HI Guys,
After I introduces myself in https://www.classicwinnebagos.com/forum/index.php?topic=16252.0 we now will dig in the mess created by the former owners hobbying skills in electronics N:(
I myself are not a real electrician also, but understanding it. For me there is one golden rule. Don't go diggin in the original wiring Harness, but add and color code.
I wished somebody told the former owner of my Dodge Minnie Winnie that, because the amount of Car Wire Cable Clips and plastic insulate brass connectors and therefore corroded wires i have found after i opened up the dash and the hood are unbelievable.
(https://www.classicwinnebagos.com/forum/gallery/16109_12_07_23_9_24_36.jpeg)
(https://www.classicwinnebagos.com/forum/gallery/16109_12_07_23_10_53_10.jpeg)
(https://www.classicwinnebagos.com/forum/gallery/16109_12_07_23_10_53_56.jpeg)
(https://www.classicwinnebagos.com/forum/gallery/16109_12_07_23_10_58_39.jpeg)
The radio was connected with such a lenght of orange wires (one color to be used for all connections) i could take the radio out of the dash and lay it on the salontable which is positioned behind the drivers seat, as long as I disconnected the antenna.
(https://www.classicwinnebagos.com/forum/gallery/16109_13_07_23_12_16_22.jpeg)
After getting all the orange out I looked deeper in to the wiring and felt more like crying by the minute. Red and black wires were clipped together disapearing in the dash or in wired cable harnesses. When i later tried to start the engine it wouldn't start and just gave 1 turn. Measuring with my multimeter I had 11.52 volts at the battery and 8.52 at the car electronics even after playing with the connectors at the batterypoles.
I connected a batterycharger with starter capacity. Charging 25 amps, 13,42 at the poles but 1 volt less at the car electronics. I could start the engine however.
So i started by sanding all connector, and it did improve. For testing purposes I had the ignition on (without the motor running) and noticed that my ignition coil gets boiling hot when I do that. Is this normal? (Ignition coil is fine when motor is running)
It doens't stop there because the alternator isn't charging. (I found this out when buying the car) the strangest thing however is the fact that I saw my balast resistor wasn't connected (normally it shouldn't be possible to start the car?) but after I did connect the breaker circuit there was some charging capacity but not enough.
Headlights and High beam don't work anymore, and as far as I remember they did when I tested them buying the RV.
(https://www.classicwinnebagos.com/forum/gallery/16109_12_07_23_9_33_53.jpeg)
And last but not least, my Oil pressure gauge isn't working. I have a three way sending unit (red, black and white) and the white one isn't connected. I still have to find the right wire for the gauge. I've found severeal wire diagrams on internet but none tells me the right wire for the oil gauge.
So... HELP! ;) :D
Wow it seems I'm really the only one having this problem. Hm?
I've found a big help here on the forum, the 1978 - 1982 Dodge Motorhome Chassis service manual. If you are planning doing the maintenance at your motorhome yourself. Buy it. It is tremendous source of information of 490 pages.
There is also a wiring diagram in there but unfortunately the colorcoding don't seem to match. The diagram itself however does so it's still a big help and started to dug in to the mess myself.
As i found out, you don't seem to need to cut into your wiring. just try to find the multiple connection points to be found under the dash. they are connected directly to your fusebox. 1 for your dashlights (with dimming from your headlight switch), connected to fuse 1. One to the ignitionswitch connected to fuse 2 (cutting of power when you shut off the ignition) and one ground. If there's more i will re-edit the post. Be smart and mark them with function and fusenumber for future reference.
(https://www.classicwinnebagos.com/forum/gallery/16109_13_07_23_12_15_18.jpeg)
(https://www.classicwinnebagos.com/forum/gallery/16109_13_07_23_12_14_31.jpeg)
So all the cutting in the wiring by the former owner was completely unnecessary. (except for the radio perhaps because the radio has a seperate fuse.) A lesson to take here is, inform yourself of the functionalities of your vehicle. It will save you a lot of headaches afterwards.
Finding these connectionpoints I decided to rip all of the former's owner handywork out (calling him an $@!#@! multiple time with every wire :angel:) and reconnect his add-ons i want to keep. To my big suprise the domelight started to function the right way. ??? ??? ???
the way it worked was: remove the lamp from the socket when you don't want light, (and burn your fingers when the light gets to hot $@!#@!) replace the lamp when you do want light. :D
Now it functions again like it should. When the driver or passengerside door opens or when you turn the headswitch the light goes on. :)clap :)clap :)clap
What were the add ons I've found.
- dashlight for the Hazardlights (because both turn-signall lights flashing at once isn't clear enough) D:oH!
- dashlight that flashes one time only when you turn left or right, My suspicions are that the light actually checks the turnsignals on your trailer. I had one on my Opel Kadett many, many years ago. As I don't have a trailer i can't test.
- '90's aftermarket radio/cd player
- wiper interval
- Cruisecontrol
- rocker switch for the highbeam.
The lights i will need to keep, because two holes in your dash isn't an option.
The radio will be replaced and connected decently to the auxiliary battery.
The Wiper interval and cruisecontrol I will keep of course.
The Wiper interval didn't seem to work correctly, and here is the reason why you NEVER use Car wire cable clips. They cut into the insulation of your wiring hence expose your wiring to the elements. As the contact between clip and wiring is minimum you will get malfunctions as soon everything starts to corode. Although they seem very handy and tidy, DONT USE THEM if you don't want future problems.
And as last, if you add items to your car and connect them directly to your battery, it really is advisable to put a fusible link between the battery and the item you are connecting so the next owner doesn't find the:
Headlight directly connected to the battery (Blue wire), without fusible link.
(https://www.classicwinnebagos.com/forum/gallery/16109_12_07_23_10_53_10.jpeg)
Wiper interval directly connected to the battery, without fusible link (Red wire)
That the former owner didn't burn this motorhome to the ground really is one of gods true miracles. :D :D :D
two questions at the end.
The air shaft (picture 3) runs down to the firewall so water runs freely over all the electricity attached to the firewall (see picture below). If you look carefully you'll see raindrops hanging and falling on the battery. IS there anybody out there who did something about this?
(https://www.classicwinnebagos.com/forum/gallery/16109_09_07_23_10_32_01.jpeg)
Does anybody has the right fusebox index for a 1979 dodge M400 chassis. I've found one of a 1983 Ram Van and altough it seems pretty accurate I seem to miss some items on this list or there are items on there that aren't there in my motorhome.
Quite a job there. I fear electical problems almost as much as an angry wife.
