I bought a 1973 D18 Brave at the end of last summer, sort of on a whim. The previous owner was using it as a "driveable tent" but has said that all the things worked (propane, stove, fridge, water, etc) except the shower when he bought it, but they never used those amenities and I neglected to ask about how to use them so now I'm fumlbling trying to figure out how to get my RV ready for summer use.
I'm trying to understand the furnace. I've got propane hooked up and working with two other applicances so I think my issue is either that I'm missing a valve or something else with the furnace.
I've got the 1973 Cheiftain manual and am using that, but the furnace section (see attached) is incredibly vague. It says under the "Lighting - Manual" , step 3 to "Turn gas on at LP bottle, main valve and pilot valve"
I'm confused by this. The LP bottle is turned on and I can find the pilot vale on the furnace by I'm not sure what the "main valve" is or where it is located.
I also cannot seem to find a name on the furnace. It's older and quite rusty looking on the outside......
I am looking at the forums and using the search to try to figure out what I'm doing wrong, but it's not clear to me yet so suggestions/links to pdfs or youtube videos are appreciated!
Lets try this again. What's the problem? Have you got a picture of the furnace?
Photos of the actual furnace. Second photo has what I believe is the pilot valve. I can get this to turn, but it's really hard and I had to use a leatherman tool.
This is the LP turn on at the bottle in step 3, I believe:
My confusion is in the instructions in step 3 it says turn on the MAIN VALVE. I not understanding where or what that is....
main valve should be the tank valve
Quote from: SLEETH on April 03, 2016, 06:20 PM
main valve should be the tank valve
That's what thought and figured the instructions were just worded poorly.
Darn, that means I have something going on with the furnace since I can't get the pilot to light.
I am not sure about that furnace but the valve you were having trouble with appears to be the main shut off for the gas feed to the furnace, not part of the furnace itself. And in the position shown in the picture the gas is turned off going to the furnace. There should be a furnace control valve somewhere between that valve and the pilot. Follow the copper line from there towards the furnace and see where it goes.
I've traced the copper wire. I first pulled the shelf off the top of from above the furnace (it's in a closet) and was able to see the label on the top. I'm still not entirely sure what type this furnace is (I need to go wipe it down so I can read it better), but the photo shows some directions that might be of help once I clean it off.
Anyway, the copper runs from the unit (second photo), to the valve in the front (thrid photo, valve shown in "on" position) then under the fridge and to an outside access panel where it dead ends with another valve and what appears to be a fixture that should maybe go on a rubber hose (fourth photo).
I'm not sure what to do from here and I can't get the valve to turn so I'm thinking I'm going to put some wd-40 on it before I break it off.
Suggestions? Or can anyone identify the furnace yet?
Any ideas on where this is supposed to go?
Oh, there is the word Suburban on the outside panel where I think the furnace exhaust comes out, so maybe that is the brand name of the furnace!
PLEASE!!!!!!!!!!!
Regardless of what you are doing or trying to do, remember you are working in very close proximity to propane.
Ensure that the propane tank valve is closed before you even think of using any tool made of or containing or contacting steel. Ensure adequate ventilation is maintained.
I realize that this is a learning curve for you, but steel on steel can create a spark you won't see and can have deadly results.
We all want to help you here, not attend your funeral.
Thanks for the concern!
I am very aware of the fact that I'm dealing with flamable and explosive-able (I think I just made that word up). I'm being super careful and keep turning the propane off until I'm ready to light the pilot. I think that is the best thing I can do to be safe.
I did clean off the labels and find better instructions on them, plus most of the model number. One of the differences in instructions between what was printed on the label and what is in the 1973 Cheiftain (I have a 1973 Brave so I thought there might be a discrepancy) is the label said turn on the thermostat to low then try lighting it (the manula said keep it off).
I'm also at a point where I'm not sure I can do much more on my own and may have to break down and either live without heat (I live in Alaska and even in the summer it get chilly in some places I plan to go, so that kind of sucks) or take it to the shop to be looked at. I'm done fussing with it for today though and propane and all valves are off.
Happy to hear you are cautious.
First test for propane leakage - the nose knows.
