Some of you guys already know about the Chieftain II I bought a few months ago. Just starting to get my thoughts in order on which way to go with the color pallet, floor coverings, and furnishings.
Here is what I have at this point. More of a blank slate as the previous owner pulled the floor coverings already and started to add additional sheeting over the original floors.
Class C seats that will be going bye bye.
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Kitchen in overall decent shape except for the missing overhead stove and makeshift microwave stand. It has the remnants of a built in blender in the countertop too.
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The luxurious master bathroom. ;)
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Stunning red shower with a newer model toilet. :)ThmbUp
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Last pic is an old one from a few years ago which shows what the previous owner started with. It gives you guys a better idea of how the rig's floorplan works. The fold out couch in this pic had the original fabric at the time.
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The red shower brings up the biggest issue. This thing is full of red.
Here is the retro pattern that the previous owner reuphulstered everything in at considerable expense. This pattern will be on the front fold out couch and the entire rear lounge area. My wife likes it which is a good thing. Now I just need to tie in the rest of the coach.
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This picture is one of the cushions with a new carpet sample in a modern shag(only red version I can find), a swatch of the orignal 1" or better thick shag, and the thin carpet that covered the master bedroom walls. I will be paneling and painting the bedroom and not putting any carpet back up.
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Close up of the different shades.
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These are the red bucket seats I plan to clean up and use. They should bolt up to the original swivel bases fine.
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Planning to use some type of carpet in the front living area and then finish off the rest of the flooring in vinyl or laminate. My wife mentioned doing everything from the step down behind the front seats in a wood laminate and then find a few red throw rugs and bath mats. I thought that was a decent idea too.
>GRIN< WOW! Them Thar are some colors. What a great rig. Looks like it's going to be a fun project. Sounds like the wife's on board as well which will make it a hole lot more fun. Thanks for all the pic's. She looks like a real sweet rig. Old Bradley's going to be jealous. He's been looking for one of those rigs for ever. :)ThmbUp
If you want to change the shower color, they make plastic paint that you can use.
Dave
Actually, I like it and was thinking about making the toilet red. Y!
LOL - That works too!
Looking good! If you have pets shag carpet is going to be a pain in the butt, but if that's what you like, go for it!
If you are going to paint the toilet red, don't believe the directions on the can of paint. That plastic paint that is supposed to adhere to plastic with no primer is a joke, and scratches and peels right off easily. If that is the paint you are going to use, then you'll really need to rough up and sand that plastic so the paint will stick. If you really want a paint that lasts, go to a marine or boat store and buy yourself a quart of Petite Marine hull paint..and yes, it comes in red! That stuff sticks to anything, and lasts and lasts and lasts. Its self leveling, so you can brush it on and the brush strokes magically disappear! I painted the shower pan in our first RV with it, in white...and it looked brand new for the 2 years we had it, and that was with 2 adults showering daily...we are fulltimers...and even held up to my wife's hair dye. AWESOME stuff. Not cheap...just a quart will run you about 30 bucks, but you don't need to prime the plastic or even rough it up. Alternatively, you can also thin the paint out a bit and spray it with a sprayer...but we used a brush and you couldn't even see the brush strokes. It ended up as smooth as glass and as shiney as a gel coat.
Awesome rig! :)ThmbUp
Kev
Thanks for the paint info. That sounds like the stuff to use. I am just guessing that original toilet was red going by the shower stall. Didn't most the Winnies back then coordinate that way? The shower needs some touch up anyway so I will need something good.
No pets but one rather busy 3 year old boy though.
What are them new seats out of? I have a huge set in my '75 that I am thinking of changing. Not sure what I want though.
Quote from: sdkid on February 09, 2012, 11:33 PM
What are them new seats out of? I have a huge set in my '75 that I am thinking of changing. Not sure what I want though.
They are out of a 1993 Dodge Ramcharger. Basically any buckets from the mid 70's to 1993 in a Dodge van, truck, or Ramcharger would be similar.
Best deal my wife got for the Chariot... two, 2nd row, full-sized van seats form a mid-80's Chevy van. Captain's chairs in nearly mint condition. She got 2 for $60! They bolted right on the RV bases with no modification needed too.
[smg id=839]
Thinking about the paneling in the rear bedroom. It originally had carpet on the side and rear walls. When the PO took it down the walnut facing on the paneling tore and looks pretty bad. There are no big spots of damage and it is pretty solid yet so I was planning to just go over this paneling with another layer that can be painted.
Can I just use adhesive and corner trim to hold it in? The aluminum window frame will also hold it in place rather well also. Each of the three sides would be one complete piece of paneling. Not sure what is behind the exisiting and don't want to get into wiring or if there is much back there to hold screws anyway.
Thanks
We used paint grade Wainscoting over the old paneling in Gone when we redid our bedroom.. liquid nails to glue it then corner trim pieces....
Tina
Thanks, I will do that as well.
My wife and I made the rounds at a home improvement store tonight with the Cheiftain on our minds. She is not totally in love with the Winnie styling but knows how much I like them. We more or less agreed the outside and mechanical stuff is my deal and the interior is her call. We have a lot of the same decorating taste so I am fine with that.
I am pretty sure we will be going with some wood laminate material for the living, kitchen, bath, and bedroom areas. She likes the look of cherry and that has a hint of red. :)ThmbUp They had some area rugs in red or combinations of red and nuetrals that would look nice along with the flooring. This seems like the best approach as she is not wanting a shag carpet everywhere and I don't really blame her. I did find some thick shag area rugs in a perfect red color that she said I could carpet the front drivers area with and also would help to sound deaden some engine noise because of the heavy rubber backing on them. A little pricey but nothing else seemed to fit the original carpet theme I wanted to duplicate in at least some small way.
She also mentioned replacing the countertops with a dark granite style, I am not totally crazy about that much work but the original tops have seen better days and could use replacing. A lot of the original items have been removed so preserving originality is a little late now anyway, time to bring her out of the 70's I guess. i??
Starting to consider some other options for the rear bedroom. I have the paneling to fix but there are some storage cabinets that, to be honest, seem a little weird and flimsy. I might build a upper bunk or two to gain some sleeping room and still have storage when not needed for sleeping. Need to measure that up before getting to carried away though.
I do need to get started on this as it is driving me crazy leaving it sit in disrepair. :(
Yeh! and it's only 5 months to Jimcs. D:oH!
Here is another red shag sample my friend sent me a picture of. It is a little closer to the original color and not quite so maroon.
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He is planning to stop by tommorow with it and some kind of newer vinyl laminate samples that lock together. He also has some leftovers of the vinyl from jobs that I can get cheap so hopefully something will work out.
He also said he has some leftover low knap red carpet that might work on the back bedroom walls if I want to go that route. I'll have to think on that one though. Hm?
Made a trip to Menards today with paneling on my list of must haves. Wandered around for about an hour looking at everything. After nothing caught my eye in the paneling aisle I headed over to the plywood section figuring on getting some OSB for the floors. As luck would have it they had some 1/4" red oak 4' x 8' plywood with real nice graining on sale for $16/sheet. I bought enough to do the back walls and will find a nice stain and get as close to the old cabinets as possible. Also, picked up a couple sheets of white 1/8" paneling to do the ceiling at the same time. Liquid nails, great stuff foam, and some screws rounded out the shopping spree.
I love Menards! We used to do the Wisconsin Renfaire, and it was awesome how Menards had not just oak and poplar wood in different sizes, but cherry, walnut, and mahogany, to just name a few! I wish they had Menards in other parts of the country! I like them way better than Home Depot and Lowes.
Kev
I made my first trip to Menards last weekend. We were going to the St. Joseph, MO airport for a luncheon with some flying friends (Tri-Pacer club [no I don't have a Tri-Pacer but they let me eat with them]). On the way back my wife and I decided to stop at the Menards to just see what they had since there isn't one in the Kansas City area. I was pleasantly impressed. Way more stuff than Home Depot and Lowes. We didn't buy anything but we sure made some plans for the future.
Before we left St. Joe the wind picked up pretty good from the south. Some of the planes had a very slow trip home. I think we drove faster than some of them flew.
Made a little progress on the paneling....actually this is the only interior progress so far so it is kinda a big thing for me.
Got a late start as the morning was spent getting my lawn in shape as it was 82 degrees here today, in March, in Wisconsin!
The Winnie work began after lunch and got one side of the paneling cut out and then trimmed up for fit. Still need to cut out one reading light and, of course, the window. I might wait until the end for the windows anyway and cut those in place. I won't attach the paneling with adhesive until all the walls have been completed just in case something needs to come back out.
Here is what the red oak paneling looks like. I think it will look good once stained. The grain is not too heavy and most of it will be covered with cabinets, window coverings, or cushions anyway.
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Found a nice shag area rug line at Home Depot last week, it is a little pricey but it is almost an exact match to the deep pile, texture, and color of the original. I love it and it feels great. My wife said go for it but, she still wants a laminate floor with removable rugs so they can be cleaned. Works for me as long as I get my red shag!
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So I take it that your just gluing the new paneling over the old. I'm courious as to how your going to do the windows as in, are you just going to take the trim off cut out the window and then replace the trim or are you going to cut the window out in such a way that you don't have to take the trim off at all. Hm?
The plan is to sand the shiny spots on the old paneling and use Liquid nails and screws in "hidden" areas. Corner trim and the cabinets will also secure all of the paneling in place.
