Well started pulling the roof off my Winni and figured I would post some pics of what I did. I looked at the few others that have done this and posted pics and pretty much will do it similar. One thing i dont want is a big curve to the roof. I will give it some curve but maybe closer to 1 inch higher in the middle. I want it to look the way it did. I am hoping to find a place that i can get rolled sheet aluminum to skin the roof when its done. I read someone said they did that but still havent found a place to get it local . I build custom cars and trucks...mainly fabricating so this will end up being a show/ camper/ tow rig .
borrowed my cousins tent to park it under while i replace the roof
Rip it off!
By the late 80's Winnebago had started curving the roof, for good reason. It's not just stronger, but it works to shed water or other particles the sky likes to deposit. If it starts to sag a little over the years, it still won't puddle water.
(https://www.classicwinnebagos.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi1303.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fag151%2Fbrian19600%2F014_zpsiu3c4wn9.jpg&hash=a5ca9b2925a27aa246814ef028e71409db205e51)
Many metal suppliers carry or can access rolled aluminum sheet stock, particularly those that deal in non ferrous metals. Companies that service or build cargo trailers or transport trailers should be able to steer you to one in your area.
:)ThmbUp Yeah! I was going to suggest check out the chaps that build of repair transport trailers.
yes when I read about the aluminum thats where they said to check but just havent checked for a place around me yet. I also have a 1995 Winnebago Brave and it has a curved roof so i totally understand why curved is better .Its purely cosmetic to me and I realize im just being anal but i really dont want it to look curved...especially from the front . Ill put some curve but not enough to notice. I hope! finished pulling the rest of the roof off tonight! have 2 spots that i need to repair on the walls, one up on the driverside where the bed frame attaches and on the rear wall on the pass side.... theres 3/4 inch plywood in these spots but its rotted. ill do that first
progress is lookin good
WOW! the progress is looking fantastic. I don't think your being anal I could agree with you more. A small arch will work just fine. :)ThmbUp
Demon:
What part of the country are you in?
1/2 to 1" should work, as you said the idea is just run off. The problem with the flat roof was that with time there would be a bit of sag, and then you have a permanent water problem even if it's not raining (read, a puddle(s). I think someone here that did theirs reduced the arc amount on the last one or two trusses to transition to flat.
thanks! Im having fun! I live in Crystal River Fl.
Pulled the bed down up front today so i could get to that bad wall on the driver side. Pulled off everything over there that was in the way .even the piece up front with the sliding doors. I need some sorta scraper to get the wood off the foam in the wall but pulled the real loose stuff off. Crazy how the foam is perfect even though the wood is trashed!
had a question for anybody that has one of these. Up front where the bed is there are 2 metal tabs on each side bolted to the piece of angle. if you flip them out and lower the bed it keeps it from coming down but is real tight to sleep up there. is this something someone dod for some odd reason or? the steel angle that runs from the roll br to the front is original right?
Somebody has added those I suspect to as a safety feature keep the bed from coming down on there head when their driving. If you turn them in the bed should come down pass the angle iron to make for lots of room to sleep. I just acquired an manned model battleship from the Park Ranger in Crystal River. Right next to the nuclear plant.
Yup, those were added alright. But instead of safety as LJ-TJ noted, I'd suspect it was added to limit the lower drop to facilitate a secure storage area here when under way. A place to stash those extras that are always in the way. I kinda like this idea, and it looks like it'd work quite well, since the bunk could still be fully dropped when needed for roomy sleep accommodations.
Of course safety MAY have been primary here,.... those retaining straps were never too dependable.
Betting you too will be seeking seals for those vent windows. I hate when that happens.
Demon:
You are way at the other end of the country from me. Your best suggestions and mine are to find a semi trailer repair or manufacturing place. Also the places that make box trucks (delivery cargo trucks where they make the box and mount on a chassis) would have a roll.
A google search says there is a Utility (utility meaning the brand) trailer place in central Florida as well as 8-10 more possibilities.
P.S.
Must be nice being able to work outside :)clap
Quote from: CapnDirk on March 19, 2017, 10:52 AM
P.S.
Must be nice being able to work outside :)clap
Pretty soon it will be 105 degrees out so I need to hurry!
peeling the plywood off the foam without messing the foam up is tedious! where its rotted not so much but where its good is taking some time. Oh well! My dad cm by with a chisel and hammer and told me to take the plywood off in layers. Thats working good!
Scraping away! one section of foam cleaned off
been there done that, nasty tedious job, keep up the good work, but it will be finished one day
any ideas on what kinda glue to use to glue the plywood back into the styrofoam ? my dad suggested contact cement but i think it might dissolve the foam
My vote is PL Premium Hm?
it will & does dissolve the foam, don't go there
Another vote for PL premium
Just trying to think how I would spread a nice even coat across the whole piece. I want glue everywhere. I'm afraid it wouldn't be thin enough?
They make a duck bill type of thing to put on a caulk tube used for putting cove base glue down. About three inches wide and the nose has holes about every 3/16 across the nose. That would probably be perfect.
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Roberts-Snozzle-Cove-Base-Adhesive-Cartridge-Spreader-and-Applicator-10-981-25/100080708 (http://www.homedepot.com/p/Roberts-Snozzle-Cove-Base-Adhesive-Cartridge-Spreader-and-Applicator-10-981-25/100080708)
Problem with the nozzle would be cleaning assuming you are using it tomorrow. If you treat it as a throw away, fine. Also, PL is far more viscous than cove base adhesive. You could have trouble with the PL pushing the add on nozzle off the tube.
A notched tile trowel worked well for me on similar work on my boat when using PL Premium. Another :)ThmbUp vote for PL.
One problem with PL is it tends to 'run on' after you release the plunger. Be prepared to spend a minute or two dabbing the run on onto the gluing surface. Regardless it is a good idea to have a piece of cardboard or something to lay the gun on.
OMG!!!! GORRILLA GLUE!!!! PHREAKIN' PERFECT!!!!!
Sorry,... jus a bit excited here!
High solids, low VOC, contact adhesive has usually been the standard,... look for non-flammable stuff. Looks like PL Premium has a big following here,... I believe they also have special foam insulation adhesive too. These jus seem more of an "extruded construction adhesive" to me, rather than a surface laminating adhesive. Epoxy is an option, but what a mess. Thinkin' your lookin' for a surface contact adhesive to fully re-laminate the foam to inner and outer substrates of aluminum and wood.
I have a couple small "laminating" projects myself. Both doors need to be fully disassembled, rebuilt and re-laminated. These being small in surface and non-critical, I had considered jus using a quality rubberized elastomeric coating as an adhesive, sealant, waterproofing, and wood preservative!
