Got New master Cylinder and booster from Ebay. When they arrive I will see how to replace them
Well we got all the manuals right here and I you run into trouble we got DAVE :)rotflmao . You'll never run short of help here. D:oH!
Good luck with the parts, hope they fit. I've had too many problems with mail ordering parts and having them not fit, so I've switched back to getting them from brick and mortar stores b/c it makes returning the part a lot easier. Also I like having the old part on the counter next to the new part so I can verify it's going to work. For me, time wasted on the wrong part is worth way more than the dollars saved by ordering online.
Hi! I found the manual for 73 Chieftain but not the 73 D18 Brave :(
good point on the parts I am already having issues. The master cylinder arrive yesterday and I went to ebay to leave positive feedback for the fast shipping. Low and behold it said the booster was also delivered as they had the same tracking number? I contacted the seller who I found out is some third party with an auto response of "is the box damaged?" Uggh this is going to be a pain.
I would not worry about it just yet. UPS would not send two boxes with one tracking unless they were taped together solidly to make one entity. These places get your order and forward it to multiple warehouses sometimes to fullfil. The ebay store/person is a broker basically. One part could be coming from the next state, and one from the other end of the country.
Check with the neighbor, I had that happen recently. Box might be next door.
Contrary to popular belief N.A.P.A. is your best friend. When you get there ask for the oldest guy in the place. LJ and I have broken down all over the States and N.A.P.A. has always gotten out parts for us and have even delivered at a Walmart parking lot. :)ThmbUp
Thank you I have a local Napa!
Like TJ Said The oldest guy will know the most, But if all the counter persons look fairly young , Just ask if they know how to read and use the old manuals, If they are only educated in use of the computors N:( you may still be out of luck. Frank
Good News! The Brake Booster arrive today!
Bad News, I have no experience working on brakes! Actually I can barely do a tune up!
So tomorrow I will very carefully drive the not so stoppable Winnie to the shop up the road with the newly acquired parts and see what is to be.
???
Putting a vehicle on the road with no brakes is NOT smart!!! ONE Mistake and you are in an accident and the lawyers will own everything you ever thought you would own. Have it towed if you need to take it to a shop. The 100.00 tow is worth it in lie of millions in law suits for a bumper tap. And that is what they would get out of you for driving a vehicle on the road with a known no brake condition.
maybe he likes playing the odds?
Well depends. Wheres the shop? If it's at the corner Aaaaaaaah. But I have to go along with Rick on this one. You guys in the States have lost your minds when it comes to suing people. I live out in the country where you, depending can get away with something like that if your careful. But in the city. CRAZY. D:oH! Sorry.
and the house always wins
Good point, I will do the tow :) I have an appointment for Wednesday the 3rd
Your make'n us proud son, your making us proud. Good call. You can pay me now or you can pay me later. Well done. Not an easy decision with a limited budget. :)ThmbUp
I second that motion
Ralis:
They are not hard to change out yourself. Four nuts on the inside will turn lose both of them after you disconnect the brake lines on the master cylinder, and the plunger on the brake pedal. Have a can or something to catch the brake fluid that will come out of the master cylinder. Since you have help, once the new parts are on and new fluid is in, have the misses pump the brakes 5 times and hold down while you put a rubber hose on the bleeder valve into a clear glass container (you want to see the air coming out) and crack it open. Then close and repeat until no more air comes out. Move on to the next wheel and repeat. Be sure to keep the master cylinder full and the cap on while doing this. This has the added benefit of flushing your break fluid.
Worse thing that could happen if you install the parts and can't get the brakes bled is that you get charged for a brake bleed. Paying someone to install something that has a total of 6 nuts is paying someone money that could be used elsewhere on the Winnie.
PM me and I'll be glad to walk you through it with a phone call.
Actually that's not a half bad idea. Good point if your going to have it towed anyway. i?? Surely there's enough experience here we could talk you right through it. Hm?