I should have mentioned that the window trim has already been taken out. I will either borrow a RotoZip to cut out the paneling or use a JigSaw with paneling blade. I thought it would add strength to leave the plywood in one piece and glue it vs cutting out the pieces and glueing back in. I fits nice and snug now. Once cut out the window trim will go back on as originally designed.
The rear is going to get a sheet of 1/2" plywood above the window at the bend to help with strength as well and I bought some angle brackets to tie the ceiling to the walls and walls to the floor area. There is a factory A/C ceiling brace that I will probably put back in even though the 2nd A/C unit was removed previously.
Made a little more progress on the bedroom yesterday. Everything is still removable because I am precutting all the panel pieces and fitting it all together before gluing and fastening.
I added a 1/2" piece of plywood at the rear top for more strength and it will also help in mounting the rear upper cabinets. I still need to cut out the breaker panel access and make a sliding door on the lower oak panel. The middle piece is cut but the window has to come out first.
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The next two pics just show the rear corners that were cut to match the contours of the Winnie. The 1/2" plywood fits snug in between the 2 side panels and seemed to strengthen up the rear without even being glued in yet.
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Driver side paneling cut out and the window has been removed. Someone was off an 1" on the electric wire hole in the middle. W% Fortunately, the side cabinets will cover this miscue. The pic is deceiving but the seams fit nice and tight between the panels.
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Last pic is just a shot of the PO's roof repair. I think it was done fairly well. I am not 100% sure what to do with the wires to each side of the romex for the light. PO said they were for speakers he was going to add but I can't find any connecting wires and I "think" these are just loose up in the roof and not connected anywhere else. One side is just folded over single wire with no cut ends and the other appears to be the "cut" ends of the same wire. I am going over this with white prefinished paneling and will probably just eliminate these mystery wires.
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That's all for now.
If you haven't glued your new pieces in yet, I had really good luck with contact cement versus Liquid Nails. It sets and grabs almost instantly, so you don't have to brace things up against it or clamp it while the glue sets, like you would have to do with Liquid Nails.
Kev
Any particular brand that you used? The more adhesion the better.
Nice Job :)ThmbUp thanks for keeping us up to speed on the project ,doing a great job. Lots of good info as well. :)clap
I think the brand was DAP, not sure. Got it at Home Depot. Very volatile stuff though...solvent based and a lot of fumes, so make sure you have some windows open and a fan...lol!
You paint a thin layer on the wall, a thin layer on the wood you are gluing up, and wait a minute until it feels almost dry to the touch. Line up your piece just the way you want it, and hang it on the wall. Make sure you line it up right, because this stuff GRABS immediately...if you just touch the pieces together they start to stick, but you can pull it off if it was only a light touch to realign a piece. Once its lined up, push on it...apply pressure to the whole piece by pressing all over it with your hands...and done. It sticks immediately, a very strong bond, with no clamps, etc.
Kev
Finished up the paneling this weekend. I ended up using the Liquids Nails just for the simple fact that the panels are very tight and nearly impossible to get exactly right without adjusting them once in place. FWIW I used up the 4 tubes and ran to ACE hardware and got some Loctite brand paneling adhesive in a tube that seemed to work just as good or even better IMO. The window cuts were done by installing all the paneling without adhesive and then tracing out the areas from outside. I took the panels over to my work table and used a Jigsaw with downward cut formica/paneling blade. Small guide holes were drilled around the tracings in order to transfer the pencil lines to the finished side.(can't cut from the back side or it blows out the panels edges too much)
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The rear window panel went in tonight. This is how I held them in place while the adhesive set. The masking tape is painters grade and held the edges nice and tight. I also used screws on an angle and small wood stock in certain places along the edges to keep the panels in place. It worked out pretty well.
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I cannot believe how much stronger the rear walls are now. That upper 1/2" plywood panel in the rear definately was a big improvement and firmed up the tail quite nicely. I need to pick up some corner trim after the cabinets are installed and get the windows back in. Finally feels like I am getting somewhere for a change!
Played around a little bit tonight with some flooring ideas. What do you guys think of these three colors? They are leftovers from some home improvement projects. The piece in front is for reference to the original paneling. From left to right they are walnut, maple, and cherry. I almost think the walnut is too dark in a already dark interior. I am leaning toward the cherry look that is not too light and not too dark. Hm?
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Here is the newly recovered retro couch that converts to a double bed. The rear wrap around lounge with convertable double bed has the same pattern.
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:)ThmbUp First...WELL DONE, nice job, really looking good. :)clap
as far as the floor, they all look good. Hm?
Awesome job so far! I'd personally go with the lightest wood for the flooring...lighter gives an impression of more room...but the cherry is nice too. I agree that the walnut would be way too dark.
Kev
Take a look at my "Chariot" album. You can use dark wood and still have a spacious effect.
There is a change in the works. D:oH!
I dug in my old stash and pulled these out. I bought these at a junkyard about 20 years ago out of a wrecked Dodge conversion van. These are the back two seats and are a little dirty but otherwise in nice shape. For some reason I was thinking they were dark brown and had left them in storage for years without looking at them. As you can see they are light tan and black.
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Quite an improvement compared to the ones in there.
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Got both mounted up in about 10 minutes, bolted right to the original bases like Mark mentioned with his set. :)ThmbUp
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This one has a little sun fade on the armrest. I will dye the black sometime, works for now.
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Passenger seat is mint and they are super comfy. Y!
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I like the look of these so much that the red shag might be off the table. Thinking brown or maybe black carpet for the front driver area. The other big news is I talked with my wife and we are putting a double or queen mattress in the back like original. We want some comfort while sleeping and the lounge area would be more of a nuisance to setup every night anyway.
Tommorow we are taking a family day and, hopefully, bringing something else home if it is in nice shape. The color and style is close enough to the captains chairs and I never really cared for the flowers anyway. W%
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OOOHH!! I Like Those!! Those Captain Chairs look fantastic! Major improvement there, and they look as if they were made for it too.
I don't know if I agree or not on the red shag... On one hand, I think the red makes a bold color statement, and it does go well with the black and even the tan. On the other hand, I can understand that too much color can be gaudy in a hurry....But if you did the red shag up front, and then red shag in the back, with the maple flooring between (and recovered the kitchen counters with laminate that looks like black granite), then I'd say your well on the way to a very stylish rig.
Oh, and I absolutely agree on the couch... it looks like it would go just fine with your new chairs, and I didn't wanna say it but that flowery couch was HIDEOUS!!! lol
Quote from: Im_Still-Lefty on April 12, 2012, 11:23 PM
Oh, and I absolutely agree on the couch... it looks like it would go just fine with your new chairs, and I didn't wanna say it but that flowery couch was HIDEOUS!!! lol
Ha, I know what you mean. To be honest I have been trying to work around those couch colors for months now and they kept getting in the way. Time to do it up like my wife and I want to. A little retro is fine but not that much.
So, how about red shag on the front floor and tan or black vinyl on the engine cover? Throw some red pillows on the couch and call it good. It is called a "custom" after all. Still need to find a nice swivel chair for behind the passenger seat too. Hm?
Looking good! Those chairs look great, and that couch you are looking at looks like it will go well with them.
You could always do the front a more conservative color scheme, and then go red shag in the bedroom...make it like Austin Power's Jumbo Jet, baby! Maybe some mirrors on the ceiling and a disco ball...lol!
Kev
The family fun day went good. My 3 year old loves big rigs so we took him down to the World's Largest Truckstop in Walcott, Ia. He had a blast as we drove through all the truck lines and then went inside to look at all the displays and grab some lunch.
Then it was off to the RV dealer that had the sofa listed. It is a brand new Flexsteel jackknife sofa out of a 2010 Monarch Cayman! The people that bought it wanted a recliner instead.
Safely home in the back of the truck. It still has the tag on it yet. They stored it away for over a year and just pulled it out to sell it.
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Here is the pattern and leather bottom panel.
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I am really glad to have found it and the price was fantastic considering it is new and what a Flexsteel would cost like that. It is about as close as this bargain shopper is going to ever find to match those captains chairs. The lady mentioned the Flexsteel couches start at at $1,600 to order and go up from there. Don't know if that is true but it made me feel good. lol
While I loaded the sofa and tarped it for the rainy trip home my wife walked around the used RV's. Of course they just had to have a mint 1993 36' Foretravel Unihome in perfect shape with a Cat diesel and allison setup in it. She fell in love with it so the bar has been set pretty high for the old Chieftain renovation to say the least. D:oH!
Got the cabinets installed in the bedroom yesterday. I am thinking of going with a lighter stain on the red oak paneling to give a two tone look with the cabinets.
Keep up the awesome work, and give lots of pictures please! Great job so far, and the chairs and couch look great!
Kev
Ditto :)ThmbUp :)clap
Thanks guys! Here are some pics of the newly installed cabinets in the bedroom. I am undecided on the ceiling right now. I may paint it white or just leave it the way it is. Also, going to test out some golden oak stain on a scrap piece and see how the color looks.
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I was bored tonight so took a few pics of the interior.
Here is the vanity.
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Here is the shower door.
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This is close to where the toilet will sit when reinstalled.
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Here is what I found when I moved the toilet out of the shower. Someone butchered it up to cap off the line. $@!#@! I will make some kind of patch and epoxy it back in before repainting.
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Here is the large wardrobe in the bathroom for clothes etc. The furnace is below this as well.
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Here is the smaller closet next to the shower.
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Moving to the kitchen. Pardon the mess. This is the cabinet layout. The built in vacuum is under the cooktop along with the motor aid 6 gallon water heater. A second furnace, which has been partially disassembled, is under the kitchen sink. The 4 drawers have the fold out table behind them that opens into the living room.