Ok, If you go to the members area you'll see a title Furnaces Manuals. You can down load the manual for your furnace. It is a suburban and by the look of the Model Number it will be one of the following.NT- 12S NT- 16S NT-20SNT-24SP NT-30SP NT-34SPNT-25K NT-30K NT-35KNT-42T. The last picture with the spade end on it looks like it is in what was once you generator bay and that line if you follow it back underneath will go to your gas tank. It use to supply fuel to your generator. If you smell propane. Take a spritzer bottle with dish soap and water and carefully spray around the different joints and valves leading to the furnace. If you see bubbles then you have a propane leek. Try to tighten the fitting or you may have to replace it. Hope this helps some. Hm?
soap & water is the way to go=the bubbles tell all
In order to light the pilot there is going to be a button or possibly the indicator wheel itself which will have to be held down while lighting the pilot. Once the pilot lights you will have to continue to hold the button for 15 to 20 seconds as the thermocouple heats up sensing the flame. If the line is full of air when you go to light the pilot you will see your match flame blowing around but not lighting, you will have to be persistent, a butane firestarter is good here, no matches to burn out. If there is air in the line it will take a while to purge out. Do NOT hold the button without the lighter in position or gas will build up in there. You will not like walking around without eyebrows when it lights off! If it will not light in a couple of minutes then something is wrong.
:)rotflmao Hehehehehehehe Good points Rick. D:oH!
There is a "pushing with lighting the pilot" button (you can't see it very well in the previous photos since the red cover is gone so it's just metal now, but it's pointed out in this photo) that I've been pushing while trying to light with a butane stick lighter. I've held that thing with the lighter in there for a really long time to no avail. I also don't smell any leaking. I've got a pretty sensitive nose so I don't think it's leaking, in fact I don't think it's getting any propane at all! I'm perplexed by this copper tubing that comes from out of the furnace past the main value to the outside panel that is attached to nothing (attached again here).
I found another manual for the furnace last night and it's didn't help me figure out that copper tubing that goes out to nothing, but I'll check the files to see if it's the same. I'll try the soapy water test later today too.
If I knew what I was doing I'm sure I would be done already, but the learning curve (and fear factor about blowing myself up) is steep on this.
Red button for lighting pilot.
Why does this go nowhere? I think it might be my problem and I'm thinking it is actually supposed to be the source of the fuel, but is is normal to have propane tanks on both sides of the RV?
looks like a water drain of some sorts
That's an automotive radiator drain pet cock on the mystery line.....I doubt anti freeze comes out of it..... :P
Hi, If you open the valve on the line to no where what comes out ? Gasoline or Propane ? If Gasoline it was a fuel line for a Generator. If Propane it was for a hose to an outside grill ! The model no sure looks like NT16 S Are you sure that the missing red button is the one for lighting the pilot ? If so you can use a piece of wood to hold it in (easier on the finger) No light , a possible problem is a plugged pilot flame hole They are very small (caution do not enlarge it) Requires removal and compressed air to open if plugged Best of luck Frank
That was probably a hillbilly add on to hook up a grill to the system, that connection is not safe in a propane system. That is not your problem, it does actually look like it is a water valve! A hint on the other valves in the propane lines, the handle will tell you whether the gas is on or off by the direction it is pointed, it the handle is inline with the tubing then the gas is flowing but if it is turned 90 degrees to the tubing then the gas is off. Picture the handle as an arrow. Make sure all the valves are open.
On edit, I did not see Franks post until after I posted this about the gasoline line to the genny. I was assuming you had traced the line to the propane system. Anyway you know our thoughts on that. As Frank said it may be clogged, Propane spiders, They love the tiny passages in propane systems for some reason. Yes, They are actual spiders but I doubt they are actually called that. :D They do not bite, or at least I have never been bitten and I have had them on me plenty, so you may need to get it apart and cleaned. Those heat exchangers can rust out also so that has to be inspected too, or at best be dang sure you have a new CO detector before using the unit.
It's pretty dirty in there and I'm thinking my next step is to pull the whole thing out, open it and clean it before reassembly. I can clean the pilot flame hole then too.
Wish me luck. And yes, the propane is turned off :)
You people type too fast! If you take the whole unit out then you will have a big opening in the side of the RV and if you have help you can have someone at the propane bottle open and close the bottle and see if you get gas from the line. You will hear it right away as soon as the bottle is opened. If not then you have some detective work to do. If you decide to check it that way be sure the fridge and water heater are off and nobody is smoking. With the door open and the hole in the side the gas will disperse quickly. Every time I get my tank filled I am amazed at the amount of liquid propane that is escaping from the spitter when they are filling the tank.
yep them 80% valves do spit out a lot of liquid
I'll put my money on it being a gas fuel line for your genny. He just came up with a scathingly brilliant idea. Take the gas cap off your fuel tank. Open the valve to no ware and blow in it. If you here bubbles in the gas tank it will answer our questions. D:oH!
