I bought a 1973 D18 Brave at the end of last summer, sort of on a whim. The previous owner was using it as a "driveable tent" but has said that all the things worked (propane, stove, fridge, water, etc) except the shower when he bought it, but they never used those amenities and I neglected to ask about how to use them so now I'm fumlbling trying to figure out how to get my RV ready for summer use.
I'm trying to understand in general how power works for the RV when the RV is parked. From what I understand the furnace needs power plus propane (I've got a nice thread about getting my furnace working here: http://www.classicwinnebagos.com/forum/index.php/topic,12376.0.html (http://www.classicwinnebagos.com/forum/index.php/topic,12376.0.html) ).
Once I dive into the water heater I imagine it might have a power requirement plus the propane.
Anyway, I'm totally new to using an RV and don't seem to be fully grasping how the power works when the vehicle motor is off. Also, writing things out seems to help me understand so I might be repeating myself a bit here, but please indulge me:
I understand there are three ways to get power to my RV:
1) shore power (city electricity).
2) a generator that came with the RV
3) battery power
I plan to be boon-docking most of the time so options 2 and 3 will be the most interest to me eventually, but for testing purposes while I try to understand how to get an appliance working (the furnace for now) that needs electricity I think hooking up to city electricity is the easiest way to get started.
So with that in mind, how to I:
1) switch to city power
2) test to see if the power is on (plug something into an outlet maybe?)
3) make sure that power is getting to my device that I'm testing (the furnace)
I've included photos of my converter and the "fuse box thingy" (terminology is not my strong point!) for reference. I'll put the battery bay in the next post due to posting limits of 4 images per post.
Scary battery bay.
Well, hello again. :) That isn't as scarey as some we've seen. I need a little time to absorb all the pictures and your questions ma'am.
Hey Kiddo your doing great. The only dumb question around here is the one you don't ask.
Great pictures!!! I wish most of the people would do this when they ask questions. That fuse box is interesting, you have two fuses marked heater, one with no wire. Do you have a volt meter? Remember, once you plug into the shore power you are now going to be working with power that can hurt or kill you. The appliances that you mentioned are all low power/ 12 volt appliances so will be running off of the battery and the converter. Like Mike I am going to take a few and try to find the wiring diagram for that coach so I have a better idea of what I am talking about. Be back in a little bit.
OK, The only diagrams I found were useless so it is by eye. You are going to need some way of checking for power, a meter or test light, do you have either?
It appears that the switches in the boxes are in the right place although I cannot quite see the one on the converter. When you are plugged into shore power you should have 12 volts at the wire coming into the bottom of the fuse panel (strip of fuses). Then check the top of each fuse to see if there is 12 volts at the top of each fuse, they can go bad and still look good. If this all checks out good then it is time to go to each appliance and check to see if you have power at them. You might as well check the heater first since you were just there. If you have power there then bump the thermostat up and the fan should start running. If not then you will have to determine what is wrong, could be a bad ground or backwards wire. Check your interior lights and outlets, when pluged in all of you regular outlets should work in addition to the smaller 12 volt lights that would be only when off grid.
A multi meter is a necessity for working on any electrical stuff, you can get a good meter for 25.00 but I like the better ones for 60-75.00. They are just asier to use wiyh automatic range setting and better features. And a good meter will last you a lifetime.
This might be of help. i??
i?? Maybe.
D:oH!
That is a BIG help! Let me know when you are ready to get back to this Perlgurl. And I am sure Dave will jump in this evening with his great graphics.
I got my RV hooked up to shore power and was able to see that the interior was getting power immediately since the bathroom light was on. I also plugged something into a wall outlet and it worked as well, so that gave me hope.
I then turned on the propane, and turned up the thermostat and the furnace fan started up right away. Pilot light lit and the furnace is blowing nice and warm now.
Now I want to do this while boon-docking so I am looking for help on the aux. battery hookup.
I printed and read through the screenshots that LJ-TJ provided and they were a huge help (of cource the furnace only run on the aux and I don't have that so I was trying to start it on the vehicle battery like a dope!). The 1973 chieftain manual (download) I have been using to get by has just enough differences that it's made this a bit more complicated so having this info was super helpful. Thanks TJ!
