Last Sunday our 97 Gas Winni adventurer started to leak power steering fluid profusely it was so bad I called for a tow. Today I got a chance to find out where the leak is coming I took a photo and some video but I couldn't get too close since I was getting fluid on my phone but it's definitely a rusted line, I could see the fluid spewing out of it, it is right above a certain part in question that is on the right side of of the hyrdroboost that area is inaccessible unless a rusted old panel is removed, actually I think that might be the motor fan shroud, I don't see any other way of accessing it, I can't even see it with the doghouse open, As far as the hydroboost goes I had a good look at it it looks fairly new has the blue cylinder like I've seen on Oreilly's and there is no fluid anywhere around it as far as I can tell the only place leaking is that line, could it be a power steering pressure line and if so how is it replaced? A repair shop unfortunately is not an option at this time as it's pretty busy here in Corpus Christi at this time of year and we would be waiting weeks if we are lucky. I appreciate any knowledge someone might have on this.
That panel around the hydroboost need to come of. It's really only a protective cover to keep road debris from the wheel away from wheel.
Either take the front left tire off - or turn it all the way to the left. The panel has a row of bolts up against the frame rail and in front of the driver side tire, behind the headlight. And another single bolt right above the suspension.
Just take your time - soak all the bolts with penetrating fluid - a small impact and get that panel out of the way. Easier to get to all the Powersteering parts.
There are many things behind that cover which could leak, so hard to tell until you do more investigation. I've replaced:
- Hydroboost
- Pressure line from the Pump to the Hydroboost
- Pressure line from the Hydroboost to the Steering box
- No Pressure line from the box to the reservoir, (which was rusted through a clamp)
- Pressure switch for Autopark (yes the switch itself leaked PS-fluid out of the electric connector)
You need to figure out from to where the line goes - the lines with rubber flex pieces you can order online or at the autoparts store. The fixed metal lines are more difficult, I had a local hydraulic shop make one. - take it out (lot's of screwed clips holding them down)
All the best, let us know which line it was.
From what I was able to see as seen in the picture I was able to take after I posted, it's a rusted out line, with the doghouse open I was able to see it looks like a line going to or coming from the Hydroboost. My guess would be since it's leaking power steering fluid with a lot of air pressure, it could be the line that runs from the PS pump to the Hydroboost. One symptom I've noticed is it leaks as soon as the engine is started without applying the breaks or the steering turned I take it that's normal? I've read on here that some have been able to get away with moving the master cylinder aside to replace the Hydroboost, I think you also mentioned this in a post from Dec 2021. Anyhow I was thinking since that is the case I should be able to remove the bad line from the Hydroboost in the same manner, since that line needs to be disconnected to remove the Hydroboost, but it seems that the harder part to access is the PS pump from what you were saying no way to access it without taking out that panel. So based on what you were saying it would seem the metal line is not easy to find at local auto parts shops only the flex and I would need to have it made at a hydraulics shop like you did? Can you ident the part in the 3rd photo? The line in question is above that part. I appreciate the help.
All lines in the steering system get some pressure as soon as the engine runs. The pressure line from the Pump to the hydro and then to the box have a few hundred PSI.
The "No pressure lines" still have a few PSI. So anything would leak when the engine runs.
Just it get worse when you either brake or steer. Leaks when braking is usually the Hydroboost unit itself.
(https://www.classicwinnebagos.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2F67-72chevytrucks.com%2Fvboard%2Fattachment.php%3Fattachmentid%3D1946820%26amp%3Bstc%3D1%26amp%3Bd%3D1570389315&hash=823fe087a9d7f46e865f59cc13999363771d8add)
Your leak is closer to the steering box (3rd Picture)- and when you traced the rusted line to the hydroboost, then it could be the hard steel line, I had to get made.
Not saying you can't order it today - when I had the issue in 2016 - it was not available. Doesn't mean that's true today.
