Sent: 10/28/2008
Here is a detailed photo album of my D24 Indian, "Wilbur", roof replacement from tear-down to re-build. Curved trusses were used to cure the "flat roof syndrome" and a number of other modifications made to improve upon the original design. Very detailed photos of every aspect and phase.
A must see!
https://web.archive.org/web/20160318170422/http://picasaweb.google.com/109641835469071142409/1973WinnebagoIndianRoofReplacement (https://web.archive.org/web/20160318170422/http://picasaweb.google.com/109641835469071142409/1973WinnebagoIndianRoofReplacement)
(https://www.classicwinnebagos.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Flh6.ggpht.com%2F_8ppiUHCQPiI%2FSG7WFODbrTI%2FAAAAAAAAAjw%2F94Y7VXsv4EU%2Fs512%2FP1220274.JPG&hash=0afd691be3adc2cdca93b5a9f39b74be124df3fb)
This will be a great resource when I need to tackle my '75 Brave in the spring. What did you use for ply? And what is on the ply? (Just primered and painted with the snow roof stuff?)
I used 1/2" plywood and only the snow roof products over the ply. There is a seam tape to be used on the edges of the ply with the undercoat material. Sorry no free gifts other than the pictures and advice, Les
When I finally find my old backup disks of all the pictures we had on the old site of The Ark (before sucky MSN put on photo limits and I had to pare down my albums) I'll have to post pics of how NOT to repair a roof...lol! Outstanding job, Les!
Fortunately our 77 Itasca still has a perfect roof with absolutely no sags at all. The original owner had owned other flat roof Winnies before he bought the Itasca new in 77, so he wisely added a crossmember and roof support at the front AC unit...the back AC unit is so close to structural walls (the closet on one side and the corner of the bathroom on the other) that it needed no further support. Also, I guess, at least with the newer nose style they started using on the Itasca line in 77, they no longer used seamed panels on the roof...the roof is one solid smooth sheet of aluminum...no corrugations and no seams.
We I bought it 2 years ago, it had never even been coated...with ANYthing...its whole life! Of course, most of that life was spent in Death Valley, so Excalibur hardly ever saw any rain.
The first thing I did when I bought her was to scrub the roof down with TSP, rinse it off clean, let it dry, sealed every vent and whatnot with Acylic Seam Sealer (Kool Seal brand), and then coated the roof with several coats of white Kool Seal. No leaks from the roof to date, and I finally tracked down the leak over the dashboard...water was coming in through one of the front marker lights!
Anyway, I'm rambling again...AWESOME job Les!
Kev
Les
Thanks for all your help on this one...Alan is half way through with putting on the plywood on the top. We have purchased sheet aluminum and we are going to place that on top of the plywood afterwards....it is all one piece of aluminum...and then we will work on the coating. You and Wilbur have been a life saver!
Donna
Quote from: ohhmom on February 18, 2009, 11:50 PM
We have purchased sheet aluminum and we are going to place that on top of the plywood afterwards....it is all one piece of aluminum...and then we will work on the coating.
Donna
So where did you buy the aluminum, size, thickness and the big question, how much did it cost? I am sure others want to know, Les
The aluminum was bought at Great Dane it is 105 inches wide and you could get whatever length that you wanted. This is the same aluminum that is used for tractor trailer roofs. The cost...after bargaining....was $217 for a 17 foot piece. Alan liked this best because there are NO SEAMS therefore less chance of roof leaks.
hi dude
you have been my inspiration to tear off my old roof and tackle the replacement as an engineering project instead of good ol carpentry, basically it involves 15each 2"X1"X16gauge rectangular steel box section spanning the width of my 25' chieftain. They were cambered to about 3" at the centres on a power roller. A central and two side bearers tacked to the existing angle section (MIG welder) I then clad the roof with 16gauge structural aluminium alloy. NO metal fixings, all bonded down with SIKAFLEX 291 structural polyurethane panel adhesive and insulated on the inside with 3/4" celotex board.......not bad for a foreigner living in the UK ?
Am I to understand that you put plywood over this rib structure, and painted with Kool Seal primer followed by Kool Seal elastomeric?
Just trying to understand the process... as my 75 Indian is currently a convertible... this might steer me a different way.
I'd never considered losing the metal altogether.
Impressive collection of photos. :)ThmbUp
Thanks,
Bill
I used plywood with the snow roof http://www.snowroof.com/ (http://www.snowroof.com/) product. I think it works great and is something I can repair if a tree limb or something tries to go thru it. No metal is on the roof.
Greetings,
Just wondering how this repair has held up over the past couple of years? Would you do the same if you had to it all over again? I recently purchased a 1975 19' Winnebago and need to do the same type of repair.
