Classic Winnebagos & Vintage RVs

The Control Board is mounted in the main unit such that pin number 1 is at the top and pin 6 is at the bottom

Referring to the 2 pictures above:
Pin 1 (ground) of the board connector (top pin) goes to the left center pin (1) on rear of the switch
Pin 2 (Stop) of the board connector (top pin) goes to the top left pin (2) on rear of the switch
Pin 3 (Start) of the board connector (top pin) goes to the top left pin (3) on rear of the switch
Pin 4 is not used
Pin 5 (Battery Condition Meter) goes to the ungrounded connector on the Battery Condition Meter
Pin 6 (On Indicator & Total Time Run Indicator) goes to the ungrounded connector on the On Indicator & Total Time Run Indicator

When you place the Start/Stop switch to START, pin 3 is connected to pin 1 allowing a path to ground for the K4 relay.
When you place the Start/Stop switch to STOP, pin 2 is connected to pin 1 allowing a path to ground resulting in de-energizing the K3 Run relay.





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Atta boy Dave!

I just hope Tina can now figure it out.

Dave

I would sincerely rather replumb an entire bathroom... but I will print pix and go play on this if I have not screwed the switch up completely already...

Tina and MJ,
I was composing a another post when each of you posted.  Sorry I missed you.

One thing you both should do is check continuity of the 5 wires between the generator and the switch.  That way you know for sure which one is which.  Only thing that could be a problem is if  someone screwed with the wiring to the plug inside the generator itself.

Dave

QuoteOnly thing that could be a problem is if  someone screwed with the wiring to the plug inside the generator itself.

Opps, silly me.  The remote plugs directly onto the control board so that can not happen.

Dave

ok so.. took the pic of the wiring... mine was not the same... so took off all 5 main wires (I also have wires to the counter and battery charge indicator.. those I left on the poles....  Then rewired the 5 wires as per the pix here.   I have a green one where the one in the pix is orange....  I did take a pix of mine before I did anything so I can put them back the way they were....

and the result is.. nada BUT when I started the generator from the switch on the generator I could not turn the generator off at all until I completely unwired the dash plug...  The switch is now unwired except for the jumpers...to the counter/charge.

How do I check for continuity?  as I said I am electrically blonde.  I have a testing meter but thats the extent of it.. no clue where to turn it to what to test or where to put the red vs black test lines... 

For the record  landing a plane is easier than figuring this out...
Tina

QuoteFor the record  landing a plane is easier than figuring this out...

:)rotflmao

Pulling plug at generator end isolates the remote switch

1) Remove plug at genny end.
2) At remote switch:
    A) Remove all leads from switch unit.
    B) Ground 1 lead to chassis.
3) At genny plug end, use a ohm meter to locate which pin is grounded
4) Genny plug is pins 1 through 6, top to bottom
5) Mark remote end (small piece of masking tape) with pin number that was grounded.
6) Remove from remote end from ground and ground the next wire.
7) Go to step 3) and repeat for each wire until all are identified.

Dave

Don't despair Tina, I have the exact same problem but at the other end of the harness. I ripped the wires out of the plug at the generator. It is an easy fix but if you are by yourself you are going to get quite a bit of exercise running back and forth changing wires. :D

Quote3) At genny plug end, use a ohm meter to locate which pin is grounded

3) A) - turn OHM meter to __________ setting (You need _________ type of OHM meter)
    b) - Place red tester end on _________________
    c) - Place black tester end on _________________
    D) - indicator on OHM meter will read ____________

I can land a plane, I can tune an engine, I can replace brakes.....  If I can see it I can fix it.. I can't "See" electricity....

My OHM meter has a dial full of "settings"....

I"m not dispair-ing... just tossing hands up in frustration... LOL.   i?? i?? i??

Tina

That's the thing... Dave has - > electrovision...
(He'll be starring in a superhero movie soon...)

Quote from: Mark S on April 21, 2014, 11:46 AM
(He'll be starring in a superhero movie soon...)

THANK YOU...  ???

Quote from: tiinytina on April 21, 2014, 10:01 AM
3) A) - turn OHM meter to __________ setting (You need _________ type of OHM meter)
    b) - Place red tester end on _________________
    c) - Place black tester end on _________________
    D) - indicator on OHM meter will read ____________

I can land a plane, I can tune an engine, I can replace brakes.....  If I can see it I can fix it.. I can't "See" electricity....

My OHM meter has a dial full of "settings"....

I"m not dispair-ing... just tossing hands up in frustration... LOL.   i?? i?? i??

