Can someone draw me an idiots schematic of what style 12v toggle switches to use (3-way or 2-way style switches or?), and the wiring needed to have 2 switches capable of turning my water pump off/on from two different locations in the motor home? Just something simple...Thanks for any info.
Are we talking just two switches for on and off independently, or being able to turn on at one and off (or visa versa) from the other (known as a three way like the lights in your house)?
If the later...
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The light bulb would be the pump, and if you want small rocker/toggle switches they would need to be able to duplicate the function of that wall switch. You would need four conductor wire (available at any big box store, and 14 gauge would be fine).
I let my fingers do some walking and I found this....
http://www.ehow.com/how_7631429_add-switch-rv-water-pump.html
Now I know what I did wrong! W% I need to add a 3-way switch in place of my master off/on switch, then wire it to my new remote 2-way switch. I have two 2-way toggles trying to power my pump right now, lets just say one of them doesn't work properly... :-[ I'm an electrical dumbbbee.
I would just like to turn the pump on in the bathroom if needed. I don't want to cancel out the other switches function, but maybe that is the way it has to be? Can they work independently?
From the link you shared, I take it you have a pressurized water system? If so why not just put a pressure switch on your pump and leave the main power switch on? I have one on mine and just leave the pump on at all times when using the RV. I run a pressure switch that kicks on when my water drops below 10PSI then turns off automatically when it reaches 40PSI. Although it's worked great for me if I were to do it again I'd do two pressures that were closer together so that the compressor doesn't have to run for so long.
I have a brand new Shurflo pump, standard water system. I don't have a pressurized system like the old winny's.
Let me get myself clear Logo.
Do you want to be able to turn on and off at 2 switches (two different places and you would not be able to turn switch one on then use switch two to turn off)?
Or be able to turn on at the first switch and then off at the other and visa versa?
First scenario is easy, second would be a three way setup.
That is an on demand pump, just leave it on so that you have water when and where you need it. The pump will only run as long as water is running.
Yes, first scenario! lol
Quote from: Rickf1985 on May 22, 2017, 04:53 PM
That is an on demand pump, just leave it on so that you have water when and where you need it. The pump will only run as long as water is running.
I don't like to leave my pump on unless I'm using the water Rick. I've always been that way in all my RV's. I don't want to come back to the rig after a hike and see a blown out water line and a burnt up pump N:(
All I want is this: If I go into the bathroom and $@!#@! , and I realize at that time, that I forgot to turn the water pump on in the kitchen so I could flush, I want the ability to just reach over to my left and switch the water pump on!! Its a convenience addition to the rig W%
12v pump switch? Infinitely simple. Im just no good at drawing stuff in here.
All you have to do is parallel another switch across the 2 wires that already connect the switch to the pump. Let me see if i can find a simple schematic i can paste.
The 120v switch wiring does not apply.
Well, I cant find a simple 12v parallel switch diagram and this stupid tablet doesnt have a paint program to draw one.
Maybe Dave will be on later and fix you up.
I'm sorry.
I wish I knew how to draw and post a pic on here....I have no idea how that's done.
I wired in two new illuminated 3-pole rocker switches, 10 amp fuse, used 16g wire.
1) Both switches share the same positive lead off the fuse panel, and both are grounded so the light works.
2) I ran both load wires out of the switches and connected them to the + on the pump.
3) The kitchen switch works great, pump runs as should.
4) The bathroom switch blows the fuse immediately, doesn't matter what position the kitchen switch is in.
5) All the wiring is new, no shorts or exposed wiring that I can find.
Maybe this will paint a messed up picture for someone?? :)rotflmao
A tree pole switch can be on-off-on or it can be N/On-off N/ off You really only need two pole but you can work with these but need to know which they are before advising on hookup.
It is pretty simple though and it sounds like you have the right idea, you need the switched side of the switch to go to the plus side of the pump from both switches. The hot wire coming to the switch would normally go to the center terminal but that is where I need to know what the switch is. Even if both switches are on the pump only sees 12 volts, it doesn't care where it comes from. In that scenario you would just have to turn off both switches to turn off the pump, but it would solve the problem of sitting down and realizing you have no water. Blowing a fuse tells me you are sending power to ground, you did not hook up any ground wires to the switches did you? If you did then disconnect them, the pump is the ground. I see you have them grounded for the light, is this light on all the time or just when the switch is on? If just when it is on then the light is grounded through the wiring to the pump. If it is on all the time there should be a very small 22 gauge wire just to ground the light. You should not be grounding any of the large terminals.