And true, having a shop manual is the most important tool to have.
:)clap :)clap :)clap
Yes, both are not wishable :D
Luckily I don't have a angry wife (yet) W% Wiring problems more and more.
I pretty much found out there is almost nothing the former owner didn't get his hand on and me asking constantly, why the hell would you do that (in the way you did).
Now autumn has arrived it's raining cats and dogs here in the Netherlands and altough the motorhome has a hood, i found out sitting in the motorhome with the doghouse off it raining as hard inside the motor compartment as out and therefore a lot of connectors are corroded, but how you could think that you can solve your problems by adding cable clips is beyond me. Should there be a seal between the hood and the chassis? I doubt there ever was one because there is no glue residue.
I guess i will end up replacing the wiring harness which will be not be easy as I found out my motorhome is the California edition with all the extra (emission) sensors. If you look at the Motorhome manual and the wiring diagram, there should be an extra panel to read out all the sensors, but it's not there. It's getting more confusing by the minute, because when you can't read them out why add all the sensors and wiring?
As I tried to fix my oil pressure gauge (still didn't succeed) I found the speed switch emission.
(https://www.classicwinnebagos.com/forum/gallery/16109_12_07_23_9_43_44.jpeg)
(https://www.classicwinnebagos.com/forum/gallery/16109_12_07_23_9_44_22.jpeg)
The sealant of the circuitboard is damages due to dirt and moisture. Could this be the reason my oilpressure gauge isn't working as the cables from the oilpressure switch seem to be connected to it. I'm totally confused why. There is no information to be found about it so what does it do?
As I hope everybody understands I'm loosing a tremendous amount of time figuring out not only the former owners handywork but Chrysler as well, so still hoping there is somebody on the forum here that can help me.
Answer given HERE (https://www.classicwinnebagos.com/forum/index.php?topic=16302.msg99991#msg99991)
No seal between the hood and engine compartment.
I allready thought so.
I have to figure this out because this won't do. N:(
The waterleakage caused more problems, I will add a picture tomorrow.
I actually made great progress last week. I've finally found the problem with my oil pressuremeter. I've found the right wire underneath the wiring and 1mm thick layer of gunk that's covering the whole engine. It was at least a good sealant to all the water entering the engine compartment. :)
the problem however was the oilmeter maxed out as soon as it was connected. As to expect the former owner solved this by yanking the wire. Why would you need a oil pressure gauge?
Investigation showed my oil level sensor is dead and it seems I'm not the only one with the problem. I put it on notify at Rock Auto, received an email it was in again with limited stock, but within the hour it was allready gone leaving me empty handed. :(
(https://www.classicwinnebagos.com/forum/gallery/16109_13_07_23_12_56_58.jpeg)
(https://www.classicwinnebagos.com/forum/gallery/16109_13_07_23_2_24_14.jpeg)
Furthermore I brought the car lighting back to original, yanking all the cable wire clips and short circuits the former owner created which melted one of the connections of my dimmer switch. and that makes the 3rd reason I believe it's one of gods miracles the idiot didn't burn the motorhome down as the connection was covered with thick layers of carpet. As all "good" things comes in three, let's hope this is the end of this then. The only thing i have to reattach are the park and marker lights, but as it actually not allowed to run them here in the Netherlands (because good visibility shouldn't be of course) I'm going to put them on a separate switch and run them from the coach battery.
Today I did something different because i have to wait for a soldering station coming in. I'm going to erase all horrors the former owner did to the poor thing and make it healthy again.
For that I need to erase all cable wire clips. cut the wire and erase corrosion. then solder the wires back together again and seal them with heatshrink.
The connectors are all corroded so I'm going to replace all of them with watertight ones.
So most of the things are solved or will be solved.
At the moment it's connected to the Oil level sensor and chances are that this is just more idiocy from the former owner because on the wiring diagram it's not at all connected to the oil level sensor, but to the electronic ignition control unit, the ballast resistor and than to the trip computer and a vacuum solenoid, which would make total sense instead of being connected to a oil level sensor.
Because it's now connected to the oillevel sensor is probably the reason of the problems with my oil pressure gauge, the state of the sealant of the Speed emission switch and the fact the oil level sensor is blown.
By reading an old post https://www.classicwinnebagos.com/forum/index.php?topic=6104.0 (https://www.classicwinnebagos.com/forum/index.php?topic=6104.0) I think i found the problem of my ignition coil running hot when the ignition is on but the engine is not running.
The former owner sliced the wire connecting the ignitioncoil to the ballast resistor and soldered it directly to the wire that was going into the ballast resistor.
Via mentioned link I found an explanation about this connection.
When the ignition coil is connected the right way to the ballast resistor it receives 8 volt when the key is in the ignition position. It receives 12 volt as the key is turned in the starter position so the ignition coil delivers a bigger spark.
Now there will undoubtedly be a reason the former owner thought he had to connect the ignition coil to 12 volts permanently. My worries however are that a continuous 12 volt on the whole ignition field only wears it down faster or runs it hot at high RPM's.
There is allready electronic ignition in the distributor. Could this be the reason why the former owner changed the connection?
It's not always easy to determine why a PO made a wiring hack, except for one thing that is always common: to bypass, rather than fix, a problem. Usually, it's done because they couldn't figure out what the actual cause was. So... hack away. Running too much voltage or amperage through components which require less... yes, it may cause an immediate problem, or it may take a short time to occur.
I'm unfamiar with EI unit in the distributor being coupled with an OEM module. That, in itself, raises some suspicion.
Unfortunately, I'm far from a wiring guru, so I can't provide any solid answer as to the correct configuration or how to determine what the true cause (and remedy) is.
you are 100% correct in the Bypassing, Oz.
I have suspicions there was once a temperature and fluid level indicator panel in the RV, which was erased because all the sensors, wiring and the connector are there. Erasing the panel would also explain why the motorwiring was a complete mess. He just cut all kind of wires which was not necessary, adding ground wires which were not necessary either,
I'm working at my motorhome at a Hobby garage and another hobbyist said. "it's always the same with Germans" They think they know everything better and get their hands on everything and end up making a totall mess of things. It seems in this case he is absolutely right.
But I fixed it all today together with the headlight wiring which still needed some soldering and isolating.
As for the EI, I remember an episode of wheeler dealers where they changed the old system with points with an EI and they allready said you would get a much bigger spark, so better starting. The former owner did change the ignition control module however, but it looks pretty much the same then the standard units.