You will not be able to pump it up on a completely empty system. You would open the right rear bleeder and have her push it to the floor and hold it there and close the bleeder, let up on the pedal. open bleeder and push to floor and hold, close bleeder. Repeat this until you get fluid and then move to the left rear and do the same, it will take much less time. then right front followed by left front. Then go around and do as Capn described with pumping up[ pressure and bleeding till air stops in the same order as before.
Hm? So if your going to have it towed pull the master cylinder. Go to the dollar store and pick up one of those cheap mustard/ketchup picnic dispensers. Pick up some cheap clear hose/tubing and attach it to the mustard cap and use it to suck out the break fluid out of the master cylinder. No once you do this DO NOT touch the break peddle. Now undo the to break lines. Remove the two bolts and remove the master break cylinder. To replace it just revers the procedure. Fill the master brake cylinder and then bleed the brakes. Cocked Locked and Ready to Rock. :)ThmbUp
I'm toying with doing this brake system renewal too. You guys are making this sound easier than I thought! But, how is also replacing the brake booster factored into this process (I have 2)?
replacing the two boosters on your rig wont be a easy job for a novice = but doable
They had two boosters, or booster and master cylinder?
Depends on chassis and year
Some had a single booster
(https://www.classicwinnebagos.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fdave78chieftain.com%2FM300_73-RM300%2FM300_73-RM300.JPG&hash=7237a552d6bd608a2d24ba036296bb88d18fdaca)
Some had dual booster
(https://www.classicwinnebagos.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fdave78chieftain.com%2FM300_69-Early%2FM300_69-Early.JPG&hash=388cc4eba77542ad77bcabd3f785a8a2cf906747)
(https://www.classicwinnebagos.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fdave78chieftain.com%2FM400_73-75-RM350%2FM400_73-75-RM350.JPG&hash=b21994f5e7a8da0301ce7d7329b0dd26ce606def)
Some had a hydroboost system
(https://www.classicwinnebagos.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fdave78chieftain.com%2FM400_76%2FM400_76.jpg&hash=7b1d917fc0f7de56a77fb0c2e876faf9c24ff0c0)
Thats why you have to know what you have
PS: Most all GM P30 where hydroboost however there were front disk/rear drum (JB8 or JB9) and front/rear disk (JF9) configurations.
WOW Guys, thanks!
I will attempt to at least pull the booster and Master Cylinder off.
If all goes well I will attempt to put the new ones on. If not, just have it towed as planned I have over a week at nights to try.
Thanks Dave I have the single booster with master cylinder
Since yours is a 1973 I'm assuming it's just the Master and single boost. Hm?
I suspect you have this configuration: 1972-73 Dodge Class A M300 (Late) Motorhome Brakes (http://dave78chieftain.com/M300_71-Late.html)
Has 4 wheel drum brakes
Wow Dave: Just looking at that multi booster setup stood up the hairs on my arms.
Ralis: We think you'll be fine. If we were there to help it would cost some amount of beer (we sit in lawn chairs and watch/advise, AKA the good old boys club), but we are available most anytime during the day here.
Quote from: ralis on April 19, 2017, 02:55 PM
Hi! I found the manual for 73 Chieftain but not the 73 D18 Brave :(
The store manual covers the Brave as well as the Chieftain, and the Indian as well. It goes by chassis designation, not model name.
I just purchased a 1974 Brave and have a leaking master cylinder. As well I should replace the booster too.
The start of this thread showed images of the replacements from ebay. I have tried to find the part numbers on here and elsewhere but not sure they are the right ones.
Does anyone have the link to the ebay items or actual part numbers to other retailers?
Thanks!
Assuming you have this configuration: 1973-74 Dodge Class A RM300 Motorhome Brakes (http://dave78chieftain.com/M300_73-RM300.html)
You want to use the M300/RM300 1973-78 (Front 12.82" Disc; 12" x 3" Rear Drum) section on this page: Dodge MH Brake Parts (http://dave78chieftain.com/MasterCylinder.htm)
Dave
Hi Guys!
