Sent: 3/7/2007
I have decided to seal my roof with a roll on type elastomeric sealant. I want as many of you to respond with the best product recommendations. Please I want to use the best product out on the market!! Thanks
Bagorider
Sent: 3/8/2007
If you don't have the time, money or gumption to replace your roof, then Kool Seal & Eternabond tape, the 2" wide with aluminum on it is the way to go for a long lasting maintenance make-over. I dont' think it really matters whether you paint or roll your coating on, except for the time factor. I put the roofing tape around everything that sticks through the roof, then used a 2" brush to paint over it and the edges onto the roof. Then, I rolled on a coat. By the time I had gotten to the back of the roof, the front areas were dry and and there rest drying quickly. I gave it about an extra hour, then repeated the entire process. Painting around the vents, etc, and then rolling on the main coat.
And since we're rapidly and happily closing on "our" season of the year, and more folks are likely thinking, "yeah, I ought to go up there and see if it's time for my roof too." I guess it's about time I posted my re-roof coating photos!
Thanks SOB!
Sounds like I need to go it, corners-vents, and roll on what I can then go over the whole thing again. Makes sense to me. But I doubt my 1Gal.+ lQt will do my 20' roof both times may order another gal and have enough first time around.
Bill
Sent: 3/8/2007
I used 2.5 gallons to cover my roof with 5 coats.
Sent: 3/8/2007
I used about 5 gallons of undercoat and 5 gallons of roofing. There is a local company that wanted me to use their product on some commercial roofs so I tested it on Wilburs roof. You can see pictures at http://groups.msn.com/ClassicWinnebagos/wilbursnewroof.msnw?Page=3 The first coat was with the fabric they make inbedded in it over new 1/2" plywood. But SOB, do I really need the tarp over it inside the garage to make it last? Les
Sent: 3/8/2007
Wow was that great; looking at the way you did that roof. Handier man also sent in his photos but I would doubt I would need the "Undercoat" unless I replaced the roof (fingers crossed)>! I bought the same sealer but the tape I have purchased is Kool patch patching take--not exactly--not going to take a chance against something that is proven to work---buy the stuff tomorrow.
Thanks guys
Bill
Sent: 3/9/2007
Ok Les
We are very impressed...especially my husband...so where did you buy this stuff to coat the plywood...and what type of fabric did you use...and was the fabric just for the joints...or what. I really did love the pictures...just need to know a little more on how you sealed the sides.was it just with the sealant coat...or what...and did you lay anything else on the plywood before using the two buckets of stuff on it. Yes I know I need some clarification...just consider it a womans perogative...Please!!!!!
Thanks for sharing and we hope to try it also.
Also,,,,did you remove your entire roof first ...or did you just lay the truses over the existing roof?
Thanks!
Donna and Alan
Sent: 3/9/2007
On the Ark (which had a roof in VERY rough condition...leaking at the seams, sagging at the AC, full of pinholes, etc.), I used Kool Seal...the kind made for RV roofs that says you only have to coat it once every 5 years. It has held up remarkably well, is quite durable, even walking on it, and 2 years later, she still didn't leak.
For the seams I used Kool Seal seam sealer...in a caulking tube...and then, after the 7 coats of Kool Seal dried on the roof, I sealed off all the seams again, and around the vents/etc. with silicone.
I've never used Eternabond, but everyone in here that has used it has used it to great success...they say it even forms around screw heads and seals them. So, its great to use around seams. Personally, if there are screw heads and other rough/non-smooth areas to seal, I'd use the silicone, or the A-lex that Tom recommends.
On the 77 Itasca, the roof is one piece of shiney aluminum, with no seams at all. Its just one giant sheet of aluminum/thermopanel. When you use Kool Seal on bare aluminum, make sure you prime it first with Kool Seal primer...one coat will do it. Also, and this is imperative: AFTER you scrape all the old coating off the roof (hopefully you are luckier than we were with the Ark...it took us DAYS to scrape off the old layers (sometimes an inch thick!) of old fibrous silver and black tar-like roof sealer that previous owners had piled up over the years!), make sure you clean it with TSP...the REAL TSP, not the enviro-friendly non-phospate kind (which doesn't work)...don't worry, washing your roof once with it won't hurt the fish or the ground water! After you clean it all, if the aluminum is bare and not painted, prime it. After its primed, seal the seams with your choice of either Eternabond or Kool Seal seam sealer (NOT silicone...Kool Seal AND Eternabond won't stick to it!)...and then coat the roof with at least 5 coats of Kool Seal...the household kind is fine...its the same formula, just not as thick, and since you are using multiple coats, you can save a LOT of money by buying it in a 5 gallon pail at Lowes.
After you coat it, seal all the seams again with Eternabond or silicone or A-lex, and then seal around every vent and screw and bold with the same.
Good luck! I'll be coating the roof of the Itasca myself next week...thankfully its a desert vehicle, and its roof was never coated by a previous owner...and its never seen any rain until it got out here to Florida!
Kev
Sent: 3/9/2007
Mbrs--
Just took a quick look @ camping world at ETERNABOND and it is $65.00 for a 4"X37' roll of this stuff
Is that about right?