You don't need to replace line to the pump if, it's not leaking.
http://dave78chieftain.com/hydroboost_brakes.html
Just giving you a heads up that that there are alternatives in case you are unable to find one.
Taking the panel of is really not a big deal. Takes me with a impact drive less then 10 minutes - and after that it's really easy to work on everything.
Including replacing all lines - or the Hydroboost - like I described in the other thread.
With the panel on you will be $@!#@! $@!#@! swearing a lot and try to work in those confined spaces without visibility.
Ok so than that's normal I take it you saw the photos I attached? For some reason I don't see them in the post, it does seem that it's the metal line, I don't suppose I could just cut the line where it's cracked and run flex hose from one end to the other rather than replace the line, my guess is no as rusted as the line is it could break again. Yesterday I soaked 5 bolts on the panel with Lucas penetrating oil, did I miss a bolt? I don't own an impact wrench and can't borrow one. All I have is a socket wrench set, whatever tools I had I lost in the Oregon wildfires in 2020 and I've not replaced everything, I do own a corded Makita drill but to alot good that's going to do me in removing that panel lol.
With normal you mean - it's only leaking when it's running? "normal" in a sense that you only have high pressure when it's running, so the leak is not huge yet.
When the leak progresses it starts dripping even when not running.
Handtools should be fine - just takes a bit longer.
I like my small impact since when working on rusted old parts - it gets bolts and screws open which would have been a lot of work.
Lol I didn't count bolts when I took the panel down. But sounds about right.
I guess by normal I was referring to there being pressure in the lines with just the engine running. So than I take it by your not mentioning it, my idea of not replacing the line but cutting and joining with flex is a no go?
yes as soon as the engine is off the pressure is gone within seconds.
You can replace the hard line with a complete flex line. Like a new long rubber line with two screw fittings crimped at both ends.
But trying to "fix" it with a hose clamp and a piece of line, I would only do for - getting somewhere to do a permanent repair.
The Powersteering system is running your brakes and your steering - if it bleeds out you loose both. Not a good day.
Everybody has to do what they have to do but for your safety, I would recommend that don't be cheap on those components.
I certainly don't want to cut corners I'm more concerned with time and parts availability. Speaking of which I found this on Oreilly's is this similar to the flex rubber hose you referred to? https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c/precision-power-steering/precision-power-steering-hose/opr0/13401744?q=Power+Steering+flex+hose&pos=0 If I can get the parts in a reasonable amount of time than so much the better. Do you remember what the socket size is for the panel bolts I don't want to risk stripping them? Thanks
The panel bolts had been very close to a 10mm, probably a 3/8
pretty sure at the Hydroboost there had been a 16mm and 18mm. The 90s P30 are a mix of SAE and Metric fasteners.
I don't know if the fittings at the steering box are the same, but as I know GM they probably are.
Yep that line at O-Reilly is the style I'm referring to but, it only has one end with a fitting - such is not a pressure hose - but for the return.
(https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/uk0AAOSwlNdhsLns/s-l300.jpg)
this is what I mean. You remove the hardline and get a matching flex line with the correct ends.
When you got the panel off and verified that the hardline is leaking - you unscrew it from the box and the Hydroboost, undo a bunch of clips holding it in and go with it to the next Autoparts store - there you can match the ends and length.
If you can get it out in one piece, you can cut it, - the ends are the important parts.
Or like I did - Hydraulics store. Wasn't expensive back then, or at least I remember being surprised that it was less then expected :angel:
Well looks like Oreilly's has just the thing close to 50 bucks https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c/precision-power-steering/precision-power-steering-hose/opr0/13401274?q=Power+Steering+flex+hose&pos=2 I guess I'm going to need the right size monkey wrench to get those fittings off and on Right now my bigger challenge appears to be those panel bolts as they are really rusty, I don't have a lot of torque in my socket wrench, I'm afraid if I try to use a breaker bar or a pipe if there is even room I might break the bolt. I try 3/8 socket but it's too small these bolts are closer to 13, 14 mm. But the socket doesn't hold so I guess it's standard and not metric?