So if there's anyone knowing more about this, I'm open to suggestions.
Hereby the photo's of my work today.
Headlight wiring driver side:
(https://www.classicwinnebagos.com/forum/gallery/16109_12_07_23_9_23_37.jpeg)
Headlight wiring passenger side
(https://www.classicwinnebagos.com/forum/gallery/16109_12_07_23_9_26_52.jpeg)
The connectors from Hell:
(https://www.classicwinnebagos.com/forum/gallery/16109_12_07_23_9_27_39.jpeg)
(https://www.classicwinnebagos.com/forum/gallery/16109_12_07_23_9_39_27.jpeg)
Progress! :) :)ThmbUp
So far so good. My headlight are working again without first wiggling the wires :D
I'm still not out of the woods yet. Checking the turn signal lights I noticed when I use the right side my amp-meter responds but when switch to the left nothing happens. ??? i??
Time to change the opening icon it perfectly shows what I think of the former owner :D
Lol! Lots of choice words have been hurled in the air toward previous owners after the fact. Progress. Bless your patience and ability to hang in there.
Well, so far so good. I don't need a battery booster anymore to push thru the resistance and get the starter going after a few days and when I pull my headlight switch, all light go on. It's marvelous how these little things can make you happy. ;)
Let's just hope the wiring can hold it for a while until inflation is over again because ordering new wiring and sending it cost a small fortune nowadays.
:) :)ThmbUp
This week I was checking my brake fluid. Reaching behind the master cylinder I suddenly created a short circuit, to find more of the former idiots work. as the picture probably shows as it is taken up close, it's not an easy spot to reach.
(https://www.classicwinnebagos.com/forum/gallery/16109_09_07_23_10_23_55.jpeg)
What you see are the connections wires of the Ignition Control Unit. Kinda important I guess and not something you just connect with Plastic insulate brass connectors so the connections are exposed to the elements.
So I pulled the wiring harness free from the holders, stripped the wires to clean copper reconnected everything again with watertight connectors, put extra insulation tape over it preventing another unnecessary stop when on a trip (i hope)
After that I thoroughly checked if there aren't anymore of these kind of suprises but it seems I'm finally clear, but i'm not holding my breath on it.
(https://www.classicwinnebagos.com/forum/gallery/16109_12_07_23_9_52_29.jpeg)
(https://www.classicwinnebagos.com/forum/gallery/16109_12_07_23_9_53_24.jpeg)
I like your use of the strikeout, lol! :D
Duct tape??!!! I suppose the idea was it would be heat reflective?
Who knows what electrical debauchery forms in the minds of some people.
Good job, mate!
Need diagrams? Do you have the manual? If not, get it here:
www.classicwinnebagos.com/forum/index.php?action=store;sa=view;id=209
It's kinda the most important tool in your inventory.
;)
Quote from: Oz on November 26, 2021, 06:31 AM
Need diagrams? Do you have the manual? If not, get it here:
www.classicwinnebagos.com/forum/index.php?action=store;sa=view;id=209
It's kinda the most important tool in your inventory.
;)
That manual is for a Class A MH chassis. He has a Class C (van) chassis.
On EBAY (https://www.ebay.com/sch/183721/i.html?_from=R40&_nkw=1979+Dodge+CB300+manual), get either a CD or paper version of the 1979 Dodge Van Shop Manual Sportsman Tradesman Plymouth Voyager Repair Service Manual (https://www.ebay.com/itm/133601366178?hash=item1f1b4310a2:g:-DEAAOSwnstf0HZ~)
Yeah well, it's just for strengthening purposes and keeping the wiring together. I've been a roadie in the 80's. You wouldn't believe where we used ducttape for. We only just didn't use it to hang speakers :D ??? But you can always be just a little crazier: :)clap :)clap :)clap
I don't know how it's in the good old USA at the moment but here in the Netherlands things like vulcanisation tape or insulation tape are downright scarce so prices are not up but UP !-! Shopping just isn't fun anymore next to the fact that the things that you can buy are mostly garbage. The 40 year old insulation tape on Betsy keeps up much better than what I just bought for a top price.
And of course I will rewire the whole chassis anyway when prices get normal again.
As for the manuals I have:
https://www.classicwinnebagos.com/forum/index.php?action=store;sa=view;id=193
https://www.classicwinnebagos.com/forum/index.php?action=store;sa=view;id=166
and
https://www.winnebago.com/Files/Files/Winnebago/Service/wincd/1980/80wd424rh-l0.pdf
This pretty much covers the whole package?
And thanks Dave.
Marc.
Pretty much, but you have a class C, built basically on a heavy duty van chassis. The chassis wiring and more may be different. I'm not very familiar with class C chassis, but I'm pretty sure there's notable differences from the class As.
Yep, You have a point there.
The wiring diagram of the M500 looks much more representable to the actual wiring in my RV. For example, It has the double headlights like I have.
I have watched dozens of Car shows from Chasing classic cars to Fast 'n loud.
All the shows have one thing in common. Mechanics really hate Wiring.
Next to the damage done by the former idiot it shows in my Betsy. Just throw it in there and make sure it works :D
Today one of god true miracles happened in the Netherlands. He made the sun shine. ??? ??? ???
It was such a strange phenomenon that I used the whole morning enjoying it. That god doesn't like to overdue he proved by giving also a strong very icy wind. But sun+wind+coat made it very pleasurable indeed.
So as the day was cut in half, I decided to fix some leftovers issues I needed to address, With the sun in my back and the icy wind to make sure you are not feeling too hot and getting lazy it was a perfect day to dive under the hood and address all the issues mentioned in this topic
I first removed the bypass to the ignition coil and reconnected the ignition coil to the balastresistor again after checking if everything was functioning like it should using my trusty multimeter and using the superb explanation of the Chrysler ignition system by Dave.
https://www.classicwinnebagos.com/forum/index.php?topic=3424.0 (https://www.classicwinnebagos.com/forum/index.php?topic=3424.0)
The lesson to be learned here is, don't go tinkering if you don't know what you are doing like the former idiot did, because my ignition coil is not running hot anymore idling the engine and the engine actually seem to respond better.
I'm glad I fixed it because who knows what would have happened if I didn't repair it. I've read comments here about rotors and complete distributor caps being eaten away.
(https://www.classicwinnebagos.com/forum/gallery/8/16109-020322180524.jpeg)
Next to this I made better ground connections fixing resistance issues in the wiring. For this I used electrical busbars, and you could almost here Betsy go like Meg Ryan in "when Harry met Sally" :D all the lights burn bright and happy again.
