My fan clutch freezed and the thermostat is stuck open. Time to take a closer look at my cooling system...
(https://i.imgur.com/Vl6WQd9.jpg)
The belt from the air pump touched the upper radiator hose!
(https://i.imgur.com/tvrNVKO.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/2dr2sWq.jpg)
New water pump...
(https://i.imgur.com/UUM99Xw.jpg)
New thermostat and gasket...
(https://i.imgur.com/hcSo0E8.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/JEfAp72.jpg)
I decided to replace the radiator, water-pump, thermostat and hoses!Good time to put a timing tape on your balancer too!
(https://i.imgur.com/fss8R5d.jpg)
This job is a real PITA. Unfortunately I discovered that my Brake master cylinder is leaking brake fluid. Good time to replace the power-steering pump, all rubber hoses and the hydroboost as well....
(https://i.imgur.com/96EogaE.jpg)(https://i.imgur.com/fs2z0DL.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/8choNkv.jpg)(https://i.imgur.com/EyuehvX.jpg)(https://i.imgur.com/MUOOkxm.jpg)
The good news is that after this project there is really not a lot left to replace...
I see you are leaving your emissions pumps on, I seem to remember someone else saying that your area still requires emissions testing. Otherwise I would be removing them before they lock up on the road. And they will eventually. I had to laugh when I saw the timing tape, I put that on mine and the next time I went to check my timing it was gone. And I sanded cleaned and painted the balancer before putting the tape on and it still fell off. Another thing I noticed, and I did the same thing, all that trouble and you also didn't change the timing chain. I am still kicking myself for that one! Oh well, hindsight is 20-20. Were you able to find the replacement hydroboost hoses with no problem? Another set of hoses that will need to be looked at is the oil cooler lines and from what I have gathered they are no longer available. I plan to make my own using AN fittings and high temp oil line.
Quote from: Rickf1985 on May 29, 2020, 09:07 AM
I see you are leaving your emissions pumps on, I seem to remember someone else saying that your area still requires emissions testing. Otherwise I would be removing them before they lock up on the road. And they will eventually. I had to laugh when I saw the timing tape, I put that on mine and the next time I went to check my timing it was gone. And I sanded cleaned and painted the balancer before putting the tape on and it still fell off. Another thing I noticed, and I did the same thing, all that trouble and you also didn't change the timing chain. I am still kicking myself for that one! Oh well, hindsight is 20-20. Were you able to find the replacement hydroboost hoses with no problem? Another set of hoses that will need to be looked at is the oil cooler lines and from what I have gathered they are no longer available. I plan to make my own using AN fittings and high temp oil line.
Yup - yearly Emission testing idle and load test / visual inspection emission and evaporative systems... the pumps and all vacuum lines have to stay in place. I will go without the belts for the pumps - my last Emission numbers were perfect. I think the working EGR helps a lot at the load test with NOX. Since I have the Edelbrock 1904 carburetor I pass easily idle testing - before with the original quadrajet I barely passed. I hope the MSD timing tape is holding up better, before I had the Mr. Gasket timing tape and it just fell off... I used all the wrong diameter tapes and put them on the balancer and removed them, so there should be great contact for the 8" diameter tape. I have only 80000 miles on the engine and drive 3000 miles every year - I check every year my timing with a timing light and the timing mark is pretty steady. If the timing chain had a lot of slop you would have trouble to see the actual timing. At 100000 I will change the timing chain.My oil cooler lines are in great shape. Originally I wanted to flush the Power Steering fluid - but when I removed the old fluid from the reservoir I pumped black sludge into my vacuum pump - not good (disintegrated seals or rubber hoses). That is the reason I replace the power-steering pump, hydroboost and all rubber lines. I only needed to order the pressure line from the power steering pump to hydroboost (https://i.imgur.com/PcwpOaJ.jpg)The pressure line from the hydroboost to the steering is full metal and in great shape. All low pressure hoses are standard return hoses which you buy by the foot.
The hydroboost replacement is a story for itself. The first hydroboost from Oreily's was the right hydroboost but had a different pushrod to brake pedal system (grommeted) and came without the pushrod for the pedal... But my P30 uses a staked pushrod to pedal connection. You can not remove the pushrod from a staked system(https://i.imgur.com/tBKEOgE.jpg)
The correct remanufactured hydroboost came with the staked pushrod to pedal, but without the pushrod from hydroboost to master brake cylinder!