Bill
Sent: 3/9/2007
You don't need the 4"~! It's overkill. The 2" gives you 1 full inch on both sides of the seam to be covered. I got a 25 ft roll for $45 from PPL Motorhomes. It may be more now. They also carry repair kits for fiberglass, holding tanks, bath tubs... rubber roofing and a complete line of everything else.
http://www.pplmotorhomes.com/parts/caulks-sealants-adhesives-repairs-1.htm
I'm looking around and I don't see the 2", just the 4". But, you can always cut it in half, lengthwise, which is probrobly very cost effective. Although, the stuff is tough to cut through because the gray sealant is very, very sticky and thick like peanut butter with thickener added.
To clean it off areas and cutting tools, use brake parts cleaner or gasoline.
More info here:
http://www.structuralmaterials.com/Eternabond.htm
AHA! Found it! Look here:
http://www.eternabond.com/detail.asp?id=ebas
And a correction on the lenght I got... it was 50'. I got 2 rolls and had plenty extra. You can also get the "Miracle" tape which carries a lifetime guarantee. It's also on that last link.
Sent: 3/9/2007
Thanks SOB
I ordered 2 --2" rolls direct from eternabond. Like you said that should be enough. Also have another gal. of Kool Seal coming along with a gal of primer. That should do it thanks for the help. Also figured out the PAYPAL thing Will keep these 2 "E" mail in file
Thanks again
Bill
Sent: 3/9/2007
I used the seam tape on all seams between plywood sheets and around vents and on edges of the roof. The roofing I used is from an Oregon company and we in Oregon know about rain, but it might not be available very far from here. They even have some new products that say are for RV's. I used an undercoating and snow seal over it.
Here is the stuff I used, http://www.amesresearch.com/roof_coatings.htm You can see a picture in my album of the two cans of what I used. Les
Sent: 9/30/2007
I'm getting ready to seal and tape the roof. Questions:
A) Will the eternabond tape stick to fiberglass? The 78 Brave has a fiber glass capover the wind shield.
B) Should I pull up the metal strip and re caulk the seam between the fiber glass and the roof? Its a real mess now but will clean up!.
C) Is Sta-kool mobilastic ok as a sealer?
D) Should the roof ha a primer before sealer. Metal on roof now shines.
Sent: 10/4/2007
Eternabond and roof sealers will stick to almost everything as long as its clean. The easiest to do is to simply take a bucket of dishwashing detergent and water and just scrub like he** . Rinse then park her in the sun to thoroughly dry. If your roof is really really shiny you could just lightly rub it with steel wool enough to just barely scratch it before putting the kool-seal down.
I did Gone's roof last year and will repeat this year.. I washed and scrubbed her good and let her sit for a week (no rain).... I slopped paint on with a brush around anything that stuck out, vents, antennae etc. and rollered the rest. Took me 2 gallons to do 28' 3x really well. Expecting this year to do 1 gallon and 1+ coats heavy around vents etc.....
tina
Sent: 9/17/2003
Well with the first hard rain, I noticed an area inside the cabinent near the stove had wet towels. Since I know that I had not used towels for a shower lately, I assume that I have a leak.
I prefer to fix this problem using a process that will not have to be re-done for years to come.
I seen a product called "Eternabond." Is this the best? Expensive stuff. But I want to do the repair once, so that is ok.
Has anyone gone to a professional to get roof re-covered ?? Is so, what sort of cost is involved ?
What other ideas are out there to fix up the roof ??
Thanks in advance for the help.
Dave Beatty
Sent: 9/17/2003
Most anywhere I have traveled on the net always seemed to have rave reviews for Eternabond. I have not had to use it yet though so no first hand experience. Several here have though. As far as professional, that's typically expensive if you can even find someone willing to do a home that is greater than 10 years old. Most here are DIY using sheet edpm rubber roofing or liquid edpm or elastomeric coatings. Several here have done this. I used elastomeric (kool seal) to fix some leaking sections I encountered. Liquid, well a paste actually, is messy and takes a little while to dry so make sure no rain in the forecast for a few days.
Dave
Sent: 9/17/2003
And if your roof has leaked enough for water to get in noitceably, it probably hasn't been really dry inside for months or years. Though mine doesn't seem to leak now, I presume I will have to do an entire roof replace eventualy, and I intend to make it crowned up a couple of inches, and will cover it with an aluminum skin. I would hope to make it so I could just replace the aluminum skin each 5 to 7 years. I would like to make the structure moisture permiable, so running a dehumidifier inside a few times a year, -like after hurricane isabel- would dry it out. And when I retire - I definitely plan on having a roof over the winny!
All of you folks in the path of hurricane isabel - I advise making sure your winny is tilted a few degrees, so water will run off prompty. denison
Sent: 9/17/2003
You might want to consider a fiberglass over plywood roof vs aluminum Dave. It is a feasible alternative. Maintenance would be less and fiberglass does not corrode. It is not really that hard to work with especially in a flat/crowned situation. The plywood provides the strength, the fiberglass the sealing. You could always hide it with sheet or liquid rubber roof to maintain original looks.