Or turn the gas on and open it and see if propane comes out, only if it is in an outdoor compartment. If it does then follow it back to the source and remove that line and cap it with the proper cap, that valve, if on a propane line is dangerous.
Most of those older suburban furnaces can be easily removed. The metal enclosure stays in place. Remove the LP line where it attaches to the actual furnace. Unplug the wires on the side, and remove the screw or screws inside at the bottom next to the heat exchanger that screw into the floor going thru the metal enclosure cabinet. Then they have a hidden screw that goes thru the very dead center of the exhaust outlet opening on the outside of the coach. It secures the furnace exhaust to the outside exhaust cover holding them securly together so there is no leakage at the wall. Then the units interals should slid straight out into the RV.
Thanks so much for these instructions!
I've got the furnace out (although the whole thing came out since the metal frame was not attached to the floor!)
I did smell a touch of propane with I disconnected the copper tubing, (yes, the propane was OFF but I imagine a tiny bit stays in the tubes until it is released. )
I also can't seem to get the furnace out of the metal frame, not matter how much I try. But I've managed to get a lot of dirt and rust out from inside the furnace, used the shop vac to both suck as much dirt out and then blow the rest of the cobwebs out.
I do think my first problem is the pilot hole. I've disconnected it and tried to gently blow through it but nothing is coming out. I'm wondering if I can just replace the part or if I dare trying to clean it.
Also, it seems there is a small motor on the back of the furnace (which is what the wires were for I suppose). Can someone give me the Dummies Guide to how this works? It seems like it is wired to the thermostat, but does the battery on the vehicle need to be on in order for it to work?
Side note: I currently just have one battery in the RV with a master cut off switch in use since something was draining the battery when I don't disconnect it). There is room for a second battery, but the positive wire is missing so I have not got around to hooking a second one up. (wiring is a mess on this thing!)
WOW great looking furnace. I'm going to bow out as there are folks here more versed at this particular furnace. Good luck. Looks like you got a nice furnace to work with. :)ThmbUp
I have FLAME! However it's not actually pumping out heat even with the thermostat cranked way up high and I'm not hearing the motor in the back of the unit turn on so I suspect a wiring/power issue.
But FLAME! I did this. With your help! Thanks!!!
I also found the reset button cover when I cleaned out the furnace, so that's a bonus too.
Congratulations ma'am. RV furnaces have a safety feature that insures the blower fan is running before the main gas valve is opened. It's called a sail switch and moves from the air from the fan. It's backwards from our home gas heaters. Your next step will be to make sure you have 12v going to the furnace then checking for your fan running. Lots of threads on sail switches.
:)clap :)clap :)clap :)clap :)clap :)clap
Make sure you check all the connections with soapy water, disturbing them could have caused a leak that is better found now.
Quote from: M & J on April 05, 2016, 08:34 PM
Congratulations ma'am. RV furnaces have a safety feature that insures the blower fan is running before the main gas valve is opened. It's called a sail switch and moves from the air from the fan. It's backwards from our home gas heaters. Your next step will be to make sure you have 12v going to the furnace then checking for your fan running. Lots of threads on sail switches.
I already started to watch on video on sail switches, neat that I was on the right path without even knowing it!
I hear the thermostat click like it's trying to engage. I've also put the wires back together correctly, I think; I took a photo before disconnecting them, but realized as I was putting them back together that there were two blue wires coming out of the furnace that should connect to a red/blue pair but I didn't mark which blue from furnace was "red" and which was "blue", but I think I've got the right set together at this point.
I'm still learning how to make the RV run on battery and will eventually have to figure out how to hook up the generator, with the "city plug-in" method being the least likely thing for me to use.
I'm done for the day. Propane is off and the RV battery is disconnected. I'll got other stuff to work on tomorrow so I'll try again in a couple days.
Quote from: Rickf1985 on April 05, 2016, 09:58 PM
:)clap :)clap :)clap :)clap :)clap :)clap
Make sure you check all the connections with soapy water, disturbing them could have caused a leak that is better found now.