This is the schematic for what others where trying to use the light switch diagram to describe.
The fuse is the normal one in the DC distribution panel
(https://www.classicwinnebagos.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi286.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fll120%2FBaileyDave%2FRV%2520Water%2FWater%2520Pump%2520Switch_zpstqflmvog.jpg&hash=50cba7c3a5f90488f0db57995253e8e2a6d360c1)
And heres my simple hand drawn diagram sans the fuse.
Thanks Lego. Easy
The pump already has a ground going to it. Put the new toggle/rocker switch where you want it, and run 12+ volts to it (fused, can be the same source/fuse in the panel that the pump is already on as you are not adding additional load to it), then run the other side of the switch to the 12+ side of the pump.
You're just doing the same thing again that the factory did.
Here is my cool drawing. The switches are illuminated, so I had to ground the switch? correct?
I also bypassed the bath switch and ran a jumper wire between the positive and the pump wire, and it still pops the fuse immediately. AND if I leave the bath switch OFF, the kitchen switch runs the pump perfectly.
Looks good. Does the existing switch have an led? But no reason why you could not go there. Just refer to the switch info to know which terminal is ground (wouldn't want to get them mixed up and connect the ground to hot 12V when on) :D
Quote from: CapnDirk on May 23, 2017, 01:52 PM
Looks good. Does the existing switch have an led? But no reason why you could not go there. Just refer to the switch info to know which terminal is ground (wouldn't want to get them mixed up and connect the ground to hot 12V when on) :D
Yes, both switches are lit. I probably have the ground/positive reversed somewhere...... Hm? I'll update when I find my mistake, Thanks for the info everyone!!
What/whose switches did you use?
They are different brands. I had one in my electrical parts box from who knows when, so I only had to buy one new one. Not sure on the brand, I do know that neither one of them seem to be top shelf items....I think if you were to spend 10-15 dollars for one of these switches, it would probably be quality...I spent 5-6 dollars. idk
It could be you have the ground for the light and the load wires reversed. Common diagram below.
if you have a volt meter you would get some resistance between two lugs (the light) and checking two others would give you zero, and full resistance (the switched lugs) when the switch was thrown on and off. you might have to play with the order of where to put the incoming 12v lug to insure proper light function.
The important thing is figure out that ground lug. The other two will be the switched line in and out, BUT you may need to reverse the 12v positive lines (in, and out to the pump) to ensure the light comes on when the switch is thrown, instead of all the time.
I wont be messing with this until after the holiday, but I did by-pass the bathroom switch already and had the same fuse blowing results when I touched the positive lead to the load lead. I may have somehow grounded one of the hot wires?? I have no idea how I could of done that, but strange things happen sometimes...I'll update this thread when I figure it out. Thanks
Did you take ALL of the wires off of the bathroom switch and it is still blowing fuses? Or just the power wire. I see a couple things that could cause an issues but I pointed them out before and was over ridden by many other people. Eliminate that switch altogether, all of the wires.
I will for sure.
never hurts to try a different approach != my opinion
Well I guess I should close this thread....FIXED. It turned out to be one of the illuminated rocker switches was bad. Nothing wrong with my wiring job!! I found the problem by unplugging the wires to the water pump switch in the kitchen, I then could use the bathroom water pump switch with no issues! I hooked one wire up at a time to the kitchen switch and the last wire was the "ground" to illuminate the switch, guess what, it blows the fuse when I hook it up. What was weird, was the fact that the kitchen switch worked fine by itself, but when you add the second switch to the system, it couldn't handle it. It looks like a switch I paid 3$ for, made in China, with no brass ground terminal. I put a new (better quality) switch in it's place and all is good!! You can even trouble shoot the bad switch on the bench with a battery charger, and/or a meter and the switch tests good? Through me for a loop this one....
I don't quite understand why you need a ground terminal on a switch that is feeding power to a grounded circuit? All you are doing is tying into a hot wire, power in one side and power out the other side. The ground on a lighted switch is usually a fine wire from a diode that would not generally blow a breaker. If it did you just disconnect the ground.
If the ground is disconnected the switch won't illuminate. The whole purpose of me installing these switches is having the ease of glancing at the switch and knowing it is on/or off by the light...Maybe I don't understand where your coming from Rick i?? Or maybe Im just confusing people with how I sometimes write Hm? lol
So basically what you are saying is it worked fine but IF you hooked up the ground then it blew the fuse? shorting to ground at the light. China's best.
Yes, but only if the 2nd switch was in the system also. China's VERY best....