Dave
Sent: 9/22/2003
I took and pressure washed it with Rv wash to get the most of the grime & old sealant out of the seams once I got it cleaned I took a putty knife & got all the sealant that was left in the seams then on close inspection I seem alot of little pin hole in the aluminum roof so I got some dura glass (chopped fiber glass for body repairs) & patched the hole with it then got some top grade calking from Manards name brand was Water Shield & done the seems got rubber vent pipe boots for the plumbing vents(2) then sealed them with water shield & put a new air conditioner seal in under itwith water shield on the outer edges of the seal then got some fiber rv & trailer roof coating & applied 2 coats but when you use this stuff it needs 8 hours of drying time before dew can set on it & don't for get to seal the rain gutters but when I done my project I had the awning & rain gutters off so I could peal up the roof to install new ceiling!
Sent: 10/29/2003
I replaced the roof on my 73 about 4 years ago using the firestone commercial non-re-enforced rubber(edpm). I replaced the front 2/3 of the roof and raised it an extra 1/4" where the air con. sets. I glue it down with the recommended yellow glue (contact cement). I used one sheet and covered the old section as well. I got new vent flashings and a new plastic refer vent cover at the rv store fairly cheap. I had a shop to do it in so I took my time, but it was a pretty easy job overall. If you don't have any major damage now you could clean your existing roof and raise you air con. some and glue the rubber with out rebuilding anything.
David
Sent: 10/30/2003
David Where did you get the rubber roof material ? What was the cost , I have seen some kits on the web was it one of those ? I want to do something like that on my 76 D23C , it seems like the way to go . -Sea Hag
Sent: 10/30/2003
I got it from a commercial roofing company in Seattle that has a foreman that's a friend of mine. I only used a piece 10' x 22'.(The rolls come in 10' wide x 100' lengths) It was only worth about $10.00. The 5 gallon bucket of glue cost me $50.00. I used a roller to apply it. I glued and screwed my sandwiches of plywood and 1" styrofoam, so I used over half of the glue. I also glued my 4' x 8' sheets of ceiling material inside. I don't remember the cost of the incidentals.
David
Sent: 11/3/2003
The water that ponded between the unit roof and the awning ran inside thru the roof and down inside the cabinet wall thru the bottom of the cabinet to the light fixture over the table and onto the table.I am thinking now that the other two leaks near the front and another at the rear bed might have been related to the same thing. This awning when in the storage position is just above the roof leaving a trough that catches water, with the unit parked level it collects and stores a large amount of water.I usually never park a rig being stored level.
James
Sent: 11/3/2003
I have seen leaks travel through walls and follow seams for several feet before. As a side note, in the glovebox of my Chieftan there is a reciept for a new roof,a/c unit,and new ceiling. the previous owner had the work done in 1996. Total cost of the repair was $5286.79 tax included. The materials weren't that expensive at only $1864.39 . including a new Coleman mach 3 . The major cost was the labor. So doing the job yourself can save some big bucks on this type of repair. Also, while the roof was off, they added two additional roof supports (one on each end of the A/C unit) they look like 1x2 box tubing, and go from the floor up the walls, to the ceiling, then across to the other side, then back down to the floor. Underneath they are bolted to the metal floor support bracket coming from the frame. This (hopefully) strengthens the roof at the a/c so it wont sag and collect water. I think the shop did a good job on it as I can service my a/c unit and walk around without any give at all. Maybe you could fabricate something like it for yours. Lefty
Sent: 11/3/2003
I have a 1974 also,purchased from the son of the original owner. When new he had the dealer remove the a/c unit. Then had two pieces of 3/16 thick by 1 1/2 angle placed across the roof, and secured.The angle sits flat and up facing each other. He then had the a/c unit reinstalled sitting on the angle and not the roof. NO SAG,,,after 30+years and 141,000 miles
James
Sent: 8/8/2006
I finally got on my roof to see the brand of bathroom vent cover I needed, after a giant hail storm destroyed my other vent cover.
As I got on the roof i noticed it to be mildewed and had some holes just on the top layer (looking like split leather or plastic). We have had a few hard rains since the hail storm and my inside roof is not leaking.
Am looking for a solution to fix these tears, or should I just leave them alone since I am not having any leakage inside the coach.
Thanks,
Brenda
Sent: 8/8/2006
You may not have any visual leakage inside the coach now, Brenda, but your roof coating is beginning to deteriorate and it is likely it won't be long until you do. It's time for a strip and re-coating as soon as possible.
Sent: 8/8/2006
Thanks Sob,
I will check out the message boards to see what the process may be.
Wow.................any buddie wanna come to San Antonio and help? I will be happy to pay the expenses.
Huggs and thanks again.
Brenda
Sent: 8/16/2006
If your aluminum is in decent shape and its only the coating that is bad, its a long hard process, but easy enough!
First, you need to get up on the roof with a scraper and a gallon or two of iced tea...and scrape all the old coating off, at least as much as you can get off without damaging the aluminum...it took me DAYS to get all the old aluminum colored fibrous crap off the Ark's roof and down to painted aluminum!
Next, take Kool Seal seam sealer, it comes in a caulking tube, and seal all the seams, around the vents, etc. You might have to remove your AC unit too if you can't get underneith it...just unbolt it and unwire it, and move it to the side...when you put it back on you'll need a new AC seal from an RV dealer...you shouldn't try to reuse the old one.