(https://www.classicwinnebagos.com/forum/gallery/16109_09_07_23_10_32_01.jpeg)
(https://www.classicwinnebagos.com/forum/gallery/16109_09_07_23_10_35_44.jpeg)
The alternator: I had it rebuild by a company and is working perfect again.
(https://www.classicwinnebagos.com/forum/gallery/16109_11_07_23_2_34_32.jpeg)
The oil pressure gauge: It is working again to by using my brain.
Rock auto finally had the oil level sensor available again so after installing it I connected the oil pressure gauge to the minus of the sensor, finding it maxing out with the engine not running and going dead when the engine does run, proving the oil level sensor works, but should be connected to a warning light and not an oil pressure gauge. D:oH!
I've fallen for the madness of the former king of false connections again because the colors of the wires matched but were not connected the right way. After the behavior of the gauge I suddenly understood however.
An oil pressure gauge works with resistance on mass so should be connected to the oil pressure sensor, not the oil level sensor. The higher the oil pressure the less ground resistance so the meter will go up. This is exaclty the reason why an oil pressure gauge maxes out when you connect the wire directly to ground, no ground resistance. I connected it directly to my oil pressure sensor and the meter works perfectly now.
(https://www.classicwinnebagos.com/forum/gallery/16109_12_07_23_3_21_32.jpeg)
The dimmer switch: I've installed a new switch but made an attachment. As I had a heavy duty relay left over from the old charging system of the coach battery I decided to use it for the headlights so the high amp current is not running thru the dimmer switch anymore.
(https://www.classicwinnebagos.com/forum/gallery/16109_12_07_23_3_14_54.jpeg)
This way I hope to prevent very hot feet when driving like the former idiot although I highly doubt he ever noticed because of the 6 layers of carpet that was there N:(
The speed emission switch: ERASED! I want my engine go VROOAAMM. And as it is 40 years old its freed from emission duty :)
And I installed the kill switch better so now I can use it from the inside of the vehicle, hidden away so future thieves are given hell when they want to steal my Betsy.
So as far as I know the issues with the chassis wiring are now all fixed and everything seems to be running again as it should. In the future I shall install some extra warning lights (for the oil level sensor for example) but as this is not important for the functionality of the vehicle this can wait.
Photos of all the work will follow.
Awesome, man! Thanks so much for the very detailed, running updates! :)clap
Should I mark this topic, "solved"?
Let's just wait till i added the photo's i still need to make and then add to clarify everything. This is not possible anymore when the subject is on solved?
if i can help one person to have it easier then i did it will all be worth the effort.
Today i'm having a lazy day making my cats very happy and curling up to me :D
Tomorrow I visit Betsy again, will make the photo's and place them.
Anything can be added when a topic is marked solved. :)ThmbUp
OK then..... SOLVED :D :)ThmbUp
Well, problem not solved. :'( :'( :'(. I really must admit that it's starts to get to me.
(https://www.classicwinnebagos.com/forum/gallery/16109_11_07_23_3_19_43.jpeg)(https://www.classicwinnebagos.com/forum/gallery/16109_11_07_23_3_23_25.jpeg)(https://www.classicwinnebagos.com/forum/gallery/16109_11_07_23_3_23_57.jpeg)
I would so much like to rip the complete wiring out and start new, but with todays prices it really is lunacy to do that. Half a year ago, I allready said prices were not up but UP !-!. But now I'm saying to myself, boy, do you have been stupid not to bite the bullet back then. It really isn't fun anymore. :( :( :(
So I started working on it, but soon enough lost track because of corroded wires rusted solid in Car Wire Cable Clips and plastic insulate brass connectors. There just was no other choice then to cut things loose.
(https://www.classicwinnebagos.com/forum/gallery/16109_11_07_23_3_25_04.jpeg)
As the previous $@!#@! doesn't understand why you need to colorcode I lost track in a matter of minutes just because the total mess that was created and. Notice in above pictures how there is an isolation box placed, but actually no use because of the way it is sliced open to put the wires in. This is the way EVERYTHING in this RV is "repaired" so I came to terms allready I will need another year to get my Betsy on the road again and freezing my behind off coming winter with the upcoming LG prices.
Well, the people who read all my adventures so far (running in the thousands if I am to believe the counters) probably will get that I am somebody who speaks his mind. I think honesty is always best even when the message is not nice. If I offend anybody with this, I do apologize but that's the way that I am, but as I can safe only one person the heartache I've been thru with my Betsy, still not seeing the end of it, it's worth it to me saving only one person from the same heartache so please understand that I mean below message from a positive stand of view and not negative.
I wanted to dig into the problem mentioned yesterday, but then my buddy at the hobbygarage who I helped with his wiring came back with the message that his back lights were not functioning properly again. After a full day of work and let him leave the garage with everything working perfectly, and testing multiple time afterwards, the ground problem is back full blow i?? i?? i??
so with his RV there are also problems that shouldn't be there because a wiring magician put his paws on the electricity as well.
When you really don't know what you're doing and don't want to learn, PLEASE STAY OFF!!! Fix the problem right or Stay OFF!!! Ask help from a friend who knows what he is doing or be prepared to pay for it. It can save you a lot of trouble and money too when you are in the middle of nowhere with an RV that isn't working anymore because of your handywork, being lowballed when you try to sell your RV and being honest about it or get problems with the buyer afterward, because I'm seriously considering pressing legal charges to the seller if he doesn't come up with a counterproposal soon after a letter with all the problems found. Even fixer-uppers shouldn't have major mechanical problems like an engine that has thrown a rod or completely f***** up electrical wiring because you are a wiring magician.
Just my two cents. I can only hope it is appreciated.
Now what the previous $@!#@! has done is adding a bicycle carrier and a towbar. Nothing wrong with that, but again if you do this DO_IT_RIGHT and not by snipping wires in half and NEVER EVER use Car Wire Cable Clips ruining your wire isolation or plastic electrical connectors in an environment you know is going to be absolutely soaked with water driving in the rain because the result is going to be this:
(https://www.classicwinnebagos.com/forum/gallery/16109_11_07_23_3_23_25.jpeg)
Now IPhone's are unfortunately unbelievably bad in making closed up photo's so sorry for the bad quality. On the next foto the end of the cut off wire in the left upper corner should be shiny copper and not black, and I needed to cut of 15 pieces of wire of about 2 inches before I finally saw clean copper. That's 30 inches of wire eaten away by corrosion just because somebody was to lazy to do the job right and using non water resistant connectors in a wet environment.