GM transitioned starting in the early 90s from Standard to Metric, but not all at once. So every Model year is different.
Further you never know what the house builder (Winnebago) did modify to make the floorplan work.
80s and earlier P30 are mostly standard fasteners - 2000s are mostly metric fasteners. The 90s are a unpredictable mix. I got both socket sets by now.
If you can't get the socket on it's probably standard. For rusted bolts that impact I mentioned is really beneficial. If you can get a good fitting socket on there and breaker bar - instead of turning it and risk braking the bolt - you can tap the end of the bar with a hammer. (on opening direction) Give it a few short wacks and then spray it again with penetrating fluid.
the hammering opens up some gaps for the fluid to get better in.
The hose you found looks pretty good from the ends - just have to check if it's long enough. Even says from Hydroboost to gear. (Gear = Steering Gear = Steering Box ,just different terms for the same thing)
Yes an impact would make life easier. On a side note yet same note. When I got towed last Sunday it was with a wrecker, I requested a flatbed to avoid the issue I'm about to share. The driveshaft had to be removed to tow, but the driver/owner would not put it back and I got the shaft! Because the ujoint bolts were rusted more like fused he only took one off each clamp. He told me that whoever would be fixing the leak would have to put the shaft back on, that would be at the time,but than he offered to help me put it back on, well it's dark and we couldn't get the slip yoke lined, no surprise since he didn't mark it when it came out. Anyhow I've got the slip yoke in but not the Ujoint because of a rusted stripped bolt head, I think he stripped it when he was trying to get the shaft off, fused bolt on a clamp that broke. The left two of the bolts I bought a strap kit for the other two, lucky I did since one the clamps broke off. So now I have to extract that bolt and probably will have to replace the other clamp as well.
So here's the kicker, yesterday I started the engine to charge up the battery, not remembering I had part of the shaft connected. As soon as the engine started the driveshaft started spinning, I immediately killed the engine to avoid any potential damage. Within minutes a young fellow who is in the space behind me comes by to tell me that my driveshaft is off, he agreed that the driveshaft should not have engaged in neutral but I'm not so sure about. I informed him of the situation, it turns out he's a auto mechanic, his buddy also a mechanic was commenting earlier how my driveshaft is off, so longer story shorter, he is offering to help me out with both issues. I checked the drive shaft and other than the needle bearings I had recently greased and repacked it was intact, it had hit the muffler but didn't damage it if had gone to the right instead, chances are it would have hit the propane tank and I wouldn't be relating this story right now.
you might want to put this story together in a different threat to keep this one cohesive on this topic.
Sorry that you have to go through this. Poop always comes in piles, it seems some days.
But on the upside, you got some help now! The p30 Power steering system should be pretty straight forward to figure out for a professional mechanic.
I'm just a hobbyist trying to help
Ok where would be a good place to share the story?
The spinning driveshaft is still p30 related:
https://www.classicwinnebagos.com/forum/index.php?board=4.0
And just talking about the challenges of the Lifestyle goes here:
https://www.classicwinnebagos.com/forum/index.php?board=69.0
Ok, thanks for that info about the driveshaft. So, while waiting to see what is going to happen with the auto mechanic I recently met, I spoke with a local RV Mechanic I've been trying to reach since last week, a few minutes ago. He is adamant that he has experienced this type of issue on this type of chasis and according to him the only way to to access the busted line is to remove the front grill, headlight and I think he said radiator I couldn't understand him half the time he sounded like he was underwater. I told him I was in touch with an owner who has a similar issue and similar chasis, and and about access through the driver side after removing the panels and he just kept insisting the front grill has to come, is this guy on the level or just does it the hard way for the big bucks? He said something about how much it would cost and it has to be done in the shop, he asked if I could text him a photo of the front so I will humor him. What do you think?
https://www.classicwinnebagos.com/forum/index.php?topic=14357.0
(https://www.wholesalegmpartsonline.com/images/parts/gm/fullsize/851120TP06-027.JPG)
there are 4 lines in the Powersteering system. Maybe that mechanic was talking about a different one. I had my fair share if issues communicating which part is broken.