I actually re-discovered today I have all the manuals for all the things; I think I recall finding them wen I first got the RV last summer, but they were in rough shape, kind of old, gross and moldy-like, so I sort of forgot about finding them and ignored them!
Now I want to do this while boon-docking so I am looking for help on the aux. battery hookup.
In my testing of the fuses using a Fluke VoltAlert non-contact voltage tester (it's all I've got on hand right now) I got the following results (checks mean it shows power, "X" means no power):
I've seen something at least once where Super Dave (what some of us call him) has posted very good diagrams on your setup. The comp is an air compressor the older coaches used to use air pressure to make the fresh water system work. Many were converted to a modern water pump system in case you can't find that. I'll keep searching the forum for those diagrams.
Rick - TJ - Terry, you guys know which ones I'm talking about.
If those X's mean you have no power at the top of each of those circuits in the fuse box then the fuse is probably blown (or missing as in one or two) since the bottom buss bar should be hot all the way across. A lot of the time the fuse will get corrosion on the contact and just removing it and putting it back in a couple times cleans things up and restores power. If that does not work and there is power at the bottom of the fuse then it is bad. I am not going to comment on the batteries because I know that Dave has a lot more experience on the older systems like yours and will probably know exactly what goes where. I could figure it out but he knows. :D :)ThmbUp
I know the ones but I couldn't find them either, that is why I said to wait for Dave. I am pretty sure on the batteries but he is real sure and has pretty pictures to go with it.
A Fluke! Now this girl is serious. Great tester. Your going to have some real challenges a head. I'm going to open Pandora's box here. Lauren and I do a lot of boon docking and we played around with the RV/Marine batteries and after many dollars and driving the guys here crazy we went with two 6 volt Trojan batteries. If it were me and I had to start over I jump right in pay the extra couple of dollars and buy Trojans right off the bat.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-trojan-T-105-6V-6-Volt-Golf-Cart-Battery-battery-RV-marine-solar-deep-cycle-/301897675702?hash=item464a80f3b6:g:kbwAAOSwUV9WmDmM
http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2050601.m570.l1311.R1.TR3.TRC2.A0.H0.X6+Volt+Trojan+golf+ca.TRS0&_nkw=6+volt+trojan+golf+cart+batteries&_sacat=0
TJ, That post is wide open for misinterpretation! W% D:oH! :)rotflmao :)rotflmao :)rotflmao :)rotflmao :)rotflmao :)rotflmao :)rotflmao :)rotflmao
D:oH! Awwwww WHAT WAS I THINKING D:oH! ???
Quote from: Rickf1985 on April 07, 2016, 06:16 PM
If those X's mean you have no power at the top of each of those circuits in the fuse box then the fuse is probably blown (or missing as in one or two) since the bottom buss bar should be hot all the way across. A lot of the time the fuse will get corrosion on the contact and just removing it and putting it back in a couple times cleans things up and restores power. If that does not work and there is power at the bottom of the fuse then it is bad. I am not going to comment on the batteries because I know that Dave has a lot more experience on the older systems like yours and will probably know exactly what goes where. I could figure it out but he knows. :D :)ThmbUp
"
(checks mean it shows power, "X" means no power)"
Not that is is all unplugged I'll go take them all out and wire brush them and stick them back in and test again with shore power.
I'm still not really sure how the furnace works since one "heater" fuse (the furthest-most left side one, with the wire coming out the top) does not work and the other "heater" fuse (the right side one without the wire) did show voltage (but, no wire? how does the power get to the magical place to make it go without the wire?)
I'm planning on boon-docking for a week in Denali in the Teklanika camground which does not have any RV supplies (no power or water or anything). Per park rules generator use is limited to only a couple hours a day in the morning and evening (for cooking purposes more than anything). Folks stay in this campground in tents and I've been a tent camper for decades, even up here in Alaska, so I can deal with being cold if need be, but it would be nice to be able to turn on the furnace if it dips below 30-40F during our week-long stay.