Finally, coat your whole roof, after cleaning it with TSP and rinsing it thoroughly, with Kool Seal Elastomeric coating, available at Lowes in 5 gallon buckets...you'll need the whole 5 gallons, since you need to put down at least 6 coats the first time you do it. You can get the cheaper brand of Kool Seal. The more expensive kind says you don't have to recoat for 5 years, but that's crap...I have to recoat the Ark's roof after just a year with the expensive stuff, so the cheap stuff is just as good. You will have to recoat with a single coat in a year, and each year.
For the AC unit, you might want to coat it 6 or more times all around the hole, letting it dry between coats, and then do the rest of your roof once the AC unit is back in place with a new seal.
Remember to clean the roof off really really well with TSP before coating it, and let it dry between coats...use at least 6 coats.
Kool Seal goes on like thick latex paint, and it is bright white, which means it will keep your rig a lot cooler in the summer time! Only use Kool Seal...never use that dark aluminum colored fibrous crap...yuck!
Have fun!
Kev
Sent: 10/27/2006
I've been following various threads on rook repair and I'd like to get a few things straight in my head.
My roof is leaking considerably in the rear. It seems to be leaking the most at the seams where the roof meets the side walls.
On the outside the PO laid a thick bead of silicone along the aluminum side trim ti try and seal the edges.
Should I strip off all the silicone, remove the metal trim, and then use eternabond tape over the edges? Then replace the metal trim screwing trough the tape? that doesn't sound right.
Sent: 10/27/2006
Scorpion,
You concept is correct, if you use the Eternabond brand tape. I can't vouch for other brands.
So yes, the concept is correct. Etrnabond stays pliable, so when you screw through it, the adhesive will leach up through the hole and seal, indefinately. So far it's been 2 years on my roof to wall connections, and I have no evidence of leaks whatsoever.
Be sure to check the sidewalls for damage and try to use different scureing holes than the originals, or use oversize sheet metal screws, like #10's instead of the original 12's. You can find 10's with 1/4 hex heads, but they're more expensive. Use aluminum screws if you can get them. Zinc and steel screww will rust, and cause the aluminum to corrode over time.
Re-use the original trim if you can (I used all new gutter trim)... but a good way to ensure that you don't use the original holes is to mount the left side to the right and vice-versa the trim is almost never uniform in attachment points on both sides. This works well as long as you don't have an original awning, as that trim has the awning fabric bead extrusion on it..
By the way, the edge trim, gutter molding and awning rail is not expensive, and comes in up to 40 foot sections, but you have to get it from an RV dealer who can accept long packages, most likely they'll stock it in 16 foot sections (what I have) so there's a break in my trim, 4 feet from the edge (D20). The front and rea trim are 7'6" or 7'9" depending on the year and model.
Tom
I bought the 4" wide eternabond. then I cut it into 2" wide strips for the wall to roof edge. my roof is modified and not thermopanel, and the aluminum skin is new, so I didn't need a 4" wide swath of sealer, I just needed enough to cover the damged sidewall edge and old screw locations.
I have a leak so I undertook this task yesterday...... ugh. Lowe's has replaced Kool Seal with Black Jack. Same white elastomeric stuff though. 5 gallon bucket was $69.99. They do not sell Eternabond. I have some ideas and am going to try something less expesive Ill post up when Im done.... if it works lol. The cheap silver tape is what I ripped off my roof yesterday. It was worthless except to keep water under it and soak the wood lol. It looked as if whoever did my roof last only applied one coat of coating! Pics to follow.....
scrubbed with bleach and water to kill mold.....letting roof dry today. Kinda humid here. =(
LOL! I went to Lowe's the same day you did, looking for the Kool Seal. Yup, don't have it anymore. Neither does Home Depot. They didn't have the Black Jack in the white either, just the patching compound. Too thick. The Black Jack they have is the silver stuff. I'm kinda hesitant about it.
Anyone have any recommendations for the Black Jack silver roof sealant?
Black Jack Roof Gard. My Lowes had tons of 5 gallon buckets but no 1 gal. either.....There is an aluminum backed, self adhesive, flashing. Company called Grace. "Vycor Aluminum Flashing. For Leak Prone Areas" this seemed common sense to me lol. 6in X 25ft was 15 bucks. It stuck great. Was easy to trim.....any reason it would fail after a few coats of Roof gard? Im going to let it set in the sun tomorrow and then coat it.
Run from the silver stuff like the plague!!! It isn't meant for a moving flexing roof...it will seal for a while, and then it will leak...and it won't look like its leaking anywhere! Its fibrous and if it cracks in one place, water can travel from that place to anywhere else and leak in or get held against the aluminum eventually pinholing it. Get the white elastomeric, even if you have to pay more at an RV dealer.
Kev
The silver fibrous stuff is what I pulled off. Yes it was useless and rotted some wood. =( I already placed the other stuff so I hope it works lol. Ill put pics up in the other thread. I think it will work great. Its more like a tar on one side I guess....... Live and learn hehe
Quick question for all of you redoing or recoating your roof. Are you actually getting up on the roof or working from a ladder? I just bought my 85 Winny and so far have been too scared to walk on the roof to check it out. Didnt know if it would hold my weight. There hasnt been any leaks that I can tell and no sagging, but would love to really check out the roof to see if I need to re-coat it with something.