(https://i.imgur.com/BxhDcyH.jpg)
You have to remove this pushrod from your old hydroboost. The problem is there is a plastic washer at the end of the pushrod and if you remove the pushrod the plastic washer will fall into pieces. And it did.
(https://i.imgur.com/DDOle33.jpg)
This washer is super important, since the spring pushes this washer and the rod into the center of the hydroboost. Without this washer your brakes will lock.I pressed a nylon washer on the pushrod and glued a washer on it - works great...
(https://i.imgur.com/vSqL0ez.jpg)(https://i.imgur.com/jW7pfj1.jpg)
The big nut needs 110 ft/lb torque - I used a chisel and hammer. There is as well a security spring.
(https://i.imgur.com/Rjiefou.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/x8IGyIt.jpg)
Making progress:
(https://i.imgur.com/6yd7x3N.jpg)
I installed as well a 1 inch spacer under my carburetor, I had fuel bowl boil and vapor locks in the past... replaced the fuel line with a heat shield and future upgrade for a fuel pressure gauge. Actually I need the spacer so I can adjust the idle mixture screws without burning my fingers...
(https://i.imgur.com/z7MK0Yo.jpg)(https://i.imgur.com/0toWqFI.jpg)
I am not sure others can do this but my Holiday Rambler has 2 inches space from air filter housing to the doghouse... I replaced as well the carb filter and was pretty surprised how dirty it was again. I replaced this one in 2017 and replace my inline filter every 2 years.
(https://i.imgur.com/bzvmA9x.jpg)
You said you are running an Edelbrock 1904 carburetor? Are you sure on that? That carb is only a 500 CFM carb and that simply will not feed a 454 engine! You should be running a 1913 or a 1413 800 CFM unit.
Quote from: Rickf1985 on May 30, 2020, 08:12 AM
You said you are running an Edelbrock 1904 carburetor? Are you sure on that? That carb is only a 500 CFM carb and that simply will not feed a 454 engine! You should be running a 1913 or a 1413 800 CFM unit.
It is a Edelbrock 1904 Performer Quadrajet with 800 CFM...(https://i.imgur.com/difQQ8G.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/8CiTvgl.jpg)(https://i.imgur.com/NUD9nRb.jpg)
Ahh, That is the one I have on mine but I got it from a friend who bought it for his GTO Judge and never used it. I really need to rework the jets but I am having trouble finding the original stuff from Edelbrock. They don't support them anymore. Or so I was told.
This is my latest Emission test:
(https://i.imgur.com/T7yCBT1.jpg)
The last 2 years they skipped the visual inspection - not accessible... I think with my emission numbers I will pass emission without the air pumps. I do believe that you need the EGR and the vacuum lines especially the purge lines from the fuel vent line canister!
(https://i.imgur.com/P0XHGjl.jpg)
Since my engine runs good I will leave all the vacuum lines and TVS, etc. working. I just run without the air pumps...
(https://i.imgur.com/B6jUpea.jpg)
It wouldn't be a problem to put the 2 air pump belts on for the emission test.
I can't believe that I work since 2 weeks on my RV - oh well. Slow progress...
(https://i.imgur.com/rFGQNhW.jpg)(https://i.imgur.com/RHhtmBr.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/jPhRlAf.jpg)
Radiator looks good quality - 290$, normally you would pay 550$.
It is worth every step. I may not be able to work on mine due to medical issues. May even look to putting a for sale sign on it. I would like to get a smaller one. 1975 Chieftain is what I have now. :'(
They are a lot of work, I am debating what to do with mine also due to ability to constantly work on it. That aluminum radiator looks like the same one I put in mine. They work quite well. The problem with leaving the air pumps disconnected is that they tend to seize up. Also be sure to plug the hose from the air box on the exhaust manifold or it will blow back and make a racket.
By the way, they are some REALLY low HC readings for a big block!!!
Quote from: Rickf1985 on June 03, 2020, 09:59 AM
. Also be sure to plug the hose from the air box on the exhaust manifold or it will blow back and make a racket.
(https://i.imgur.com/QDITBwV.jpg)
Aren't the check valves one way valves? There shouldn't come anything back! Maybe I am not clear what hose you mean.