Thanks
My roof still looks great. Of course I park mine in the garage when not using it. A nice thing about the roofing I used was when I replaced roof vents I just cut out the old vents and sealed over the new ones with the same roofing. Some members really like the rubber sheet roofing or using aluminum. I would use the same stuff again if I get another classic with a rotten roof. Hope that helps. Les
I too copied Les's roof design, except I put rubber roofing on top. Going on 4 years no leaks, actually it would be pretty hard for it to leak. (knock on virtual wood)
And on the next winnie, rotten roof or not, it'll be getting the same roof replacement. :D
I love you post some time i want to give my roof a more round look like the sheep wagons and put solar panels and add a more permeant sleeping space above the drivers compartment. I have ideas but I have no idea how like the round things I have never built any thing. I am figuring out the wiring so there my be hope..
So any Ideas how to make round thingys for the roof...
Peace
This post is a bit old but I have a couple questions. (If ya remember) :D
First: How wide are the trusses?
Second: How high are they at the edge? (I swear I saw this someplace but I searched for an hr and can't find it.)
I' just purchased 74 Chieftain that could use a new roof. I plan on using a CNC router to cut out the trusses from 1/2 in ply and sandwich them together (3 thick i suppose).
I'd climb up and check myself but the RV is not accessable at the moment and I want to get a few ideas pounded out. I also want to have everything ready before I start tearing things apart.
I'll start a new post about the project if anyone is interested (maybe even share files).
Thanks
Mike
2 (http://thenetbytes.com/PIX/?Qwd=./1972%20Winnebago/External/The%20new%20Roof%21&Qif=t1.jpg&Qiv=thumbs&Qis=M)x4s were used for the trusses. They are cut to look like an arch. I just used a saber saw. The ends are 3/4 inch, the centers are the full height of the 2x4. To make a tapered/dome affect to the roof, the last truss from the ends are only 2 inches high. For the top, I used 1/4 plywood, it formed nice and is light. Then I glued rubber EDPM on top. I used carpet glue, because I'm cheap, I also glued Styrofoam to the backside for insulation.
(https://www.classicwinnebagos.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fthenetbytes.com%2FPIX%2F1972%2520Winnebago%2FExternal%2FThe%2520new%2520Roof%2521%2Ft1.jpg&hash=c7652fc36e29531b6615f1a945bda48005c07511)
(https://www.classicwinnebagos.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fthenetbytes.com%2FPIX%2F1972%2520Winnebago%2FExternal%2FThe%2520new%2520Roof%2521%2Ft6.jpg&hash=5ef36268445f96bc31b7d0f38be5b75288bc3680)
(https://www.classicwinnebagos.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fthenetbytes.com%2FPIX%2F1972%2520Winnebago%2FExternal%2FThe%2520new%2520Roof%2521%2Ft7.jpg&hash=8bc993bac2431e478908ea31d1dcd7bce9489d1f)
(https://www.classicwinnebagos.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fthenetbytes.com%2FPIX%2F1972%2520Winnebago%2FExternal%2FThe%2520new%2520Roof%2521%2Ft8.jpg&hash=f8e245c192c359acd7135594d96d353b7209cff3)
(Later I replaced the black EDPM with WHITE, the black got rather hot in the sun and was hard to keep the RV cool inside. )
(https://www.classicwinnebagos.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fthenetbytes.com%2FPIX%2Fqdig-files%2Fconverted-images%2F1972%2520Winnebago%2FInternal%2FNew%2520Wood%2520Work%2Fmed_BunkFront2.jpg&hash=5adde7ac7594beb91f4783e1efad93ee75680cf2)
This is the beauty of working on classic RVs - when it comes to coach work, you don't have to be fancy, you don't have to be a skilled carpenter, and your work doesn't have to be perfect to achieve the desired results!
Looks great! Nice work!
Went to the camper today and was able to take some measurements.
Span - 7 feet 9 1/2 inches
Front curve to rear - 24 feet 10 1/2 inches
Your guys's roofs look great, lets hope mine turns out half as nice.
I'll start a new thread soon as I get things rolling.
Thanks again,
Mike
Sweet.... take good pix and thorough notes to share an put it on the Projects board!
:) :)ThmbUp
One last question.
Are there any detailed pics of the front? What did ya do under the "flap" section?
Thanks Again,
Mike
Nice work! I wish I had known about this site before I replaced the roof on my 74 Chieftan last fall. Took a weeks vacation and my Dad and I tore into it without really researching anything. I just joined so not sure how to add links to my album that shows some pics of my roof redo. I will try to add a picture or link. http://www.classicwinnebagos.com/forum/index.php?action=mgallery;sa=album;id=511 (http://www.classicwinnebagos.com/forum/index.php?action=mgallery;sa=album;id=511)
Bryce
ibdilbert01, where did you get the epdm and did you glue it directly to the wood roof? I recently finished up my wood roof replacement and have just used white snowcoat roofing as of right now but have thought about going with the epdm ontop of it, as now would be the perfect time to do it because I have no vent holes or a/c unit on yet.
link in first post no longer works
That's the problem with old posts with off-site images. They change, the poster no longer uses the site and the account is deleted, etc. etc. But, there's still a LOT of useful information in the content of the topic.