BUT,.... I might actually consider Gorilla Glue!!! A moisture cured, expanding, polyurethane, waterproof adhesive, this would to me,... seem perfect!!!! So,... I jus checked it out a bit more, and found that among the "teardrop" builders, this is a favorite for laminating foam to wood, and aluminum skins. Lightweight, permanent waterproof bond, strong and all that. And they noted that jus a little goes a long way,... about a half ounce per square foot or more. "REALLY thin", and with minimal moisture for less foamy stronger bond. Sooooooo,... this might be what I'll be using. Gotta try something new once in a while,... otherwise I might be missin' out on something pretty dang good!
Heard a lot of good reports about their products. I wonder how it would work for vertical and overhead applications?
If I recall correctly Rick1985 had occasion to contact them for information and was very impressed. My memory, however, is not terribly reliable.
Quote from: demon on March 20, 2017, 07:35 PM
any ideas on what kinda glue to use to glue the plywood back into the styrofoam ? my dad suggested contact cement but i think it might dissolve the foam
I would find a laminate flooring supply. (Not Lowes, or HD) and go to there counter sales and talk with them. They should have a water cleanup low VOC adhesive that would glue the new paneling down to ANYTHING. Using trowel application with easy clean up. That should be available in 1 or 5 gallon pails. I had some for laying a reclaimed heartwood Pine flooring to Cement. Worked great.
that sounds like the ticket mate
Finished getting the old wood off that area and started to make a template... need some clamps to hold the cardboard up there so I can finish the template so it will have to wait till tomorrow. here's my thoughts on the glue and I realise im probably overthinking it but that's just how I do things! If I use anything that needs troweled on like that loctite construction adhesive or wood flooring glue, it will be thicker and ill never be able to get the new wood flushed right up against the foam.I've done tile before and there is a space between the floor and the tile. There can not be any space at all between the foam and the new wood . there is no way i can clamp it good enough without tipping the whole thing on its side and spreading even weigh over that whole area and even then I dont think it would be tight to the foam. I am picturing some glue like elmer's wood glue that I can spread all over the foam and the new wood completely and then put them together. I know there are a lot of different Gorilla glues. which one are you thinking? Another thing I was thinking was using fiberglass resin...it would help make the wood water proof too! I rebuilt a boat a while back from the stringers out and i did it with wood like what was there and fiberglass so I kinda know what im doing with that stuff. I know it sticks but im not sure without the fiberglass mat. any thoughts?
I had talked to the people that make Gorilla glue and they do NOT have a glue that is compatible with the foam. They told me at the time what to use but I do not remember now, It was another companies product and that was what really impressed me about Gorilla. They had the good faith to advise against using their product which they knew would not work and even recommended a competitors product that would.I don't know of a resin that would not melt the foam. The foam is pretty fragile stuff.
I used a acrylic brush on type of glue = didn't burn the foam
Nothing wrong with overthinking the gluing of plastics and foams! There's A LOT to consider and think about here,... A LOT!!!! It's the solvents of ketones, acetones, MEK, toluene, xylene, and other that will dissolve most foam plastics.
DO NOT use polyester fiberglass resin! Potent enough to seriously melt and damage any foam and plastics. Epoxy fiberglass resin would be much better, as it lacks many of the damaging solvents of polyesters, and it probably the #1 choice because of it's qualities,.... waterproof, compatibility with substrates of metal and wood, strong, permanent, etc., it's jus a bit messy to work with, and that can be important to most DIY. If you have experience in polyester resin,... you'll find little difference in applying epoxy. It's also #1 in the marine industry of laminates AND enclosed flotation foams!
Elmer's wood glue (white glue) is certainly a usable choice,... except it's not waterproof, and while great on the wood substrate, not so much with the aluminum.
Spray on contact adhesives? Sure,... check a spot first. Some of this stuff is super high in solvents and you'll see it dissolve your foam away. But if it doesn't,.... then it's a choice if it meet other criteria of permanence, waterproof, strength, wood, metal, etc.
Urethane glues (Gorilla glue, etc.), The original "brown" formulation says right on the bottle, "not for use on polyethylene or polypropylene". I think it would be great for urethane foams and probably the rigid styrene foams. Again,.. test a small spot. But it is waterproof, strong, good for wood and aluminum too. I've actually considered urethane foam in the spray cans,... spray it on, spread and let it foam out as much as possible and apply! With hopes that it's doesn't foam or swell any more.
Acrylic/latex adhesives, waterproof and probably good too, if there are no "melting solvents". Strength? Permanence? Application? Metal? Wood? You decide.
And then there's the "construction" adhesives,... and a bunch too. Mostly a problem with spreading them thin enough for that full contact your looking for.
Any plastic including foam plastic can be a pain. And with foams, a HUGE variations here, from soft or rigid urethane foams to common styrene foams of many formulations with vinyl, urethane, neoprene, etc., AND open/closed cell types. But we're "assuming" a strongly styrene based foam given the era of production.
Overthinking??? HECK NO! IMO,.... epoxy costs a lot more than your familiar polyester resins, but it might be your best choice given your experience and all the desirable benefits you seek, will be found of epoxy.
Man this is great! I knew enough to check cause some stuff can melt the foam and other stuff but youve explained it very well! Thank you! I emeailed Gorrilla glue yesterday and they replied with some construction adhesive even though i specified that the wood could not have any space between it and the foam so i sent in another message . I will definitely check out the epoxy resin. Anything particular with that or is there just one type? It sounds perfect for the job and im not really worried about a mess really any way...the whole inside is getting redone anyway.
Epoxy resins "works" much like polyester resins,.... prep and fit, mix 2-part resin/hardener, apply within window of workability. But the similarity pretty much ends there. Epoxy is available in different formulations for various purposes, and polyester is more basic and simplified.
While hardener is often adjusted in polyester for working time, epoxy requires choosing the right hardener and maintain proper proportions for the desired working time.
I've used various epoxy's for a lot of uses INCLUDING quieting down those noisy transformers in old chargers and converters. While you might not choose the West 105 System, their site is loaded with helpful information (http://www.westsystem.com/ss/epoxy-resins-and-hardeners (http://www.westsystem.com/ss/epoxy-resins-and-hardeners)). Explore a bit, there's lots here that will apply to other epoxy's.
If I were to use epoxy in such a manner,... I'd probably choose West Systems 105 resin and 205 hardener for it's low temp workability. Unless I was workin' in the bright sunshine on a hot summer day, then I "might" use the 206 hardener or work faster!
This is why most DYI avoid epoxy,... it's messy and complicated. But it sure works good for tough jobs! Because the epoxy DOES seal wood effectively and is VERY waterproof, I jus maybe might think about it for my door rebuilds,.... but a urethane adhesive would be easier, still messy, but less costly and just easier. Thinkin' that's mostly why the "tear drop" trailer DYI's use Gorilla Glue over epoxy.
