I have done my research, and it seems everyone raves about this stuff, SO i decided i would join in.
However after reading all the info, everyone says they are just using the "roll" of tape.
when i go to the website http://www.eternabond.com/RV-Leak-Repair-Products-s/22.htm they seem to list a few different types.
when i do you tube video searches see alot of the white, the white does say it sticks to everything(then why the differnt types?)
I have an aluminum roof, so will the alumibond type be ok or go with the white that everyone seems to be using?
if your using what did you by?
Ok, I used the white 2 inch tape one the first on and treated roof with Kool Seal. I taped the seams(removed trim and all traces of putty tape and anything else. Then taped the seams, all vents and bolt heads, any thing else that I thought might leak. Replaced trim, had a leak because I spun out a screw in the tape and caused a hole.( found the hole by removing some trim again. My source, the least expensive I could find is
http://www.bestmaterials.com/Eternabond.aspx (http://www.bestmaterials.com/Eternabond.aspx)
I will use the grey tape now because of price. If you have a large area the 4 inch is nice but costly. The two inch stuff works well on seams and around vents ectc.
JD
We used the 4 inch white around all the vents and seams, and then coated over it when we coated the roof. Awesome stuff. Got a great deal on 2 50' rolls, 80 bucks for both. It was on a back shelf all dusty in a little RV shop in NY, and there wasn't a price tag on it. The lady called the owner, who had no idea what she was talking about, and told her I could have both for 80 bucks...SOLD!
I still have a little left, even after covering everything on the roof of our 35 foot motorhome.
Kev
I've said this other places. Some disagree, and that's OK. I used Eternabond on my roof (aluminum). Didn't work. The two leaks I had continued to leak. I tried a multitude of things, and only tried the last thing for the heck of it, since nothing else worked: Dyco 890. Sealed everything immediately. So much so that I bought more and ran a coat over the entire roof, and a second one. No leaks since. That's WELL over a year ago.
But, your choice...
Something must have been different with your application, Ed. The tape itself? The roof? But, everyone else has had excellent success with it so something has to be unusual in your situation.
Eternabond has tape with UV kits. What for, I wondered, when they have the gray tape with the aluminum already on it? I used this instead of the white tape for added UV protection.
The thicker, gray tape (what in the world no backing) is fantastic for sealing vents and anything which should have stickiness on both sides. I STILL have my leftover roll ... what? Seven years now and it's as pliable as the day I got it.
Thanks guys, i ordered the 4" white in the 50ft roll, i'll post pics before and after
I thought I saw where someone posted that Buytle tape is the same thing as eternabond tape.
im not seeing where I had saw this ..I bought some buytle tape at home depot...it looks like the eternabond tape..I jad wanted the double sided eternabond tape and the rv place didnt have it.just the one side tape..I went to a few other store and they didnt have it either ..the buytle tape is sticky on both sides and is used to join the metal on metal roof to keep it from leaking I got a 1/2 inch 50 ft roll for $5.88...if its the same stuff what a great price that will be ..I want to put it on some aluminum to keep it from leaking where my awning brackets went through my fiberglass on my rv and to give it a little extra support ..I dont want any leakes so the double sided would work great ..does anyone know if thats the same stuff..thank
Butyl is not the same, it is putty.
well thanks for that info rick ..bummer ..lol I thought I was on to something ...bummer again ..lol :)rotflmao
Using butyl tape, applied correctly, in the correct required situation is, to me, impossible to beat.
In the correct situation.
It does not and never will replace Eternabond.
I think that the general consensus is that there is nothing better than Eternabond used where needed.
One of those few products that are well worth the money.
Quote from: OldEdBrady on April 10, 2012, 09:14 PM
I've said this other places. Some disagree, and that's OK. I used Eternabond on my roof (aluminum). Didn't work. The two leaks I had continued to leak. I tried a multitude of things, and only tried the last thing for the heck of it, since nothing else worked: Dyco 890. Sealed everything immediately. So much so that I bought more and ran a coat over the entire roof, and a second one. No leaks since. That's WELL over a year ago.
But, your choice...
Eternabond when used in conjunction with Eternabond Primer will stick to almost surface - Key is to use their primer and making sure all seams are sewn together and there is no movement .... After you prepare the surface, prime and install you'll need to rub in the Eternabond with a hand roller .....