I really like what he did there but im not sure i want the curved look on the roof. i really cannot find any pics of a roof replacement done flat though. there doesnt seem to be much there for a roof to begin with and having trusses seems like a great idea. I was thinking even steel 1x1 box tubing . im a fabricator so metal is easier for me than wood anyway. i havent seen anybody using fiberglass on the outside either. Wonder why? My 1995 winnebago brave has a fiberglass roof. I think that would definatly be the best for the outside. I would love to be able to walk up there when it was done
I got my inspiration from the Handier Man.
http://www.classicwinnebagos.com/forum/index.php/topic,10111.msg57260.html (http://www.classicwinnebagos.com/forum/index.php/topic,10111.msg57260.html)
I fiberglassed over 2 layers of 5mm ply. I used epoxy resin and 8 oz. cloth. If you are going to re-roof, it really makes sense to curve it. A flat roof is just an invitation to leak. Winnebago finally started to curve their roofs in the late 80's -early 90's, I think.
Take an 8' piece of your 1x1 steel tubing and put each end on a block of wood or whatever. Try walking on the tubing. See how much it flexes-especially if it is 1/16 or 1/8 wall.
that looks great! my 95 winnebago has a curved roof and ive walked all over it. 2 questions, how close together did you put the truss pieces and how does it blend in the front being it was flat and its going to a curve? i see the back in your pic and it looks awesome!
im not opposed to using wood at all! whatever is best and easiest!
The pics didn't look very well, maybe cause they were hi-def and the system reduces it? I don't know.
Anyways, they are on 16" centers. They are 2x4's that taper to 1 1/4. I did leave the center 16" flat, so the angle doesn't start right on the centerline. I wanted it that way so I was putting the vent and (more importantly) the A/C on a flat and not the center point of 2 angled surfaces. The bath vent is on the angle and it works fine. The front 3 frames I gradually reduced the overall height to help blend better. Again, I think I got that from Handier Man's write up. Can't remember if I changed the angles too...it was a couple years ago now.
Steel would work if it is strong enough. Remember to watch the weight of your roof. You want it as light as possible so you're not exceding the GVW.
I originally was just going to use the 5mm (1/4"). But when I walked on it, it flexed way too much. So rather than returning the plywood and getting 1/2" (it was delivered and I don't have truck), I just doubled up on it and it made it much stiffer. The fiberglass helped too. I can feel a little give when I walk up there, but nothing bad. Again, take some 2x4x8's, put them on the ground 16" apart. Throw a piece of 1/4" ext. plywood on it and walk on it. See what feels acceptable. You're probably only going to go up there to do maintenance anyway.
I did something very similar to Brian, based on the Handier Man repair. I took 2x4s, left the center 18 inches flat, then tapered them down. Mine were less then 1 1/4 though, because the total space above my wall was about that. So my tapered down to a little more then half an inch. They were spaced 16 inches, though I wish I had done 12. I then cribbed the 2x4s together.
I used plastic shower board for my internal ceiling, and i slid it under the 2x4 frame work before screwing it to the framework. I then sealed all around the interior of the framework with urethane foam and filled the cavities with foil backed styrofoam insulation. I then used 1/2 inch CDX decking for the top layer, and eternabond taped the seams and perimeter before coating the whole rooftop in more then 5 gallons of liquid epdm.
Fiberglassing would be better then the eternabond tape, and a true EPDM roof or aluminum cover or both would be better then the liquid I used. That being said, we are going on two years and I haven't had a problem with it.
If an when I have to do it again though, I have an idea to use stop sign posts or similar and build the frame structure out of that. I could then put cdx decking over it, flip it over, cut foam insulation to fit, and then paneling or whatever for the interior ceiling. Then fiberglass and an aluminum roof cover. on the top.
That's a good idea going 12" on center. It would only add a couple 2x4's and would help with stiffening the roof. If I remember correctly, I think I went with 1 1/4 at the end because that's how much room I had left to the top of the sidewall. I had gone in and replaced the 2x2 perimeter plate that sits on top of the styrofoam in the sidewall.
Go curved/arched. Even a 1/2 inch rise in center will facilitate water runoff, and we know how water wants to go down :) . Better down and to the OUTside than down to the inside.
In my area Lowes has some beautiful clear pine (not the stuff in the shelving area). Stable, straight, and light weight. Chemicals have come a LONG way since a 73 Brave was built, and you can turn that pine into something that sure the heck will outlive you with the sealers and glues available today.
awesome! thanks for the replies!