I plan to do this as part of the final "button up" once I get everything running for sure. :)
Both blue wires do the same thing. So your OK. They're for the wall thermo.
A bit off topic here, but while you are working on your furnace you may want to consider upgrading to a digital thermostat.
Easy to switch over, far more accurate, display high, low and ambient temperatures and you can actually see when the furnace fan is about to cut in prior to fire box ignition.
One reference to them below. There are others here as well.
http://www.classicwinnebagos.com/forum/index.php/topic,9026.msg49094.html#msg49094 (http://www.classicwinnebagos.com/forum/index.php/topic,9026.msg49094.html#msg49094)
Well once your happy with the furnace start a new thread on Batteries and we'll try hand give you a hand hooking them up. Just remember we like pictures. Oh! did you figure out what that extra copper line was for. Some thought a fuel line some though propane? Hm?
Quote from: TerryH on April 05, 2016, 11:34 PM
A bit off topic here, but while you are working on your furnace you may want to consider upgrading to a digital thermostat.
Easy to switch over, far more accurate, display high, low and ambient temperatures and you can actually see when the furnace fan is about to cut in prior to fire box ignition.
One reference to them below. There are others here as well.
http://www.classicwinnebagos.com/forum/index.php/topic,9026.msg49094.html#msg49094 (http://www.classicwinnebagos.com/forum/index.php/topic,9026.msg49094.html#msg49094)
TerryH, thanks, I like this idea very much!
I noticed yesterday that the thermostat appears to be original and since that is over 40 years old, I think upgrading to a new digital one once I ensure the furnace works (don't want to throw another monkey into the mess I'm trying to sort out) is a really great idea. Other stuff to work on today, but I'll plan to get back to it tomorrow.....
Hey Kiddo remember KISS. Stay with the old try and trued. Like you said get everything working first. You can always change it up later. You doing a great job.
Quote from: yellowrecve on April 05, 2016, 10:58 PM
Both blue wires do the same thing. So your OK. They're for the wall thermo.
This is SUPER NICE to hear. One less thing for me to worry about tomorrow when I try to get the blower motor thing to actually work.....
Your propane hoses look original and one is retained with a hose clamp. It would be a real good idea to change them. The Suburban heat exchangers are thin sheet metal. With the age of that furnace, if the exchanger leaks, you will have carbon monoxide coming into living space. At the very least, I would recommend a CO detector.
First of all, thanks to everyone so much for all the tips and encouragement! I'd call this my second project (trying to get a older motorcycle running in an attempt to learn how motorcycles work, since I ride them) and though I'm a bit late at learning mechanical stuff, I'm finding it enjoyable and I can say without a doubt that all your help really makes a big difference in my success rate!
I've being doing a bit more research in preparation for working on this again tomorrow and I'm wondering what the easiest way to ensure I actually have power to the rig?
I think "shore power" (what they call using the plug to city power, right?) would be the easier way to test; then I can look into get the battery and / or generator power working. I've been in a mindset of trying to make it work for boon-docking since that is how I'll be using it more times than not, but maybe that is complicating my attempts to see if the furnace is even getting electricity.
So, maybe I should run an extension cord to the RV and use that coupled with the propane and see what happens for testing the furnace again tomorrow? What do you think?
Yep! Your right. When folks talk of shore power they are talking about regular house to motor home electric.(Extension cord) If you can get a picture of your converter and also your battery bay so we can see what your contending with. Hm? Your doing great kiddo. :)ThmbUp
And, start a new thread on shore power to keep posting guidelines in place.
We had another lady member - moonlitcoyote who was as tenacious as you. She wasn't afraid to raise her hand for help and equally unafraid to tear in to something to get it fixed.
It might help if you download the manual for this suburban pilot model furnace from our member section. It is the 1970 Dyna-Trail NT Series (Installation, operation, service, diagnosis & repair and parts list for NT series 20A-AD, 22A-AD-CS-CDS & 30A-AD-CS-CDS).
It includes parts descriptions as well as sequence of operation.
The flame you got going is the pilot light. The fan has to be running to operate the sail switch then the main gas valve.
Anatomy of an RV Pilot Model Furnace (http://www.classicwinnebagos.com/forum/index.php/topic,2640.msg5111.html#msg5111)
Quote from: M & J on April 06, 2016, 10:14 PM
And, start a new thread on shore power to keep posting guidelines in place.