(https://www.classicwinnebagos.com/forum/gallery/16109_11_07_23_3_25_04.jpeg)
(https://www.classicwinnebagos.com/forum/gallery/16109_11_07_23_3_25_33.jpeg)
Now the best way to fix this off course is pulling a new wire, the next best thing is solder a new piece of wire to the old wire and isolate it with heath shrink tubing.
(https://www.classicwinnebagos.com/forum/gallery/16109_11_07_23_3_26_04.jpeg)
(https://www.classicwinnebagos.com/forum/gallery/16109_11_07_23_3_26_32.jpeg)
I put the wires back in the reinforcement hoses and connected it to a water tight wiring box so now I can use plastic electrical connectors to make a three way splitters. so I can change out the wiring easily which I will need to be doing in the future without any doubts. Pictures and explanations of this will follow tomorrow when i finish the job.
And the next problem.
As I like my wipers to be wiping as less as possible somebody build a wiper interval for me as the Hella one that was build in failed. I looked for the same one at first but i'm not paying $200,= for a new interval switch just because it states "Hella"
I got a real nice one with fuses on the controlpart and on the 10A relay switching the wipers. Even the €200,= Hella intervalswitch wasn't that luxurious. :)
On the internet I found a wiring diagram for the wipermotor which exactly match the colorcoding.
Wiring Wipers.jpg
Measuring with my multimeter states the following
PPL (purple) directly connected in the wiperswitch to 12V+ supplying a constant 12 volt to the wipermotor.
BRN/YEL (Brown Yellow) Low speed.
GRY (Grey) High speed.
BLU (Blue) ??? (park wiper???)
Tan Washer motor
However as soon as I connect the relay to the low speed cable (brn/YEL) and the interval switches on to power the wipers the 10A fuse blows. The Hella interval was connected to this cable.
Investigating the problem I found the wipers to be connected to 3 fuses in the fusebox, or so my multimeter tells me... As far as I understand electrics, this means 60 AMPS on a 14 gauge wire, and the puzzle to find out where the problem is. I had it happening once, Let's not make that twice...
Why you want to protect your wiring with fuses.jpg
Shouldn't matter if the topic is solved status.
Yes, Mark I've understood that from you the last time. :grin:
I've been puzzling for four hours today, Good news is that the Wiring magician didn't seem to have touched the fusebox and everything still looked original. I found a great wiring diagram on the internet which has the correct colorcodes for my wiring and the basic instruments and it showed directly why it seemed that the wipers were connected to three different fuses. It was my bad because the fusebox has 3 feeds. 1 constant, 1 via the ignition switch and 1 via the lightswitch for the dashboardlight. Everything connected to the ignitionswitch gets fed by the lightblue wire so then it's logical your multimeter finds a connection on everything connected to that wire. I should have disconnected the fuses and then measure the link AFTER the fuse :rolleyes: :rolleyes: :rolleyes:
Chasis instruments..jpg
Source: 1979 Dodge Truck Wiring Diagram Database - Wiring Diagram Sample (https://i.pinimg.com/originals/6e/a9/06/6ea9068203e28b12c47a44b8b57b09e1.jpg)
There is only one thing really boggling me, The wipers are not connected to any fuse but the fusible link, Can anybody tell me why this is because I guess there should be logic to this and I'm starting to guess it's also the reason why the fuse of the interval keeps blowing or why the Hella interval gave up.
Then another question. Is this the fusible link?
Fusible Link.jpg
Then the question is, are these kind of fusible links still for sale or is this system in the USA also upgraded. I am not familiair with these kind of fusible links and didn't even know they existed, i removed it because the wire was heavily corroded and caused heavy voltage drop. As I thought everything was on fuses and didn't understand how this worked i didn't mind, but now I do and as the wipers are not protected in any way now, I'm getting worried. I do have a cutt-off switch I always turn off so all power is off when I leave Betsy, but of course it needs to be safe when the power is on also.
Also, the index of the Fusebox in the wiring diagram is completely off. IS there anybody who has a Class C with a Fusebox diagram that at least is the same as the items I found and indexed.
Fusebox.jpg
And as last: Is there any logic in reading out the Amp gauge, because I can't make anything of this. I know the alternator is delivering 60 amp max. and I remember from way back in our old RV or now in Betsy the gauge max out between the 3rd and 4th stripe which makes about 20 amps per stripe
The discharge side seems to be much more sensitive and every stripe shoud read 4 amps?
AMP Gauge.jpg
Thanks in advance...
First off, buy a service manual for your VAN chassis: 1979 Dodge Van Service Manual (https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p3519243.m570.l1313&_nkw=1979+Dodge+Van+Service+Manual&_sacat=0)
It will save you a tremendous amount of headaches.
2nd, Service manual says there is a circuit breaker in the control switch, ergo no fuse.
(https://www.classicwinnebagos.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fdave78chieftain.com%2F79_Dodge_Van%2F79_Dodge_Van_Two_Speed_Wiper_Motor_Schematic.jpg&hash=5f2415fec7227512cc15cfebbd0955963ca7136c)
(https://www.classicwinnebagos.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fdave78chieftain.com%2F79_Dodge_Van%2F79_Dodge_Van_Intermittant_Wiper_Schematic.jpg&hash=8927b9fa940c81b6dc2f04c468c6fa1b8e31ad85)
1979 Dodge Van Wiring Diagram from Dodge Service Manual
(https://www.classicwinnebagos.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fdave78chieftain.com%2F79_Dodge_Van%2F1979_Dodge_Van-Gas-Wiring_Diagram-01.jpg&hash=edc3fc50dc3f1965791f9aee3d22e62c45d9eecf)
(https://www.classicwinnebagos.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fdave78chieftain.com%2F79_Dodge_Van%2F1979_Dodge_Van-Gas-Wiring_Diagram-02.jpg&hash=249a4653c8c4ff6716886b746cbed1ea09443937)
(https://www.classicwinnebagos.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fdave78chieftain.com%2F79_Dodge_Van%2F1979_Dodge_Van-Gas-Wiring_Diagram-03.jpg&hash=7d163f2a3e1fee674925a3e12698a1221260f712)
(https://www.classicwinnebagos.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fdave78chieftain.com%2F79_Dodge_Van%2F1979_Dodge_Van-Gas-Wiring_Diagram-04.jpg&hash=258c7b1e6d5a9a496e49b61921c1875d6ab39271)
(https://www.classicwinnebagos.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fdave78chieftain.com%2F79_Dodge_Van%2F1979_Dodge_Van-Gas-Wiring_Diagram-05.jpg&hash=b5d4d0a6771379bda1c61aaca974d65cb2c9ad5e)
(https://www.classicwinnebagos.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fdave78chieftain.com%2F79_Dodge_Van%2F1979_Dodge_Van-Gas-Wiring_Diagram-06.jpg&hash=7283bf783118b9161316f011521c9023c05def08)
As I said, buy the manual and stop driving yourself crazy as the book will answer almost ever question you have been asking. No I will not keep generating this stuff as the book is about 500 pages long. Took me a couple of hours just to do this.