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Upper cabinet in kitchen and what I "think" are original window treatments. Missing stove has been replaced with a microwave. I am going to do something better with that area.
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Last two are a couple shots of the living room storage areas.
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Great layout! As far as the ceiling goes, when we had the Itasca the eventual gameplan was to do it in the FRP board, the pebbly grained thin plastic panels that you see in a lot of kitchens or restaurants. EASY to keep clean and it looks great too. They only have the white at Lowes, but Home Depot carries it in white and sand color. Glues up with special FRP glue, which holds pretty fast so you don't have to hold the panel up for very long.
If you don't plan on redoing the rest of the ceiling in the RV, then you might be able to find some vinyl wallpaper that matches the rest of the ceiling paper in your rig.
Or you could go with mirrors and that disco ball... :)rotflmao
Kev
Quote from: ClydesdaleKevin on April 16, 2012, 09:55 AM
If you don't plan on redoing the rest of the ceiling in the RV, then you might be able to find some vinyl wallpaper that matches the rest of the ceiling paper in your rig.
Or you could go with mirrors and that disco ball... :)rotflmao
Kev
Menards has the FRP too. I looked at it when I bought the paneling. The rest of the ceiling is in good shape just a little discolored from age. Can that original ceiling paper be painted to brighten it up or will that damage it?
I think I will pass on the disco theme. :laugh:
I don't think paint would damage it. Although you might want to base coat it first with Kilz to keep color from leaching through to the top coat. I'd use the water based Kilz on wallpaper...not sure what the oil based would do to the glue holding up the wallpaper.
Kev
Looks like I am going with the maple flooring. I checked and have enough to do the job on hand so the price is right. Y!
Just need to get some transition pieces and trim to match from Menards.
Still haven't decided on the carpet. One of the $150,000 diesel pushers we walked through last week while getting the couch had a nice carpet with black and tan mix that looked sharp. Hm?
Stained the paneling today using "golden oak" from Minwax. I tested a walnut stain and didn't like the look. Need to coat it with some poly now.
Next I started laying OSB down on the floors. When I tried to get it snug under the kitchen cabinets the old furnace was in the way. No big deal, just unhook it and pull it out. Yeah, I got it unhooked and it wouldn't fit out the cabinet door. The whole cabinet front had to come off. D:oH! At least it will give us a bunch of cabinet storage back and save some weight having it out of there too.
My brother in law helped me get the behemouth of a couch out of the Winnie yesterday, glad to have that out of the way. :)clap
Spent the last two nights laying OSB down over the old floors. They really were not in bad shape but I wanted a solid and level base for the laminate going in.
I love Craigslist! Not only did I find my Chieftain on there, I recently got the new couch, and a gear vendors for cheap.
Today I made a little trek and brought home some more goodies to upgrade the old girl.
First pic is a never used Wedgewood vision oven with piezo ignition and a 10 gallon Atwood water heater with electronic ignition. A guy got these out of a unused FEMA trailer that his company bought and gutted for some type of laboratory. My stove is missing and this will work out great and all I have to do is remove the beat up drawer below the cooktop and this will drop in. The water heater will be replacing the 6 gallon original in there now and will fit fine after increasing the height of the exterior cutout.
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The other item I was really happy to find. An nice older gentleman bought this brand new Norcold 8 cu.ft. frige two summers ago for his old coach and then ended up selling it. He pulled it out before getting rid of it and put it up for sale. It is in great shape and is just a little taller than my original frige that isn't working on electric and is pretty well used up inside and out from years of use. I have plenty of space to put it in and the black will go perfect in the rig. My wife is very happy with these recent finds, she might actually start liking this thing. :D :)clap
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Do I detect a note of excitement? :laugh:
Sweet finds!! Your going to really have a nice rig when you get finished... really nice.
Gotta love Craigslist! You can find some really sweet deals there, just like you did! I always check Craigslist first before going to eBay, where frantic bidding wars often put the cost of something used higher than new, and then you have to deal with shipping.
Awesome finds!
Kev
Thanks guys, pretty happy with the new stuff. Y!
I hooked up the shore power for the first time and everything seems to work good except for the 12v ceiling lights in the bath and bedroom. They are all on one circuit so something is amiss there. The convertors seem to be doing there job and the generator worked fine once running. I do have a intermitent issue with it starting that needs to be addressed yet. The coach battery needs to be replaced as well so I just used a car battery to test stuff out for now.
The good news is the A/C works good, built in vac works, the in counter bender works(missing pieces though), all outlets work, the rest of the 12 volt is good, and the tank monitoring system lights up fine. The air compressor for the water system has power but it is froze up and looks like it hasn't been used forever. Probably just convert that over to a newer pump when the rest of the plumbing is corrected.
Lots on the to do list.......
There is ALWAYS lots to do on the to do list...lol! I highly recommend going with 2 6 volt golf cart batteries when you get coach batteries. They are in my opinion the best coach batteries for the money, period. I went with Interstates, although Trojans are supposed to be better and don't cost much more.
Awesome job...keep up the good work!
Kev
I called a local battery store and asked about the 6 volt golf cart batteries. They mentioned that the ones they sell are about 4" taller and 20lbs heavier than a typical battery. I don't have that kind of room under the Winnie coach without doing some major work. Are the interstates the same height? I got room way in the back bedroom and could build a vented box to relocate the batteries but that may take a degree in wiring. ???
Right now I have one huge coach battery in there along side the chassis battery and I can barely get it out and it is the standard height.
I went out and measured my batteries for you after reading your post, and came to the conclusion that the guy you talked to on the phone must be a dolt...lol!
My Interstates, which are standard golf cart size, and 7 inches wide, 10 inches long, and stand 9.5 inches high...10.5 inches if you want to include the strap thingies for carrying it. If you have 10 inches of clearance height wise, they'll fit.
They are a little higher than a Walmart deep cycle marine battery, but they aren't anything close to 4 inches higher. More like an inch and a half. And they aren't as long.
They are heavier...they contain way heavier duty lead plates, so yep, they are heavier, but not so obscenely heavier that your battery tray couldn't hold the weight.
Measure the height of clearance in your compartment. And the depth and width. If you have at least 10-11 inches of clearance for height, 10 inches for depth, and a width of 14 inches, you could definitely put 2 golf cart batteries in there.
Kev
And if I recall, my Interstates were about 110.00 bucks each, just this past November.
Kev
Great deals... just an aside... the fridges are usually installed prior to putting sides, doors etc... we had to remove the entire door frame to get our old one out and the new one in... and it just barely fit... hopefully yours will be easier.
Tina
Quote from: ClydesdaleKevin on May 01, 2012, 08:18 PM
I went out and measured my batteries for you after reading your post, and came to the conclusion that the guy you talked to on the phone must be a dolt...lol!
My Interstates, which are standard golf cart size, and 7 inches wide, 10 inches long, and stand 9.5 inches high...10.5 inches if you want to include the strap thingies for carrying it. If you have 10 inches of clearance height wise, they'll fit.
They are a little higher than a Walmart deep cycle marine battery, but they aren't anything close to 4 inches higher. More like an inch and a half. And they aren't as long.
They are heavier...they contain way heavier duty lead plates, so yep, they are heavier, but not so obscenely heavier that your battery tray couldn't hold the weight.
Measure the height of clearance in your compartment. And the depth and width. If you have at least 10-11 inches of clearance for height, 10 inches for depth, and a width of 14 inches, you could definitely put 2 golf cart batteries in there.
Kev
Thanks for checking, I have 10-11" through the door and plenty of height inside. The tray is around 23" x 22" so I should be in good shape. Don't know where his measurements were coming from lol!
Will two batteries be sufficient? I see you have four but fulltime as well.
Quote from: tiinytina on May 01, 2012, 08:36 PM
Great deals... just an aside... the fridges are usually installed prior to putting sides, doors etc... we had to remove the entire door frame to get our old one out and the new one in... and it just barely fit... hopefully yours will be easier.
Tina
I didn't even think of that. ??? It seems that there is a inner trim piece that will come off and give enough width to get the old one out and new one in. At least I hope that works.
I would say that for most folks, just 2 is all you need...they store a LOT of amp hours! If you plan on doing a lot of boondocking, then 4 would be even better, but if you are only going to boondock occasionally, then 2 gold cart batteries will be MORE than enough. We are actually planning on adding 2 more before our next winter boondocking trip, plus a couple of big solar panels, a good charge controller, and a good battery monitor...but we got hooked on the idea of boondocking this past winter, and plan to be going weeks at a time without being hooked into the grid.
Kev
I ditto the advice about the golf cart batteries.
On my old '86 Chieftains (the 27-footer we crashed), I bought a welder and learned how to weld just so I could cut out the battery tray and drop it two inches by adding in some material on the sides, and welding it all back together. (Okay, I really wanted to get into welding anyway, but this was an excuse to get going, and a great first project!)
Currently, on our "new" '86 Chieftain 33', I put the golf cart batteries in the tray by turning them on their sides and sliding them in, then standing them up. It's really not a good arrangement because the terminals are only like 1/2" from the metal floor above and there's no way to check water levels. But it's only temporary until I can do the same cut/extend/weld project on this one too. It's on my very short list of things to do to our "new" '86 Chieftain, too -- I hope to get to it in the next couple of weeks.
By the way, Sam's club currently has golf cart batteries for just under $80 each. My last pair has lasted like six years so far.
Tommy
Quote from: TommyM on May 02, 2012, 12:01 PM
By the way, Sam's club currently has golf cart batteries for just under $80 each. My last pair has lasted like six years so far.