Brian: I (for some reason) wanted the edge of the top layer of my roof to be more or less even with where it was, and that meant leaving room for the 1/2 inch cdx, and subtracting for the thickness of the 2x2 ring underneath. So I think mine came out to around 3/4 on the end. Either I goofed or my math was off, because it's still slightly higher then the top of the wall.
ok started to pull the roof off and now i see exactly whats there. i had thought there wa a piece of wood on top of the wall that i could screw the trusses down to. That's not the case!. I looked at those pics again and see how you put 1x2s in between the trusses. how did you screw them together? I can see doing the one end before the next board goes in but then what?
After looking at my photos, I realized I was wrong in what I said in a previous post.. The "sill plate" (2x2 pressure treated) ended up being flush (aprox.) with the top of the wall. I then layed the ceiling (5 mm ply from Lowe's) on top that. Then the 2x4 joists went across screwed/glued into the sill plate at each end, and staples/glue from the ceiling into the joist. As you noticed, I put filler pieces (actually 1 1/2x 1 1/4) in between each joist. Fiberglass cloth came down over that and met the aluminum siding. The joint between the two was covered with the gutter extrusion.
I don't know what to suggest if you don't have any wood to screw into. How is the roof currently held on?
The roof was stapled thru the alum side walls up underneath the drip rails. Im confused as what you did. There is 1 1/8" above the Styrofoam in the wall to the top of the aluminum in the wall. In would assume you screwed,the trusses to the alum side wall and then just put braces in between?
Maybe this photo would help.
(https://www.classicwinnebagos.com/forum/MGalleryItem.php?id=6727)
The plywood you see is the ceiling. If you look by the handle of the caulking gun, you can just make out a little bit of the pressure treated sill plate peeking thru. I found that nothing was perfectly square or even. The construction of yours may be a little different. When I started working on the roof, I realized someone had put a second roof on top of the old one! As you can see in the photo, someone had added on a couple feet to the rear of the coach. So, there is a lot of spooky things going on with this Winnie. I've been working for 12 years on this motorhome, trying to undo a lot of previous owner's hacks. Yours may be more like the handier man's. Look at his photos too.
Ok I see what you did! Thanks! Yea that's not the way its supose to be. The trusses cannot be higher than the alum side. Yours is just done a bit different. I wish I could do it like yours! Well at least it makes sense to me now. Thanks!
It can be done that way. The connecting edge trim doesn't have to be OEM. You can get formed aluminum any size needed to do the job. Thinking outside the box is the salvation of vintage Rvers.
My best friend and I had quite the argument, because he wanted to do something similar to what Brian did, whereas I wanted it to look as close to stock as possible. The final result is somewhere in between. My original trim fits, but I need a longer ladder due to the arch of the roof.
Assuming you mean the original rear ladder, a new one would be pricey, and possibly require new mount locations for the stand - offs, new holes in the outside skin. If you've done this much work maybe consider relocating the bottom ladder brackets. Or, extending the lower end of the ladder with alum. flat bar or angle. Assume you only need a few inches of extension. Pics would help.
Hi Terry! I'll get pictures, but it may be this weekend. It's only off by an inch or so; basically, the bottom holes of my mount are at the top mounting holes. I was thinking if I could find a marine ladder r some other form of adjustable/sectioned ladder I could line the mounting holes up, and then drill and secure the attachments
if im thinking right you could just cut and re weld on the top 2 brackets on the ladder to fit the roof properly. wouldnt be hard at all
My opinion:
Generally brackets and stand offs are fastened with thru bolts. This allows for adjustment as required for height, plane and fastening variances. Welding would render any adjustment moot. I have never seen any joint, bracket or stand off on a rear ladder or roof rack with a weld. Most parts are removable and replaceable. Would be difficult if they/it were welded.
Hi Terry,
Here is a picture of my ladder.
http://imgur.com/a/PGy3I (http://imgur.com/a/PGy3I)
To me, the easiest and least costly would be to get a couple of pieces of 1/8" alum flat bar wider and higher than the existing mounts, enough to cover the old holes. Drill the new pieces with pass holes to match the four screws in each bracket. Fill the old holes and then use the flat bar between the coach and bracket and fasten all using your fastening location as per photo. If you want it to look like it belongs use one piece to span both sides. Any sheet metal shop would have all kinds of cut offs and can shear to what you want.
Sounds good! I'm planning to clean up that area in the next month. I'll try to remember to post after shots.
Found the pics on the wayback machine :)clap
https://web.archive.org/web/20160318170422/http://picasaweb.google.com/109641835469071142409/1973WinnebagoIndianRoofReplacement
Cool. I replaced the link in the original post.
Thanks!
Help, I have one of these that needs a little roof help and I have no idea who to contact? A roofing company ya think??