I guess that all depends on the condition of your roof, and how much you weigh... :laugh:
I weigh about 220lbs...and I've walked on our Georgie Boy roof doing A/C maint. and general roof service. Mine feels as solid as walking on a concrete deck... although I do wear just socks when I'm on it to prevent damaging the rubber roof membrane, just in case.
Tim Daly dances naked on his roof but, he recently replaced the whole thing and it's wood with aluminum. I believe yours is fiberglass(?).
Hm?
I have no idea what mine is made of. I know just about nothing about this old Winnie or fiberglass. But I plan on taking a trip to the top of it to check out the roof very soon. I'm scared of heights so have to talk myself into first, lol
Look on the bright side.. if you step on it and fall thru, you found a bad spot that needed fixing anyways. :)rotflmao
LMAO... I did make it up on top of the old winny today and it seems quite solid, it actually has metal on the roof. But I can tell that I should put some new sealant on it, the old caulking around the edges is coming loose. So I will do some research on here to find the how to clean it and put some of the sealer on it. Just hope I dont paint myself into the wrong corner once I start it. lol
A few years ago I found literally hundreds of tiny holes in my aluminium roof on my '78 Chieftain. I purchased Safe-T-Plex elastomeric coating from polycoatings.com and have had no further problems. It is advertised to flex 180 degrees at -40. In combination with the special fabric tape they sell for joints that may flex, I found it to be a wonderful product and have used it on many other applications. I rolled on 3 or 4 coats on my flat roof.
i?? Just another option. I think this is the route I'm going to go.
http://www.polycoatings.com/rvroof.html
Be sure to look at the liquid epdm roof coatings, its twice the cost of most other stuff but it sure is tough and dries just like rubber.
Interested in more info & experiences with EDPM? Just put that in the message search. :)ThmbUp
Here's a good start:
http://www.classicwinnebagos.com/forum/index.php?topic=2522.msg4533#msg4533 (http://www.classicwinnebagos.com/forum/index.php?topic=2522.msg4533#msg4533)
Well like so many before me it looks like some little gremlin got up on our roof with a streight pin and put a thousand little pin prick holes in our new/old winnie. So like many before us what to do? New roof, rubber roof, cool seal? Well we went with this product up here in Canada called http://www.polycoatings.com/rvroof.html (http://www.polycoatings.com/rvroof.html). Spent the day washing the roof with a product called Spray-Nine. Now when these folks say this is sticky shoot they aren't kidding. This stuff is unbelievable. If the roll on polycoating is anything like the tape WOW! this is good stuff.
I know there cheaper products out there and many ways it can be done however for $382.99 Canadian it seemed to be the best and least of all options. It's a one time deal for 20 years. Not to mention the Company support is incredible. Any time I had a question and called the company they couldn't do enough to help out. Yeah don't see that very often these days.
Here's some of the process. And mark my words when these guys say DON'T let the tap touch it's self! Their not kidding. This is real sticky stuff. D:oH!
Admin edit: To see the complete info and photos on TJ's project, click here:
http://www.classicwinnebagos.com/forum/index.php?topic=6617.0
Just bought a 25 foot by 4 inch roll of StickNBond...yep, same as Eternabond and made by the same folks, so I don't know whats up with the name change...at Price-Rite RV for 54 bucks.
Kev
I got my eternabond materials from Best materials I think they are listed in the resources.
I finally have the funds to do something with my roof. It doesnt leak that I know of but the silicone caulking a PO put on it is starting to come off, so time to fix it up. I am extrememly confused though on which eternabond tape I should get tho and dont want to waste money buying the wrong stuff. It is an aluminum roof and looks to be in really good shape. I think I remember Kev saying that when he put kool seal on his roof it helped to keep it cooler inside? So I figure I would tape all the seams and around all protrusions and then paint the kool seal on. Can anyone tell me which tape would be best for an aluminum roof? And also would the tape for aluminum stick where the aluminum meets fiberglass around the edges? Thanks
MJ
- I've seen a lot of roof repairs and this stuff gets my vote. When I say this tape sticks, trust me this stuff sticks. And the proses is guaranteed for 20 years. :)ThmbUp
- http://www.polycoatings.com/rvroof.html (http://www.polycoatings.com/rvroof.html)
I just about have my roof done, I used 2" wide eternabond tape that has a fabric backing. The company explained that if I was going to paint over it with anything then the aluminum backed tape was the wrong stuff to use. I have so far rolled on 5 coats of elastomeric coating which is probably enough but I want to use up the whole 5 gallons. There are 2 things I am not real happy about with all of this, #1 the tape shows through to the point that you can still see the fabric texture and #2 I dont get the feeling that the coating is doing much but painting my roof like you paint the walls of your house. I thought it would be thicker and more rubbery. But I suppose if it keeps any leaks from forming thats all that is important.
It is thinner than what you'd expect but, it's not supposed to be done in one or two layers. I don't know what brand you used but, I used Kool Seal and, from a total strip down, it took 6 coats to cover it until it was completely opaque.
As for the aluminum backed tape not being able to paint over? Obviously, if you were to scrape something over it, yeah, the coating would likely get scaped off of it.
Look at my photo album in the General Gallery: "One day roof reseal" I used the aluminum backed tape and, 5 years later, it was just as good as the day I resealed it, with only a little discoloring from the weather.
I wouldn't have used the mesh stuff to cover the seams either. The tape is good over them too.