I was reading that the Gorrila glue expand 3 times ?? If they are using it on tear drops , does it expand and push the materials apart? I tried looking for any type of camper lamination stuff and could find anything where they said exactly what they were using. That part just had me worried cause I have to clamp the wood up there. I figure ill put a piece of wood on the outside of the wall as well and I can put a lot of clamps on around the widow openings and all across the top but it still will have spaces between the clamps that I'm afraid might bulge if the glue expands as it dries.. Couldn't find an answer to that and was hoping my email to Gorrila glue would come up with and answer but not yet
Well I can vouch for West Systems as that's the product I use when I built my airplane made out of plywood and polyurethane foam. :)ThmbUp
I have always found that when in doubt call the manufacturer and they will tell you the right information regardless of what you hear on the internet. Because we all know, "if it is on the internet it has to be true" :)rotflmao :)rotflmao :)rotflmao :)rotflmao :)rotflmao
Quote from: demon on March 23, 2017, 04:51 AM
I was reading that the Gorrila glue expand 3 times ?? If they are using it on tear drops , does it expand and push the materials apart? I tried looking for any type of camper lamination stuff and could find anything where they said exactly what they were using. That part just had me worried cause I have to clamp the wood up there. I figure ill put a piece of wood on the outside of the wall as well and I can put a lot of clamps on around the widow openings and all across the top but it still will have spaces between the clamps that I'm afraid might bulge if the glue expands as it dries.. Couldn't find an answer to that and was hoping my email to Gorrila glue would come up with and answer but not yet
Gorilla glues reaction is set by moisture and/or humidity,... it may set up in the bottle once opened, depending on that humidity. I'm not certain of the exact chemical reaction here, nor what causes the foaming action or what gasses the foam is of. I would guess it was a hydrogen sorta thing being a hydrocarbon based adhesive and the high level of hydrogen in water relative to air. but that's jus a guess. Could also be CO or CO2, given the chemical compositions here. But it does foam, and "UP TO" 3-4times in volume. A VERY thin application is all that's needed, 3-4 times that would be very little. The pressure from such action is more of "squeeze" out, but large surface areas may be a bit different. The stuff will cure in the bottle or exposed to humidity alone, with little foaming action, so that moisture level is also a factor in the foaming action. Wetting a surface with dampness rather than wetness is all that's really needed, especially in high humidity. It does have a rather long "set" time that will require clamping or some extended contact pressure like anything else. I was surprised to find some who actually mixed a bit of a water/alcohol into the glue to initiate the action and "thin" it further for application. I believe this was to "work out" the excess foaming bubbles while applying, and to uniformly initiate the "set".
For a small project, panel laminate, such as my doors, this may be ideal as I'm laminating on a bench, and much different than laminating in place.
Quote from: LJ-TJ on March 23, 2017, 06:56 AM
Well I can vouch for West Systems as that's the product I use when I built my airplane made out of plywood and polyurethane foam. :)ThmbUp
Tough to beat epoxy! And I too like West Systems products for this kinda use. For a large "in place" laminate job, it would be my preference, still need uniform clamping contact, but set time is shorter as is working time, when compared to urethanes.
Quote from: Rickf1985 on March 23, 2017, 08:53 AM
I have always found that when in doubt call the manufacturer and they will tell you the right information regardless of what you hear on the internet. Because we all know, "if it is on the internet it has to be true" :)rotflmao :)rotflmao :)rotflmao :)rotflmao :)rotflmao
And there's ALWAYS the "manufactures recommendations",.... tried and true! Follow their specifics exactly, and you won't go wrong. But DYI's tend to push that a bit,... and I'm still considering a coating of Ames Maximum-Stretch as a laminating adhesive and waterproof sealant for my doors! Good adhesion, waterproof, and it stretches to resist "delamination" from uneven expansion of substrates by excessive heat, cold, and the jarring vibrations of grandchildren slamming the door closed! D:oH! But of course, this ISN'T what the manufacture intend it for.
And he thought he was overthinking this matter! ;) Not at all!!!
Thanks again for everybody's help! I was thinking today that I have regular fiberglass resin at the shop and i have plenty of foam from the roof that I cut off so why not try a piece. Since what ever type of foam this is , is not really known for sure I figured lets try. At least next tim someone is thinking of this they can see the results first. The foam didnt melt. I coated the foam then coated the wood and clamped them. I also coated the rest of the foam just to be able to see what is happening with the foam. Ill try and rip the wood off tomorrow and see how that goes but it looks good so far. what are our thoughts?
Well there's no better way to find out then a small scale test like this..
I would have expected more "melt" of the foam from the resin volatiles,.... and tomorrow you should know jus how well this will work out. Polyester, like epoxy, sets off by heat of the catalyst too, but the temp should be low enough to have little effect on the foam. I'm sure you've experienced those "hot" mixes. lol.
Tryin to recall how floatation foam is molded into fiberglass layup of watercraft,.... but I can only see compartments into which foam was later installed.
tried to pull the plywood off today and its stuck! extremely well! had to use a chisel in between the wood and foam to get a chunk broke off but even then it ripped the foam up with it so I think this is the ticket!
What brand and type resin did you use?
I'm curious too?
just regular polyester resin from the boat store.
Well, looks suitable. What was the working time of the resin mix?
And the foam,... hard to tell, but does it have some surface damage? That familiar loose flaky aged surface that brushes loose from the more solid base below??? Appears to "break" at the surface depth of such damage, with that loose surface firm in the resin. Jus wondering actually. I would expect a more "chunky" and uneven break from the foam, actually leaving pieces of foam behind rather than jus surface. So I was wondering if the surface "was" aged and damaged from UV or Ozone, or if maybe the resin alters the foam surface and "breaks" it from the base. Certainly looks water resistant,.... throw some boiling water on the remainder and break another chunk off. See if ANY can work into the "breakline" and cause a weakness.
So far, ya, it does look good. Better than squiggly construction adhesive. What do you think??? Is it too "brittle" in your opinion??? Will it "break" or separate under vibration of say the AC or rock-n-roll or moisture or like whatever???
This was a piece of foam from the roof and I really didn't even blow the dust off after I peeled the wood off of the foam and then sanded it. I'm am pretty confident that it will work great. I used to much harder in it cause I didn't have a measuring cup and I just squirted in a bunch! The cup it was in got hot!!! Ill def measure it up when I put the wood in the wall. The rest of that piece of wood that I glued on is stuck insanely good. I can't imagine anything working better. The foam is gonna break at some point of pulling on it no matter what.
AWESOMENESS!!!!
Will probably be fine!
Teryh: The duck bill would be throw away. Did you mean less viscous in reference to pushing of the attachment?
TJ: have not heard West systems in a long time (was doing composite aircraft in the late 80's) studied with Martin Holman, and others.
If you are going to use resin, (which I am against) do a little research on the type of resin to use (polyester/Vinylester) on such aircraft as a Quckie and Long easy which did what you are trying to but not wood over foam.