Hello and welcome! Most of these flat roof RVs have roof issues when people buy them. However, a better description exactly what a little roof help is would be helpful. Problems range from leaks around the air conditioner and vents, roof seams and just resealing to major roof repair. All are already well covered here in previous topics.
But no, a roofing company is not a business which does RV roofs.
Most people do it themselves, mostly due to the cost of having someone else do it.
An RV shop would be the place if you can't do it yourself.
Quote from: audioguyinMI on July 27, 2009, 03:16 PMAm I to understand that you put plywood over this rib structure, and painted with Kool Seal primer followed by Kool Seal elastomeric?
Just trying to understand the process... as my 75 Indian is currently a convertible... this might steer me a different way.
I'd never considered losing the metal altogether.
Impressive collection of photos. :)ThmbUp
Thanks,
Bill
Where are these photos?
Actually, nevermind. I found them. Thought this was from brians1969, not HandierMan1. I just can't figure out how to delete this post or I would.
Quote from: ibdilbert01 on July 11, 2013, 03:11 AM2 (http://thenetbytes.com/PIX/?Qwd=./1972%20Winnebago/External/The%20new%20Roof%21&Qif=t1.jpg&Qiv=thumbs&Qis=M)x4s were used for the trusses. They are cut to look like an arch. I just used a saber saw. The ends are 3/4 inch, the centers are the full height of the 2x4. To make a tapered/dome affect to the roof, the last truss from the ends are only 2 inches high. For the top, I used 1/4 plywood, it formed nice and is light. Then I glued rubber EDPM on top. I used carpet glue, because I'm cheap, I also glued Styrofoam to the backside for insulation.
(https://www.classicwinnebagos.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fthenetbytes.com%2FPIX%2F1972%2520Winnebago%2FExternal%2FThe%2520new%2520Roof%2521%2Ft1.jpg&hash=c7652fc36e29531b6615f1a945bda48005c07511)
(https://www.classicwinnebagos.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fthenetbytes.com%2FPIX%2F1972%2520Winnebago%2FExternal%2FThe%2520new%2520Roof%2521%2Ft6.jpg&hash=5ef36268445f96bc31b7d0f38be5b75288bc3680)
(https://www.classicwinnebagos.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fthenetbytes.com%2FPIX%2F1972%2520Winnebago%2FExternal%2FThe%2520new%2520Roof%2521%2Ft7.jpg&hash=8bc993bac2431e478908ea31d1dcd7bce9489d1f)
(https://www.classicwinnebagos.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fthenetbytes.com%2FPIX%2F1972%2520Winnebago%2FExternal%2FThe%2520new%2520Roof%2521%2Ft8.jpg&hash=f8e245c192c359acd7135594d96d353b7209cff3)
(Later I replaced the black EDPM with WHITE, the black got rather hot in the sun and was hard to keep the RV cool inside. )
(https://www.classicwinnebagos.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fthenetbytes.com%2FPIX%2Fqdig-files%2Fconverted-images%2F1972%2520Winnebago%2FInternal%2FNew%2520Wood%2520Work%2Fmed_BunkFront2.jpg&hash=5adde7ac7594beb91f4783e1efad93ee75680cf2)
I'm realizing there are 3 roofing remodel stories here: HandierMan1, brians1969 and ibdilbert01, but only HandierMan1's photos are available. How can I get access to photos from the roofing projects of brians1969 and ibdilbert01?
Working on resurrecting a 1974 Winne Brave 19'...
I think I read somewhere in this thread that you could do a combination of roofing treatments. EDPM + aluminum, EDPM + rubberized paint, etc. I have some questions about that in addition to some questions relating to roof/side seams.
After some research on these products, I'm going with TPO. I learned that it's not too smart to put fiberglass over EDPM/TPO, but I really like the idea of doing two treatments, for good measure if nothing else.
I'll be following the rounded truss suggestions here and laying down 1/2" CDX ply over the trusses. Then laying down 10oz fiberglass cloth + epoxy resin. Then putting on TPO with acrylic water based adhesive.
HEre are my questions:
1. Is this overkill? Will just the TPO suffice?
2. Will the acrylic water based adhesive stick to the fiberglass/epoxy resin?
3. Would I be wasting time and money to top all this off with a coat of the snow roof? (I really like the reflecting 90% of sun's rays idea.)
Now, about where the roof attaches to the sides when using EDPM or TPO. I assume this is kind of like putting a swatch of decorative cloth under the screw top of a jar of canned jelly to give away at Christmas. You want the TPO to hang down far enough over the seams and then tack on a flat trim strip (screw strip) with insert trim. To clean it up, you would trim off the excess TPO that is hanging below the trim strip.