Wow, Again thank you so much, Dave.
Well, your work hasn't been for nothing and it finally sank in to me. Sorry for being such a mule.
Order 11-10147-48508.jpg
I'm still learning that things are done differently in the USA expecially in the automotive industry, but i hope you can also see my hesitancy.
The book was $ 10,00, and I also will have to pay 25% inportfees afterwards but in this case well worth saving the headaches
Quote from: Mlw on June 07, 2023, 12:00 PMWow, Again thank you so much, Dave.
Well, your work hasn't been for nothing and it finally sank in to me. Sorry for being such a mule.
Order 11-10147-48508.jpg
I'm still learning that things are done differently in the USA expecially in the automotive industry, but i hope you can also see my hesitancy.
The book was $ 10,00, and I also will have to pay 25% inportfees afterwards but in this case well worth saving the headaches
I must as if you have Norwegian genes...you should be able to download that manual and print it out..that avoids fees
Sorry if I sounded irritated. The Dodge van was immensely more popular than the Motorhome chassis so a lot more support was provided by Dodge which results in a lot information that is not required in the Motorhome manual. The motorhome manual doesn't include wiper motor info because it was not provided by Dodge.
Assuming your using a Desktop or Laptop computer, place your cursor on the picture right click and either select download or copy image address and open in a new tab in order to enlarge the picture.
Please note that Dodge changed to a shunt style Ammeter around 1974 in all their vehicles. If you look at lower half of page 2 of 6 you will see wires A1-20RE and B1-20BK. They both attach to wire R6-10BK. That short piece of wire between each wire junction is used as the shunt for the ammeter. An ammeter is actually a voltmeter that measures the voltage drop across a shunt. They just scale the meter in amps vs volts. This method prevents the full amperage of the alternator from being applied to the Ammeter.
Note here is how to decode the wire info:
Wire A1-20RE: Circuit #A1, 20 gauge wire size, Red
Wire B1-20BK: Circuit #B1, 20 gauge wire size, Black
Wire R6-10BK: Circuit #R6, 10 gauge wire size, Black
Fusible links you were asking about are shown on Page 2 of 6, right side and at starter relay. As a general rule, a fusible link is made of wire that is four gauges higher (smaller) than the rest of the circuit, making it the weakest link in your electrical chain. For example, a fusible link in a 10-gauge wire would be 14-gauge. Fusible link wire size is shown on the drawings, eg J1-18GR (Circuit J1, 18 gauge, Gray). That one is protecting circuit J1B-12PK/BK (Circuit J1B, 12 gauge, Pink wit a black stripe) Like fuses, Fusible Links are typically sold as generic items at a auto parts store.
@ eyes open: Well it doesn't matter anymore. I bought it now. :grin: I must say, it's handier to have the book then a printout in a map. It could very well be I have Norwegian genes, but as fas as I know I haven't. However the dutch and Norwegians are known to dig each other very well. and were not far off from each other. Sorry for the dutch in the map, but that's how google works nowadays.
Netherlands - Noorway.jpg
@ Dave.
You didn't sound irritated to me but I do recall you telling me 4 times allready to get the manual :D
I'm very gratefull for your comments because you are always right on the money and i'm learning a lot from you by your answers to me but also to others.
I'm also not an electrician but understanding most of it. In the pas I build complete lightshows for discotheques (and let an electrician check it afterwards), renewed a lot of wiring working for the yachtbroker But as soon we get in the area of diodes, resistors and that kind of thing my knowledge is at end and I'll be needing help from electricians. I'm also really bad at mathemetics which is a huge handicap with electrical formulas. I just don't get it so your detailed answers are a tremendous help.
God, when am I going to learn to listen to my better judgement.
I never trusted Ebay and never ever ordered something at this company and for very good reasons as will be shown!
We are now almost 2 months further and of course I never received the manual, but as ebay gives you also a "Money back guarentee" I turned of all the alarmbells ringing and didn't cancel.
"We send you updates" (see above) - Never received them. Delivery 14th of juli (see above)
So at the 14th I checked the tracker. No updates, of course.
So I tought just wait a little longer, and I forgot about it till today.... Now my tracking info was updated.
Ebay order 11-10147048508 (T&T).jpg
I don't know where they deliverd it, but certainly NOT at my house!!!
So I tried to enter my account to start hours of emailing, contacting etc to track the manual or get my money back:
Ebay account inlog.jpg
So called, but after an hour of "all employees are busy, please be patient" I had enough and hang up!
So I will be cutting my losses again and there is Ebay for ya as I actually knew all along!
Let's be clear, the only one stupid enough to order from Ebay was me, but please people take a lesson out of this and let's all stop using these SH*T companies and please stop sending links to them.
They are laughing there asses of at us, and they will keep doing it as long as we are stupid enough to trust their "services"
Sorry to hear you had bad luck. I have used EBAY many times and never had a problem. Though if something is not shipped within 3-4 days (e.g. weekend delays) then there is a problem with that seller.
An alternative is Bishko Automotive Books (https://www.bishauto.com/literature/1979-dodge-sportsman-plymouth-voyager-body-chassis-electrical-service-manual). They carry the manual in Print, CD, or Instant access forms. I suggest you try the contact link at the bottom of that page and call them directly about overseas mailing (DHL is not the best shipping company). All you really need is the CD version (pdf files). I normally only keep digital versions because they are easy to store and replicate across laptop, phone, and/or tablet. It is the big 11"x17" electrical drawings that can get cumbersome.
Quote from: Mlw on August 02, 2023, 02:19 PMLet's be clear, the only one stupid enough to order from Ebay was me, but please people take a lesson out of this and let's all stop using these SH*T companies and please stop sending links to them.
They are laughing there asses of at us, and they will keep doing it as long as we are stupid enough to trust their "services"
Marc,
I have something I am willing to do for you and I want to do this for the whole community of Winnebago owners..
