Hi all. take 2 the first attempt disappeared I think my attached photo was big....
Im seeking advice on repairing a section of the aluminum roof. The rotted section extends from the vent cover across and over the rounded part of the roof and into the drip rail. It is a section that one sheet of aluminum overlapped another. Probable a section a foot wide by 4 feet long needs to be cut out and a new section welded in. If that is the way to fix this challenge.
Is there a special type of aluminum sheet to use here? I picked up 4 pieces very clean aluminum 5'x8' sheets that were used as decorative interior wall advertising. They have not been exposed to weather and were only a little dusty. The who lot cost me $20 so if they cant be used for this type of repair Ill use them for some other stuff.
Do the interior cabinets and the ceiling that is just under this rotted roof area have to be removed to weld in a new section of roof? Is there a technique to keep from having to do that? I dont want a fire or to ruin the cabinets etc in the process of repairing the rot.
Is there a less troubling long term repair that can be done? thanks in advance for guiding me
No special aluminum needed, but if you have wood rot, it needs to be replaced, not just covered over. And since the rot goes to the drip rail, you can bet it goes into that framing and down the wall as well.
The cabinets are screwed into the wall and ceiling. Not hard to remove, and advisable to do so.
What isn't advisable is to weld the aluminum on. The possibility of starting a fire is VERY high. The aluminum sheets should be glued onto goid plywood undersheeting and well sealed along the connecting edges with sealant tape (such as eternabond) under and overlapping the seams, then the whole area coated (should do the entire roof at the same time) or covered with an EPDM or other roof sheeting.
Roof rot repair is never a quick, easy fix. The rotted wood can't be left. It must be removed and replaced or it will just dry and crumble under there. A very bad situation, so it's prudent to do what needs to be done to fully repair it.
Thank you OZ. I will strip the interior out some to look at what I can see looking up....The Superior is supposed to have all zinc coated alloy skeleton. It was built by the Superior Bus company.... im not sure what that metal skeleton really means Im sure there must also be some wood in there also...maybe not..... Ill have to go figure it out....I do not see any signs of water damage on the interior ceiling or walls. Like you I am sure water leaked between the walls and probably ruined the insulation an what not in there since the drip rail is crusty. There is a window on that side so Ill have to see if there is any damage to its support etc...any water damage is not obvious for sure.
Let us know how you progress, and don't hesitate to ask if you need assistance!
Thank you OZ! I opened the cabinets to look for signs of water damage...none seen. The area on the outside of the RV just below the drip rail looks undamaged. The ceiling has two small penny sized bubbles....I will be starting this important repair next week. I need to finish the brakes now that I have the tight wheel bends that the wheel cylinder cross over tubes have figured out. I dont want this roof to experience any of the rain that will come in October....
My roof doesn't have plywood just aluminum,insulation and ceiling. What do I do?
Not uncommon. Does your roof have damage, leaks...?