My reservation on resin in between wood and foam is that it would require close contact/bonding of the wood to foam for the resin to grip. Non uniform contact (hard to do on a wavy surface like the interior of an old motorhome) would result in voids. Unless you can clamp every square inch, it's a setup for failure.
Yea man, the foam is very flat now and I brought home every clamp I own and some nice strait boards to put on the outside to help spread the load of the clamps and keep everything strait. WhatI wanted was something that would stay nice and tight so there was no space between the plywood and the foam. If I used any type of thick construction adhesive it would hold the plywood away from the foam . I think I would even need more clamps to do it that way and I would be really afraid of it pushing tighter where the clamps at and making it look dented from the outside. The resin seams like it will be best. The test piece I did will not come apart without a hammer and chisel and it looks as though it is ripping the foam to do that
Finished making the template of the wall and went to Home Depot to get a piece of 3/4 plywood. Everything they had was warped so I went to Lowes. Not much better. I was hoping when I cut out the piece it would be flatter because it was smaller but nope. I put it up there anyway and when I push the outside up against the wood , the outside follows the wood ao It has to be flat. I have it inside now on the floor with the ends propped up so hopefully it will be better tomorrow. I should have went a few weeks ago and bought the plywood and just laid it flat on the gorund so it would be flat when I needed it....Oh well
new wall piece
nice job
3/4" inch plywood? Don't you think that is kind of thick? Very heavy once you get the whole job done and high up so your center of gravity is going to move up quite a bit. What was originally up there would have been no more than 1/2" or probably 3/8".
No it was 3/4 here. That makes it flush with the rest of the foam. I guess its that thick because the bed is attached to it
Gotcha, Didn't realize that was what came out and yes, it probably is for strength.
well while i let the wood for the front side flatten out i started pulling everything out of the rear .
almost flat!
its a slow go,but your doin a fine job= keeper going
I'm surprised that was 3/4. Is it only that big at the top (where the bed mates)? I ask because I am going to be doing something similar a little later, and the wood at the base of the chairs doesn't seem to be that thick on mine
been there done that & mine was 3/4 inch plywood
Hi Stan,
Was it that size throughout? Because mine looks like Luan
it is 3/4 up there. that brings it out even with the foam and then luan wood is over all of it so where your looking it might just be the luan wood over the foam. look closely at the pics and you can see the different levels of foam in this area. Im thinking te 3/4 is there cause this is where the bed attaches
yep, same with mine exactly
Thanks guys :)ThmbUp
Good news in the rear! The section of wood that I need to replace before the roof can go on is only this strip across the top about 4" high. Hopefully I can find a straighter board for this!
First piece of wood in !!! finally! fiberglass resin all over the board and i brushed it on the aluminum on the winni so i wouldnt miss a spot. put a board across the back so the clamps wouldnt mar that fine finish! plus to even out the pressure of the clamps. happy day!
Did you ever notice that you just NEVER seem to have enough clamps? N:( :D
Haha yes! Grabbed every clamp I had!
well finally gave up trying to straighten out the 3/4 plywood for front wall .I tried everything. Just bought a nice strait piece of good plywood from a cabinet maker by me. Perfect! of course i didnt have enough resin to put it up so that will have to wait till mon so i cut some of the stringers for the roof. its 1" higher in the middle than the ends. I think it will look perfect like this. i just thru them up there to get an idea how its gonna go
are your stringers cut from 2x2 or from 2x4 ? lookin good
I actually used 2x6 because they where the strategy boards they had. I was able to cut 2 out of each one. Thanks!
Koo-doe's to yeah mate, your doing a cracker jack of a job. Looking good. Well done. :)ThmbUp
strategy boards ?
I think maybe "straight edgy" or straight-est?
oops! yea i ment straitest boards and even these are not great. kinda bummed about it
Got the driver side wall board installed! all covered in fiberglass resin so should last a life time. Looks great! The roof trusses or whatever you want to call them are another story. I bought 2x6s because they were the straightest pieces of wood they had and figured i could cut 2 out of each one. so thats what i did but after i cut them the bowed all different. the bottom side that needs to be straight bowes down. Thats not gona work !. Ive wetted them down and placed a piece of wood thru the center with parking stones on both ends to bow them .I would be ok if the headliner was bowed up a little but it cant hang down. Any advice ?? I should have just built all this out of metal. Im a metal fabricator so I wouldn't have had any prob but just figured I can just have fun and do this at home and it would be straightforward....Nope! the wood has been killing me!!
looks good = want to come do mine ? working with wood can be a pain & yes i was wondering if it would be easer to go with metal / easer to bow. but it is the retention to the wall thats got me baffed?
I would not force wood to do anything, It may return to where it was.
My last roof joists.....
For each one, glued and clamped 2 1X3 (or 1X4) together of clear pine (or spruce) I get the pine at the local Lowes.
Cut to width needed and lay it down.
Tap a finish nail in 1/8 in and up from the bottom outside corner of assembly.
Mark centerline on assembly.
Use a sufficiently wide (wider than the assembly) piece of soft flatbar about i/8 thick and 1 - 1 1/2 I used aluminum placed below the nails and draw upward at the centerline to the desired amount of rise and tap another nail in on the centerline. You can now draw a clean arc with a pencil.
Cut with a jig saw and clean up with a sander.
If your ceiling AND roof are arced you would have to do it twice.
Seal them with your fiberglass resin before installing. The first one can be used as the template for others.
If you use 3/4" marine or exterior plywood and cut your rafter rough shapes out of that and then glue two together to get your 1 1/2" wide and then finish cut you will never have to worry about warped boards and you will have many times the strength of cut down lumber. It will also be much more water and rot resistant.
Quote from: Rickf1985 on May 13, 2017, 04:19 PM
If you use 3/4" marine or exterior plywood and cut your rafter rough shapes out of that and then glue two together to get your 1 1/2" wide and then finish cut you will never have to worry about warped boards and you will have many times the strength of cut down lumber. It will also be much more water and rot resistant.
I have to agree. 3/4" plywood is made of 6 layers of wood. First has the grain going ----, second goes |, third goes----, fourth goes | and so on. The structural strength increases with each grain direction change. Add to that, marine and exterior uses better glue between each layer. Also, marine supposedly has no voids in the core layer lay up.
Plywood or OSB is used in the web section of trusses for it's greater structural strength than lumber when used on edge. A truss's primary strength is achieved from the web.
YOU GUYS ARE AWESOME! think ill just scrap the wood i cut for the trusses. I dont want it returning to what it was . I have plywood left over from the side panel that I can atleast give a try. But what you guys makes perfect sense. The only question I have is about screwing into the edge of the ply wood. Do you think that will be a problem? Also I was thinking about how to make such a large radius perfect. I know thats not necessary but I knew there was a trick. I use aluminum and bow it all the time at the shop and have someone trace the arc while i hold it where i want but this doesnt produce an exact radius. obviously close enough and alot of the times im trying to make compound curves that are just purely esthetic. I found this video online of how to do it. super simple and makes a perfect arc . Kinda cool too! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mYDABCzSRds
I think he was trying to make a scallop more than a radius ;) . In my method those veneers he had would have bee stood up. I think you got that when you described what you do at the shop.