Using the link to eBay provided above by Dave, I just bought this manual..You can tell it has been used well and it is the perfect item to slowly scan each page to a PDF file..
I have 2 of those type of printers that have a scan bed on the top of it and software that scans it to pdf file..It will make a multipage file and I can start to scan the areas that you need the most..Wiring..
With a limit of a MB for file size, it may take a few uploads to do..
This would be a great addition to the library available for everybody..
Here is the link to the book I just bought..
https://www.ebay.com/itm/185981957663
I will rip the book apart page by page to get a full scan from it..And I will start with the electrical section as soon as I get it..
Hi Dave,
Let's be clear, I'm totally not blaming you and are very gratefull for all your help, so thank you again for the links. You can be right that there is a problem with the seller, but international shipping and traveling is a total mess since 2021 and even deliveries from Rock auto have taken over a month to get to the Netherlands in the past.
Was it Fraud? Highly possible! But as Ebay is offering the service they are responsible or at least so it should work in an normal world. Of course it can go wrong, and that its not the problem, but then at least you offer service. You just don't keep your customers waiting on the phone for over an hour telling you to "just be patient" and not pick up the phone while it's the only option you can use to clear your account. What the hell is that? With every other company they send you an email or text with a link so you can clear your account within seconds.
We have a site here in the Netherlands called marketplace (marktplaats) It was a great website for these kind of things. everything arranged directly with the seller thru email or phone and it never went wrong untill ebay bought it up. Since then you have to pay for everything and the service is ... In Germany you have Ebay Kleinanzeigen, and they woke up, kicked ebay out and it's now just Kleinanzeigen. Let's just hope that more will follow.
And Mike, thank you so much for your offer. it truly warms my heart and stll gives me hope for the future of this very sick world we live in and lets keep it at that.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/133886564492?_trkparms=amclksrc%3DITM%26aid%3D777008%26algo%3DPERSONAL.TOPIC%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20221115143056%26meid%3Df9633f40e37e437fb6d2dcc1c95448b1%26pid%3D101612%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D1%26itm%3D133886564492%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D1%26pg%3D4375194%26algv%3DRecentlyViewedItemsV2&_trksid=p4375194.c101612.m4236&_trkparms=parentrq%3Ac1232e7c1890adb9298d1bbdffffabd0%7Cpageci%3A81db5bd3-32da-11ee-b8b2-8aca997d8339%7Ciid%3A1%7Cvlpname%3Avlp_homepage
I was checking the tracking of the shipment of the book I bought..It is being shipped by "Media Mail" which is the slowest of all of USPS's shipping methods..
But here in the states, you get from Ebay a email stating "Your purchase has been shipped"..
I then set up a email alert with the shipper to give me updates of the shipping progress..
Then when it is actually delivered, I will get another message from Ebay stating "Your purchase has been delivered"
and a verification from the actual shipper..USPS UPS Fed Ex Ground..
As I was looking at my shipment on Ebay, I saw this book from Chrysler that might be something to get to scan..What do you think? Link above..
Hey Mike,
Thanks for the link.
Ebay always has been very VERY controversial here in Europe. It's not called Evil Bay by many for nothing next to the examples given in my last post.
QuoteWe have a site here in the Netherlands called marketplace (marktplaats) It was a great website for these kind of things. everything arranged directly with the seller thru email or phone and it never went wrong untill ebay bought it up. Since then you have to pay for everything and the service is ... In Germany you have Ebay Kleinanzeigen, and they woke up, kicked ebay out and it's now just Kleinanzeigen. Let's just hope that more will follow.
And I'm not the only one with these experiences
https://www.trustpilot.com/review/ebay.com
Knowing this I did try and got bitten by Cujo (Stephen King) in the backside BIG TIME. But even here in the Netherlands I rather drive 200 miles and get the manual in person then let it be sent by postal services because of the fact that work and company ethics are pretty much non existant anymore. next to this i accepted for long that I'm exactly like Donald Duck instead of Gladstone.
So I'm really sorry mate but Hell needs to freeze over -200 degrees now before I ever going to use Ebay again and I would highly emphasize to do the same. These fraudulent companies will be there as long as we keep using their "services".
I looked at the link you given me Dave, and I will give them a call. You need to have an American address to order from them directly. I'm also not thrilled about the fact you have to save your CC details with CVC number to your account when you want to order something from them. Now as I don't want this (https://www.classicwinnebagos.com/forum/index.php?msg=100067) to happen again...
But despite all the bad luck I'm really grateful of all the help I'm getting, keep truly loving you guys and the old US of A😍😁😍😁😍 Rotten apples are found everywhere and we just have to dispose of them 😉
Quote from: RockwoodMike on August 04, 2023, 11:28 AMAs I was looking at my shipment on Ebay, I saw this book from Chrysler that might be something to get to scan..What do you think? Link above.
Wait!! This is another copy of the same book I just bought and waiting for..But the one I bought is in much better shape..I get a little confused sometimes!!
I have a good friend that lives in England. And I would send him things that he couldn't get in England..Use to take a week from California to get there..
Now you don't even try..3 weeks easily and it will get lost most of the time..The European postal service is a wreck..
QuoteThe European postal service is a wreck..
All I can say to this: "Aint that the truth"
I'm not exactly thrilled about USPS either. an package from https://quadrajetparts.com/ accelerator pump needle and vacuumcaps, took
5 months in 2022, and I had long since gave up on the package as USPS is not giving tracking updates despite the fact I had USPS 0 lbs, 6.24 oz First-Class Package International Service, and also had no possibility to contact whatsoever so mabe I need to wait 4 more months of this to arrive too? ;)
Rock auto and Summit Racing orders came with FedEx, and for me all six orders went flawlessly arriving even before the expected deliverydate,
When I use to send stuff to my friend in England by USPS,you could track it right up to the point where the big Boeing jet lands at Heathrow..That usually took 3 days to get to Heathrow..Then after that it would disappear..for weeks..
Friend would say "nothin yet"..for weeks..
I just don't send him anything anymore..
The reason i'm telling all this is to educate people in advance what you are getting yourself in to restoring a vintage (US) RV.
Let's face it, it's not exactly a walk in the park, but particularly not for us Europeans because parts are scarce to nonexistent, so we need to order them across the pond. I knew that because of my time working at the yacht broker selling vintage sailing yachts, but the effort it takes to get parts to Europe since Corona is completely rediculous.
US Rv's from the seventies/early eighties were far more luxurious and had far more room than European ones so that's why I went for Betsy next to the fact that a little HP's also don't hurt when you want to move a brick of 6000 LBS around.