The most difficult to get to line is the - Pump to Hydroboost (6). - It's really difficult to get to the Pump side in the engine block. I think when you described it - it's part number 12 on this diagram. Maybe 13.
But everything else is behind the cover accessible from the Driver side wheel well. I mean - I don't know what Winnebago did in your model year, maybe the welded in some supports my year doesn't have. It's not an easy repair to get the lines out and remade - by not $1800 difficult. I've replaced the Hydroboost two months ago in about 4 hours - and I'm just a hobby mechanic. So part of that replacement process is to unbolt in the Hard Powersteering line from the chassis. It would have been like two more bolts to get the lines out.
Can you get some pictures of the interior of your wheel well posted? I go through my pictures for the Hydroboost replacement later and see if I have the Powersteering lines somewhere displayed.
That's a very detailed diagram, I would have to say based on what I saw, it's lines 11 and 12 that I was looking at from the doghouse but it's only one of them that's leaking. I met with the mechanic I've been waiting on yesterday and I will have to show it to him. By wheel well do you mean from the view from the doghouse? I think I can get some shots with it open. The lines going to the reservoir are full of rust so I"m going to have the reservoir since the lines are welded to it and the lines replaced just to be on the safe side. The reservoir was only $24 at Oreilly's and the lines are pretty inexpensive.
On a different but related note, he was working on putting my drive shaft back on but clamps that hold the Ujoint in place are rusted as are the bolts so I bought a strap kit but the clamps are a hair too big, I need to figure out the exact size of them so the driveshaft can be installed back. Unfortunately the only Ujoint kit is Dorman Orielly's and Autozone that's all they have, was gonna try Napa and see if they know and have it. Any idea about that partl?
Edit on the assumption that it's the doghouse, I accessed the wheel well and I can't say I'm 100% certain but I don't think it's the return line there is only 1 line going to the Hydroboost that I could see I took a good picture of it really rusted the fitting doesn't lol k too good either I soaked it in penetrating oil, the job won't be done till Sat. so I figure there is plenty of time. I also took some video. I'll see if I can upload it somewhere and link to it. Now as far as the other end of the line, that most likely going to the PS pump, if the setup is the same can be accessed from the side without having to take off the front grill? Including a photo of the front outside for comparison. 1 quick question shouldn't the line that goes to the power steering pump be as easy or hard as replacing the power steering pump itself. So did you have to replace your PS pump at one time or know of someone who did how hard or easy was it? Attached are some photos from the assumed doghouse, line is rusted bad going to the Hydroboost, fitting not looking too good. I hit it with some penetrating oil should be good to go by Sat. when the job is done. Thanks
Like I said in my first response in this post.
Most repairs can be done through the driver side wheel well. But the easiest is removing the access panel in the well.
Taking the tire off makes it even more accessible but is not necessary.
I think I understand now you mean the heat shield from the doghouse. That's why you have the large bolts.
I mean the large steel panel which is screwed from the outside in the well
So your saying the wheel well is accessible through inside the coach from the doghouse? When say heat shield, how different is that from the panel you removed?What the other end of the line from the Hydroboost is tha still doable considering the heat shield?
Let's reset here.
You can replace the lines without opening the doghouse, at all.
(https://www.classicwinnebagos.com/forum/gallery/8/7089-180322130000.jpeg)
This picture was taken - from the driver side tire. - you can see the end of the power steering lines in front of the brake booster.
The engine is on the right - transmission is behind.
Above you see the frame rail where the driver seat sits on.
While doing the repair I was sitting inside the wheel well - on the ground.
Is that the line that looks like it's disconnected?