They are check valves but they are a flapper valve so you will still get a lot of noise from them. It is not loud exhaust leak type noise, it is a buzzing/humming noise that will drive you nuts. I just cut the hoses and put corks in them. In your case since you plan to hook up the pumps again you are probably leaving all of that hooked up so it may not make noise if it can't push back through the pump. If it does just disconnect it at the pump and plug it there or get short sections of hose and plug them up top.
Thank you Rick for the information.
Installed a Power Steering Pump Cooler and Filter... I flat-tow my car and my RV will hit 19000 GCWR - no idea why there was never one!
(https://i.imgur.com/P3FSHnf.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/RbtRuBw.jpg)
Today we had already 111 Fahrenheit heat in Phoenix... That is the reason I have two additional trans cooler - when I disconnected the trans oil line the oil looked exactly like I filled it in 2015. Back then I changed the filter and flushed the lines and installed the second trans cooler and used Dexron VI.
Changed the oil and used Fleetguard LF692 Lube Filter - I bought 4 pc for 40$ - they look good quality. Never liked the closeness to the exhaust, so I wrapped a heat-shield around the filter. Hope it helps.
(https://i.imgur.com/0lP5FJO.jpg)
I see you are a fan of the magnets on the oil pan and filter. I always figured that if anything ferrous was loose in there the magnets were not going to help me at that point. The damage was already done. On yours is the AC condensor half condenser and half engine oil cooler? That is how mine is but that seems to have been a heavy duty upgrade that I don't see often. The only problem with stacking up all those coolers in front of the radiator is that you are really heating up the air going through the radiator. I also run a second trans cooler but I have a long two tube one that I have below the front bumper that get all of the airflow from the road. Even though that can be pretty hot at times at least it is not shedding the extra heat into the radiator.
Quote from: Rickf1985 on June 05, 2020, 09:29 AM
On yours is the AC condensor half condenser and half engine oil cooler? That is how mine is but that seems to have been a heavy duty upgrade that I don't see often. The only problem with stacking up all those coolers in front of the radiator is that you are really heating up the air going through the radiator. I also run a second trans cooler but I have a long two tube one that I have below the front bumper that get all of the airflow from the road. Even though that can be pretty hot at times at least it is not shedding the extra heat into the radiator.
The lower 6 rows from my AC condenser are for engine oil cooling. I wish it would be bigger... I have 3 trans cooler! One in the Radiator, one in front of the condenser and one under/behind the front bumper - but there is a spoiler under the front bumper which pushes fresh air up...
(https://i.imgur.com/4zblBuM.jpg)
I started the engine today and it looks like no leaks. I turned the front wheels (in the air) from side to side, but I vacuum primed the power steering pump/hydroboost/steering gear at installation and there was not a lot of air left in the lines. Next days I will bleed my brakes and replace the rubber lines...
I bought for a good price old new stock BANKS Power air cleaner cover/ K+N Filter/ Super scoop Cold Air Intake.Never realized how much bigger the Banks air cleaner cover is. I can drop the original cover inside the new cover. Original has 44 inch circumference and the Banks is 50 inch. I removed the charcoal thing in the air cleaner as well - later models don't have this.
(https://i.imgur.com/V7zvj5L.jpg)(https://i.imgur.com/3AvhxiC.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/FyfmJIt.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/LEXnAL6.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/Tjzf3pv.jpg)
After 20 minute Idling, I touched the air pump hoses and they are really hot - maybe the check valves are not sealing good. I will put plugs with short hoses on the check valves... The engine sounds great without the noise from the air pumps!
Like I said, those valves are flapper valves and they are designed to have positive airflow all the time so without any positive flow they will backflow exhaust. Those Banks systems are great if you get the entire thing with the headers and everything. I don't think just the air cleaner is going to help much. The charcoal ring is part of the Evap system. It holds vapors from the carb until the next start. On mine the dogbox cover actually has a mark in it from the air cleaner screw and the sound deadener I put on it had to be trimmed to let the cover sit low enough to seal. I could not go any bigger on the air cleaner unless I put a hump in the dogbox.
And that is one really beautiful rig!!!!!
Quote from: Rickf1985 on June 06, 2020, 08:15 AM
And that is one really beautiful rig!!!!!
Thank you... the paint is still in perfect shape and the frame is in great shape - I wouldn't invest so much time and work if it wasn't a aluminum body.
This morning I started the engine and the alternator belt slipped. I didn't have a problem to tension it before, but now I realized I removed the lower air pump and it is a total different angle with the shorter belt...