We had another lady member - moonlitcoyote who was as tenacious as you. She wasn't afraid to raise her hand for help and equally unafraid to tear in to something to get it fixed.
I've started another for power. thread: http://www.classicwinnebagos.com/forum/index.php/topic,12391.msg73332.html#msg73332 (http://www.classicwinnebagos.com/forum/index.php/topic,12391.msg73332.html#msg73332)
:)
Yup. What Dave said.
Quote from: DaveVA78Chieftain on April 06, 2016, 10:33 PM
It might help if you download the manual for this suburban pilot model furnace from our member section. It is the 1970 Dyna-Trail NT Series (Installation, operation, service, diagnosis & repair and parts list for NT series 20A-AD, 22A-AD-CS-CDS & 30A-AD-CS-CDS).
It includes parts descriptions as well as sequence of operation.
The flame you got going is the pilot light. The fan has to be running to operate the sail switch then the main gas valve.
Anatomy of an RV Pilot Model Furnace (http://www.classicwinnebagos.com/forum/index.php/topic,2640.msg5111.html#msg5111)
DaveVA78Chieftain , I was wondering when or if I'd see you post a reply! I've seen / read so many of your replies to other inquiries and you, like so many others here, seem super helpful!
I'd already downloaded the manual from another site (and double checked to be sure it was the same you all offer). I've printed it, skimmed it twice and started highlighting the areas for my furnace model. I'm not sure what it all means, but I'm trying to read it!
I did find another forum with someone with my exact RV and furnace and problem and they described the issue pretty well which is also helpful.
But considering when I started this I was not even sure how the darn thing worked at all, I'm happy that I got the pilot light to work and the furnace itself gets hot but the motor is not turning on which makes me think I'm not doing something that is power-related.
I REALLY appreciate all the help everyone has offered though! It's nice to ask questions and get help (unlike my motorcycle forum, ugh!)
I have been out of town for a couple of weeks and it is now 11pm here. Work day tomorrow. I will check back tomorrow evening. You do seem to be on the right track though.
Dave
Perlgurl, with Dave in your corner, you cannot do better.
If only he knew motorcycles.....................
I have heat blowing from the furnace! YEEHAW!
It was a lack of power. As soon as I plugged the RV into shore power, turned on the propane and then turned on the thermostat before even lighting the furnace I heard the fan kick on.
I need to button everything up real tight which mostly means check my propane lines with soapy water. I also think I want to look into replacing the ducting or at least put a filter on the end where the heat blows into the RV since I have sensitive lungs and don't want dirt or dust or anything else that might be in there blowing into such a small space.
And it looks like once I figure out how to make it run on battery power I won't be freezing when I spend a week in Denali or go out to the motorcycles races my friends race at this year :)
Thanks so much to everyone for their help on this issue!
Next up, how to get the battery power working. I'll be posting on my other thread about power with updates on all my power-related stuff.
Joyce in Fairbanks, Alaska
Congratulations Joyce in Fairbanks. One thing scratched off the list. And thank you for giving us the outcome. Some ask, get help then we never hear how it went.
Most all here gives complete, full answers on what we think or otherwise freely admit we are clueless and defer to another. Nice to see your comment about being better than your bike forum also.
On to the next opportunity.
NOW, or the wet blanket.If you are planning on boondocking for a week be sure the genny is in good running condition and you will be needing more batteries. That heater blower uses a lot of power and will drain one battery in one night. Bring this up in your electrical post if you haven't already. I am just getting back in. W%
Oooh. One more thing ma'am. Now that you've got heat, please be sure you have a working smoke detector and a really good CO monitor. Please please don't go to sleep in it without those.
Well hot digity dog. Congratulations I think most of us have been where you are so can appreciate that stupid grin on your face. Awww not bad for a girl. :)rotflmao Kidding just kidding Well done. :)ThmbUp
And you get to appreciate that wonderful smell of all the crap burning off of the heater from sitting for years.
Quote from: Rickf1985 on April 07, 2016, 06:43 PM
And you get to appreciate that wonderful smell of all the crap burning off of the heater from sitting for years.
OMG. Yes! It stinks so badly! I think I might let it run for a while a home hooked up to the house to clean out that stink.