It's not a perfect radius, but you're probably only going to want about 3/4 inch rise (the idea being it's just there for water runoff).
One of my trusses was able to support my 200lbs suspended on cinder blocks. As you can see the clear pine or spruce is not like the shelf stuff.
I went to home depot again and looked at the wood they have there . They have that pine and its warped just as bad as damn near everything they have there. They have poplar that is really straight . I'd have to glue 2 pieces together but i think that would work. I have leftover plywood so ill at least give that a shot.
Check Lowes if you have one. Home Depot is closer to me, but they do not stock it. Lowes does, at least in this area. The poplar would be more expensive, but damn stout.
Here is a pic down the length of an 8 foot 1x2 of the clear pine. The 1x2 is what I'm using to build all the new bedroom cabinetry. VERY straight.
WOW, that is a lot of work!
When I do my slide in I am going to draw the arc using a string and pin method but I plan to leave 16-18" across the top flat so that the A/C and all of the vents are on a flat surface. Being that it will be higher than the sides it will drain just fine.
String and pin method works great. Wood boat builders have used it and variations for years. It can also be adapted to draw an ellipse should you need one. Also quite easy to do.
what exactly is that?
Using an arbitrary width of 90" for the truss and assuming plywood and assuming a 1" arc at center:
- draw a line approx. 2" down along the 96" edge of the plywood.
- mark the center point at 48".
- based on 90", measure two points, one left and one right of center at
45", 90 divided by 2.
- place a pin or finishing nail at each of these points.
- measure up 1" from the center point (1" arc) and place a pin there.
- use a nail, clamp or something below the straight line as a tie off point for the string.
- tie one end of the string to the clamp, route it around the left nail, over the center nail, back to and around the right nail and back to the clamp and tie off fairly taut.
- remove the center nail.
- take your pencil and using the inside of the string as a guide (fairly taut) trace an arc line above your straight line, left nail to right nail. This will give you a perfectly symmetrical arc.
It may sound more difficult than it actually is. I've done it for years with ease. If you want to practice, use some 2" painter's tape above the straight line for your pencil to see how it works. You could try on a piece of scrap wood first, whatever width you happen to have.
For speed and ease when making numerous pieces I would suggest making one template and tracing from it.
If you are interested in an ellipse, it is similar, but not identical.
If it helps I could draw something out for you.
nope i totally get it! thanks
You totally lost me W% ??? I forget the math off the top of my head but starting at the center top of the arc which is 2 1/2" in my case I draw a line straight down the center. Then I go to one side and come down to the 1" mark above the bottom of my rafter and do the same on the other side. Then I just had to do the calculation to figure out the bottom pin location and that calculation escapes me at this moment since I am very tired. A piece of string, a thumb tack and trial and error will work as good as math. Pick a spot on the center line that came down from the top mark and put your tack in and then hook your string to the tack and put a mark on the string at the left side marker and moved it in an arc towards the top. If it meets the top too high then raise your thumb tack and remark the string. Raising the tack will give you a tighter arc. You can go from either way. top to side or side to top, whatever feels more natural to you. Trial and error will get you there and like Terry said, you only need to actually measure one, use that one as a template to cut the rest. Remember, I am going to 2 1/2 because I am going to cut the top straight across so I have a flat top for 18".
Sorry, I did this too quickly.
- based on 90", measure two points, one left and one right of center at
45", 90 divided by 2.
actually it is 90" - 1" (arc) divided by 2 = 44 1/2.
Certainly Rick's method will work for you as will CapnDirk's. I offered mine as I am a firm believer in the language of mathematics.
What works for you is what works for you.
Hopefully you will keep us informed of your progress.
This topic is of great interest to many.
Thank you, demon.
Hope I don't get struck by a thunder bolt for saying "thank you demon"! :)rotflmao :)rotflmao
Rick has made a good point and I would not be surprised if it wasnt stock on some rigs. A flat center section os say 18 inches (would have to accommodate the AC whatever that base gasket needs) and outer slightly straight sloping areas. You would have to be careful that the break between the the flat center area and the outer slope didn't have a vent or something right there
I made the curve on the last boards that im throwing away by welding a couple of pieces of aluminum flat bar together at and angle like he did in that video I posted but he used wood to do it . Im a metal fabricator so i have a lot of metal lying around so thats what i did. Its pretty much the same idea as using string the way you described.
I also have a 1995 Winnebago Brave and it has a curved roof. Its alot more curved than what im doing on the 73 and there are no flat spots for the ac or anything else up there. I don't think that the little amount of curve is even an issue at all.
My wife and son helped me cut strips from the rest of the plywood I have. My plan is to glue one of the nice really good pieces of plywood to one of the pieces I got from Lowes. The plywood has been lying on the ground in the showroom at my shop so its been out of the humidity and is pretty flat now anyway but wont be an issue as long as it stays strait when its standing up now. there will be boards ging between them any way. Thanks for the Great Idea ! I didnt think at all to use the plywood and I already had it! so far so good, it looks really strait. gonna get a router bit to trim the rest after i make the first one. that will save hours!!!
next question , should i glue them together with wood glue? any particular kind? or should I use the fiberglass resin?
Resorcinol MMMMMMmmmmm good! Holds boats and planes together.
http://www.diy-wood-boat.com/Glue.html#PVA (http://www.diy-wood-boat.com/Glue.html#PVA)
I don't know if you stated, but how tall is the roof joist at its thickest point? I'm curious as to how thick the ceiling is on those.
Quote from: CapnDirk on May 16, 2017, 02:58 PM
Resorcinol MMMMMMmmmmm good! Holds boats and planes together.
http://www.diy-wood-boat.com/Glue.html#PVA (http://www.diy-wood-boat.com/Glue.html#PVA)
I don't know if you stated, but how tall is the roof joist at its thickest point? I'm curious as to how thick the ceiling is on those.
well the original was flat and was 1 1/8" thick. mine will be 1 1/8 thick at the edges and 3/4 thicker in the middle ....well thats the plan. that way it has a curve for rain to run off. but i dont want a big curve across the top. I want it to look pretty stock. So in the middle of my roof it will be 1 7/8" thick
Hey, it is yours to do with as you please. There is absolutely no value to be gained in keeping these all original so get creative and you better have pictures! ;)
awesome! Ive wanted to do this for a long time. The Winnebago was free and probably would have ended up crushed anyway but this is gonna be so cool!
There is already a guy on here building a bagged winnie and one who built a totally modern one WITH a slide out out of an old eyebrow. The sky is the limit.