Tommy
Thanks! I will check Sam's out as we have one fairly close. The battery store with the "tall" ones(lol) wanted $120 a piece for their brand and it wasn't the Interstate or Trojan 105.
If you have plenty of height in the compartment and only have to tilt the batteries to get them in, then you are all set! If the terminals get too close to the metal top of your compartment, you can always glue a thin sheet of rubber to it. I lined the floor of my compartment with the thick rubber sheets that you can buy at Tractor Supply, meant to be used as a stall mat...cheap stuff, but I did that more to insulate the batteries a little from road vibrations, and to keep battery acid from getting on the steel bed of my battery compartment. My battery compartment is huge though...lol! I can fit 2 more golf cart batteries in there if I want to, and there is about a foot of clearance over the batteries.
If you have a hard time checking your battery water level, just do what I used to do with the Itasca...and what I still do with my back batteries...use a small flashlight and a mirror!
Before buying the batteries from Sam's Club, do a little research and find out who makes them. Some cheap golf cart batteries use a honeycomb of lead instead of solid plates...because lead is getting expensive. They don't last as long as the solid plates, and are more susceptible to sulfation deposits.
Kev
There are two practical problems if the compartment height is sufficient but the door is too short.
First, you have to completely remove them from the compartment (including disconnecting the cables, unless your cables are crazy long) in order to check the water level.
Second, even if you insulate the metal floor above, it is really difficult to get a wrench on the cable ends.
That's why I don't think it's a good long-term arrangement.
Tommy
My battery compartment has a slide in tray, I dont know if they are all that way, but it makes it super easy to deal with the batteries. One day I will have to pull it out and see what kind of batteries are in there. I havent done anything to them since I bought it.
On our old 77 Itasca, with a sliding battery tray, I used 3 big 12 volt gel batteries...since they came with the RV and were brand new. They stood maybe an inch shorter than golf cart batteries, and there was a good 4 inches of clearance over them when sliding out the battery tray, so golf cart batteries would have fit and I still would have been able to use the sliding tray (which with gel batteries you never really have to since they are maintenance free).
I'm going to venture a guess that models of different years and different configurations in the same years more than likely had differences in not only battery compartment size, but also locations. Our old Itasca was a real lounge model, so the battery tray was near the front driver's wheel. It appears that on the models of the same year with the door in the middle and a rear bath, the battery tray was near the back, and in the pictures looks smaller.
The best thing to do? Go out and measure your compartment! You'll need 10.5 inches of clearance at the hatch to use the sliding tray. Ideally, you should have about 4 inches or more of clearance over the batteries once they are in the compartment, so you can remove the caps, tighten cables, etc., which brings your compartment inside height to 14.5 inches as a good minimum. The more the better...I have over a foot (closer to 2 feet) over my batteries...but 4 inches or more would still allow you to remove the caps, use a mirror and light to check water levels, and you can use a filler hose connected to the top of your distilled water jug to top off the batteries when needed. And this is assuming they won't fit out the door on a sliding tray, or you even have a sliding tray. If they'll slide out on the tray, then an inch or two of clearance would be more than enough, provided the batteries are strapped down and can't bounce up and contact the top of the compartment when you go over a speed bump...lol! With a sliding tray, you simply slide them out to check the water levels and cable tightness.
Kev
My Chieftain has the sliding tray behind the drivers wheelwell.
Made another run to Menards today and picked up some more red oak to finish off the bedroom walls. I got the last two panels in but they still need to be stained once the adhesive sets. The golden oak stain being used can be seen on the other panels.
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Also, took out the nasty old cooktop and rigged up microwave stand to make way for the new oven. The build in vac also came out temporarily for better access to remove the old water heater.
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I finally made a decision on the carpet in the driver area. I found these red shag rugs at Wal-Mart the other day and the sizes are nearly perfect for what I want. The color is a little different than original but I actually like it a little better as it not so bold. The roll is 5' x 8' and will do the front passenger area and step down. The smaller one is 30" x 44" and just I tossed it on the engine cover to show the color. It will go in front of the couch after everything is done.
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Holy Crap! have you got the dico ball to hang from the mirror to? :)rotflmao I'm kidding, I'm kidding that's pretty wild. I've been meaning to ask. Are you just gluing the laminate over the original paneling or are you taking the old paneling out and building new. If your just gluing what glue are you using. Hm?
I am gluing the new paneling over the old. I have been using heavy duty liquid nails and then switched to Loctite paneling adhesive as it seemed to have a better initial tack. Either works fine once dried though.
Great,thanks mate. I really do like the new seats with the red carpet, looks classy.
Today I got all of the flooring screwed down good including the plywood in the living room the previous owner did. It is all very sturdy now after several hundred screws were added.
After finishing the floor I cut out the last of the red oak paneling for the bedroom. There were 4 pieces that are under and surround the lounge area and hide the water system, generator, and LP tank setup.
Then it was on to removing the water heater, it came out alright except the heater hose for the motor aid was so old a brittle it cracked and starting leaking antifreeze when I began pulling out the heater.
After cleaning that mess up it was on to removing the refrigerator. I have it all ready to come out but my brother in law will have to help me get it out of the coach. There is a 1/4" of play in the doorway to get it out, should be fun! The particle board below the refrigerator is soft by the outside access door so that will get replaced as well.
The old refrigerator is out and it went pretty well. Thank you to my brother in law for helping and Winnebago for having doors that are slightly wider than the refrigerator. :)ThmbUp
LOL! When we bought our 89 Holiday Rambler, a PO had installed a household fridge. When I removed it, first I took the doors off, and it still wouldn't fit out the door. So then I removed the rear sheet metal...still no dice, since the coils were covered in foam. I chipped away the foam, hammered the coils a little flatter (Gaining me about an inch and a half) and was finally able to remove the stupid thing!
The Dometic I replaced it with fit with a quarter inch to spare, even without removing the doors.
I have no idea how they got the household fridge in in the first place! I'm guessing they removed the driver's seat, and came in sideways through the driver's door.
Kev
I've heard some of those larger than door refrigerators are installed/removed after removing the windshield.
D:oH! We had just bought the Holiday Rambler, and I wasn't even used to having a driver's door...never had one before on an RV. It didn't dawn on my that I could have removed the seat and came out through the door until after I removed the household fridge. LOL!
Kev
A little more progress to report.
The water heater is nearly installed. I have to remove the motor aid lines coming up through the floor in order to slide the new heater back another 1 1/2". Otherwise the modification for the 10 gallon heater install went pretty well except that I slipped while trimming a last little bit of aluminum siding and cut my index finger pretty good. :'(
Here is the original opening.
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Trimmed exterior siding pic taken while finger bleeding nicely into paper towel and masking tape bandage.
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Rotoziped out the thermopanel insulation. I set the depth to remove the insulation first and then the interior paneling came out last.
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Heater slid in place with about an inch to go.
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Looking down from above. The heater needs to come back past the motor aid lines that are connected by the black heater hose going into the floor. The original piece of wood bracing to the right of the heater will go back in above the heater on the inside paneling for support.
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I also got the cabinet trimmed out to install the new frige that is a few inches taller than the original.
While there I figured it was time to tackle the rotted particle board base in the refrigerator cabinet and remove the last remnants of once mouse infested shag carpeting in the cabinet under the frige. It was nice to get that nasty stuff out and lay some new OSB down. I will caulk around the edges before the frige goes back in.
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After that the new stove cutout was next. Here is what I started with.
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Trimmed out the cross bar and measured 16" down from the countertop and cut out about another 2" of cabinet. I had to use some 3/8" wood filler stock on both sides of the countertop to bring in the opening for the stove to rest on. The back of the counter will need to be filled in as the old cooktop was designed different.
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I was a little worried if there would be room at first but the built in vacuum fit nicely under the stove like it was meant to be there.
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Looking great! I love seeing jobs done right! :)clap
Kev
Your doing a great job! Keep us posted. I wish my Winny had a built in vac :(
Got the rear windows installed and sealed back in with caulk tape. Still need to silicone the outside yet. Not much done other than that except I had to move it out of the building I was working in and now have it stored in another. Here it is out in the light of day after quite a while in storage.
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She's a beauty!
Show off.
LOL nah, really it is looking great.
Dave
Thanks, it was close to 90 degrees here yesterday so I kicked the air on and put the windows back in without breaking a sweat. Hopefully the A/C keeps working as I do more stuff this summer inside.
Beautiful !!!!
I located another '73 Chieftain parts rig and scored a ton of usable parts. :)clap It is a D24C that features a rear bath and side by side bunks. I was really planning to just get a front drop down bunk out of it but the owner wanted it gone so the whole thing came home for cheap. The roof, ceilings, floors, and the exterior are rough but the inside is suprisingly nice.
After looking at the floorplan and considering our needs my wife and I decided to use the dinette out of it in place of the couch. With a family it will be nice to have a gathering place for meals. I plan to use one of the rear side bunks and cut it down and make a bench/lounge adjacent to the dinette.
Here is the dinette.
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Matching rear bunks.
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Sad part is that it has the original stove that I was looking for forever. Unfortunately, I already have the new stove in place. I will try to use the original oven in such a way that a small microwave can be used inside it. Don't know if that will work yet or not.
Here is the original stove.
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There are a ton of other small parts I can use out of it as well like light fixtures, paneling, cabinets, and plumbing parts.
Had a little rain last night and confirmed what I already knew. The roof on the donor is a big time leaker.