So work got in the way again.The wife and I got to spend some on the Winnie. I crawled under and sprayed some of the BG Enforcer penetrating oil that LJ recommended on the two nuts holding the the master cylinder to the booster and the nuts hold the brake lines in. In the mourning I will attempt to open the top of the master cylinder and suck out the braked fluid with a squeeze bottle and tube. I am thinking of cutting a trap door for easier access.
After some more research I found both the master cylinder and booster on Rock Auto.
Removing the old ones was fairly easy and the replacements went in without any issues. Nice to have properly working brakes that don't leak.
Here are links to the parts -
MC -http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=309140&cc=573&jsn=9 (http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=309140&cc=573&jsn=9)
Booster -http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=259078&cc=555&jsn=8 (http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=259078&cc=555&jsn=8)
(https://www.classicwinnebagos.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fshannonrichardson.com%2F74winnebago%2Fmcbooster.jpg&hash=138ea0bb3354dc22633fb20a5909d24ad5de203c)
Here's one of two examples how chaps have solved there access problems
Here's one of two examples how chaps have solved there access problems
Here's number two of two examples how chaps have solved there access problems
#1 looks factory right down to the perfectly radiused cutout and the recessed nutserts.
I have to do the same on my '71 D22. Are there bleeders on the frame-mounted boosters? The instructions with the new master cylinder say I have to bleed it on the bench before installation and never pump it more than 1 inch. Any comments?
That is the bench bleeding procedure. You need to make lines to go from the ports back into the reservoir. short strokes over and over til you see no more air bubbles. You will have to clamp the master cylinder in a vice, be sure to grab it by the bolting flange and not the body.
As far as the two frame mounted hydrovac boosters (one for front circuit; one for rear circuit), I believe there is a bleeding port on each hydraulic cylinder as shown in this picture. You have to bleed them before you bleed the front calipers or rear wheel cylinders.
(https://www.classicwinnebagos.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fdave78chieftain.com%2FHydrovac%2FHydroVacFig04.JPG&hash=8c11052d73bffffb26b27366bbfbec40421f78df)
THat was a Hydrovac system. 71 should have the Midland booster. Here is you system to that also has a link to the Midland booster page.
http://dave78chieftain.com/M300_69-Early.html (http://dave78chieftain.com/M300_69-Early.html)
(https://www.classicwinnebagos.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fdave78chieftain.com%2FMidlandRoss%2FM300_69-Early.JPG&hash=f81c6108b97e7ce57d01ad508810c6ab3e3e12c5)
(https://www.classicwinnebagos.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fdave78chieftain.com%2FMidlandRoss%2FNBB519241.jpg&hash=a3492d1b3de152bf91061963ba5ced7d266e6704)
Excellent information, gentlemen. Thanks. So, after bench bleeding and mounting the new master cylinder, I want to bleed the boosters, then the RR, LR, RF, and lastly the LF?
re: 1971 D22
Sounds about right :)ThmbUp
I don't think you have to do the bench bleed since you have bleeders on that master cylinder. That is a generic instruction that is put in with every master cylinder since that is the procedure for a normal master cylinder. Normal, more modern cylinders do not have bleeders.
Just to be clear ;)
The Master cylinder that the brake peddle is attached to I would bench bled if replaced or disconnected (no bleeder screw at that assembly)
The slave/master cylinders attached to each booster typically do have bleeder screws so they have to be bled.
Finally the caliper and/or wheel cylinders (depends on configuration) RR. LR, RF, LF.
Requires lots of brake fluid because the main Master Cylinder also supplies the slave/master cylinders at the boosters as well as the remainder of the system.
I have a hydroboost system had to get it rebuilt toon of $150.00 best $ spent so far but then again my RV has all the addons I'm finding out like copper water lines...