And yes, I'm planning on the purchase of a RV-specific CO detector and fire extinguisher to leave in the RV before heading out. (I borrowed the one from the kitchen to use in the RV while I was testing).
Quote from: LJ-TJ on April 06, 2016, 11:31 AM
Well once your happy with the furnace start a new thread on Batteries and we'll try hand give you a hand hooking them up. Just remember we like pictures. Oh! did you figure out what that extra copper line was for. Some thought a fuel line some though propane? Hm?
I'm still wondering what that line is for and plan to co-opt my husband to help me trace it since I seem to have failed in that regard. :)
Quote from: brians1969 on April 06, 2016, 08:00 PM
Your propane hoses look original and one is retained with a hose clamp. It would be a real good idea to change them. The Suburban heat exchangers are thin sheet metal. With the age of that furnace, if the exchanger leaks, you will have carbon monoxide coming into living space. At the very least, I would recommend a CO detector.
To be clear, you mean I should replace the hoses that go on the propane tanks to the regular, correct? I still need to buy a couple tanks since the one I'm using is for the BBQ grill so picking up new hoses could be done at the same time.....
Quote from: Rickf1985 on April 07, 2016, 06:06 PM
NOW, or the wet blanket.If you are planning on boondocking for a week be sure the genny is in good running condition and you will be needing more batteries. That heater blower uses a lot of power and will drain one battery in one night. Bring this up in your electrical post if you haven't already. I am just getting back in. W%
I'm not sure what you mean by wet blanket. And I've got questions about the boon-docking power drain I'll add to my other thread.
You probably should also get a new regulator at the same time since the one there is probably original. If you get one that automatically switches over to the other tank when one tank runs out then you do not have to worry about waking up cold. There is a flag marker that show it has changed over and you just flip the valve and close the empty tank. You will probably want to get at least 30# bottles. In very cold weather propane does not deliver enough BTU's to keep the heater running well once the bottle goes below half or so. And those heaters eat a lot of gas.
It means to dampen your enthusiasm, or ruin a party. Make real sure that the sell you have in there is NOT a cracked heat exchanger. I would feel much better if you held off running it till you got the CO detector.
Quote from: Rickf1985 on April 07, 2016, 07:02 PM
It means to dampen your enthusiasm, or ruin a party. Make real sure that the sell you have in there is NOT a cracked heat exchanger. I would feel much better if you held off running it till you got the CO detector.
Oh, THAT kind of wet blanket! I thought you meant I would have to use a real wet blanket to put out the fire on the furnace or something!
Bwhahahaha.....
This valve is a furnace cutoff valve
(https://www.classicwinnebagos.com/forum/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=12376.0;attach=7721)
This main propane "system" valve is on the propane tank.
The main tank hose is connected to the regulator
WARNING
DO NOT CONNECT PROPANE HOSES WITH HOSE CLAMPS. THAT IS NOT LEGAL AND VERY UNSAFE. REPLACE THAT HOSE WITH A STANDARD PROPANE HOSE THAT HAS BRASS FITTINGS ON EACH END LIKE THE HOSE ON THE LEFT SIDE OF THE REGULATOR OUTPUT.
(https://www.classicwinnebagos.com/forum/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=12376.0;attach=7725)
When you have "TWO" propane tanks you want a switching regulator
(https://www.classicwinnebagos.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.adventurerv.net%2Fimagemagic.php%3Fimg%3Dimages%2F172040-MEGR-9984-LP-Regulator-01606557.jpg%26amp%3Bw%3D200%26amp%3Bh%3D275&hash=0857b11c4dc9c04161a08c25af6b6688a5539923)
http://www.adventurerv.net/254-automatic-changeover-propane-regulator-p-8431.html?gclid=Cj0KEQjwipi4BRD7t6zGl6m75IgBEiQAn7CfF31yldoBXrI_OLRXFDHN5M9ed5juL-qJMJ0CRxM3V4kaAie48P8HAQ&utm_campaign=partsfeed_ppc&utm_medium=cpc&utm_source=Froogle (http://www.adventurerv.net/254-automatic-changeover-propane-regulator-p-8431.html?gclid=Cj0KEQjwipi4BRD7t6zGl6m75IgBEiQAn7CfF31yldoBXrI_OLRXFDHN5M9ed5juL-qJMJ0CRxM3V4kaAie48P8HAQ&utm_campaign=partsfeed_ppc&utm_medium=cpc&utm_source=Froogle)
The dual tank selector operates like this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MjqE00P2aPY (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MjqE00P2aPY)
This other pipe is a gasoline line for the generator not a propane line. I can see the generator base plate (floor) in this picture
(https://www.classicwinnebagos.com/forum/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=12376.0;attach=7730)
AWESOME. I was close to understanding!