(https://i.imgur.com/TfS1K0a.jpg)
The solution was just a ratched strap... Easy and I tensioned all belts to 1/4 inch deflection.
Replaced the front brake lines and flushed the front brakes. The old lines didn't looked good:
(https://i.imgur.com/RSCOzbk.jpg)
New Brake Lines:
(https://i.imgur.com/l7Xe3NE.jpg)
Replaced as well the bleeder screws:
(https://i.imgur.com/TngA0Cz.jpg)
Last year I replaced the front brake pads:
(https://i.imgur.com/esVflNd.jpg)
Front driver side brake hose Dorman 38166
Front passenger side brake hose Dorman 38167
Rear driver side brake hose Dorman 38264
Rear passenger side brake hose Dorman 38267
Rear center brake hose AC Delco 13271PX
Dorman was the only one, which put P30 Motorhome chassis in its description. There are 21, 22 and 23 inch hoses from other manufacturer and many excluded Motorhome chassis in there description...
Lower Radiator Hose Gates 21442
Upper Radiator Hose Gates 21519
Bypass Hose Dayco 88387
Power Steering Belt 15410
AC Belt 15603
Alternator Belt without Air pump 6K525
Replaced the Oil and Filter on my ONAN Generator Genset III - Filter is a NAPA 1516
(https://i.imgur.com/NHCJfUd.jpg)
Opps !
It's right Frank, you are looking towards the front in that pic, the exhaust exits in front of the rear axle.
Replaced the rear brake pads and brake hoses. This is a mayor job...
In the front I used AC Delco 171704 and in the rear AC Delco 17D149M - theoretically they should be the same. But my front pads are slotted and my rears are not slotted and came with shims. They are both semi metallic and are made in Canada.
(https://i.imgur.com/WcSbhuk.jpg)
I numbered the torque sequence...
(https://i.imgur.com/EkQAqqB.jpg)
To remove the outboard wheel was easy, but the inboard wheel was like glued...
(https://i.imgur.com/AjIj4Ds.jpg)
Replaced the brake hoses as well:
(https://i.imgur.com/HLMNCDw.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/hCkpCoM.jpg)
You have to remove the rust from the slides and use high temp grease there...
(https://i.imgur.com/vbQX1um.jpg)
I replaced all bleeder screws and they are great - you only need a 1/4 turn to bleed. They come with teflon on it and I should be able to bleed it now with the tires on.
(https://i.imgur.com/4i5ApIc.jpg)
I flushed the brake lines and the old brake fluid looked contaminated...
(https://i.imgur.com/Y1OGlbL.jpg)
I installed as well dynamic balancer from Centramatic... these are between the dually's.
(https://i.imgur.com/FlRqSoX.jpg)
The old brake pads where on there last leg!
(https://i.imgur.com/CjhUmLT.jpg)
This is the brake fluid I used...
(https://i.imgur.com/oCU2xeG.jpg)
Did the rear driver side disc brakes and brake hose... I can't imagine removing the 10 x 1" Nuts without my Impact Drill!
(https://i.imgur.com/TFdKKCr.jpg)
This is the reason I replaced all rubber brake hoses... Even they look good outside - they are disintegrating internal:
(https://i.imgur.com/i3OQGfE.jpg)
There was no recommendation anywhere - so I fasten the Nuts to first 100 ft/lb then 135 ft/lb and finally 170 ft/lb torque:
(https://i.imgur.com/QimqPMv.jpg)
I bolted the Crossfire dual tire pressure equalization system to the wheel simulator - before I had them bolted to the little leash and one side broke off. I have them since 5 years and they work great!
(https://i.imgur.com/mNk1y7W.jpg)
I had to replace a few fasteners from the wheel simulators - someone used the wrong tool and destroyed them.
(https://i.imgur.com/t0nTsPM.jpg)
Better picture of the short rear brake hose and bleeder screw:
(https://i.imgur.com/G6hk8J4.jpg)
If you have a tag axle from MORryde you can only slide the securing plate from the brake saddle outboard! Not enough room to drive it inboard...
(https://i.imgur.com/qI8X0is.jpg)
Greased all zerk fittings - so much easier with 10000 psi...