I almost wish I hadn't listened to the company and went with the aluminum backed tape just because I am a perfectionist and I think it would have looked better. The roof is now most definitely white, and I do mean white. When I climbed up to put another coat on it blinded me so badly my eyes were watering. The brand I used was Sta-Kool and so far I have put 6 coats on I think I have enough left to do another 2-3 coats so thats what it is going to get. I hate letting things go to waste.lol
I forget to mention the 3rd thing I didnt like... The gnats were so attracted to the coating that I have at least 2 million of the little fockers painted into the roof now.
LOL! Yup, it sure does look nice and "blinding" white. I do recall painting a few flying bugs into their permanent resting places when I did mine.
:laugh:
Trick question :laugh: How much did it cost. Is it going to do the job you had hoped for. Would you us this product again. i??
Trick answer, Total cost was around $150 I dont know if it's going to do what I hope and I wont know if I would do it again until a few years goes by and I see how it works out. :P
Well I know everybody has their favorite solution. I'm about as Cheap as you can get but I stepped up to the plate and ate the cost not knowing what I was getting and signed up for this stuff. http://www.polycoatings.com/rvroof.html (http://www.polycoatings.com/rvroof.html)
What I can tell you is it is the stickiest stuff you can imagine and the paint or what ever it is is as thick as molasses. It almost reminds you of roll on rubber roofing. I'm very confident that it did the job the folks said it would. If and I hope you don't have to do your roof again might I suggest that you try this. I'm confident you won't regret it.
:)ThmbUp
thank you, I saved the link just in case this stuff doesnt work out and I have to re-do it. How long ago did you do your roof?
Remember how heavy that container was when full ? if you use it all that is how much extra weight you will be carrying at all times ! I used the Kool Seal and recoat ea 3 yrs Frank
We just did it this summer. I don't know how to explain it, I've seen all the other applications and all I can say is when I opened the tape on this stuff it was a Holy shoot moment. I mean when they say sticky they really mean sticky. I new right then and there next to putting on a tin roof or a rubber roof this stuff was something else. When we opened the can of Elastomeric roof coating WOW! It's funny it looked like liquid rubber roof but when we rolled it in, it flowed into all the cracks and crevasses and soaked right in. After it dried which it didn't really do because it dried and just felt rubbery. All I can say for sure is it really worked. As soon as you try it you'll know exactly what I mean. It's worth the investment.
I had a brainstorm the other day walking around on the flat roof of the Chieftain. Hm?
They make tapered insulation sheets for flat roof applications on buildings. They come in many different varieties from felt covered sheets to ones with glass fibers, fiberboard, perlite, etc. A common size sheet is 4' x 4' and the slope can be any number of options.
(https://www.classicwinnebagos.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi880.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fac1%2FChargerman1969%2FWinnebago%2FRoofinsulation_zpsb78f08f0.gif&hash=78bade33f6ba2c0bee8d32c04254a37dad98756a)
What I was thinking is getting sheets that taper from 2"-3" or so down to a 1/2", cut them down to the proper width, and put them back to back to form a ridgeline along the center of the roof that would allow drainage to the sides. Once properly attached to the old roof a finish layer of your choosing (EDPM,TPO,PVC, etc.) could then be applied and secured with new edge strips. The front and rear would need to be "customized" a little to blend in the ridgelines.
This would only really apply to structurally sound flat roofs in order to get some slope without total reconstruction. The weight should be minimal, shouldn't be too hard to trim for vents, etc., and the added thermal barrier would be a bonus. I don't know the cost but 10-16 sheets would do most jobs. Do you guys think this is this a viable option?
Here is a link to one of the manufacturers, but there are many different brands.
http://www.atlasroofing.com/tabbed.php?section_url=99&menu=390 (http://www.atlasroofing.com/tabbed.php?section_url=99&menu=390)
That sounds like a very interesting and viable option. Since they are available in different widths and tapered, it would be great for instances where the roof is sound, it just has some low spots.
Nice! :) :)ThmbUp
I really like this idea!!! I'm in the same boat, my roof is mostly rock solid, except for a tiny spot in the rear where the spare tire sat.
As mentioned the best way to handle a leaking roof is to replace it. Our winnie had pinholes when we bought it in '93 so we sealed it with elasomeric rv paint. We continued this for the years following. That worked to keep the roof dry but the damage was already done.... dry rot set in and the roof sagged more and more. D:oH!
So last year we bit the bullet and ripped off the roof. ??? This site was sooo helpful. :) After researching several posts I used a modification to the posted link above that Madathlon refers to. I used 2" x 4" where the AC goes for 4 joists, I left 36" in the centre of these 2" x 4" flat to help mounting the AC and then tapered them to 1.5" on the outside. I then did the same to 3 - 2"x.3" and then dropped down to 2" x 2" for the front and the back. At the very front just under the brow sheet aluminium I used a 1" x 2". This doubled the overall roof thickness to 1.5" to 3.5". This served to slope the roof from side to side and front to back and saved having to cut radius on each joist. I used a snowflake panelling for the ceiling at $35 per sheet and 3/8" plywood G1S for the rooftop insulated with rigid foam. I then glued EPDM roofing membrane (white side up!) and have a dry roof for at least the next 12-20 years. Its not that bad to do if you have just some basic framing carpentry skills. No more difficult than say adding a room in the basement.