Worked some today on dismantling the interior of the donor. The drop down bunk is out and the dinette is disassembled and out.
Look what I found under the dinette taking it apart. A previous owner switched over the freshwater tank to a newer 40 gallon plastic tank and installed a Sureflow water pump. I needed to replace both of those in the Chieftain II so that was a pleasant surprise.
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Definitely! That's one sizable project in itself you can take off the "wish list". I had this conversion in my Indian and LOVED it!
Looking good! Little by little you'll get her just the way you want her!
Kev
I'll tell you one thing, all these little projects stacked together have turned into one rather large and ominous undertaking. D:oH!
It really is in pretty good shape overall and will be nice when done. I just want everything to have a good going over to be as reliable as possible. Y!
The drop down bunk is now installed in the rig. It was a little challenging doing it myself but overall it went pretty well. The hardest part was putting the bunk platform in once the springs were installed. There isn't much room to get it in there.
Puttered around with the floorplan some more as well. I like the dinette idea but a couch would be nice as well, can't have both unless the L kitchen countertop is removed. I would rather not do that because it is a main feaure of the Chieftain II and is rather unique. The other option I looked at was to mount the table in the rear bedroom off the back wall and have it drop down like a dinette for a bed. I'll get this figured out eventually. ;)
Quote from: Wantawinnie on July 16, 2012, 04:43 PM
I'll tell you one thing, all these little projects stacked together have turned into one rather large and ominous undertaking. D:oH!
It really is in pretty good shape overall and will be nice when done. I just want everything to have a good going over to be as reliable as possible. Y!
I think that's exactly where most of us find ourselves once we really start to dig into things. That's why it truly is a "labor of love". But really, it's par for the course and, not only do we get to know our RVs quite well, it instills a well deserved sense of pride in our ownership, above and beyond simply "owning" an RV.
Great job with the updates and thank you so much for sharing this with us! :)clap
you can always add a removable tabletop that can be placed in front of the couch. That's what our Georgie boy has. It uses two flush mount floor recepticles, and two removable chrome posts that the table top sits on. The table top stores in the pantry vertically when not in use, and the posts store in a compartment under the couch. That way when your not needing a table, it isn't in the way taking up floor space. You can get all the parts from Camping World to build a set up like you want. (you can buy 3/4" birch plywood, which is furniture grade and smoother/flatter than plain plywood.. and cover it with laminate to match your countertop.)
Thanks Mark, I am thankful to have all of the help and suggestions from everyone here. It is especially important to a newbie RV owner like me to learn from the veteran RV'ers. :)ThmbUp
Lefty, that is a good idea. How wide of a table does your Georgia boy have? The original table in the Chieftain folds down and out of the way but it is very narrow(maybe 20") and somewhat cumbersome with the leaves that need to be added. I could also put another table and leg in the back like you suggested and still use the rear lounge setup that was in there. That would be a nice spot for using my laptop when on the road checking in with you guys. Y!
The temperatures are finally back in the 70's so I can work on the rig without running the A/C nonstop. Got some time to remove the old motoraid water heater lines that were in the way of the new water heater today. After that I plugged the holes in the floor from the lines and the water heater is now in place and secured. A trip to Menards for some PEX pipe is needed before the water heater can be plumbed back in.
The frige is close to going back in. I stained the new pieces of the red oak paneling that were cut out for the new larger size frige opening. After the stain gets a coat of poly I can get the frige back in. Little by little it is gettiing back in shape.
Finally figured out the wiring for the bedroom, bathroom, shower, and wardrobe ceiling lights. The PO had redone the ceiling and left a bunch of loose wiring for me to figure out. I was getting quite frustrated and almost to the point of ripping out the rear roof to see what was going on up there. Fortunately, I was finally able to trace the power and ground wires that feed everything using a test light and a bunch of trial and error. Both wires were run using the same color so it was quite a headscratcher. Plus, there is a light switch thrown in there turning the bedroom lights on and off. D:oH! Glad that is over with and now I can see in the rear of the coach without a flashlight. :)ThmbUp The bathroom exhaust fan is on the same circuit and that now works as well.
The donor rig is proving to be a treasure of original hardware. In the kitchen I was able to salvage the original stainless steel hood vent and it works like a charm! I used both of the front seat reading lights in the rear bedroom as the Chieftain II uses the same fixtures back there. Much of the ceiling lighting will be used in the bedroom as those are missing also. The rear speakers and grills will be going back like original to finish off the bedroom.
Take a little more off the to do list.
Sounds like the pieces to the puzzle are really starting to fit into a whole picture. You're going to be one, very proud classic RV enthusiast!
Thanks! It does give me a good feeling bringing it back into working order again. I am taking the family camping up in Minnesota and meeting up with my aunt and niece over the weekend. I wish the old girl was ready for a voyage but maybe next year. I am borrowing my dad's newer travel trailer instead.
Also, we decided to go with glueless sheet vinyl for flooring. I don't feel like messing with laminate and my wife wants something lighter and "non" wood looking. Still deciding if the original counter top and backsplash will stay for now. They are decent enough and, to be honest, I really want to wrap this up and get using the beast.
Had a nice time camping last weekend in Minnesota with the travel trailer. It gave me some inspiration to keep working on the Winnie and start some classic adventures.
I did have a little problem last night with the 12V power. I have been running on shore power for the last few weeks working in the rig without issue. The house battery was junk but the donor rig had a newer marine battery so I decided it was time to put that in yesterday.
There are two converters in the Chieftain II's. The first unit is a Progressive Dynamics 708 with battery charger. It runs the 12V power on the left side of the coach, a furnace, and the water pump. The 2nd unit is a Phillips PC-301-A-2 that runs the right side 12V power, the other furnace, and the recirculating toilet.
The house battery was fully charged but when shore power was disconnected there was no 12V power on the left side of the coach. Knowing the left side was run off the 1st converter the issue was most likely in that area. Note:(At this point I should have stopped and done a search on this site) N:( Instead of doing that I began troubleshooting all the wiring from both converters trying to figure out where the loss of power was. After removing a bunch of old electrical tape and tracing wires I found the one responsible for power coming out of the 1st converter. Thinking the converter was the issue and it was late I went home and fired up the CWVRV search engine. Turns out the automatic relay in the converter was not kicking out and a small hand tap on the Progressive Dynamics converter did the trick. I will keep checking it but, hopefully, it was just sticky and will begin working on it's own after sitting for the last 3 years. It wasn't totally time wasted because when this is all said and done I should know the rig from front to back and top to bottom. ;)
LOL! And that good, old-fashioned "hand tap" would have cost about $350 by a mechanic. :)rotflmao
Glad you're enjoying it while you're toying with it. Never knew the Chief II had two converters! Hmmm... must be like Kevin, one for the right brain and one for the left....
:P
renovation looks great!!!! keep up the good work. man, i sure miss menard's!!
i saw that u replaced your stove...i was curious what the copper propane line going to it looked like when you pulled the old one, was it kinked anywhere?
reason i ask:
back when i was a pup of about 7, in 1968, we were on vacation in british columbia with a '64 winnebago travel trailer. woke up one morning and remember my dad outside the trailer literally hammering the side back in...the side the stove was on. found out later, dad lit the stoves oven at 6am to make breakfast and BOOM. boy, i could sleep thru ANYTHING back then, i miss that time...lol.
fast forward to 1983 and my dad and mom were on their way to las vegas in a '78 Itasca 25' motorhome they bought new in '79...in a campground while making dinner, mom lit the stoves oven and BOOM...it blew, and the only thing that saved the rig was the fact the water pump was turned on, and when the stove blew, the plastic water line broke and sprayed water all over the fire behind the stove putting it out.
at a non dealership service center in utah they took out the stove and wallaha, the propane line to the stove had been kinked from the factory.
dad saved receipts for EVERYTHING all his life, so a few months later on his way to the kentucky derby he swung by forrest city, told them of the problem, showed them receipts from the incident in 1968 as well as the latest, and here's what winnebago did...
they paid both receipts, took the itasca in and at their cost replaced the carpet that had been wet as well as some paneling that had been wet when the stove blew, and all the plastic water lines and new copper line to the stove as well as comping his rent at their park in forrest city while he stayed there.
thats (2) winnebago products in 1 family where the stoves oven blew due to a kink in the propane lines...while all rv manyfacturers make an access door or open access for the fridge and water heater, i wonder why they never made one for the stove...the stove is out, u attach the propane line and then push the stove in place...and copper is funny in that it doesn't form when forced very nice...u would think an access door would solve that problem...
so thats why i asked what your propane line to the stove looked like when u pulled it out...
i redid my countertops in my '78 chieftain last summer, and had the stove pulled out and raised slightly when i remembered this, so i pulled a little further...yup, my line had been slightly kinked "in" towards the wall, not 'out' as in i kinked it when sliding the stove out and up as well, tho i also must note that my oven looks like its never ever been used....i replaced the line.
i saw another post on here where refrigerators are a good source of fire in rv's...i think the stoves are kinda overlooked here...as in my families case, this is now (3) rv's with the same problem in my lifetime.
anyways, didn't mean for this to be so long, just wanted to ask what yours looked like outta curiosity and to give the other readers a heads up.