Rickf1985 mentioned in my furnace thread something about boon-docking and furnace being a big draw on the AUX power. If I have questions about how much propane to expect to use for a week and how long my AUX power will last or what I could do to improve it or recharge it, shoudl I do that here or in a new thread? It's related, but I could see a long discussion going on and on about boon-docking.
And I figure worst comes to worst we use the RV as a driveable tent with use of the stove and furnace during the limited generator-allowed time for our week stay. But it would be nice to be able to be warm in case of snow and / or rain.
Quote from: perlgurl on April 07, 2016, 07:15 PM
"(checks mean it shows power, "X" means no power)"
Not that is is all unplugged I'll go take them all out and wire brush them and stick them back in and test again with shore power.
I'm still not really sure how the furnace works since one "heater" fuse (the furthest-most left side one, with the wire coming out the top) does not work and the other "heater" fuse (the right side one without the wire) did show voltage (but, no wire? how does the power get to the magical place to make it go without the wire?)
My educated guess would be that sometime in the last 43 years someone has re-routed the wire for one reason or another. Is the heater in close enough proximity to the fuse box that if you tug on the heater wire lightly you may see a wire move at the fuse box? If they are not real close do not even try it since you do not what was done. You can leave the heater on and pull the fuses one at a time and see if any of then turn the heater off. Other than that you would have to trace the wire backwards from the heater. If one of the fuses does turn it off then you know what circuit to look at to see where they tied the heater in. You do want it fused so it is a good idea to do some detective work.
Quote from: perlgurl on April 07, 2016, 07:18 PM
I'm planning on boon-docking for a week in Denali in the Teklanika camground which does not have any RV supplies (no power or water or anything). Per park rules generator use is limited to only a couple hours a day in the morning and evening (for cooking purposes more than anything). Folks stay in this campground in tents and I've been a tent camper for decades, even up here in Alaska, so I can deal with being cold if need be, but it would be nice to be able to turn on the furnace if it dips below 30-40F during our week-long stay.
Rickf1985 mentioned in my furnace thread something about boon-docking and furnace being a big draw on the AUX power. If I have questions about how much propane to expect to use for a week and how long my AUX power will last or what I could do to improve it or recharge it, shoudl I do that here or in a new thread? It's related, but I could see a long discussion going on and on about boon-docking.
And I figure worst comes to worst we use the RV as a driveable tent with use of the stove and furnace during the limited generator-allowed time for our week stay. But it would be nice to be able to be warm in case of snow and / or rain.
If you get two thirty lb. tanks then you should be plenty good for the week especially if you are not trying to keep it at 80 degrees inside. Battery power should be talked about on the other thread but just a quick note would be to buy two 6 volt Trojan deep cycle batteries if you have room for them. You should be good to go for power with them for a week again if you are not running the heater full time. If you are a tenter then you already are used to conservation of supplies, this is no different. Sorry, I just realized we are already ON the other thread. :-[ Been bouncing back and forth and lost track.
One other thing to look for is a good charger for the batteries. The one in there if it is original will not be very good for recharging in a short or efficient time. Old style chargers charged at one rate and one rate only and you had to constantly add water to the batteries. New chargers monitor the charge level of the battery and charge in stages. Much batter for the battery and they will not overcharge. If you can only run the generator for a couple hours then a newer charger would be ideal since it would go pretty far towards a full recharge in that period. I have a 45 amp Boondocker but there are several brands out there. Probably the best place to get one is Best Convertor. http://www.bestconverter.com/
Well, shoot. I had typed up a whole message about the battery bay and I seem to have lost it!
I think my AUX battery is missing the positive wire. (see image) I even used the creeper and dared the muddy snow filled driveway to get under the RV to ensure the wire was not someplace I could not see from the door.
Can I just replace this with a regular set of positive and negative battery terminals or if I'm going to go the 6V method, how does that hookup work exactly?
Also, any tips on making that battery drawer slide better? Wd-40 or some white lithium grease on the metal slides maybe? Or a replacement part maybe?
Others here are far more qualified to answer your power questions, so I'll bow to them.