Because the roof was sagging it had to come down the ceiling sheets 4x8 bought new sheets for $45.00 after I installed steel and got the roof back up I used a staple gun and I put new angle iron in the corners and used new screws then re-installed the cupboards. You may want to run some wood so you have something to staple to because the staples wont hold in foam.
all in all it wasn't that bad. I had a friend help me and it took a day. but looks like new.
Add no more sag around the ac collecting water.
I just put my first coat of sealant on my fiberglass roof. I chose to use Black Jack Elastomeric roofing sealant. I got it at Lowes Home Improvement for 84.00. I chose this because it specifically states that it would bond to fiberglass.
So far, I am very pleased. It dries to the whitest of whites. Beautiful appearance. I plan to put two more coats on tomorrow.
Don T.
Excellent! I've used that and the Henry brand from Home Depot, and never had a problem with either.
Kev
Best of all, this North Carolina weather is perfect for sealing :)clap
Don T.
I used stuff that I got from that place... Too white compared to the rest of the 'Goose'...
All excellent information. But I guess I'll thrown my 2 cents in, too. When absolutely NOTHING worked on the leaks in the Alfabago, I purchased a quart can of stuff called Dyco 890. I only got the little can because I'd tried so many things that never seemed to work. The next rain, no leaks. So I went back and got more of the stuff and covered the entire roof. Been several years now, and no new leaks have appeared. And it was so much easier than ripping off the entire roof and rebuilding it. Especially since, at my age, I'd need about 10 years to get a new roof on.
I plan on coating my metal roof on the winnebago warrior with the black jack "Ultra Roof " elastomeric siliconized roof coating..I used this roof coating on a rubber roof I had on my travel trailer I use to have ..it seemed to work good on that roof ..it would like to hear if they led it for the metal roofs ..it see where several people have bought it on this tread for there motorhome but would like to know if it worked out good for them ..it have also used the "Ultra Roof " on my awning . .I roll my awning out and I paint with it down even to the first line ..usually like 2 ft down and I paint it really good along the edge ..I do this the give it uv protection due to it being in the sun ..it stayed on really well with opening and closing the awning ..it have painted 2 different awnings on my previous travel trailers ..it also help to waterproof it ..I got the idea because my awning started to Crack and leak in the upper area where they are attached ..and it sealed the holes and stopped it from leaking .when I put my new awning on I'm going to use the ultra roof on it from the get go ..can I hear reviews on how yall liked the black jack "Ultra seal"
elastomeric 10 year coating on your metal roofs please
My first "canopy" was a 12x9 heavy canvas tarp that I painted with elastomeric and made even HEAVIER. I attached "tubing" with cord to the grommets that slipped into the channel rail, and had adjustable aluminum poles to guy it out tight,.... sorta "60's style", it was cheap, easy and served well for a long time. Now stored and unused it's still in good clean waterproof shape! I've made large outdoor banners the same way and they've lasted for several YEARS now.
OH,.... and tomorrow,... temps near 70 for a couple days, time to clean and seal my rooftop too! Using Ames Maximum Stretch elastomeric coating after a good cleaning and taping of seams and joints.
I used Kool Seal over a pourable EPDM coating on mine. So far, I've gone nearly two years and the roof is still water tight. I used roughly 5 gallons of Kool Seal, spread out over 5-6 coats. I have not re-coated my Roof, though I probably should.
With a short few days of remarkable weather, I was able extricate myself from "my bubble" and got the roof done completely. A through cleaning, wire-brushing, taped and sealed all, and two very heavy coats (about 4gal) of Ames Maximum Stretch, all with enough time to dry between coats and cure well before weather returns to seasonal matters of spring rains and thunderstorms with occasional frosts and overnight freezes. I still have a couple gals left that will be applied later this summer in one last overcoat.
AWESOME results so far, everything went so smoothly, quickly, and with no unusual issues. A rarity that one seldom experiences in such matters. Especially at THIS time of year.
I'm ready to ROLL!!!!! Back to an "overnighter" instead of a hibernating bear in "a plastic cave"!!!! And even though canopy was up all winter, it's in EXCELLENT condition and over-wintered well. Hasn't been rolled up in MONTHS!!!
Congratulations on a experiment that went well, And dont forget every coat adds weight to Veh ! :)clap Frank
TREMENDOUS weight!!! Nearly 11lbs per gal with maybe 10% or less lost to evaporation. One can easily add 50lbs with 5gal, tape and sealants and it's all at the very top of the vehicle. May not seem like a lot, but it can be as much as .5-1% of total vehicle weight in a VERY undesirable location. I'm very conscious of any added weight, but especially weight that's highly positioned anywhere in the coach.
And adding more to it year after year. Too bad there is no way to strip the old before adding new.
I don't see if yall are using any denatured alohol or paint thinner/mineral spirits on your bare meatal roof before applying elastomeric roof sealer ..I have srubbed mine down with a scotch scrub pad with dawn dish liquid and i used a brush on it too and then i went over it with white vinegar and srubbed it again with the scotch pad ..do i need to wipwe it down with denatured alchohol or paint thinner ?mineral spirits to make sure its good and clean
i like brake clean
i have some brake clean and i have denatured alcohol and i have paint thinner ..what is different about the brake clean ? that's cool you can use it as a cleaner for the metal roof ..i have my roof shinning it is ready to be painted but want to clean it well for good adhesion of the black jack elastomeric roof coating
You also might try what automotive painters use known as "wax and grease remover". Has a bit of alcohol in it (not for human consumption) to mix with any water and evaporate it away. So, a cleaner that gets the car surface clean enough for paint to stick.
