

We are leaving on black Friday for a week. The longest trip so far.

Rickf1985


eXodus

yeah :) thanks the cat was under the fold out coach - that's why we discovered the storage and the removable front underneath :P to get the cat out of there.


Was food shopping today, before the Thanksgiving craziness begins. The fridge is running fine and the new inverter should come tomorrow. Just in time.

eXodus

So we are on the roads and trails for 6 days now.
at the weekend we did a 10 miles endurance ride and came in 1st and 2nd. Not bad for first timers.

the horses are doing great with traveling every second day. eating normal, digestion is perfect, energy levels are good. We are riding 6-10 miles every day.

with temperatures in the 70 and 80s perfect weather.
for longer trips we will need a seperate water storage for the horses, they are drinking more the 10 gallons a day.

the trailmobile is doing fine towing all the stuff. got about 7.5 mpg for the last tank, its okey for ac on and a lot of hilly terain and stops to small cities.

eXodus

Working on my list to get ready for the next trip in January.


- Generator is at Onan, waiting for a quote whats wrong with it.
- going to clean the roof and fix a minor leak
- need to replace windshield washer hoses


Big project: getting and installing a second big Freshwatertank somewhere in the front:
normally the Motorhome is driving relatively nervous on the interstate, the week before Christmas I was getting my family from the Airport (5 persons) since we don't have 7 seat car I did took the MH. The drive to Miami was boring the street perfectly level and straight. But still it was always attention on the wheel.
But as soon as I got some more weight on the front axle (all persons are sitting in front), the driving got much much better.


As I got it, I did replace the steering damper and grease the whole steering assembly. It came already equipped with a SAFE-T-STEER.


So now I'm thinking about getting a Freshwater tank, which I need for the horses, and mount it under the pull out couch. I was measuring the space underneath (63x29x9) and got the math:
at least 54 Gallon of addition Water capacity, without loosing any significant storage.
My concerns:
- 54 gallons are about 450 lbs of weight on one side of the coach and not centered
- how to connect it with the main tank in the back, or just don't ?

Rickf1985

How is your weight bias other than that? Which side are your batteries on? I would leave it as a stand alone separate from the main tank and that way you do not run yourself or the horses out of water unexpectedly. Plus more plumbing just means more to go wrong. Be sure to check for any side play in both idler arms, they are famous for that on these and it can be adjusted out pretty easily. It does sound like you are running arse heavy though from the sounds of it. These are usually maxed out on the rear axle weight and with the horse trailer you are probably pushing over by a bit so getting some weight on the front wouldn't hurt.

eXodus

drivers side: big gray tank, onan 4k, ,stove, furnace, water heater, black water, dinette
passenger: refrigerator, 4batteries, pull out sofa, small gray tank, maybe freshwater tank.


centered: Fuel tank, fresh water in the back under the bed.


good idea rick i have to get it on a scale. the only way to go.

Rickf1985

The only thing I see on the drivers side with any real weight to it is the generator. The passenger side you have the sofa, Batteries and fridge. All of which have substantial weight to them. I did not count the black and grey tanks since they are variable. Unless you can find someone with individual wheel scales where you can weigh each corner it will be tough to know where your weight is side to side. If you know anyone in the trucking industry they usually will have them in a places like riggers yards where the loads can vary in shape and size. Mobile inspection stops use them also, know any LEO's that have ties to inspection?

77Brave

What about adding one of those corner stand up water tanks in the tack room. Or better yet a roof mounted one like you see on the hay racks? Water would even stay a little warmer in the winter months. Definitely gonna need more in the summer when they drink 20+ gallons a day.

eXodus

Most times it's no problem, water is everywhere and they are used to drink out of every hole.


I had looked at the roof mount and they are 48 gallons, since I'm not planing to travel during winter, ice is not a problem. But they are freaking roof mount ! It's not a problem as long as the tank is full. But as soon you reach 2/3 the water is rolling inside tank from side to side at the highest point of the trailer.  I've got not a 30feet 10.000lbs crooseneck, We've got a 18 feet 3500 pound bumper pull. There are 400lbs+ rolling on the roof maybe a bit too much.


But yeah I was thinking about the corner stand up tanks, easy cheap and don't take any room. My minor concern would be that it would add an unknown amount of weight onto the hitch ball. I've got a class 3 hitch, this means I have to stay under 7500 for the trailer and 750lbs for the ball.
At the moment I've got a drop receiver which is rated at 6000/600, which is perfectly fine for my setup because I'm right around 5440lbs and 400lbs on the ball.
But I would rather not add weight far away of the trailer axles.


So my two options are: getting a tank which sits on the axles of the trailer, or near, which is complicated because there are standing the horses. Not impossible but a lot of plumbing and two small tanks.
Or getting the tank into the Motorhome, which is rather light on the front.


Anybody an idea how strong these tanks are ? can you walk on them ? Since I'm thinking about removing the carpet in the front I just had the idea of putting a big flat tank under the middle walkway, placing a piece of plywood on top and creating a step.  Maybe a 6 inches height tank. It could be very long (80 inches+) and about 28 inches wide.

eXodus

Just some minor maintenance the last days:


- Adjusted Wiperblades
- replaced windshield water hoses
- refilled windshield fluid
- full grease job on the chassis and drive-shaft (got a grease-gun for Christmas  :)clap 
- removed some plastics from the factory air intake and relocated the opening to the front over the radiator,  should create a litlle ram effect, no more abstacles in the breathing way and cold air.



One week until the next trip - only 4 hours drive.

eXodus

the grease job was nice, steering is now not so nervous anymore. Wipers are working perfect.


Did change the trailer clearance lights and running lights against LED. Since inside the Motorhome the Light switch got terrible hot when driving with lights on.
I did replace 10 dual clearance lights (2x3 watt each) and 2x 5w running. Don't know how much the LEDs need on power but most likely about 1/3 or 1/4 of the bulbs.


But I did estimate I got rid of probably 5-7A current which had been heating up my switch and it looks much better. Far better visibility during the day with the LEDs.


Maybe I get a good deal and will also change the rear clearance lights of the MH against LED.


Small job under the hood the former owner removed the cover over the solenoid compartment. But through this thing all cables are running into the cockpit, so now I had always cold air coming to my left leg :P
Right leg hot through the engine, left leg freezing through air coming from outside. Was really hard to see...


Just made cover out of a scrap piece of lexan, it's transparent, impact proof and doesn't burn. So hopefully no more parasitic air.


eXodus

Just did a little math after being once again at the scale, packed up and tanks filled, camping ready:

12640lbs fully loaded, with trailer hitched  GVW: 14800

Front axle:  4.360lbs MAX 5.300lbs
Rear:  8.280lbs MAX 10.000lbs

The trailer has just about 5300lbs which leaves me with a whooping 1.000lbs left to play around until I reach the GCW of 19.000.

So now I have to think about where to put the tank...