One thing though, as Rick said, your furnace - actually it's the furnace fan - is a very large draw on your battery. And, as I think you are now aware, the furnace will not ignite until the fan comes on. Further, when the ambient heat reaches the set temp the furnace cuts off the propane supply. The fan however keeps running for a couple of minutes to exhaust unburned propane. What you should be aware of is that, should you inadvertently run out of propane while the furnace is on, the fan will continue to run until you manually shut it off. Either by pulling the fuse or, if equipped with a digital thermostat, turning it off. Been there.
As for your manuals, appears you have a good supply. Kudos to the previous owner.
They do make good reading on a cold winter night.
Congratulations on everything you have accomplished so far.
Something does not look right with that wiring, or the picture is misleading. You have the vehicle positive and negative going to the same place unless the negative is behind the solenoid against the wall.
Quote from: Rickf1985 on April 07, 2016, 07:32 PM
My educated guess would be that sometime in the last 43 years someone has re-routed the wire for one reason or another. Is the heater in close enough proximity to the fuse box that if you tug on the heater wire lightly you may see a wire move at the fuse box? If they are not real close do not even try it since you do not what was done. You can leave the heater on and pull the fuses one at a time and see if any of then turn the heater off. Other than that you would have to trace the wire backwards from the heater. If one of the fuses does turn it off then you know what circuit to look at to see where they tied the heater in. You do want it fused so it is a good idea to do some detective work.
This was a great idea! I've removed all the fuses and put them back. The fuses themselves seem to be in fairly good condition and even with my eyeglasses I don't see any reason why they wouldn't work. (Tracing the wire would not work since the furnace is on the other side of the RV from the electrical panel so I image wires have to travel fairly far to get to the thermostat)
I turned the furnace back on and found which fuse controlled the furnace; it is the left-most one that says "heater" (I'm taking notes on all this in a notebook too since my brain is about to explode from trying to understand and remember all this). Apparently I don't know how to use my volt -thing or I wrote things down wrong. I'm going to have my husband check them once he gets home since he tends to do more of the electrical / detail-orientated stuff and I'm better at the mechanical stuff.....
I'm also not in a huge rush; my first trip is not planned until the end of May and I've got a HUGE whitebaord with lists of things to do to get ready, including some scrubbing and prep for comfort which I can do without all of your wonderful help :)
I am not going to be on here much in the next few weeks, I have a ton of stuff to get done on mine also for a trip in the beginning of may but the weather has kept me grounded.
1. You have one of the older systems. TJ's picture is real close to what you have
Be advised the cross connect solenoid (SINGLE/DUAL/MOM switch) in your battery bay picture is NOT shown on this drawing.
(https://www.classicwinnebagos.com/forum/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=12391.0;attach=7768)
2. When we get the batteries straight, please understand that your very old converter has a manual BATT/CONVERTER switch to select between the battery and the converter output for 12VDC distribution. The black box in this picture:
(https://www.classicwinnebagos.com/forum/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=12391.0;attach=7762)
TJ's wiring diagram implies the AUX battery is connected to the coach fuse block. It is not. It connects to the converter so the BATT/CONVERTER select switch works.
You need to pull each 12VDC fuse one at a time to determine which fuse operates which componens (lights, furnace, water compressor, etc.)
I suspect the Elect Toilet is for a Thermo-san system which you may or may not have. Now do not be squimish however a Thermo-san system used the engine exhaust to burn/vaporize your black tank contents while you drove down the road. Not sure I would want to behind someone using that.
Next post is battery connection
(https://www.classicwinnebagos.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi286.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fll120%2FBaileyDave%2FRV%2520Electric%2FDual-Norm-MOM.gif&hash=3e71c51a37bac5f7ad774e487746fd3ba74badbe)
The negative leads from each battery get connected to the chassis frame. They DO NOT get connected to the cross connect solenoid. Only the positive battery leads get connected to the large terminals on the cross connect solenoid.
The cross connect solenoid is controlled by the Single/Dual/Momentary switch (small post on side of the can).
Single position: The solenoid is not energized so the engine alternator only charges the chassis battery.