Available at automotive paint stores.
brake clean can be a controled aplication = little squirt/little rub & whats left over will evap
you sure you want to go with the black= heat magnet?
Black roof coating? Should avoid that if at all possible.
Brake cleaner will get real expensive real fast and it will eat any rubber seals or gaskets it touches. It is made for cleaning grease and oil off of brake drums and discs and should be used for that purpose. You can do a lot of damage using automotive chemicals for the wrong purpose.
Black roof will be like living in an oven! The AC will not be able to overcome the heat from the roof.
I agree with NOT using brake cleaner on your roof. You will likely create problems that you will not be able to easily repair. Compatibility between roof, gaskets, run off into any and all openings and your roofing product should be considered.
Also agree with avoiding black. My opinion is you will regret it..
Sounds like your prep so far is fine. Cleaning - very important. Rinsing well after cleaning - very important.
Your use of Scotch Brites is commendable. You want to avoid at all costs the use of steel wool. No matter how effective your final rinse may be steel wool will leave miniscule steel shreds behind. Steel plus any moisture, minimal as you may think, will result in rust points/stains down the road.
Black coating as opposed to white - you think your unit heats up with the original coating? My opinion is you will find it unbearable with a black coating.
do not fear ..lol ..the brand is "Black Jack " elastomeric roof coating ..it is white ..its the white elastomeric roof coating that Lowes sales ..it the 10 year warranty one ..I bought 1 gallon and I should have bought the 5 gallon ..I forgot how much it takes for a new roof ..I almost used the entire gallon ...but I cover all the plastic on the roof with it ..I think it makes the plastic hold up better with the sun beating down on it all the time ..I covered the plastic ac cover with it ..it is getting a little brittle and id rather not have to buy a new one right now so that hopefully helps it out for a little while ..it still in one piece so I want to get a little longer out of it ..I ended up wiping everything with the denatured alcohol before I put the elastomeric roof coating on it ..so it was good and clean ..I will pick up some more of the roof coating when I pass by a lowes ..I put a thermometer on top of the roof to check the temp before I painted it because it said not to put on in tempatures above 100 degrees ..its not even summer yet and we are having a little cooler weather right now and the roof temp was 120 degrees ..talk about hot feet ..lol ..so I had to wait to apply it after the roof cooled down..i also took the amber running lights off and I cleaned them good and caulked around them
Many "cleaners" leave an undesirable and sometimes undetectable residue behind that can be problematic when using latex based coatings. Most are petrochemical in nature or use a petrochemical "vehicle" that I find particularly stubborn to remove. While such solvents may be required in special circumstances, I try to avoid them as much as possible.
My preference for cleaning aluminum, is TSP,... tri-sodium phosphate. You'd be surprised at how well this works. Removes dirt, oil and most residues as well as oxidation and it rinses clean, ready to paint. An aluminum primer is sometimes suggested, although I find it unnecessary for latex based coatings.
Silicone caulk is IMPOSSIABLE to completely remove! It must literally be cut, scrapped and sanded away as best as one can. Fortunately, the latex based coatings seal and adhere pretty good to any residues left behind. There are much choices than silicone caulk, and I avoid it's use in every way I can!
Hi, we are new to this forum. We have a 1991 coachmen and have noticed a few leaks. We originally thought about putting Rhino liner on it. To our disappointment there is no one around here that does it. So we need a plan B, probably will do it ourselves. Thinking about Line-x or the traditional rubber roof. We are new to RVing and would love any suggestions. And I mean any suggestions, we need help! Hm?
Rhino and Line-X are for truck beds and are to prevent abuse not for waterproofing roofs. The very first thing you need to do is get up on the roof and determine the amount of damage under the roofing that is there. Are there any soft spots? Is it flexing more in one spot than another. Has the previous owner covered it with anything? What kind of roof is on it now? Rubber is probably the best and easiest to work with and preparation is the key to a good job. This is not something that gets done in a weekend. 90% of the time there is a substantial amount of damage under the roof that needs to be repaired before a new roof can be put on.
Leaks are always at places where there is a penetration through the roof. The ladder and roof racks are a biggie followed by the black water tank vent pipe flashing and then the various vents and skylights. The seams at the front and back of the roof and especially down the sides if you have a metal roof where it folds over and meets into the fiberglass siding. If there are any signs of the caulking at any of these spot failing then there is your leak. just remember that the structure under that leak will be damaged and needs to be checked.
There is a soft spot towards the back corner and one in the middle. You can see the seams where the plywood meets and it is flexing a little bit. We are a little unsure of what they used, it is either Kool Seal or Dycor. It's just a standard rubber roof with a trim piece around the edges. We are planning on removing the rubber and checking everything underneath it. We will replace any damaged wood and put the appropriate material in place. Any suggestions on products , Dycor vs Kool Seal or any other roofing material that will get the job done well. Thanks for your help, we appreciate it.
Replace with a new rubber roof