Thanks for the heads up on the LP line issues you have seen. I don't recall any kinks in the line but will double check prior to hooking anything up. I have been focusing on the engine swap so the interior work has been put on the back burner(intentional stove pun there). :laugh:
SPEAKING of the engine swap? Hm? Oh! took time off for Christmas did we :laugh:
That and the below freezing temps in the unheated shop that got me slowed down. :(
Sorry for the very late reply, but I havn't been on the site daily for a while. The renovations you have done look great. The table you asked about is 18" wide and 3' 6"' long. It uses two legs located 2' 6" apart. It stores vertically in the pantry in a dedicated slot next to the shelfs. The legs snap into holding brackets attached to the back of the front panel of the couch base, which folds down for access. The holes in the floor for the tubes, have round wood plugs with carpet glued to thier tops that go in when the table is not in use, and when in the holes are practically invisible.
Picture with floor plug in.
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Picture of plug removed:
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Picture of table stored in pantry:
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Picture of table set up for use:
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Heres everything needed, the legs are available in five length's, 15", 25 1/2", 27 1/2", 29 1/2", and 31 1/2". Should offer plenty of options to find the perfect height. The 15" ones would be perfect for use if you wanted to use the table as a coffee table, and switch to the taller legs when you wanted to make it into a dining table... that way you'd only need to store two legs, and not a whole table top.The floor base recepticle in mine is installed under the carpet, I believe they also routered a circle in the flooring so it could be installed flush with the floor, and not just screwed onto the top of it, as I cannot feel a difference in the flooring around the hole.
table mount:
http://www.campingworld.com/shopping/item/sequoia-table-leg-base-system-black-powder-coat-aluminum-table-base/57503 (http://www.campingworld.com/shopping/item/sequoia-table-leg-base-system-black-powder-coat-aluminum-table-base/57503) (black finish)
http://www.campingworld.com/shopping/item/surfit-table-leg-base-system-table-base/57505 (http://www.campingworld.com/shopping/item/surfit-table-leg-base-system-table-base/57505) (silver finish)
floor base mount:
http://www.campingworld.com/shopping/item/surfit-table-leg-base-system-floor-base/57506 (http://www.campingworld.com/shopping/item/surfit-table-leg-base-system-floor-base/57506)
table legs:
http://www.campingworld.com/shopping/item/table-leg-31-5-/40774 (http://www.campingworld.com/shopping/item/table-leg-31-5-/40774)
http://www.campingworld.com/shopping/item/table-leg-29-12-/7869 (http://www.campingworld.com/shopping/item/table-leg-29-12-/7869)
http://www.campingworld.com/shopping/item/table-leg-27-5-/40773 (http://www.campingworld.com/shopping/item/table-leg-27-5-/40773)
http://www.campingworld.com/shopping/item/table-leg-25-12-/7866 (http://www.campingworld.com/shopping/item/table-leg-25-12-/7866)
http://www.campingworld.com/shopping/item/table-leg-15-/7864 (http://www.campingworld.com/shopping/item/table-leg-15-/7864)
Interestingly, they now sell a premade snap in plug for the floor base.
http://www.campingworld.com/shopping/item/sequoia-table-leg-base-system-plastic-floor-base-cap/57504 (http://www.campingworld.com/shopping/item/sequoia-table-leg-base-system-plastic-floor-base-cap/57504)
Thanks for the info on the table. I do like the idea of having the option of two differents heights for the table. I've got a carpenter friend that said he can make me any size table I want and he has done the laminate overlays as well.
Laminate overlays are surprisingly easy. I did all my own (table, counter top, all cupboard, drawer and door facings, even the stove and refrigerator panels) and it was the first time I ever tried it and I didn't even look at a Lowe's tutorial on it!
Nice updates. I too love craigslist. thats where i got my beauty!!
my question/comment is I diddnt see it in your post, but do you have a picture of the new wood around the window? on first page of thread. i noticedyou put new stuff on bottom and top, but not around the window/sides..I got the old stuff off and waiting for the weekend to replace the wood on side of rv with door and window, So thought i would ask. i dont really want to have to take the window out.if possible??
I have more pictures on the 2nd page that covered the window openings. I did take the windows out. The framing for the window sandwiches everything together so I didn't really see away around it. I suppose you could do some kind of trim to hide the edges if you chose to not pull the windows. Seemed like more trouble than it was worth and I wanted to reseal the windows anyway.
Hope that answered your question.
Just a little update......
Started working on the interior a little bit. I was debating on pulling out the lower cabinets and putting in a different layout with some standard lower cabinets and countertops. After several weeks of measuring and planning I decided that was just too much effort for little gain. Last weekend I put the original cabinets back together because they had to come out to remove the old furnace. Still need to buy some new 10" drawer slides and pick up some new hinges and door pulls to spruce it up a little for starters and see how it goes. I have been considering adding some wood trim to the cabinet doors to give them the "shaker" style look instead of the flat panel. Planning to use one of the donor rigs cabinet doors as a test mule and see how that looks before going ahead.
Got the stove modifications to the original countertop about wrapped up by using some 3/4" aluminum trim for the edges and some oak board to fill the gap in the rear. Should look pretty decent when finished. Tonight started planning the building of the microwave cabinet over the stove. I have to buy a new 22" stainless range hood and remove the original one as it puts the microwave cabinet too close to the burners IMO.
Looking at some flooring at Lowes and Menards tommorow to get some ideas. I like the Allure vinyl floating floor from what I have read online but need to take a look at it in person. Wifey wants something in a tile look so that is the plan there.
I'll get some pics up as the work progresses.
I just installed 600' of that Allure Vinyl flooring in my grand parents house.....pretty neat stuff to work with...seems very durible...only 1/8" thick....easy on transitions...the only part I didn't really care for was having to make all your cuts with a paper knife...we all know what happens if the knife slips when making a cut!!!!!!!!!!!!! I highly recommend the product
Thanks for the info!
Got a chance to finish up most of the microwave cabinet today. Still have a little stain matching on the ends and such. I used some salvaged oak shelving from our house bathroom remodel. The pictures are not the best as the sun was shining in pretty good.
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This is how I filled in the gap behind the oven on the countertop. Used some more of the salvaged oak. The side pieces are the 3/4" aluminum channel that fit perfectly around the edge of the countertop to complete the transition.
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Still need to install a 22" stainless hood to finish the area off. The tape is there to mark off where that will be going.
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Here is what it used to look like. I am no carpenter but it is an improvement.
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Looks great!
Thanks! Plugging away one day at a time.
I think most are familiar with the dark paneling that was used in most of the RV's in the 1970's. While I did not mind it so much my wife cannot stand the dark closed in feeling it creates. The existing paneling is not seperating but does have a lot of surface damage and screws holes from years of use and missing parts here and there. With that said here is what I am working on now.
What everything is covered with.
(https://www.classicwinnebagos.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi880.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fac1%2FChargerman1969%2FWinnebago%2FIMG_20130829_170855Medium_zpsd81abe46.jpg&hash=50f27a838e2aec0697cb76ce8de6c9c744852727) (http://s880.photobucket.com/user/Chargerman1969/media/Winnebago/IMG_20130829_170855Medium_zpsd81abe46.jpg.html)
Here is what we are going to. It is a 1/8" paneling sold at Menards in a pattern similar to what is used in todays RV's. The paneling is an American Pacific product and the color is called Sahara. They also have another called Leather that I liked but it is a little darker. I might use some of that in the bath or bedroom.
http://www.menards.com/main/paint/paneling-planking/paneling/decorative/american-pacific-4-x-8-sahara-designer-plywood-panel/p-1497606-c-8169.htm
This is just being installed with paneling nails and under the window frames. I didn't want to glue this on in case someone wanted to bring back the original paneling in the future(I am weird that way). It is very easy to work with and all the cuts were made with a utility knife and straight edge. There is matching seam tape to blend in where any seams end up.
(https://www.classicwinnebagos.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi880.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fac1%2FChargerman1969%2FWinnebago%2FIMG_20130903_143607Medium_zps89fe9c20.jpg&hash=6476fbf84e364d9f49dcbfcbab53e11ef78f2317) (http://s880.photobucket.com/user/Chargerman1969/media/Winnebago/IMG_20130903_143607Medium_zps89fe9c20.jpg.html)
(https://www.classicwinnebagos.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi880.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fac1%2FChargerman1969%2FWinnebago%2FIMG_20130903_143550Medium_zps2a508b88.jpg&hash=d868ba2983fbca1dfd6bef3d0efb48ba13fb028d) (http://s880.photobucket.com/user/Chargerman1969/media/Winnebago/IMG_20130903_143550Medium_zps2a508b88.jpg.html)
(https://www.classicwinnebagos.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi880.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fac1%2FChargerman1969%2FWinnebago%2FIMG_20130903_143541Medium_zps9401b4da.jpg&hash=779fc0c07272e8cf0af7dcef4f438316897c9c44) (http://s880.photobucket.com/user/Chargerman1969/media/Winnebago/IMG_20130903_143541Medium_zps9401b4da.jpg.html)
(https://www.classicwinnebagos.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi880.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fac1%2FChargerman1969%2FWinnebago%2FIMG_20130903_143119Medium_zps1e8e2c9c.jpg&hash=77c9448f0ad14159f0e511f7f1819adef297776c) (http://s880.photobucket.com/user/Chargerman1969/media/Winnebago/IMG_20130903_143119Medium_zps1e8e2c9c.jpg.html)
(https://www.classicwinnebagos.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi880.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fac1%2FChargerman1969%2FWinnebago%2FIMG_20130903_143109Medium_zpsf309ae7f.jpg&hash=668ad28ee376345bb910a67d11d4af37284ab167) (http://s880.photobucket.com/user/Chargerman1969/media/Winnebago/IMG_20130903_143109Medium_zpsf309ae7f.jpg.html)
I haven't decided if I will cover the corner caps with matching seam tape or go to a wood corner trim.