Dual Position: The solenoid is energized so the engine alternator charges both chassis and coach (AUX) batteries.
MOM (Momentary): If chassis battery is weak or dead, you can hold the switch in the MOM position while starting the engine. It allows the coach (AUX) battery to jump start the engine.
For your setup, the coach loads wire is going to your converter for the BAT/CONV switch selection. I believe I see a auto resetting circuit breaker to the right of the cross connect solenoid. That will most likely be the wire that goes to your converter from the battery. A auto resetting circuit breaker trips on overload then auto resets. Will cycle if you have a short.
Your old style converter will NOT recharge the coach battery. You will either have to drive the vehicle with the single/dual/MOM switch in dual OR you will have to use a external battery charger to recharge the coach battery. While the original generator had a charge circuit on it, it was really to small of an output to really charge the battery fully. That output was only designed to restore the energy used for starting the generator and provide generator running voltage.
Dave, Somewhere further back I suggested she change to a Boondocker or similar charger converter. Thoughts?That way the genny could recharge the house batteries. Reply #23
To Dave's point on the solenoid, there should be no black wires on the large side terminals. Those carry +12v and should be red as the one is.
You show them labeled as negative auxiliary and negative for vehicle in your picture. Those should be red. Maybe someone changed the originals out for welding cable which is not recommended.
Quote from: Rickf1985 on April 07, 2016, 08:51 PM
Dave, Somewhere further back I suggested she change to a Boondocker or similar charger converter. Thoughts?That way the genny could recharge the house batteries. Reply #23
I have no clue what her budget is. I agree that would be a great upgrade in this case.
Quote from: DaveVA78Chieftain on April 07, 2016, 08:45 PM
(https://www.classicwinnebagos.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi286.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fll120%2FBaileyDave%2FRV%2520Electric%2FDual-Norm-MOM.gif&hash=3e71c51a37bac5f7ad774e487746fd3ba74badbe)
Ok, I think I understand the diagram from Dave and if so then I did misidentify the AUX negative on my original photo. I've included these four photos (sorry about the fuzzy first one, but it gets the point across) Battery has red cable for positive that goes to wire nut thingy (solenoid?), black cable seems to attach to frame. There is a second black cable lying in the battery tray, which I thought was negative due to color. However it is also attached to wire nut thingy (solenoid?) so that is positive for the AUX?
And then based on the diagram the negative gets attached to the AUX battery(ies) through a daisy-chained from vehicle battery? I guess that is what I am missing.
I have seen the switch on the dash for the Single/Dual/Momentary and I had to read about that since I had no clue what it was, but this explains it SO MUCH BETTER! Thanks
Quote from: DaveVA78Chieftain on April 07, 2016, 08:26 PM
I suspect the Elect Toilet is for a Thermo-san system which you may or may not have. Now do not be squimish however a Thermo-san system used the engine exhaust to burn/vaporize your black tank contents while you drove down the road. Not sure I would want to behind someone using that.
After figuring out the water, I'm planning to look at this system. This is a couple weeks off most lilkey, but good to know. And I'll be sure to start a new thread if I have issues with it :)
Signing off for the night.
My brain is a bit overloaded from information, but I'd rather have it than not! Also, I made good progress today and I'm well on my way to getting stuff working so once again, THANKS TO EVERYONE!
Yes Joyce to the labels in those pictures above.
