Hiya all :-)
Trying to source a new radiator in the UK for my 87 Chieftain..
Photo of it at http://smg.photobucket.com/user/outrage/media/1497978615999-159526364.jpg.html?sort=3&o=0 (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/outrage/media/1497978615999-159526364.jpg.html?sort=3&o=0)
I'm being told replacement should be a spectra CU850 but it has a missing hole compared to mine (top right in photo)
Anyone know what the extra pipe might lead to, or a part number for a radiator with the same holes?
All info greatly appreciated :-)
It also has a radiator cap located where your old one doesn't. Doesn't seem to be a very good replacement.
I had a NPT hole missing on my replacement, for a thermal switch in one end reservoir. The new ones are plastic, so the switch would not have worked there anyway, needs to be grounded. Maybe you are running into the same scenario.
IAN! How are you. Long time no hear from.
Hiya :-)
Ya, been a while, been trying to keep off the net, finally had a (crap) reason to return, due to my nuisance radiator :-(
Hoping I find you well?
Fair. We havent seen Stripe in a long time. Still inking?
Sorry, didnt mean to sidetrack your thread . Good to see you again.
That is the same radiator that was in mine, I do not see any other pictures though so I cannot compare. the old one should also have a large hole in the front on the right side of the coach for the fill tube since you generally cannot get to a radiator cap on top of the radiator.
Good to hear from you - problems notwithstanding!
Sounds the same Rick, any info on part numbers for it? :-)
M&J, Yup, still tattooing :-)..
Quote from: Wbago on June 21, 2017, 04:18 AM
Sounds the same Rick, any info on part numbers for it? :-)
1544, RA1221-11B1, C1544, 21383, CU1544, 431338
Sorry Ian, It has been a long time since I did it so I don't have the paperwork at hand. I did a write up on it on here when I did it but you would have to do a search to find it. I am not sure about the numbers in the post above, none sound familiar but different companies use different coding. Someone else on here just replaced one with the same as mine just recently, I do know that. I will see if I can find the receipt.
This for that, tarifachris, but nope, been through those lol :-)
Most fail cos there's only one oil channel through them, I need 2.
The only 2 channel one I've seen so far has the wrong sized pipe fittings, and I've yet to find a forward facing filler hole :-(
Tomorrow it's getting dropped in for a quote on possible repair.
Suspicion so far is that's it's the rare one fitted 84-90, made by Harrison I think, but it has no markings to confirm, only info is that the top hole is the return from the motoraid, and was later changed due to inefficient cooling. If it IS, it's been discontinued anyway.
No worries Rick, probably gonna be the more normal version anyhoo, no rushing round needed, lol :-)..
Serves me right for having a slightly rarer rare motor :-)
Answering your question on the extra hole. I think that it is the heater return hose. I will have to look at mine again to see for sure.
The holes on the radiator I see in the picture which is the old one I guess are from the left top, The coolant return from the engine and below that are the oil cooler lines and the temp sensor for the electric fans and at the bottom is the engine coolant supply. And obviously the drain cock. On the other side on top is the heater return line and below that are the transmission lines. Now when I got my new one I needed adapters for most of the lines but they came with the radiator for the transmission lines and my oil cooler goes out to a large unit in front of the radiator so those are not used. The one thing it does not have is the fitting for the temp fitting to turn on the fans at high temps. I set mine up on a switch through the original solenoid.
Ya, the top right hole is the return from the motoraid.
The whole motoraid system is T'd from main pipes, then T'd back into the system, which then pipes into that top hole. More modern way is T'd into the top hose, leaving the other pipe intact, which is part of the extra bits I'd need to fit to use a modern rad, along with an extra front mounted oil cooler, as yours is.
If I go that way, I'll be mounting the new cooler in front where the a/c condenser is originally, probably with extra fans or shrouding. :-)
Yup, more correctly a heater return, as the heater pipes are the bit that the motoraid runs from also. Rear heater bypassed on mine, just the water heater motoraid pipes are fitted :-)
Update..
6 leaks, 4 split pipes inside!
Recore on my rad is £300 (UK pounds)
How does that compare with usa prices?
A little on the high side but be careful because over here there are no good cores to be had, They are all Chinese junk. My radiator guy stopped doing recores because they are so thin they are impossible to work with and they can split under normal working pressures. That is why everyone is going to the aluminum. The aluminum actually cools better and is a hell of a lot lighter.
Getting it done by http://readyrads.co.uk
They seem to know what they're doing :-)
They do advertise that they do
•Bespoke radiators made to individual specification
•Vintage Car radiator repairs / re-condition to original specification
so it may be a better solution than a major search (that you have been unsuccessful with to date) for a new replacement.