(https://www.classicwinnebagos.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi880.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fac1%2FChargerman1969%2FWinnebago%2FIMG_20130903_143009Medium_zps3102a3f3.jpg&hash=cf1b005729afe029371dbdd5e412570e5e560466) (http://s880.photobucket.com/user/Chargerman1969/media/Winnebago/IMG_20130903_143009Medium_zps3102a3f3.jpg.html)
Here is where I am as I need to buy another sheet of paneling to finish the front. I really like how the light paneling makes the original upper cabinets stand out. It all just blended before.
(https://www.classicwinnebagos.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi880.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fac1%2FChargerman1969%2FWinnebago%2FIMG_20130903_143737Medium_zps52a5fe75.jpg&hash=2b4dea805726135771468a2a2f46438720446f1d) (http://s880.photobucket.com/user/Chargerman1969/media/Winnebago/IMG_20130903_143737Medium_zps52a5fe75.jpg.html)
I forgot to mention that with the light non wood paneling we have decided to go with a vinyl wood plank flooring in a darker color to match the original cabinets.
For a little flair my wife picked out this backsplash. It is not installed just taped up for now. It is a plastic product that can either be glued or installed with double sided tape. I think a little trimming in the corner will get me by instead of buying another piece. The stainless hood I am ordering will come down and cover the top edge.
(https://www.classicwinnebagos.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi880.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fac1%2FChargerman1969%2FWinnebago%2FIMG_20130903_144007Medium_zps800e4cfb.jpg&hash=5e1ebc4cd5c1a548a7987fd06fca8674a63e8b69) (http://s880.photobucket.com/user/Chargerman1969/media/Winnebago/IMG_20130903_144007Medium_zps800e4cfb.jpg.html)
(https://www.classicwinnebagos.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi880.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fac1%2FChargerman1969%2FWinnebago%2FIMG_20130903_144019Medium_zps72c3c100.jpg&hash=58e001f8ce3af6d3273a10b407750786c68695ba) (http://s880.photobucket.com/user/Chargerman1969/media/Winnebago/IMG_20130903_144019Medium_zps72c3c100.jpg.html)
WOW! That's coming along nicely. Very rich looking. Your wife has excellent taste. :)ThmbUp
I absolutely LOVE that splashback! Looks pretty cool! What is that material?
Thanks guys!
Coachman, this is a link to the backsplash. They have matching corner trim and edges to finish it off.
http://www.menards.com/main/paint/paneling-planking/fasade/fasade-18-x-24-backsplash-panel-ripples/p-1723048-c-8163.htm
Wow, I nearly forgot about Menards! I used to go to Menards in Minnesota (Richfield to be exact) for stuff when I lived there a while back.
They're a good store concentrated solely in the mid-west which is why I forgot about them. Been living on west side of America for the better part of a long time..
I'll try to post a few more pictures of the progress. It's been slow as this winter has been miserable temperature wise. Hard to get much done in the last couple months. Hopefully, the temps have finally turned the corner and I can get back at it.
Waiting .....
Waiting .....
Still waiting ..... :)rotflmao
I thought he was GottaWinnie now.. :D
Still waiting! i??
Tough crowd...I'm still young enough that I had to go pickup my kid from school. :P
In the rear bedroom....the water tanks took up a lot of floor space. They are coming out for a newer tank and pump.
(https://www.classicwinnebagos.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi880.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fac1%2FChargerman1969%2FWinnebago%2FNCM_0069_zpsc38e39ad.jpg&hash=58f78308f6c9f599af588afd45d094167a5ce6f0) (http://s880.photobucket.com/user/Chargerman1969/media/Winnebago/NCM_0069_zpsc38e39ad.jpg.html)
Newer tank and pump you say... Hm?
Pretty common. I was lucky that the "Chariot" had pressurized system had already been replaced. A very simple swap out, really. Had a square, plastic tank and on-demand pump. It fit just peachy under the rear goucho, like this appears to be.
LP tanks are on the right side.
(https://www.classicwinnebagos.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi880.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fac1%2FChargerman1969%2FWinnebago%2FNCM_0070_zps4d293136.jpg&hash=a026155a288878e67acce2b9fb9b8aff385fdf41) (http://s880.photobucket.com/user/Chargerman1969/media/Winnebago/NCM_0070_zps4d293136.jpg.html)
Generator compartment is on the left.
(https://www.classicwinnebagos.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi880.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fac1%2FChargerman1969%2FWinnebago%2FNCM_0071_zps4f5ed48b.jpg&hash=b20747e65f8cdbe4eefeade83e2079b5af86d624) (http://s880.photobucket.com/user/Chargerman1969/media/Winnebago/NCM_0071_zps4f5ed48b.jpg.html)
A stand alone loo. How unique.
Old water tanks removed and the new tank and pump that will be going in. I had to relocate the converter mounted on the floor by a few inches in order to fit the new tank in. Pretty simple and it was just screwed down to the floor.
(https://www.classicwinnebagos.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi880.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fac1%2FChargerman1969%2FWinnebago%2FNCM_0072_zps02ba4613.jpg&hash=4f1acbe529410ebeab2bd67616905bcfa7a6e778) (http://s880.photobucket.com/user/Chargerman1969/media/Winnebago/NCM_0072_zps02ba4613.jpg.html)
The pump is a Shurflo Unit that was in my parts rig. Tested it out and it pumps good.
(https://www.classicwinnebagos.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi880.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fac1%2FChargerman1969%2FWinnebago%2FNCM_0074_zpsae5bb020.jpg&hash=0720e9fdc7b6e84a827e775965d66f0868532e8d) (http://s880.photobucket.com/user/Chargerman1969/media/Winnebago/NCM_0074_zpsae5bb020.jpg.html)
Found this on Craigslist. It is out of a 2012 travel trailer and included a table and leg with floor mount. It's going in the rear room to make a nice area to hang out or eat. It converts to a bed for sleeping.
(https://www.classicwinnebagos.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi880.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fac1%2FChargerman1969%2FWinnebago%2FNCM_0075_zpsaa8f6613.jpg&hash=0b18e28fa724f4786f5d42fc2180d4addf7f5dd3) (http://s880.photobucket.com/user/Chargerman1969/media/Winnebago/NCM_0075_zpsaa8f6613.jpg.html)
Okay... wow, just.... wow... ???
I removed everything from the back room and laid down a new subfloor. (also cut and access panel to the fuel sender on the gas tank while I was there for future)
The new water tank fit nicely tucked under the dinette. The relocated converter is also in the pic. I had to make up some new supports for the seats and trim the left side of the dinette to clear the generator box.
(https://www.classicwinnebagos.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi880.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fac1%2FChargerman1969%2FWinnebago%2FNCM_0107_zps4d219e77.jpg&hash=0bec000fd1f3c482e0cbc9fff127b5b07fd25792) (http://s880.photobucket.com/user/Chargerman1969/media/Winnebago/NCM_0107_zps4d219e77.jpg.html)
Here is the right side which will give me a little extra storage eventually.
(https://www.classicwinnebagos.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi880.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fac1%2FChargerman1969%2FWinnebago%2FNCM_0111_zps3fc389d9.jpg&hash=5382845fb0ac137a6c384af283487856496435f2) (http://s880.photobucket.com/user/Chargerman1969/media/Winnebago/NCM_0111_zps3fc389d9.jpg.html)
Dinette installed with removable panels under the cushions for access to everything.
(https://www.classicwinnebagos.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi880.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fac1%2FChargerman1969%2FWinnebago%2FNCM_0116_zps38a22dc4.jpg&hash=9982851f3a103c9983d6f88237af109ae2c5571a) (http://s880.photobucket.com/user/Chargerman1969/media/Winnebago/NCM_0116_zps38a22dc4.jpg.html)
More of the dinette.
(https://www.classicwinnebagos.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi880.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fac1%2FChargerman1969%2FWinnebago%2FNCM_0115_zps303bc1ca.jpg&hash=6b99692b4c25022a99acc0924bc0137e31966b57) (http://s880.photobucket.com/user/Chargerman1969/media/Winnebago/NCM_0115_zps303bc1ca.jpg.html)
The dinette is just short by about 6" on length which works out well as the table and leg will be stored there when not in use.
(https://www.classicwinnebagos.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi880.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fac1%2FChargerman1969%2FWinnebago%2FNCM_0114_zpsaf43c9ce.jpg&hash=154e86b9fcd4afbe45b37f8116f7604a28efeb2f) (http://s880.photobucket.com/user/Chargerman1969/media/Winnebago/NCM_0114_zpsaf43c9ce.jpg.html)
Worked on some more of the paneling in the bath as well. These pics are not the greatest because of the lighting and small area. It is the same style paneling as the front of the coach.
(https://www.classicwinnebagos.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi880.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fac1%2FChargerman1969%2FWinnebago%2FNCM_0118_zps8be5c7ea.jpg&hash=ca7181614d01315ae938040a087236c4720ff749) (http://s880.photobucket.com/user/Chargerman1969/media/Winnebago/NCM_0118_zps8be5c7ea.jpg.html)
Need to install a new mirror or maybe a medicine cabinet in this area.
(https://www.classicwinnebagos.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi880.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fac1%2FChargerman1969%2FWinnebago%2FNCM_0117_zps0f400e75.jpg&hash=b86a0e6eb67b975436020b2df210bf9c2305a18c) (http://s880.photobucket.com/user/Chargerman1969/media/Winnebago/NCM_0117_zps0f400e75.jpg.html)
Brightens up the room quite a bit actually.