Excellent work, For a newbe, On your battery cables don't get confused by the color , All positives + should be red and all negatives should be black - But after all these years they could be any color that was handy when needed . When using 2 6 volts they have to be connected together to make a 12 Volt by connecting a positive to a negative Leaving you with (the same as a 12 volt battery) one positive and one negative terminal There are diagrams of this somewhere on here When you start using the rig you will learn the limits of furnace use wile boondocking Good luck Frank
D:oH! Hey! I don't recall seeing any pictures of your rig. Yeah think when you done fiddle'n around you can get us some pic's of your rig. :D
Just an observation of one of your pictures. That is the battery you are using to start your rig is a Marine grade battery. You might consider changing that out and using it as a house battery (battery to run your 12 volt system) and buy a really good battery for starting your rig. Deep cycle batteries are not designed to be used for starting. It's all good but since you seem to be of the mind set that if a job is worth doing it's worth doing right. D:oH! :D
It appears that everything you need is there short of some batteries and some cables. The way it is set up now I would guess that the vehicle will start but the power will not work in the coach unless you hit the switch for AUX start? Like Frank said you can ignore the wire colors and follow the wires to their source to see what they go to. If it attaches to the frame as the one by the outside of the coach then it is a ground wire. I have found over the years it is hard anymore to get battery cables in the color and length you need sometimes. Another thing a lot of people do not realize is that the p0sitive and negative battery terminals are different sizes. The positive terminal is just a hair bigger and the better cables are sized correctly for positive and negative. TJ, That is a marine starting battery so while no being the best it is not a deep cycle battery. being in Alaska though I would want a good strong automotive starting battery for the chassis battery and two 6 volt for the house batteries. Of coarse we are making these recommendations not knowing what your budget is.
Using 2 6 VDC coach batteries in series is a great option however, make sure you understand the connection differences with that option.
Quote from: DaveVA78Chieftain on April 07, 2016, 09:34 PM
I have no clue what her budget is. I agree that would be a great upgrade in this case.
My budget is flexible, for lack of a better term. I'm willing to pay to get things done right and I'd rather have the best that I can afford, but I'm an independent contractor and work comes and goes, and so does my income. I'm good at prioritizing, saving and planning in order to get the things I want. This more effective converter is on my list, but might be one of the later things I get. I'm sure I'll ask about in in future :)
Quote from: LJ-TJ on April 08, 2016, 07:33 AM
D:oH! Hey! I don't recall seeing any pictures of your rig. Yeah think when you done fiddle'n around you can get us some pic's of your rig. :D
Where should I post photos of my RV? I just took a bunch but don't want to post in the wrong place? General forum? Or Project?
Edit: posted into Projects here: http://www.classicwinnebagos.com/forum/index.php/topic,12394.msg73484.html#msg73484
Quote from: M & J on April 07, 2016, 09:18 PM
To Dave's point on the solenoid, there should be no black wires on the large side terminals. Those carry +12v and should be red as the one is.
You show them labeled as negative auxiliary and negative for vehicle in your picture. Those should be red. Maybe someone changed the originals out for welding cable which is not recommended.
I'm easily confused and the idea of a black wire for positive bothered me so much that I bought a new red wire for the aux (coach) battery, once I get a new one. I also bought a black wire for grounding the aux (coach), but it looks like I need to daisy-chain that to the vehicle battery. I think I'm going to need more help once I actually get a second battery......
Piece of cake kiddo. Got it covered. When your ready we'll walk you through it. :)ThmbUp
Quote from: LJ-TJ on April 08, 2016, 08:18 PM
Piece of cake kiddo. Got it covered. When your ready we'll walk you through it. :)ThmbUp
Ha! Many forms of success today!!
First of all I figured out how to connect the AUX / coach battery!
I also feel like I'm understanding how to work the power in my RV, except for hooking it up to a generator. I've got a Honda generator that came with the RV and I'll try to figure that out, if not, I'll post a new thread about that.
I've also decided to return my two battery cables I got yesterday and instead replace all four cables with new cables (two red positive and two balck negative) that include the battery post connector thing since the old ones are super rusty and the bolts are rusted closed.
You plug the shore power cable cable into the generator
With your existing converter, to recharge the coach batteries while on shore power, you will have to hook up a standard external 12VDC automotive battery charger to the coach batteries to recharge them. 110VAC Power can be either a campsite plug or the generator.
The single/dual/mom switch in dual position allows the engine alternator to charge the coach batteries while driving.
Today I replaced the power cables, added the missing ground and then installed a new battery that is more appropriate for running the vehicle and will use the deep cycle battery that came with the RV for the coach power requirements. I also cleaned and greased the metal drawers slides and now even with two batteries the whole drawer slides so much more easily.
All the new things to make the power work better.
I see in your picture a post for the battery hold down clamps, but no clamps. You do intend to install them, correct?