I'm with eXodous on this one, I too had some exposure to the hydro boost system. First you will need to Jack up the RV to get at the work, dismount the tire and most importantly brace that RV up so it cannot fall on you. I cannot stress that enough.
Once up and wheels off can you get at all the components with the tools you have? You may well have to buy new tools, harbor freight is a good place for such matters.
As to the mechanics opinion, first he's doing the job and he has every right to do it his way. He may very well refuse to do it under tight conditions. (Hard to get at). More than probably there will be a lot of maneuvering around simply to get it out and serviced.
Do you have a good tool inventory are you capable of doing a lot of up and down maneuvering? If you have both of those going for you then move forward..oh and some time this job may require a few days and some patience. A lot of patience sometimes.
Quote from: Adventure on May 20, 2022, 11:32 AM
Is that the line that looks like it's disconnected?
yes, you can see the end of the hardline going to the gear disconnected on the left side of the brake booster
The line which is dangling over the booster is the flex line coming from the pump.
The Hydroboost and all it's mounting hardware is remove in this picture.
Eyez Open is correct, be safe. It's not a fun job, Jacking up an RV is dangerous when you don't know what you are doing. The mechanic maybe is quoting to use an option he is familiar with and not endangering him.
Like his work quote states, there is a lot of stuff to remove to get to the gear from the front.
Get a second quote, around here I got lucky with Commercial Fleet stops, which are servicing Bread trucks and Step Vans. Those are more familiar with the P30. McGee for example.
Yes you are both correct, a lot has ensued since my last post I have had the good fortune to find a mechanic with Army experience, he was able to remove the dust panel and get the hardline out, without jacking it up or turning the wheel, it helps he's only 5'6". I had gone to Oreilly's prior to his doing that, but instead of ordering Hydroboost to gearbox I ordered the wrong hose, I was able to get the correct one same day since they had in the store but unfortunately the fitting diameter is not big enough. So the other mechanic who works with him also military experience in the Navy, he tried using some JB weld muffler for a temporary fix till we could locate the correct hard line, which I was telling them unless we can locate a Chevy OEM part it will most likely need to be made at a hydro shop, any how I argued it was a high pressure line and it was not likely it would work, it cured for a few hours and than tried with the engine on to bleed the line but it didn't hold. So the mechanic is on the lookout for a line and I need to start calling hydro shops. I put some regular JB Weld so I'm going to wait for it to cure for 24 hours and try again. Glad to say the drive shaft is back on. I'll keep you posted on the developments.
Yeah being 5'6" certainly helps. My 6'3" frame didn't wanted to fit underneath the RV without turning the wheel and jacking it up.
That JB weld won't hold for long. There are 1300-1600psi inside that line. Will leak again sooner or later.
You don't necessary need to put back in a hardline - you can take the hardline out - go to a shop and try to find a flex line which has the same ends and lenght.
Or have a shop make one with a rubber piece in the middle.
You got multiple options:
1. Find the GM original Hardline (difficult)
2. Get a new hardline made at the Hydraulic shop (depends)
3. Find a flex line from another GM products which fits the dimensions
4. Have a flex line made (hydraulic shop)
when you already got it all apart -
Get also the Pump - to Hydroboost line replaced. The rubber line in your picture already looks gray - so it's probably old.
Should be running you somewhere between $30-60 (+local inflation) Now would it's easy to get to it.
When you got those -you have to two main pressure lines replaced.
Pump - to Hydro (very high pressure)
Hydro - to Gear (high pressure)
The other two lines for the returns are not as stressed since they don't carry significant pressure.
Yes you are probably right about the JB weld, good to know there are options. If you are referring to the hose with the shiny clamp coming from the Hydroboost, that's a brand new hose I bought at 0reilly's it's cut to size but I had to buy a whole hose. New development, the good news there is a tiny drop leak now from the hard line the bad news there is a new leak closer to the passenger side leaking profusely power steering fluid, power steering pump? I took some photos of where it is so should be easily identified, Any chance some Blue Devil might save me a replacement?