Here are my questions about this:
1. Y'all mention "taping up the seams." What kind of tape are you all talking about? Flex tape? some kind of gasketing tape? I need brands/labels/widths/materials--all this in the spirit of proper leak prevention, of course.
2. How do you deal with the back corners? Find a corner screw strip? Or bend one myself?
3. Finally, if I do what I have described in the Christmas jelly analogy, do I need to install a "gutter" of some kind? If so, could you point me in the direction of the general idea? In my research I see there is a combo gutter/trim screw strip. Is that what I need to get?
There is a lot here, I realize. Thank you in advance for your efforts.
As for what sticks to what, I don't know for certain but, I worked with fiberglass and as far as I know, just about adhesive will stick to it. What will stick to your proposed cover material is really the question.
You can never protect your roof too much but, you can have too much protection on your roof.
The snow foam sealant is a good idea but, how long does it last?
Will you have to scrape it or whatever to get it off? Will that damage your primary roof protection?
The sealant tape. I used eternabond double sided. Works great. There are others highly recommended but I can't personally vouch for them.
Width. Wide enough to completely cover edge to edge of the inside of the molding.
The corner pieces. You'll need to make them. Adding all the additional thickness to the roof layers will push the molding upward and outward (from lapping the EDPM over the edges) creating a gap between the original lengths.
Important note. Adding more height to the roof layers will also reduce the amount of framing wood area available to sink your molding screws into. Too high and they'll split the wood.
Rain gutters. Not necessary but very nice to have.
Also, don't use stainless steel screws. Stainless and aluminum in contact create an undesirable chemical reaction. Use anodized screws.
Realize too, you'll be adding a lot of top weight compared to the original, thermacore roof.
Still, using arched rafters and improved roofing layer will bring you years of sag free, leak free enjoyment!
Sounds like I need to just stick with the TPO, and ditch the fiberglass.
Thank you for your good words here. I'm grateful.
This may sound off but I must ask.
Your doing a entire new roof?
If so dimensions.
If your patching a old fiberglass roof back together epoxy resin would be the first choice. It does not take a back seat to any glue.
Well,
To be honest I will admit that you have far better working products than we have in Europe because of environmental lunacy that even California looks like a mild state on environmental rules but I still don't quite understand why you think TPO is a good replacement for Epoxy/fiberglass.
I'm working on my RV for 1½ year now and seen dozens of video's of resealing the roof. Some with success (or so they say) others with leaks just weeks after. All did the same. Get compound, roll it on the roof and for all the video's I really see it as just a roll of the dice, with one it worked fine, with the other it started leaking again within the week. I saw TPO too but it just can't convince me. One sharp branch hitting the TPO the wrong way and it's gone.
The question why nobody uses fiberglass is simple. It is really expensive. I spend €750,= buying epoxy and fiberglass and double coated lacquer and that was with a 15% discount. Normally it would have costed me €862,50.
Now the reason I'm going for fiberglass/Epoxy because I know it's strong.
You see, I worked for a yachtbroker in the sailing industry, so I worked a lot with fiberglass/Epoxy but next to this I also worked at a partycafé as a deejay for 5 years and this café was open not for party's but PARTYS!!! about 150 days a year. There is one old video out there of the night before queensday (similar to independence day) that gives a very humble Idea of what we did.
Friday and Saturday the place was packed with partypeople. We are talking around a thousand people per weekend partying like there was no tomorrow, So at the end of the night we didn't use brooms to sweep the floor but shovels to collect all the glass and the debris left. After that we sprayed the complete floor with a hose, soap and chloride to scrub it and wipe it with floor wipers.
Now the reason I'm telling this: the floor was just pinewood with a 1.2 inch layer of epoxy over it, and it always amazed me the floor held up so well and in the 4th year it was finally time to renew the epoxy only because it started to show leaks.. So get the bad parts out putting new wood in and reseal the complete floor.
Now if it can take this kind of abuse, it will close off your roof and not for just a few weeks and isn't that exactly what we want after all?
Fiberglass isn't the only thing which works and, it'll leak in days or weeks too, IF you don't prep correctly. Also, where did the leaks occur in all those videos you mentioned? Right through the TPO or EDPM or other sealing method? I'm 99.9% certain the answer is no. It's through roof fixtures and seams along the perimeter which weren't properly prepped or sealed so, no matter which material you use, including fiberglass, you can have good, durable roof protection or you can have leaks.
Quote from: ohhmom on February 18, 2009, 11:50 PMLes
Thanks for all your help on this one...Alan is half way through with putting on the plywood on the top. We have purchased sheet aluminum and we are going to place that on top of the plywood afterwards....it is all one piece of aluminum...and then we will work on the coating. You and Wilbur have been a life saver!