European RV's catched up quick however and were far more economical because of the fact that even back then gas prices were already 12 times higher in Europe then in the USA and we settled for 4-cylinder engines instead of 8, but I think it is unnecessary to say that it was nearly impossible to get a speeding ticket outside city limits and climbing mountains was done in lowest gears and engines pushed to the rev limiter screaming all the way up.
Now getting regular carparts via companies like Rock Auto and Summit is not too difficult but getting specific parts (like the manual for example) are a living nightmare because most companies don't ship internationally so you have to put your trust in fraudulant companies like Ebay or US forwarding companies and hope for the best. I tried both of them and got bitten in the backside so i'm not going to follow that route anymore.
https://tools.usps.com/go/TrackConfirmAction_input?strOrigTrackNum=9449008205498011805092
Just to let you know that the manual is on it's way..at least that part will be here soon!!
My friend in England has this little tin can for a car that has a 3 cylinder engine that gets about 50 miles to the gallon..But a gallon (it is by the liter) comes to about 10 dollars..we can never really figure the true cost because there is exchange rate with the dollar/pound..But that is close to the price..
So with your cast iron gas guzzling Detroit iron engine must be terrible to fill up the tank!
Yes, that will hurt, but because it's a vintage classic vehicle no taxes, that softens the sting a lot.
And I'm not planning to travel with it tens of thousands of miles. It never had because there's just 58000 miles on the clock and looking at the pedals this probably is accurate, also the engine ran way to good to survive the previous idiots abuse for 158000 miles.
Gas prices in the netherlands for premium Gas (98) indeed $10,00 per gallon at the moment
The book has arrived!!
And the electrical section is 190 pages !! I said I would do this so we need to get started..
Below is 2 scans of the same page (1) one is at 200 dpi and the other is 100..
But the quality of the 200 is much better..maybe do 5 pages at a time..
Which do you prefer??
Mike
You will discover any page that has a black & White photograph vs a drawing will be grainy at lower resolution so I would use the higher DPI at least for those.
Just trying to see how all this works..Only 4 files can be done in each post..Each file is limited to 1 MB..And total of all files can't be more that 4MB..
So here is 4 pages at 300 dpi
So with these 6 pages. it shows the basic wire diagram..
What does every body think of the quality of the scan??
Quite a bit of stand up work going on here by all parties.... and now a bit of a prayer for Mlw..
Yea, though I walk through the valley of the shadow of death, I will fear no evil: for thou art with me; thy rod and thy staff they comfort me.
Quote from: Eyez Open on August 07, 2023, 05:33 PMand now a bit of a prayer for Mlw..
Yea, though I walk through the valley of the shadow of death, I will fear no evil: for thou art with me; thy rod and thy staff they comfort me
Did I miss something?? Did he get in a car wreck or is sick?
Quote from: RockwoodMike on August 07, 2023, 06:43 PMQuote from: Eyez Open on August 07, 2023, 05:33 PMand now a bit of a prayer for Mlw..
Yea, though I walk through the valley of the shadow of death, I will fear no evil: for thou art with me; thy rod and thy staff they comfort me
Nope not at all,he's rebuildinga old rv...literally. Actually decompiling and then rebuilding.. :shocked:
Did I miss something?? Did he get in a car wreck or is sick?
Pages 1-4
Pages 5-8
Page 7 didn't upload here it is
Pages 9-12
Page 13-16
missed page 14
Pages 17-20
Quote from: DaveVA78Chieftain on August 07, 2023, 03:51 PMYou will discover any page that has a black & White photograph vs a drawing will be grainy at lower resolution so I would use the higher DPI at least for those.
When there is a photo on the page, the file size goes way above 1 MB..So I have to reduce DPI to get it under 1MB
It is either 100dpi with a photo or 200 without a photo..
WOw, Just WOW mike.
Thank you so much from the bottom of my heart. It will be well used.
and No... Didn't get in a Car wreck and didn't get sick. Maybe of the RV sometimes but don't we all sometimes??? 😉😁😉
And the quality of the scans is excellent. Again, thank you so much
Quote from: Mlw on August 08, 2023, 03:08 AMThank you so much from the bottom of my heart. It will be well used.
You are more than Welcome!!
I will be uploading this in 20 page groups with each page properly labeled.
I have a system now to scan each page quickly..So be looking for it..
I will do my best to do 20 pages at a time per day..
This is a very complete book..Many other sections to see too.
I think you may need to talk Mark (Oz) before you take this any farther so he can decide how he wants to store this. Could be a possible site storage issue.
Quote from: DaveVA78Chieftain on August 08, 2023, 05:14 PMI think you may need to talk Mark (Oz) before you take this any farther so he can decide how he wants to store this. Could be a possible site storage issue.
I just scanned pages 21-40 and was about to upload them..I will hold off till I get further instructions..
Not sure how to contact him directly..
I just sent Mark a PM with you on copy asking him about this. Use the "My Messages" link at the very top of the page to Read/Send PMs. He does not get off work until later so might be a little while before he responds.
Dave
I think I have a plan for all of this. I have a basic plan from Dropbox that gives you 2GB of space for free..After I have all the scans done, I can Zip up the scans and then place a link here on this thread.
So far what I have scanned, 50 pages or so is about 22mb..About a half MB for each scan..
190 pages for that section of the service manual will be about 95-100 MB..So if someone wants download it, I will tell them the size by the link to know how big it is
www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/ez1wdqb4fo7hh70avpr59/Section-8-Electrical.exe?rlkey=jr2esfkris2i5xvim1tnp38w7&dl=0
I hope this link works..It is a self extracting Zip file..Dropbox will try to get you to open an account..You don't need to do that..Just start the download..about 100 MBs because each sheet is 200DPI to have a nice clear copy of it..
Let me know how it works for you
Yep it worked,
But it will be a great addition to CWVRV too. The electrical part I have now and is the most important for me now.
For me it doesn't matter how i receive the file, (per page or more page combined in a package) but I don't know how this is for Mark. As you are doing this great effort, let's make it usefull for everybody.
I answered your private message as well, Mike.
I have sent Mark a PM but no reponse..I can take the link down at any time so that Mark can put it into his library..
I am willing to scan each section as I did with the electrical..This scanner(HP Officejet Pro 8600) is faster than you can load the sheet that needs scanning!!
I know,
I work in the hotelindustry where we do a lot of scanning. I actually had the same plan, scanning it for CWVRV, cause i saw already it's a goldmine of information.