There is a post here from DRMousseau regarding a crash and the importance of the clamps. I'll try to find it for you.
Unless someone can help me figure out where I might find a clamp I'm thinking I am going to have to fabricate something since the clamp was missing when I bought the RV.
I was thinking I was going to use a heavy duty rubber bungee to secure them to the tray for the short term unless someone had a better idea.....
Here is, I hope, the link I referred to:
http://www.classicwinnebagos.com/forum/index.php/topic,11599.msg66557.html#msg66557
Re the clamps - most of the battery clamp portion that clamps to the top of the battery for any pick up or larger car could be adapted for your needs. Using flat bar and redi-rod, given your obvious and proven abilities, you should be able to make a suitable system.
Reason I brought it up to begin with is safety/fire concerns.
Did I miss it? Does everything now work off 12v after all your work?
Quote from: M & J on April 21, 2016, 09:26 PM
Did I miss it? Does everything now work off 12v after all your work?
I believe everything I _need_ to work off 12V works. That is not saying everything that should work is working, but I can run the interior lights, plus the stove and furnace. I still need to double check the fridge. I'm heading out for an overnight in Denali this weekend (my first!) and I'm sure that on Monday I'll have a list of things I need to fix or give up on!
Congratulations. Enjoy your outing.
We all will be waiting with baited breath in panting anticipation of your return. This is exciting. After all the effort you've put in we're sure all will go well. Can't wait till Monday. Let the adventure begin. ???
ENJOY YOUR TRIP!!!!!
YOU EARNED IT
Quote from: TerryH on April 21, 2016, 08:53 PM
Here is, I hope, the link I referred to:
http://www.classicwinnebagos.com/forum/index.php/topic,11599.msg66557.html#msg66557 (http://www.classicwinnebagos.com/forum/index.php/topic,11599.msg66557.html#msg66557)
Re the clamps - most of the battery clamp portion that clamps to the top of the battery for any pick up or larger car could be adapted for your needs. Using flat bar and redi-rod, given your obvious and proven abilities, you should be able to make a suitable system.
Reason I brought it up to begin with is safety/fire concerns.
This was a really good, albeit long read! And yikes about the guy's accident.
I'm heading out today in search of a clamp for the batteries. I'll update later with a photo what I end up using.
I might need to start a whole new thread on this, but I think I read that some of you folks drive with the propane main valve on and even some pilots on? I had no idea!
I personally am planning on turning OFF ALL THE THINGS (in the coach) while driving since the idea of driving with propane and pilots makes me nervous. Maybe over time and with experience I'll feel better about this, but for now all the things get turned off until I park the RV.
We leave tomorrow morning for our adventure so I might not have an update until I get back. Thanks for all the well wishes. I'm sure I'll have photos to share post-trip!
I don't know of anyone traveling with the propane valve on.
Quote from: Froggy1936 on April 22, 2016, 01:37 PM
I used to drive with the fridge operating on propane. I do not do it any longer , There are major reasons why , If you develop a refrigerator system leak The Hydrogen in the system will cause a fire that will destroy the whole rig (you have seen pictures of this condition) Vehicles along the side of the road totally destroyed ! If you are involved in a rollover The possibility of a battery caused spark or fire is highly possible , No need to add propane to a leaking gasoline fire ! Fuel leaks are common on serious accidents frt or rear ! :'( Turn off propane wile moveing Frank
If you develop a system leak it is more likely to go up in flames when stopped then when the air is moving through there to disperse the hydrogen. It is going to poof at the campsite just as quickly if it leaks there. I don't subscribe to all the hype from the internet. How many have actually gone up in flames compared to how many are out there and running fine for 40 years? maybe 2%? And they have pretty much all been from one batch that was recalled. Other than that it is because the system was abused by not using it correctly. Not saying it should be left on or turned of, just saying not every absorption fridge is going to go up in flames. Not even close. The main reason to turn off the propane is to not have any pilots lit when getting gasoline.
Off topic D:oH!
Driving with propane on: http://www.classicwinnebagos.com/forum/index.php/topic,1847.msg54860.html#msg54860