I can see it now, the levers next to the seat aren't going to be the leveling system but rather the suspension and the Winnie will be hopping up and down like a 64 Impala at a Santa Cruise car show. :)clap :)rotflmao
Nice choice on the profile for the joists Demon, I had no idea those roofs were that thin. You'll gain some strength there to.
Just to prove nothing is too far out there.
http://www.classicwinnebagos.com/forum/index.php/topic,11321.0.html
yes love that bagged winni. Mine wont have bags but will have hydraulics but wont be hopping like a 64 Impala! Hydros are so much better than air on so many levels . it will all be a 12 volt system and will ride super smooth. I want to leave the outside pretty much as is. love the colors that it is already. but i have a few things I want to do there. The inside will be totally gutted but im rebuilding a rv interior with shower, bathroom ,generator,etc but want to do some steam punk themes with exposed plumbing and lots of metal ....who knows ! I just need to start ! If everything works out I really want a cummins in it and a 5 speed manual. would make an awesome tow vehicle for my shop! well see.
Might want to consider what to do for a shower. A lot easier to load in a shower stall with the roof open. In fact I think a lot of the manufacturers load in the big stuff like that.
Quote from: demon on May 17, 2017, 08:23 PM
yes love that bagged winni. Mine wont have bags but will have hydraulics but wont be hopping like a 64 Impala! Hydros are so much better than air on so many levels . it will all be a 12 volt system and will ride super smooth. I want to leave the outside pretty much as is. love the colors that it is already. but i have a few things I want to do there. The inside will be totally gutted but im rebuilding a rv interior with shower, bathroom ,generator,etc but want to do some steam punk themes with exposed plumbing and lots of metal ....who knows ! I just need to start ! If everything works out I really want a cummins in it and a 5 speed manual. would make an awesome tow vehicle for my shop! well see.
I like it already. The steam punk, eh, but the rest of it, yea.
got the first rafter cut with the curve , glued together , and then used it to router the other boards the same. i only did half of them and then glued them to the ones i didnt trim yet . tomorrow i will just router them down the same and there done. What a pain!!!!!!should have just made it out of metal! So far Ive learned I hate wood! Anyway its looking good! I just picked up an onan generator for 100 bucks tonight. It just popped up for sale. not that im ready for it but thought that was to good of a deal to pass.
lookin good/I hate workin with wood too! :(
Disassembled your tubing bender for weights I see. I am also a metal man but I like to work with wood, don't get burned as often. I wish I had learned more from my brother in law before his untimely death at 54 from lung cancer. He was a master carpenter and cabinet maker. And he was a perfectionist, it had to be perfect or it got done over. I love the look of natural, unpainted wood. Think 40's-50's Chris Craft boats.
yea man ! im a perfectionist to. i think thats why working with all this bowed wood and little imperfections bothers me. it wont be seen but... I have tubing dies from 3/4" all the way to 2" and everything in between so just grabbed them and anything else i could find small and heavy!!
all done with these! already! :D :D . got the wood for the ceiling and some of that poplar that was real strait to screw in for stringers between the rafters. also got more glue and some of that locktite construction adhesive . got the winnebago all cleaned up so i can start putting it in. Also got the generator I bought last night for $100 started up. just hooked a battery up to it and stuck the fuel line into a gas can. Fired right up! Sweet deal!
Get all the information off of the label on that generator before you wipe it off for some reason and realize the info disappeared! Take a picture of it so you always have it. You will need those numbers anytime you need parts.
going up! My Dad came over and helped me get a lot done today. I still need to put the ceiling in so none of this is attached o the winni but we added some strips of the same wood we are using for the ceiling under the edges all the way around to keep it set exactly where it will be when i staple and glue it to the sides. this way we can add boards underneath . trying to do the ceiling first would have been a pain! Well even more of a pain! still have some more pieces to put in between the rafters on both sides so we can attach cabinets up there. Also I've been thinking of making some inside trusses out of metal with holes in them for decoration but would make the roof very strong and it will go with the inside the way I want it. I have to do something with the brace over the drivers area anyway so i can make maybe 2 more so it will have some crazy beams all the same with as the one over the driver but shaped a bit differently and with holes in them and probably weld tubes in between the channel.. Hard to describe whats in my head sometimes. Here are some pics from today
more pics
Added some more boards front to back. trimmed each one to fit perfect than glued and stapled them in. Looks great now. we'll see how strong it is after the glue dries. Then insulation and the ceiling. We are lifting the whole roof to put the ceiling on top of the walls like it was then the roof can get glued and stapled to the walls. the curve on the roof is exactly what I wanted and i didnt need to tapper it to the front and the rear. The front just pushes right down with the small arch and the rear will have the slight curve from the rear but im cool with that
Man, you took the best of all the ideas given and ran them all together into a fantastic job. Well done! I wish everybody would follow advice that well. I don't think I would have put the ceiling under the roof like that though, I want the roof attached directly to the walls but since it is screwed and glued I don't think it will matter.
Very impressive work!
Please keep the photos coming.
Your project will likely become a must view for others who have to tackle the same thing in the future.
Looks good !!
Quote from: Rickf1985 on May 29, 2017, 07:16 PM
Man, you took the best of all the ideas given and ran them all together into a fantastic job. Well done! I wish everybody would follow advice that well. I don't think I would have put the ceiling under the roof like that though, I want the roof attached directly to the walls but since it is screwed and glued I don't think it will matter.
Yea man! I really appreciate everyone's help!Dont know what kind of mess it would be without it! Im a metal fabricator and can build anything out of metal. I build some really cool stuff for cars at my shop but I dont do much with wood. My dad was a carpenter but he hasn't ever messed with a motor home but he had some pretty good ideas too. There are 2 reasons im putting the headliner under the roof and on top of the walls. the first is , it was done like that to begin with and the second is I wanted the rafters and the wood attached between them on the sides to have something besides just the foam to sit on. I figure it will help spread the load across the foam. It will still get glued and stapled to the walls just like it was original . But like you said , it probably doesn't make much difference
Thanks everyone! So what do you guys think for making this water proof ? I really wanted to do one solid piece of aluminum. Im good with metal! the problem is i cant seem to find a piece ...well at least around me. I think my next best option is fiberglass. I rebuilt a 17" center console boat and had to rebuild everything from the inside of the hull up so ive messed with it a bunch on it. But that doesnt make me an expert! I really dont like the idea of a rubber roof. It seems that isnt a permanent deal and I dont want to be messing with it ever! Definalty open to suggestions
Nothing is permanent up there in the sun with stuff poking through it. The rubber is going to last as long as anything if reasonably taken care of and it is also easy to repair if it gets damaged. And starting with a virgin roof it is the best time to put a rubber roof on. Look up some videos on it. There are differing qualities of rubber roofing also, if you go cheap it will only last ten to fifteen years. If you buy quality material it can last 25 plus years. How long do you this the mechanical parts are going to last?