(https://www.classicwinnebagos.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi880.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fac1%2FChargerman1969%2FWinnebago%2FNCM_0119_zps71d9f345.jpg&hash=7e6f7d8add2a8a0107faa9d1c5204f207bc72fc8) (http://s880.photobucket.com/user/Chargerman1969/media/Winnebago/NCM_0119_zps71d9f345.jpg.html)
Again, sorry about the blurry pics.
(https://www.classicwinnebagos.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi880.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fac1%2FChargerman1969%2FWinnebago%2FNCM_0123_zps79273d97.jpg&hash=0c1c86d86a4fac6a59dccb70e902c2f274ce3d97) (http://s880.photobucket.com/user/Chargerman1969/media/Winnebago/NCM_0123_zps79273d97.jpg.html)
This is the last one for now. I like how the paneling makes the cabinets stand out instead of blending in with a wall of matching grain. It seems to modernize it yet keep the original feel at the same time.
(https://www.classicwinnebagos.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi880.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fac1%2FChargerman1969%2FWinnebago%2FNCM_0122_zps798c448e.jpg&hash=eb18c6cc854ab9860a873129e7f6ad7dca06231a) (http://s880.photobucket.com/user/Chargerman1969/media/Winnebago/NCM_0122_zps798c448e.jpg.html)
I likey! :)ThmbUp :)
Yes!! Excellent!
very nice and a major improvement in the bathroom, I cant believe it was all the same color. Yuck!
Looking good!
Kev
It's been awhile but I'm still around. :)ThmbUp
After getting the rear brakes and axles all gone through it was time to take the journey for the flooring updates. We decided on carpeting and a heavy pad for the front of the rig for sound deadening and some comfort. We found a remnant the was called Indian Summer and felt it looked nice and would hide dirt and stains that will eventually happen. We have a Chieftain but Indian name was close enough for us. :) Dynomat was installed on the engine cover and the front section under the seats as well to further help with noise and heat.
(https://www.classicwinnebagos.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi880.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fac1%2FChargerman1969%2FWinnebago%2FNewfloor1_zps1a5c15c8.jpg&hash=9d2788dd2fa0e9b649026af550d891b90368b017) (http://s880.photobucket.com/user/Chargerman1969/media/Winnebago/Newfloor1_zps1a5c15c8.jpg.html)
(https://www.classicwinnebagos.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi880.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fac1%2FChargerman1969%2FWinnebago%2FNewfloor5_zps43bd5234.jpg&hash=60467f4f146b333dc012ffae484c0cdcbc304b37) (http://s880.photobucket.com/user/Chargerman1969/media/Winnebago/Newfloor5_zps43bd5234.jpg.html)
In the kitchen and bath area we went with vinyl plank in a wood pattern.
(https://www.classicwinnebagos.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi880.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fac1%2FChargerman1969%2FWinnebago%2FNewfloor6_zps69da3f29.jpg&hash=a8f73cb32ce2d3157d64f5c87b9f198e2e72de62) (http://s880.photobucket.com/user/Chargerman1969/media/Winnebago/Newfloor6_zps69da3f29.jpg.html)
(https://www.classicwinnebagos.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi880.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fac1%2FChargerman1969%2FWinnebago%2FNewfloor2_zps7b14479c.jpg&hash=90f9c80f5e68f8603da216a45d1681766bfdf9c3) (http://s880.photobucket.com/user/Chargerman1969/media/Winnebago/Newfloor2_zps7b14479c.jpg.html)
We followed up with matching carpet in the rear bedroom.
(https://www.classicwinnebagos.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi880.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fac1%2FChargerman1969%2FWinnebago%2FNewfloor4_zpsf823f7bb.jpg&hash=0a134f22bb1abba6ab6b0e1550da1d3f44b291bd) (http://s880.photobucket.com/user/Chargerman1969/media/Winnebago/Newfloor4_zpsf823f7bb.jpg.html)
Now that the flooring is done I can finish the trim work around the doors and the baseboards. Then on to window coverings and a few other finishing touches. :)clap
The flooring and carpet look so nice! You're doing an excellent job!
Very nice :)ThmbUp :)ThmbUp
Amazing, absolutely amazing. What an inspiration to others. I love the colors. It makes the rig look rich. At this rate she's going to be one classy looking rig when your done. Well done Mate. :)ThmbUp
Figured an update was well overdue.
I've made some good progress on the rig. The entire water system plumbing has been replaced with PEX pipe on both the hot and cold sides. I put in a main shut off valve coming in and a diverter valve to fill the fresh water tank from inside the rig. After that there are valves to shut off the kitchen, shower, hot water heater, and outside shower hose. Shut off valves were also installed to the other side of the rig to the toilet and bathroom sink. If you noticed I mentioned an outside shower hose, yep added that.
There was an old furnace under the kitchen cabinets that was removed leaving the intake/exhaust port unused on the outside.
(https://www.classicwinnebagos.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi880.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fac1%2FChargerman1969%2FWinnebago%2FNCM_0816_zpsm8pfe5z0.jpg&hash=8ad5b5b6345379483f610b93d6d393f18346fc9c) (http://s880.photobucket.com/user/Chargerman1969/media/Winnebago/NCM_0816_zpsm8pfe5z0.jpg.html)
Seemed like a convenient spot to add something and the plumbing was right there.
(https://www.classicwinnebagos.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi880.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fac1%2FChargerman1969%2FWinnebago%2FNCM_0819_zpss9i1zxuk.jpg&hash=1c36ed0fdbb7f307125d66b08aa3f53a6c3b47e8) (http://s880.photobucket.com/user/Chargerman1969/media/Winnebago/NCM_0819_zpss9i1zxuk.jpg.html)
Made the cutout
(https://www.classicwinnebagos.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi880.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fac1%2FChargerman1969%2FWinnebago%2FNCM_0820_zpszjppkupl.jpg&hash=a21929b065ee1f1a949c075d9378559e389b2da3) (http://s880.photobucket.com/user/Chargerman1969/media/Winnebago/NCM_0820_zpszjppkupl.jpg.html)
Voila, outside faucet for cleaning off our dirty whatever.
(https://www.classicwinnebagos.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi880.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fac1%2FChargerman1969%2FWinnebago%2FNCM_0822_zpsyvoroghp.jpg&hash=890d3f1889f7ab1694db81596e2806a82bc60bd4) (http://s880.photobucket.com/user/Chargerman1969/media/Winnebago/NCM_0822_zpsyvoroghp.jpg.html)
After installing the outside shower I got the drain for the freshwater tank made out of 1/2" CPVC so it can be drained without crawling under the rig. The toilet is installed and working. A new inside shower faucet was installed, all the kitchen cabinet drawer slides were replaced, and the built in vacuum cleaner was reinstalled. The on demand water pump is wired up and plumbed in to the freshwater system. I was able to use the original water pump switch and control panel by doing a little wiring modifying. Pump kicks in nice and shuts off at the proper pressure. The control panel still powers up for the tanks but there are no sensors on the stainless black and grey water tanks right now.
Next up was the LP system and appliances. These were bought in like new but used condition off craigslist so all bets were off on them working. I was able to connect the new fridge with a simple flare union, the stove needed a different size screw in flare fitting installed so that was easy, the hot water heater line needed to be cut and a new female flare fitting installed to hook up. After running some 12V wires to the fridge it lit up and runs off propane or AC power (yeah!), the stove burners bled out the air in the line and then lit up, the oven pilot lit up and the burner then fired up great, (2 for 2, yeah!) Next up was the automatic pilot 10 gallon water heater. I went to a local RV center and bought a remote water heater switch with warning light, got a wiring diagram off the net, and wired it up. Flipped the switch and the power came on, heard a little ticking from the pilot and it fired up. (woohoo! 3 for 3) Last up was the furnace, a newer one that came with the rig when I bought it. Didn't do anything but turn up the thermostat and it kicked in and started blowing heat. Nice! 4 for 4 and no leaks. Good job done.
:)ThmbUp
Adding a shut off valve to each component utilizing incoming water is a great idea, and one that you may come to appreciate down the "road". I did the same and later had a kitchen sink connection problem. I was able to shut that line off while maintaining water to everything else - bathroom sink, toilet, water heater and shower. Far more convenient than shutting down the entire water system to repair.
A fair amount of work in itself, but highly recommended if you are doing plumbing repair.
As to tank level sensors, I think most will advise you do not rely on them alone. Experience works well. Some info on them is here:
http://www.andybaird.com/Eureka/pages/gauges.htm
Terry
The renovation is nearly complete, if they are ever truly complete that is.
Here are some pictures of the completed project.
I installed a fold out couch with queen air mattress and made a custom electric fireplace.
Some pics of the kitchen area, found an original blender for the one that was missing to go with the built in power unit. My Winnebago key holder has been quite useful also.
19 inch flat screen installed and hooked to a new Winegard booster antennae. Going to run a 110 outlet up into the cabinet so the cord doesn't hang down like it does now.
New larger fridge replaced the old original.
Installed a medicine cabinet in the bathroom.
Rear U shaped dinette in place. Made a storage area for the table and legs for when it's not in use. Relocated the mirror to the other side so my wife can sit and do makeup, etc.
WOW!!! You should quite your day job! :)ThmbUp Nice work.
Thanks! I see all my older pictures here were Photobucket linked as well. Great!! Lol
Another company I hope to see fall off the face of the earth. $@!#@!
:)ThmbUp WOW! That is one beautiful job you've done. Your going to have a lot of fun showing it off. :)clap Well dome mate, well done.