Donna
Sorry to bring an old thread to life but i tried to private message and the site would not allow me to at this time. I was curious how using 1 piece sheet aluminum had worked out for anyone who has used it and any tips anyone can give. Im going to be tackling my roof repair soon and can use all the advice i can get. Im going to do the arched trusses same as the op. Can anyone tell me more info on the trusses? What are the measurements where and since i dont have mine homw from storage yet how wide is a 78 chieftain roof? Thanks for any advice and great job on the pics op. I could just use some more information. I was considering using epdm on the riof but would consider other options like aluminum ect...Thanks mike
When the Winnebago factory made the original roof. it involved a layer of 1/8th luan with foam sheet topped with sectioned aluminum sheet..About 4 feet width for the aluminum..with a special crease joint to make a large piece..Take a look at the picture..you can see the seams..
You can buy the aluminum in 4 foot sheets, but how do you create the seams??
The factory had a machine that would fold the creases to create the seams
Plus this 3 layer system was glued and pressed together on a very large press machine..
What I am saying is that you won't be able to create a roof doing it this way..
All of these roofs being fixed involves removing the original and then replace with wood tapered to the edges..
here are some pics from my total tearout..
Using a kiln dried 2x3 bought from Lowe's, I tapered the piece with a flat area in the center about 16 inches wide and then a taper cut to the edge to about 1.5 inches..
16 inch width between each rafter..
The other pictures show progress of it all going in..
I plan on using these roll on roof that come 8 feet wide by what ever length you need to cover the whole roof in one piece
What are most people using to cut the trusses?
If you want a full curved top, then a saber saw would allow you to make the curve..
If you do it like I did...where there is a 16 inch flat area in the center then a tapered straight surface out to the edge..A skil saw would cut a straight line..
Here is a cad drawing screen shot of how I did my rafters..2.5 inches tall in the center, tapered to the edge to 1.25 inches at the edge..
Here is a nice video showing how this lady made custom roof rafters being curved to match the original roof..
You should watch all she put up in repairing this travel trailer
For those who have removed the origional roof what should I expect just trying to make an attack plan. Should I expect to remove the tin then what's under it then the int roof in that order or all 3 together... just trying to plan
My motorhome was a total disaster..Leaks..rot..mold..everything..The roof had caved in, thus wrecking the cabinets..everything..
I gutted the interior..That is when I discovered that there is no solid frame work to this..
thin paneling for the interior..foam..then an aluminum skin..all held together with glue..
Picture shows my first attempt..after ripping the roof off, I glued these 1x4s to the top edge of the wall..then built the roof as shown..
Then I moved to the walls..right at the point where the wall attaches to the floor is a 2x4..screwed into the floor..mine was totally rotted..It was just rotted dust..
the walls had no frame work..just foam..So right now the roof is being held up with stilts ..And I am making stud(2x2) walls to replace the foam only walls..
I took the original roof of in 3 foot section..just cut it with a skill(circular) saw..At the top edge of the wall, the roof wraps over the wall edge and has 10 billion staples that must be removed..
Some of the cabinets were screwed into the ceiling..But that wasn't a problem for me because the cabinets and everything else were removed..
So I just cut the roof in sections and threw them off to the side..
So after building the roof, then I discovered the walls were just foam and rot..
Here is an example of the interior rot I was dealing with..Interior front right corner at the dash..That was solid plywood that was just rotted dust..
That is why I have ripped down all the wall to create everything new
Quote from: RockwoodMike on April 10, 2024, 11:46 PMMy motorhome was a total disaster..Leaks..rot..mold..everything..The roof had caved in, thus wrecking the cabinets..everything..
I gutted the interior..That is when I discovered that there is no solid frame work to this..
thin paneling for the interior..foam..then an aluminum skin..all held together with glue..
Picture shows my first attempt..after ripping the roof off, I glued these 1x4s to the top edge of the wall..then built the roof as shown..
Then I moved to the walls..right at the point where the wall attaches to the floor is a 2x4..screwed into the floor..mine was totally rotted..It was just rotted dust..
the walls had no frame work..just foam..So right now the roof is being held up with stilts ..And I am making stud(2x2) walls to replace the foam only walls..
I took the original roof of in 3 foot section..just cut it with a skill(circular) saw..At the top edge of the wall, the roof wraps over the wall edge and has 10 billion staples that must be removed..
Some of the cabinets were screwed into the ceiling..But that wasn't a problem for me because the cabinets and everything else were removed..
So I just cut the roof in sections and threw them off to the side..
So after building the roof, then I discovered the walls were just foam and rot..