You are talking about the return line with the clamp. It goes from Hydroboost to reservoir.
I'm referring to the line above the blue cylinder on the hydro boost which screws in. It starts with a hardline - goes rubber and then back to a hardline.
When you follow that one you get to pump usually on the left side of the engine block.
If I see the picture correct - whatever is leaking there is on the right passenger side of the engine block. You are sure that's power steering fluid?
Looks kinda reddish - transmission fluid ?
The other option is that a former owner installed a power steering fluid cooler, which is is now leaking.
I see what you are talking about, maybe I would have better luck finding a flex one with fittings that fit locally. I too was wondering if the leak was ATF, although I don't know where it would be leaking from? I tried to match the leaked fluid to ATF but it doesn't match on a paper towel and the smell doesn't smell like ATF I checked the recently filled power steering reservoir and it was empty. I checked the ATF transmission dip stick albeit cold and it was full, didn't want to warm up the engine at the risk of losing more fluid. As for it possibly being a after market PS cooler the part doesn't look anything like where it's leaking from. So what could be causing this new leak? worn tramsmission pan gasket? Front transmission pump, could this be related to the drive shaft?
Like it or not people do use transmission fluid in power steering pumps. Bad ideal but things happen.
From the transmission there are two hard-lines running on the passenger side frame rail of the engine to the radiator at the front.
Inside the radiator the transmission fluid get cooled. But when it's not red on a towel it could be another leak from the power steering system.
Where is your reservoir mounted? Is that round cylinder in the second picture the part where the fluid is coming from? You are sure it's not just dripping from above? I've never seen a cylinder like this on any of my two P30 I owned.
From the picture your RV looks pretty rusty, might be just my perception - since I'm usually dealing with rust free Florida vehicles.
Rust belt vehicles parts can just fail randomly. Might be worth looking into the history of the RV.
True but based on the fact that the PS reservoir level isn't going down and the Transmission fluid based on the dipstick level is I'm inclined to believe it has nothing to do with the power steering. I wish it did, at least I wouldn't have a new issue to deal with.
Quote from: eXodus on May 29, 2022, 05:46 AM
From the transmission there are two hard-lines running on the passenger side frame rail of the engine to the radiator at the front.
Inside the radiator the transmission fluid get cooled. But when it's not red on a towel it could be another leak from the power steering system.
Well it appears to be pink on a paper towel but when leaking it's deep red like ATF.
QuoteWhere is your reservoir mounted? Is that round cylinder in the second picture the part where the fluid is coming from? You are sure it's not just dripping from above? I've never seen a cylinder like this on any of my two P30 I owned.
My PS reservoir is mounted in front it's the old metal cylinder and while it's rusted pretty good it doesn't appear to leaking, replacing it is a headache as it's bolted from the inside of the frame. I think it's dripping from above that round cylinder related to the transmission cooler? It's most likely another rusted line that went.
QuoteFrom the picture your RV looks pretty rusty, might be just my perception - since I'm usually dealing with rust free Florida vehicles.
Rust belt vehicles parts can just fail randomly. Might be worth looking into the history of the RV.
Yes it's a rust bucket it sat on the Oregon Coast for almost a year before we bought it and before that it was in Montana so it's seen it's share of salt. We didn't have much affordable options available after losing our home. Not much I can do about that, we don't really move around in it much it's more. a trailer to us than a RV. Edit I pinpointed it to a line that goes from upper radiator to what I believe in the picture is the transmission oil cooler? The lines are not easily replaced if I can find it. That part of the line is known for rusting a lot. There is a quick fix with hoses and clamps but the line has to severed to do that and so far it's not a big hole, so since I still have some JB Weld left I decided to see if I can at least plug the leak till I can figure out my next move I'll give it 24 hours to cure and see if it worked. It's not as high pressure as the break boost line, so maybe it will hold. Will keep you posted.