Dyco 890 is a coating that could be applied over the entire surface after seams and holes are repaired, again, like with Eternabond, preparation of the surface is the key .....
In my trade, roofing 42 years, we used a lot of Eternabond for repairs and with any product, including Eternabond and Coatings such as Dyco 890 preparation is the key .....
As a temporary repair of seams, try using Gorilla Tape ..... Again preparation is the key ..... Place a strip of tape right over the Seam and then strip in the two outside edges with additional tape ..... I have temporarily repaired many metal roof and single ply roofs with Gorilla Tape and later when we send the Crew out they remove the temporary repair and use Eternabond and as a side note, we never used a coating as a repair product, rather coatings are used to protect our repairs and the surface from further degradation!
Butyl is also used extensively in automotive. Windshields are put in with liquid butyl, replaced with either liquid or a roll in a box in either 1/4 or 3/8 (3M windshield). Home depot sells 4" by 1/8 tape used for sealing home window flanges before siding.
An automotive paint store has various kinds of butyl.
Unless things have changed windshields have always been put in with gaskets or urethane. I have never seen one put in with butyl.
I stand corrected. The replacement rolls of soft stuff was butyl, and the calk tube is urethane which hardens after the glass is set in. The butyl was incredibly sticky, and you had better get the windshield in the right place the first shot. Urethane was more forgiving on positioning, but incredibly messy.
Quote from: JDxeper on April 10, 2012, 03:35 PM
Ok, I used the white 2 inch tape one the first on and treated roof with Kool Seal. I taped the seams(removed trim and all traces of putty tape and anything else. Then taped the seams, all vents and bolt heads, any thing else that I thought might leak. Replaced trim, had a leak because I spun out a screw in the tape and caused a hole.( found the hole by removing some trim again. My source, the least expensive I could find is
http://www.bestmaterials.com/Eternabond.aspx (http://www.bestmaterials.com/Eternabond.aspx)
I will use the grey tape now because of price. If you have a large area the 4 inch is nice but costly. The two inch stuff works well on seams and around vents ectc.
JD
If you are going to coat Entire Roof after you detail seams / edges with Eternabond then you should be using Eternabond WebSeal ..... WebSeal has a fabric / polyester backing that readily accepts coating.
http://www.bestmaterials.com/SearchResult.aspx?CategoryID=1023 (http://www.bestmaterials.com/SearchResult.aspx?CategoryID=1023)
The slick backing of Eternabond Bond will not allow the coating to stick to it, yea at first it appears that coating covers and sticks but as time wears on the coating will flake and peel and it may hold some moisture which may work its way back into the field portion of the roof.
I used the web mesh seal on my seams as well.
Quote from: OldEdBrady on April 10, 2012, 09:14 PM
I've said this other places. Some disagree, and that's OK. I used Eternabond on my roof (aluminum). Didn't work. The two leaks I had continued to leak. I tried a multitude of things, and only tried the last thing for the heck of it, since nothing else worked: Dyco 890. Sealed everything immediately. So much so that I bought more and ran a coat over the entire roof, and a second one. No leaks since. That's WELL over a year ago.
But, your choice...
Sounds like the issue was not at the Projections, which Eternabond would seal but rather pinholes in your roof which a coating would seal ..... IF you did Entire Roof with Eternabond I absolutely guarantee and would put down some serious money that you would have no leaks - I speak from experience, 42 years as a Commercial Flat Roofer!
Quote from: Oz on October 07, 2017, 09:35 PM
I used the web mesh seal on my seams as well.
The Web Version accepts coating whereas the Slick Version does not accept coating very well due to slick surface ..... Key to using any Eternabond is the prep of area and make darn sure you roll the material in.
Quote from: WrigleysBraveWin on October 09, 2017, 08:24 AM
Sounds like the issue was not at the Projections, which Eternabond would seal but rather pinholes in your roof which a coating would seal ..... IF you did Entire Roof with Eternabond I absolutely guarantee and would put down some serious money that you would have no leaks - I speak from experience, 42 years as a Commercial Flat Roofer!
In my photo album, you'll see that I found some of these pinholes. I used the silver backed eternabond, cut into squares, and placed over the holes before sealing the roof.