I'm dealing with basically the opposite the interior in mine is in great shape visually at least the previous owner re did it. But the roof has a few small sags that collect water when it rains and I dont want it to get worse so I'm re doing the roof and trying to keep the inside in the best shape I can. The previous owner did a pretty decent job on the inside but for the exterior roof he just slathered many many gallons of epdm rubber rood coating on it and called it good but I know it won't last like this and want to fix it before it becomes worse. Thanks for the reply you have quite a project going there good on you for saving one from the scrap yard. Just curious I see others used 2x4 and I think you had said you used 2x3 why did you just prefer less height? Also what thickness ply wood are you using for the roof and what truss spacing? Hows it feel walking on it ext... pretty solid? Thanks for the info mike
I used 2x3 Kiln dried wood because all the 2x4 wood was not kiln dried..heavy with water..Besides, you are looking for a small taper in the roof to create runoff..
So my 2x3 has a total height of 2.5 inches in the middle and taper to 1.25 at the edges..Add 1/4 inch exterior grade plywood on top of that and you have 1.5 total thickness at the edge..
That 1.5 thickness is the same as the original roof..That can match the wall to reattach (staples, screws) the wall to the roof..
Now here is the problem with all this and I am dealing with it right now..
That taper that you are creating has to go flat again at the very front of the motorhome..The front "eyebrow" look at leading edge of the roof is flat..
How to go from a taper to a flat area is going to be something I will tackle soon..(Next week)
If you are saying the interior is in good shape, I would carefully peel the aluminum off..little pieces at a time..Then carefully remove the flat foam..little pieces at a time..
Thus leaving the 1/8th plywood that is the interior ceiling..
Create your roof rafters..stuff insulation between the rafters..top with 1/4 ply..and then roll on a rubber or other type of glue on roll roofing that you see all new and white..
I placed my rafters 16 on center..1/4 exterior ply..All glued and screwed..
Quote from: RockwoodMike on April 11, 2024, 10:51 AMI used 2x3 Kiln dried wood because all the 2x4 wood was not kiln dried..heavy with water..Besides, you are looking for a small taper in the roof to create runoff..
So my 2x3 has a total height of 2.5 inches in the middle and taper to 1.25 at the edges..Add 1/4 inch exterior grade plywood on top of that and you have 1.5 total thickness at the edge..
That 1.5 thickness is the same as the original roof..That can match the wall to reattach (staples, screws) the wall to the roof..
Now here is the problem with all this and I am dealing with it right now..
That taper that you are creating has to go flat again at the very front of the motorhome..The front "eyebrow" look at leading edge of the roof is flat..
How to go from a taper to a flat area is going to be something I will tackle soon..(Next week)
If you are saying the interior is in good shape, I would carefully peel the aluminum off..little pieces at a time..Then carefully remove the flat foam..little pieces at a time..
Thus leaving the 1/8th plywood that is the interior ceiling..
Create your roof rafters..stuff insulation between the rafters..top with 1/4 ply..and then roll on a rubber or other type of glue on roll roofing that you see all new and white..
I placed my rafters 16 on center..1/4 exterior ply..All glued and screwed..
I will stay tuned let me know hat you do in the front.
Maybe I am making a mistake telling you all about this taper roof scheme..
What if you rip the original roof off that has sagged ..instead of using tapered wood...you use 1.25 square steel tubing for the rafters..
Maybe doubled up at the air conditioner..You would have a flat roof again but very much sag resistant..
Top the 1.25 tubing with 1/4 ply and you would have a strong flat roof to match the front.
I am ripping everything..You are trying to preserve the interior..That might be a better way to go(going flat again but stronger)
Not a bad idea but I'm going to hopefully just do it once and for all and I think a taper is a better option. No issues with roof ac I no longer have one I have a mini split with the out door unit installed in the origional on board genorator location and the cooling unit above the bathroom.
Well..I have been working on this all day and I am having one $@!#@! of a time..I kinda wish I had not put so much taper to it..Going from a taper to flat with plywood is not going easy..
I am going to cut grooves on the back side of the plywood to make it flexible to create the transition..
Think this through..I think I have made a mess..maybe you shouldn't be listening to all this..I may have screwed up in a big way :-[
Quote from: RockwoodMike on April 11, 2024, 05:52 PMWell..I have been working on this all day and I am having one $@!#@! of a time..I kinda wish I had not put so much taper to it..Going from a taper to flat with plywood is not going easy..
I am going to cut grooves on the back side of the plywood to make it flexible to create the transition..
Think this through..I think I have made a mess..maybe you shouldn't be listening to all this..I may have screwed up in a big way :-[
Sorry to hear your having trouble. I would think you would need to have the flat, but round out from there. the sharp corner transition from the flat to the taper is probably the issue.
https://www.classicwinnebagos.com/forum/index.php?topic=15119.new#new
Take a look at this posting I just did..Last page..number 621
I think this will work..
Quote from: RockwoodMike on April 11, 2024, 10:56 PMhttps://www.classicwinnebagos.com/forum/index.php?topic=15119.new#new
Take a look at this posting I just did..Last page..number 621
I think this will work..
Funny I found and was just reading your build thread when you post this. Keep up the good work