A good outlet for large pieces of aluminum are trailer repair facilitys Or contact Alcoa ! Frank
Insulation up!!
I would put another layer since you still have space there, you can never have too much insulation.
Holy smokes, just saw this post - that's an incredible accomplishment! Very inspired by your progress - keep up the amazing work!
thanks! im just glad to be getting close to finished! as far as adding more insulation , the center of the rafters i made are 1 1/2" and curve down to 3/4". The insulation is 3/4" thick so the only place that i could add any is right in the middle. maybe 4" each side of the center. Im putting a ceiling next and then thee wilbe something else up there...not sure what yet but it will help with that as well.
Ceiling is up! This was a pain! My wife helped me with the first one but I did the rest myself. Glued every piece of wood up on the roof and the edges of the ceiling boards before i put them up but I had to lift the roof with blocks so I could slide the ceiling between the roof and the walls. The ceiling boards where able to bow to get them in to fit between the walls and up and over the edges of the walls but it was awkward by myself. Looks awesome though. the pics dont really look as good as it does . Hopefully Ill get to lift it one more time to put glue between the roof and the walls and then staple it down! Close now!
One last pic of the ceiling
:)ThmbUp :)ThmbUp
is that raw wood or paneling?
Its raw wood...called utility panel??? thats what the tag said above it at the store.I really like the way it looks. im still not sure what the whole interior is gonna be exactly so this might be covered anyway but I might just use some kinda sealer on it...we'll see
That's why I was asking. Looks like it might have some character with a little light stain and sealer.
So this whole roof is not attached to the rest of the unit yet? I hope that does not come back to bite you after all of this hard work! I would have anchored the ridge board to the walls and then the rafters to that and built up from there to tie everything together. As long as you are using something along the lines of PL2000 construction adhesive when you glue it down you should be good. I am old school and just don't trust staples and glue although today's glues are stronger than most nails. Hm?
I was afraid to run strips of wood down the sides on top of the sides then try to attach the rafters to that piece right at the tip of the rafter. Its only 3/4" thick . what we did was set the rafters all the way to the aluminum so its sitting on top of the wall then we used that nice 3/4" plywood and cut pieces to fit between the rafters on top of the wall. then the 1/4" plywood is on top of all that right to the aluminum so that connects everything... everything is glued and stapled. heres a pic where you can see the wood on top of the walls
Roof is glued down and stapled!!! No pics cause it looks just like it did in the last pics. Now to decide what im covering it with.
I went back through all of your posts and I don't see any mention of what kind of stapler you are using? All I can find are the 1/4" crown staples and they are way to narrow, I would love to find what they used when they built these hings but hen finding the staples to go in it could be a problem.
yea i just have a harbor fright air stapler I bought to build my wifes chicken coop. They are narrow staples probably 3/4" long. Your probably right, wider would be better but it will be ok. Is glued down with that construction adhesive you guys talked about in the beginning and also the the roof top whether it ends up being fiberglass or aluminum, will wrap around the sides at the top and get stapled thru the side at the top than the aluminum drip rails get screwed on thru the side wall aluminum and the roof skin. Not likely to will come off!
I have a 7/16" crown stapler I use for sub flooring, fence boards, cement board (tile) flooring, it would work great for this application.
Another thing is a roofing STAPLER. It's what I believe they used for making the cabinets (where they would bridge the joint on a 1X2). 1/2 crown stapler was popular for crating and fencing (of course use non corroding staples on fence).
Ok , I think I found the aluminum to cover the roof but I havent got it yet.Ive been looking online I was thinking of using contact cement to glue it down. Thats what they use on vinyl tops on cars and it holds well. Any thoughts?
Vinyl is flexible, I am not sure you would get the coverage needed on the metal.
on the aluminum roofs I've done, it was not bonded down. It was centered then all the vents, AC, whateva held it down. The front and rear edges got incorporated with front and rear skins or whatever, and the long edges with whatever trim was up there with a slight rollover of the top skin. Most motorhomes you will see a trim piece up there. Mine....well.... they decided to put a glued down quarter round piece of aluminum. We all wound up with leaks.
Aluminum expands and contracts a LOT in the heat and cold so I don't think gluing it down is a good idea. IF the glue did hold then something has to move with the expansion and contraction, that would be the roof structure or the metal buckling. That is probably why that did not glue the factory metal roofs and instead just put molding over the edges, so it had room to move in and out. (and cause leaks W% W% )
Intersting! I went back out and looked at the old metal and it was definatly glued to a thin piece of wood and then the foam and,another piece of wood on the inside. I'm,guessing that's the " thermobond " they are talking about. The walls are done the same. There is no way they are not glued with something
How thick is your metal?
Not sure . Either .032 or .040 but I havent got it yet. Not sure about what was on there either. I didnt measure it
also was thinking if the aluminum was riveted like a tractor trailer and it expanded and contracted you would think it would leak all around the rivets ? The contact cement is rubbery so it would give i would think
Trailers are all aluminum so they expand and contract at about the same rate, you are talking aluminum over insulated wood. I am not saying it will happen, I just know 20 feet of aluminum will grow about an inch in length if I remember correctly. What are you going to have at the edges to cover the edges? You will probably have an overlap molding there so that will keep the sides attached plus any vents and stuff on top plus whatever moldings you have front and rear so I guess the glue will hold with all that other stuff to keep things in place also.
man I hear what your saying but just cant see that happening. The original roof goes around the edge and down the wall about an inch and then stapled then the rain gutter pieces were screwed on to the sides. If it expanded an inch where would it go? it was all glued down. Now im back to thinking fiberglass..
EDPM, The easiest and most user friendly way to go. And since you are starting over a brand new surface it is ideal. You can get different thickness's but it is a lot tougher than most people think it is. Unless you hit it with something sharp it will stand up to most anything. The thin aluminum is not as tough as far as I am concerned. And if it does get cut then repairing it is simple, repairing the aluminum means gooping mastic on there and we all know how that ends.
Fiberglass is alright but you are talking a huge area, Have you figured the cost let alone how are you going to lay up an area that size without having resin hardening issues? I figure a couple gallons of resin? You could have a rubber roof on before you got the first layup done.
Here is a site for glass and supplies and a lot of good info. I am going to save this one myself.
http://www.fiberglasssite.com/fiberglass-videos-1/
Aluminum, and I have worked together in various forms for more years than I will admit. It has one of the highest expansion/contraction factors of any surfacing you are considering.
When one substrate expands/contracts at a factor of .001 and the substrate it is 'bonded to' expands at a factor of .010, (factors are abstract) something has to give. Physics, metallurgy, chemical, weather, temp variations, they all enter and with differing factors.
Not saying it is a huge consideration here, but should be part of your decision.
Should you have a commercial building in your area that is clad with aluminum - fairly common - stand in front of a wall as the sun hits it. You will actually hear 'cracking, popping sounds' as it expands.