Seems the aluminium one comes at higher cost, can't use my brass ends so all new, I'm going for the copper with my original ends etc...
Not sure which of the oil pipes need rubber grommets now, didn't notice any while I took it out.....
You
Today was fitting day :-) Awkward but straightforward enough, flushed and filled then ran to hot...
Then spotted a tiny drip from an oil pipe, so I had a look, seems there's a slight kink in the oil pipe under the radiator frame, which the job has made a bit worse :-(
Easy to get at, so rubber and clips will fix it I think..
4 hours out, 3 hours in, refitting the hood lid was an hour of that lol...
Runs cooler than before, didn't see fans come on, will run to hot again when the pipes are sorted :-)
Thanks for the help and confidence, much appreciated as always ;-)
Make sure you use oil hose and not fuel line! Fuel line will get soft and break in short order using it for oil.
Thinking I'm gonna use one of the removed a/c hoses, tbh... Also got some water pipe that's about the right size, what do you think? :-)
I have engine oil lines from oil filter housing to the passenger side of the radiator, and atf lines to the driver side, with the radiator core in the middle.. all done in one part, not seperate coolers...
No accurate temp guage, but initial test (before I found the oil leak) showed temp to be cooler than it was before the rad came out, now I gotta get it real hot to be sure the fans come on at right temps, might just swap for a variable type with an override :-)
And I think I have the panels fitted, it's pretty well ducted from the grill to the rad :-)
I would not use the AC line, go to the parts store and get transmission line hose. And double clamp both ends since it will not have a flare of any type to hold it.
And on mine the engine oil cooler is as described by Ralph except that the oil cooler is the left side and the AC condenser is the right side of the cooler in front of the radiator, It is one cooler with two functions. I doubt I could ever find a replacement for that one.
There's a few different configurations, not sure why exactly.... Mine seems to be the rarest one, nothing else has the 3-way cooling that I've seen, rebuild was the only way.
Other option was to use the cheap rad, and use adapters to fit the lines, or fit new oil and transmission coolers, result of which would have mirrored your set up :-)
The reason I thought of using the ac pipe was the strength of it.local parts shop has oil pipe, but it's half as thick, more like water pipe, didn't want it to swell.
Just ordered an imperial flaring tool, if I can get a short pipe made up, I'll cut, flare and fit new 2ft long pieces, otherwise yup, double clips for defo :-)
It is not so much the thickness but the composition of the material. It is like comparing fuel line to oil line. Fuel line will soften and swell if you use it for oil but they are both made of rubber. I don't know about the AC lines, They have oil in them but it is a synthetic oil for AC use so I don't know how they would handle hot motor oil. Another thing I noticed is the language issue, you are referring to pipes for everything even place I think there would have to be rubber so I am just assuming soe of what you are calling pipe is probably rubber. The AC Metal pipes are made of aluminum and will most likely split if you try to flare them.
They're all pipes lol :-)
To clarify...
Alloy pipes from back of rad to under rad, all the way to a rubber hose fitting... the leak is at one of the fixings under the rad, in an alloy pipe approx. 3/8" ..
Repaired the oil lines today - hose used was a 12.7mm internal diameter, 400psi dedicated oil hose, made by Pirtek.
At side of the radiator was a large drum type canister, and it was in contact with the alloy pipe, vibration cut a wedge into it, and fitting the radiator had made it open I think, giving me 2 leaks in one section.
Ran to hot, runs cooler than it used to, so next will be to fit a new sensor and gauge, and a variable thermostat to control the fans.
That should let me see where it's 'happy' and let me set the fans to suit, no idea what it 'should' be tho, as yet :-)
Well, the thermostat should be 180 degree or 190 degree. Not sure which you have in yours but you can tell by watching your ten=mp gauge if you have a fairly accurate aftermarket one when you start it up cold. Just watch it as it warms up and you will see the gauge drop as the thermostat opens. That is the opening temp of the thermostat. If you have just the "cold-hot" gauge then you can still use it by watching it the same way and noting where on the gauge it drops. I usually note what letter or mark on the face of the gauge it changed at. If it runs hotter than that point then it is time to turn on the fans. Remember, the fans will not coll it off below the thermostat opening point, that is the reason for the thermostat, to keep the engine at the proper temperature.
Yup, just what I'm thinking :-)
New gauge is a blue digital one, with new sensor too, going in big top hose... Gauge also has a 212F warning lamp..
Also putting a 3 way switch for the fans, off/auto/override, with an indicator bulb on the override as a reminder :-)
Gauge is fitted, the van runs to 81 Celsius, I'm happy with that. Still didn't get hot enough to trip fans on, so new capillary switch will get fitted next week :-)