Yes this is the Transmission fluid oil cooler.
Seems like those lines are gone from all the rust. Get some new ones, when you can afford it.
Getting those out is a bit more challenging.
Definitely pressure is much lower somewhere in the 100-200PSI range. Not 1300-1600 PSI like the Power Steering systems runs at.
But still not insignificant.
Those lines you can probably cut somewhere rust free and fit a compression fitting over the line or use some rubber hose with double hose clamps.
I had a feeling I was on the right track, yes those two line are very rusty, the timing of the break booster line and the cooler line rusting same time, is not good, luckily I may still have a mechanic to work on these. Yes those lines are hard to get at, as far as compression fitting or hose and clamps go I would still have to get the part of the line out do you know if the end fittings are clip type like most Chevy GMC are or is it the screw in type? Back to the Hydroboost hard line, I talked to a local hydro shop they said they could come up with something might take 2 hours for a hard line, how long did it take the hydraulics shop to make the line? I went to Ace and was able to determine that the fittings are 1/8 and 3/4 standard, so there is the problem with any of of the parts flex hoses they are all metric. On a separate but related note, it's no surprise as you can see in the photo master cylinder lines are very rusty and should be replaced, any experience with that?
Finally got the power steering line made at a place recommended by Freightliner, cost 80 bucks, since part of it had to be welded, hooked it up no more PS leak, as for the cooler line JB Weld has turned it into a little leak, gonna try JB Water Weld and see if I can plug up that leak if not I bought some heater hose and clamps and might have to spice it.
:) :)ThmbUp
$80 for the hardline doesn't sound bad.
those brake lines are not looking good.
You really got some rusty RV there. Mine was a 95 and always outside and had only surface rust. Hard Brake lines fairly easy for a shop with the equipment. They are easy to bend with hand tools
Everything is GM standard parts, a P30 RV is just a large Chevy Pickup (2001 and earlier). Metal parts might be bend different on the p30, but the threads are the same as from a similar time era heavy duty truck.
My current one is a later version of the P30 - and I usually search for Chevy Express parts - which 90% of the time are a perfect match. But here it's the other way around - I think the Express Van was designed based on the P30
I suppose so considering some flex lines cost more, yes they don't look good it's a wonder we were able to get to Texas from Oregon the way they are. Yes it's a real rust bucket and I'm not happy about it. It doesn't help that it's been here on the Gulf for the last year no doubt the salt air is contributing to it. I don't have the ability to go to a shop right now considering we are living in it full time, we don't go far from the campground although there is always the chance of having to evacuate for a potentially bad storm. I'll just have to pray they hold up a little longer seeing how it's not something that can be done outside the shop. Yes that's why when I order parts I always specify Chevy P30.
Nice that you fixed the powersteering leak! Success.
You can do brake lines in a parkinglot, it's just easier and faster in a shop, where you can get the RV up on to a lift.
Mechanics are paid by the hour, so in a shop (just picking random numbers here - no idea how long it would really take)
the line replacement would be 4 hours
A mobile mechanic might need 6-8 hours - because can't get to the lines as easy. You going to pay more the mobile repair.
Brake lines are mostly labor cost - the parts are cheap. Start getting some quotes from different commercial truck places to get them replaced.
Yes but as you might see picture 3 there is still a tiny leak, could be a fitting on the hose is not tight enough.need to rotate photo 45 degrees right to see the drop of fluid, for some reason it uploaded in that way. I tried to edit the angle but it didn't take. The line they made has only one connector angled the other side straight I chose to connect the straight one to the gearbox in retrospect I think I should have reversed it since I think the hose will keep the panel from going on, I would think the the angled part should go on the gearbox, luckily the fittings are switchable. As far as break lines go I'm going to like you said get some quotes I'll call around, I doubt a mobile mechanic here will be willing to touch it. On that note, the mechanic who got the panel and line off is too busy so picked up where he left off only thing is I have a very bad before picture of how the panel was on, wiring and what not, tomorrow we are only going a few miles to the beach so I zip tied the 2 electrical conduits and I scre leak attached the metal line as you can see in the pictures, at first I thought that line was the e-break but a quick check determined that's not the case. I tested and all 3 are free of the wheel turning should be ok for a few miles back and forth but I really need to figure out how it goes back any photos or diagrams would be helpful also I only have 5 of the bolts but I counted 6 holes, I think you may have said you had only 5 bolts?