Tina

Ok, I am assuming you want answers to these questions. Here goes.
A- Any ohm setting, just the first setting you come to and any ohm meter will do. Most nowadays are digital volt-ohm meters
B and C are interchangeable in Ohms testing. One will go to a good ground on the chassis, a bolt under the dash will work. The other will go to each wire until you find the reading that I will tell you about in D
D - When the two probes are not touching each other or anything else you will have an infinite reading, in other words the meter will be at the bottom of the scale on a analog meter or it will be showing a bunch of bars and usually some roving numbers on a digital meter. If you touch the two probes together you will get a full scale on a analog or a 0 reading on a digital. Try it, this is what you will be looking for when you are checking the wires behind the switch to find the one you grounded back at the generator. Due to some resistance in the wires you may see 2-3 ohms of resistance on the meter, you will still know you have the right wire because it will be a drastic change from the open circuit signal. Be sure the plug is out of the generator before doing this. Any problems just pm me a phone number and I will call you, it is a lot easier to explain on the phone than it is by typing. At least for me it is.

Rick

Today class we learn about multimeters by watching this cool You Tube video or for those who enjoy the slow study method, some manuals.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bF3OyQ3HwfU (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bF3OyQ3HwfU)

Pay particular attention to the Continuity Test as that is what Miss Tina wants to do.That is actually just a 0 ohms resistance check.

At time 3:18 he checks a test lead cable for a broken connection (meter BEEPS so the cable is ok).  That is what you will be doing except the "test lead" in the video will be your wires between the generator plug and the remote switch.

If you need something that goes a little slower:
https://learn.sparkfun.com/tutorials/how-to-use-a-multimeter/all (https://learn.sparkfun.com/tutorials/how-to-use-a-multimeter/all)

A cartoon style version
http://nadp.sws.uiuc.edu/cal/PDF/MultimeterUse.pdf (http://nadp.sws.uiuc.edu/cal/PDF/MultimeterUse.pdf)

The final version is face to face meet where I show you how while we work through this.

Dave

I totally clicked on the cartoon style version!!

Hmm, not as "cartooney" as I had hoped...

Well sheesh, I bet Tina likes it!

All those that saw "cartoon" and clicked on it say "Aye"


Aye W%

Thanks guys! now to find the time and glad my genny and dash are relatively close together on the rig (genny is just rear of drivers seat under rig.)....   I did not see a connector like the one in the pix on the genny.  Mine has a cable running into it but its wrapped.. guess I will take the front control panel cover off to see where it goes if I can't pull it out. 

Tina
Ps and nope I clicked the first one :-)

<Raising Hand>

I TOTALLY went straight for the "cartoon style" one...

I have to be honest though...  I downloaded it...  :-[

More of a training document.

Daves getting sneaky..

Quote from: oldrockandroller on April 22, 2014, 12:40 PM
More of a training document.

Daves getting sneaky..

GASP! ???
Why    the   little.....

 :laugh:

You guys have not figured out I do that sort of thing for a living.

Tina,
For a BGE generator, the remote start cable plugs directly into the side of control board through the side enclosure.

The connector on the right hand side is for the remote start plug.
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That picture is for a BGE Spec F or  G.  The 2 connectors on the left end are for the "Engine Controls" and the "Alternator" portion of the generator.  For a BGE, the Start/Stop switch is actually mounted on the control board itself (bottom center in pic).

Dave

Quote from: oldrockandroller on April 22, 2014, 12:40 PM
More of a training document.

Daves getting sneaky..

I'll take that as an "Aye" from you also?

Tina. My remote plug on the generator is on the right side looking at the front and it is just behind the front edge.

Dave, being a former submariner, arent you like a fish out of water being out of the water?

LOL - Next best thing.  Support submarine equipment from dry land

Yahoo!!! Thanks and more to Frank and Frank Jr...  Brad and Pat pitched in as well... 3-4+hrs of time and yippeeee!!! they finally figured it out. I was about ready to break things.. The diagrams didn't match what I have on my uber control panel at all......  My P2 connector is 3 over 3 not 6 in a row... one is missing and one wire is cut off.  White wire numbers didn't correspond to position in connector or switch.   Switch wiring not same etc.... I'll have to pull it and take a pix.  I do know on mine Yellow wire is on P1.  black (hot) on P3.... I was replacing screw cover at that point.... Being useful.. LOL...

My Onan manual (purchased from Onan) is missing 4 pages of diagrams.. one of which is my exact model... thus on here looking during repair....

Tina

Uh..... So its fixed?

That style of Remote connector was used in BGE spec A through E.  It is not mounted directly to the board.  Spec F and later had the Remote connector directly mounted to the board.  I was thinking you had either a Spec F or G.

Sound like you got it fixed.  Congrats!

Dave

Yea I have the E series... We pulled the board off and the wires from the P2 connector ran all over underneath and into the board at various locations.   But yes... hit switch battery reads, counter counts, light illuminates once the genny catches and can turn it off without stopping the RV getting out and using switch on the genny... life is good!  :)clap

Tina

WoooHooo. Congrats!