(https://i.imgur.com/Dqh1rkk.jpg)
On the 1988 P30 you will have 10 grease zerks on the driver side, 8 on the passenger side and 4 on the drive shafts:
(https://i.imgur.com/X8K7ied.jpg)
Lot of good info here! :)ThmbUp I'm pretty much doing the same on mine but I'm also replacing brakes, calipers, rotors, drums shoes, wheel cylinders, brake master cylinder and rubber hose all around.
SUCCESS!
Made finally a test drive today... 105 F outside temperature. Drove thru the city to the next freeway - 205 F coolant temp and when I accelerated on the freeway ramp uphill it went to 210 F. At 210 F the Hayden fan clutch 2797 engages. Actually the fan clutch was only 2 times for a short duration engaged. The Edelbrock water pump uses higher pressure and pumps 20 % more coolant fluid with equal pressure on both sides.
Brakes work great and no squeal. 1/3 shorter brake distance! I use the same brake fluid in my car and it improved the braking as well.
All new shocks and new front airbags improved the ride and handling. Until now zero vibration at any speed (I had before between 55 and 58 mph vibrations) - my guess is the centramatic dynamic wheel balancer are working.
Engine accelerated so much better - I am pretty sure the charcoal filter inside the airfilter box chocked the engine (it occupied 90% of the airflow!).
Last year I left my outside temp sensor above the battery and it showed at idle 140 F heat exactly where the oem air inlet is - no there is not the same temp like outside! That is why I installed the cold air intake system.
(https://i.imgur.com/oCjDyjI.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/pYtcd38.jpg)
The new installed power steering pump cooler works. You can barely touch the cooler - it is that hot! I think for heavy RV's like mine it is a must. It was not the original power steering pump which I replaced...
I don't think you need all the cooling like me if you live farther north. But if you ever drive in the summer months from Phoenix to Palm Springs or Phoenix to San Antonio or Las Vegas, you will understand what I did.
The next days I will travel 1300 miles and will report back...
Good luck and have a safe trip, you definitely prepared well for it.
Everything went fine... Passed only 2 vehicles on the whole trip, even I drove between 60-63 mph. I drove 95% with cruise control - so quite relaxing.
The biggest improvement are my LED headlights. They are bright - that I like now to drive in the night... Before there were only 2 headlights on and now all 4 headlights are working...
(https://i.imgur.com/fNAcerM.jpg)
My temp gauges were bobbing, so I added more ground wires and it fixed it... What a mess of cables!
(https://i.imgur.com/7iOobuz.jpg)
My newly improved cooling system worked great! The last 900 miles the temp stayed at 202 F, the fan clutch engaged only on for 4-5 minutes total and that was on 7% grades.
The revised braking system worked great as well. It is much safer now...
The suspension and handling was great, but I had to lower the front air bag pressure. I drove the first 670 miles with 75 psi and it felt super stable. The problems came the last 630 miles when I drove in 4 thunderstorms and I had the whole time 20 mph cross/headwind. I had to lower it to 65 psi and it made a huge difference in the windy conditions. Much more stable...
The first 670 miles I averaged 7.3 mpg, but the last 630 miles with the cross/headwind it went down to 5.9 mpg. So I averaged only 6.6 mpg which is actually better then last years 6.2 mpg. If you flat tow your car and go down the road with 19.000 GCWR I think even newer RV's will not do a lot better.
With the current fuel prices I enjoy traveling much more! It is like giving the vintage RV's a second life. Where I am right now the price for regular fuel is 1.69$ the gallon!
Glad all went well. The boat connector electrical connectors are a major contributor of electrical problems. I suggest you get rid of them and replace them with either soldered connections or weatherpac connectors.
Those Imperials are beautiful, big units. I had an AlumaLite 31, and yes the wiring was mess apparently from the factory!
Quote from: Rickf1985 on June 20, 2020, 03:39 PM
Glad all went well. The boat connector electrical connectors are a major contributor of electrical problems. I suggest you get rid of them and replace them with either soldered connections or weatherpac connectors.
I just saw this post today but do you mean something like this??? W%
https://www.classicwinnebagos.com/forum/index.php?topic=16254.0 (https://www.classicwinnebagos.com/forum/index.php?topic=16254.0)
I really was in shock when i saw the picture. I was completely in love with the awesome job and this beautiful rig. It probably costed a small fortune and lots of labour, and then suddenly this.
Your electrical system controls almost anything you use in your rig. Adding ground wiring to your electrical system because of bobbing meters is bypassing your problem, not fixing it, unless it is a commonly known fact from factory off.