It's an old RV could have lost that bolt a long time ago for that piece of metal.
All the wire harness are tied up against the frame rail inside those rings. The metal flex pipe you are showing there is either the transmission shifter or the handbrake for the rear wheels. When you got the Autopark - or E-Brake it's likely the shifter.
Focus on getting your current leaks fixed (powersteering and transmission) the brake lines look ugly but could hold up a few more days. Just don't plan cross country trips on those anymore.
Just remember to use a flare wrench when undoing those brake lines- you can get crowsfoot versions of them too
Quote from: eXodus on June 10, 2022, 05:54 AM
It's an old RV could have lost that bolt a long time ago for that piece of metal.
All the wire harness are tied up against the frame rail inside those rings. The metal flex pipe you are showing there is either the transmission shifter or the handbrake for the rear wheels. When you got the Autopark - or E-Brake it's likely the shifter.
Focus on getting your current leaks fixed (powersteering and transmission) the brake lines look ugly but could hold up a few more days. Just don't plan cross country trips on those anymore.
To confirm the harness wires go into the grey ring? I think the mechanic broke off the part that screws in. I might have to rig it with zip ties or something? How vital is this panel? My guess is very considering it protects the gearbox and booster line, speaking of I don't know if the panel can go on with the new booster line sticking out like it is, I'm thinking a hole may need to be cut to accommodate it, like I said I can try switching the ends but now I will introduce more air into the system and have to bleed it again. What is that metal clip for, the shifter cable? Does the shifter cable stay inside where I have it attached now?
I'm going to attempt to put the panel back with the limited information I have if someone has a photo or diagram now would be a good time to share it. I couldn't do it, looks like I either cut a slot in the panel for the hose connection or switch the connectors, I also can't figure out what goes where, I wish had taken a photo before it was taken off. I really could use some help here. Thanks
the panel goes in first
- the transmission shifter cable second - it will stay inside the wheel well, not on the engine side.
- then the wire loom in the upper most corner. Hanging from those rings.
From which section do you need a picture?
The section where the wire loom goes from inside to out, what does the transmission shifter cable connect to? Would you agree it's best to switch the lines ends so that the panel can fit rather than cut a hole for the hose to stick out seeing how it won't be protected?
I would turn the power steering line around to get the panel to fit. Bleeding the systems is not difficult.
Just raise the front the tires of the floor. Start the engine and let a helper turn the steering slowly side to side - about 10 times while you watch and refill the reservoir.
it's pretty difficult to upload pictures here.
I've send you a PM with my email - just answer there and I can get you a few pictures.
I don't see how it's difficult to post attachments. i??
Quote from: eXodus on June 23, 2022, 06:15 AM
I would turn the power steering line around to get the panel to fit. Bleeding the systems is not difficult.
Just raise the front the tires of the floor. Start the engine and let a helper turn the steering slowly side to side - about 10 times while you watch and refill the reservoir.
it's pretty difficult to upload pictures here.
I've send you a PM with my email - just answer there and I can get you a few pictures.
Turned the steering line around, elevated the front tires on a block of wood, did the turn slow side to side and refill the reservoir but the pump sounds really bad and there's grinding sound and there's bubbles in the reservoir, tried to continue to bleed but no change, any thoughts? Scratch that, needed to turn full lock and tighten a loose fitting, it's purring like a kitten now.
I'm assuming you had a leak and it was sucking air until you tightened that fitting?