As for 'where would it go?'. It will follow the path of least resistance. Should it meet something with greater resistance it will start expanding elsewhere - against your adhesive or whatever lets go first.
Again, take into consideration the amount of new roofing you have removed for vents, AC, etc. Both the reduction in roofing square footage and the various cut outs and that they are variously placed works in your favor.
for now im not putting anything up there until I finish the rest of the Winnebago . then i can figure out exactly where things will go but only plan on having the ac and maybe 2 vents. What I still dont understand is how come it was never a problem from the factory? the aluminum was glued down to 1/8 wood. the aluminum on the roof is flat . the aluminum on the sides has ribs in it so i can see that would help there but the roof was perfectly flat aluminum.
Im definitely not opposed to the rubber roof at all. seems like it would be the easiest. There wouldnt be a problem with putting the roof rack and ladder back up there on top of that would there?
I hate roof racks with a passion, that is about 20 holes in the roof that just do not need to be there. Think about it, are you ever going to use that rack for anything other than looks? And the ladder is no problem as long as it is solidly anchored at other areas on the body so there is no movement at the roof mount points. You would mount it just like mounting something to a boat. Drill your holes and put bedding compound in the holes and under the feet and mount it good and solid and then pour self leveling sealer around the feet. The key is to use quality products and not bottom shelf stuff. And follow the directions of the roofing manufacturer as far as what adhesive to use and what sealers to use on it around the fittings like the ladder. That goes a LONG ways towards making a watertight roof. Mismatched products will sometimes just peel right off.
The roof rack is a must! Basically the whole thing is for looks! I want it to look original from the outside. I probably will put some old 70's stuff up there anyway not to mention I plan on taking this thing everywhere and need the space. Its only 18' . the rack was mounted in the rear of the roof close to the edges and the walls inside so I know it will be nice and stiff there. I was looking a lot at the kits for the rubber roofs and the winni . I think if I go that way I would put 1/8" x1 1/4x1 1/4" aluminum angle over the edge of the roof and the wall. I know it will have a ledge there but I can make a few places for water to drain thru from the top. Plus its not going to be sitting for long anyway. Still not sure though..... I think I just think to hard about this kinda stuff
Well it doesn't matter what the roof material is the more holes you put in it the more potential you have for leaks so just be sure everything is tight, bedded well and the sealed over with compatible sealant for the surface you use. I think angle on the edges is over kill, there are moldings made just for that purpose that are much better suited for the job. They also will not trap water like the angle would, and they would look better and more original.
Alright! I bought the Dicor rubber roof!. no turning back now! Im happy with the decision and thank all of you for helping with that...would have sucked to have done something else and had a unforeseen problem.. This will be easy ,look great ! and ill be done with the roof!! hopefully next weekend.
:)ThmbUp :)ThmbUp :)ThmbUp :)ThmbUp :)ThmbUp
As always, photos are appreciated. :)clap :)clap
Once we can figure out how to do the picture thing after the photobucket meltdown. I have tried the thing that Mark recommended, irfanview, but it took over every picture on my computer and made a real mess of things and took me forever to get off the computer so I never went back to it.
Planned on putting the rubber roof down Sunday but of course it was pouring down raining when I woke up. Yesterday a transformer blew at the shop early in the morn so I said screw it an went home to do it. My dad came over to help. Im happy with it. Wasnt to difficult . I did put aluminum angle over the corners. Its 1/16 thick and im sure its not the greates for draining water of the roof but I think it was necessary to cover the bad metal on the sides toward the top... the angle covered that all up and i dont need to worry about the corners tearing ..plus I think it looks great! Came home today and finished putting some screws in and caulked the top. I have the self leveling caulk but I dont have the no self leveling stuff yet....its on the way. Hope this stuff does self level on the roof! Looks kinda Lumpy now but well see
more pics
Did you round over the edges on the angle that is up against the rubber? The normal movement of the unit will flex and that thick of and angle is not going to flex well with it and it may cut the roof it it is not rounded. The factory molding is pretty thin and flexible and smooth for this reason.
It does look real good.
You are going to find that it would have been much easier to frame out and cut in the vent holes and things like that before putting on the roofing. Then you would have just cut the roofing into the hole and folded it in and done and sealed in one step. I don't see how you can do that now.
I dont know where everything is going yet and Im not really doing the interior next anyway so I just need it sealed up. would be nice to fold the rubber around the holes but im sure ill get it to work regardless
and yes i used a da sander over the whole top with 80 grit and rounded over the edges of the wood before the rubber roof went down
I agree it does look good. Some comments:
Keep in mind that the addition of the angle creates a dam situation. Somewhat minimal, but will provide a degree of standing water. You may want to check it often during the rainy season.
I expect you did caulk the underside of the angle as well as screw holes before fastening screws?
While I am not a fan of 'self levelling' caulk, the visible bead in your photos does not show any evidence of tooling. Proper tooling is critical when caulking as a sealant. I hope the caulking as applied does not add the the dam effect as you will find it very difficult to safely remove any (should you have to) from a rubber roof.
Again, looks good.
Quote from: demon on July 26, 2017, 07:52 PM
and yes i used a da sander over the whole top with 80 grit and rounded over the edges of the wood before the rubber roof went down
I was talking about rounding over the edges of the aluminum angle where it contacts the rubber.
Oh yes those edges are nice and smooth. I was more worried about the jagged edges of the walls in certain spots where it was corroded so the angle covers it all and looks good. I'm sure if I run a branch or something the angle will protect the rubber roof as well. I realize the angle will hold a little water but it will be minimal and I'm hoping to keep it under a carport anyway. With the hydraulic suspension I can tilt one end up or down to help with runoff too. But really I plan on driving the crap out of it so no problem while it's tooling down the road!
You gonna take the carport camping with you? W% :)rotflmao Remember, the fridge has to be level to survive. A new rubber roof will tolerate some water ponding but you don't want to leave it there for weeks.
Won't be sitting that long!
Sorry new here in the new year.. I have a 1973 Dodge tailgate sportsman and the ruthless like a whoop Dee Doo park for dirt bikes it's tags in between trusses which are every 16 inches water pools and lakes and he is a pain in my butt. What did you use and how tall did you make your center arch on your new trusses I have to build new ones to fix this problem and resale my roof ....
All you need is 2" rise.
I have a 1973 Dodge Tioga Sportsman. It has a flat roof that Leaks, it doesn't have any plywood just metal roof, insulation, and ceiling. Can and put plywood up there if so what kind and how thick?
Actually, that was common. Not just for travel trailers, but also for motor homes! Yes, you can put plywood up there. You want it to be lightweight, so you can use 1/4" plywood or luan (if you want a finished look without having to sand the plywood finish and deal with the wood knots in it).
Can I use R-board on my roof instead of plywood?
If you mean rigid sheating, no. Use plywood or OSB. Rigid sheating is the weakest. You want strength.