Ok, the propane lines came that way when I bought the rv; I only have a temp tank hooked up to the left which I'll go disconnect completely and remove the tank until I get new hoses. SAFETY FIRST. :)
I also PROMISE to get new hoses and a dual tank selector switch-over regulator thing. I'll check my local RV shops tomorrow (not a lot up here though so I might need to get mine online.) No more testing anything propane related until I fix that issue.
I see why they call you Super Dave!
Also, regarding the furnace cutoff valve:
Do I need to be opening it and closing it every single time I light or turn off the furnace? I have been doing that, but that vavle is super hard to turn and really hurts my fingers, but I know now that I'm not supposed to use metal pliers on it.....
Once you check for leaks and find none then there is no reason why you cannot leave it on.
Ricks right. It's a matter of preference. LJ and I turn ours off every time after using it just for safety and piece of mind. Not a big deal. Hm?
Turning that valve OFF secures the supply for the pilot light. Pilot light will remain ON if you leave that valve ON. You could secure the main propane tank valve however that would mean you would have to purge all air from the system any time you use propane (a real pain).
BTW - Please note you have a pilot operated water heater. There is no electric power required for a pilot operated water heater.
WARNING - DO NOT LIGHT WATER HEATER WITHOUT IT BEING FULL OF WATER! TO DO SO WILL DAMAGE THE WATER HEATER!
The water heater lighting sequence is similar to the furnace. Instructions are normally on a sticker. If no sticker. post a picture of the propane control valve in it.
BTW - When opening the propane tank valve, do it slowly. There is a safety valve built into the tank that can shut the gas supply OFF if opened to fast and there is a valve open down stream. You have to shut the tank valve OFF, wait 30 seconds then open slowly to reset the safety device. This safety feature is used to shut the supply OFF if your in a vehicle accident that damages the system resulting in a propane leak. The high flow of gas in that case triggers the safety device to shut the gas OFF.
Quote from: DaveVA78Chieftain on April 07, 2016, 08:54 PM
Turning that valve OFF secures the supply for the pilot light. Pilot light will remain ON if you leave that valve ON. You could secure the main propane tank valve however that would mean you would have to purge all air from the system any time you use propane (a real pain).
BTW - Please note you have a pilot operated water heater. There is no electric power required for a pilot operated water heater.
WARNING - DO NOT LIGHT WATER HEATER WITHOUT IT BEING FULL OF WATER! TO DO SO WILL DAMAGE THE WATER HEATER!
The water heater lighting sequence is similar to the furnace. Instructions are normally on a sticker. If no sticker. post a picture of the propane control valve in it.
Thanks for the tip!
I was not even going to try the water heater until I am sure I can purge the water tank and get at least cold water running. That is a task for next week or the week after, but I'm sure there will be loads of questions then too :)
Hope the compressor works. It is no longer made
Quote from: DaveVA78Chieftain on April 07, 2016, 09:02 PM
BTW - When opening the propane tank valve, do it slowly. There is a safety valve built into the tank that can shut the gas supply OFF if opened to fast and there is a valve open down stream. You have to shut the tank valve OFF, wait 30 seconds then open slowly to reset the safety device. This safety feature is used to shut the supply OFF if your in a vehicle accident that damages the system resulting in a propane leak. The high flow of gas in that case triggers the safety device to shut the gas OFF.
Ouch. This hurts my brain to try to digest. Basically it means to go slow when turning the knob on the propane tank, yes?
Yes ma'am.
Shoot to bad you live in Fairbanks I've got a spare of two.
Seriously, this is my last post for today!
Looking for suggestions on propane regulator brands:
http://www.classicwinnebagos.com/forum/index.php/topic,12393.msg73445.html#msg73445 (http://www.classicwinnebagos.com/forum/index.php/topic,12393.msg73445.html#msg73445)
Brief snippet from other thread, basically showing I got new propane connections:
Quote I found a regulator for $60 ..... plus I got a couple new pigtail hoses for just a couple dollars more each than online.
The forum won't let me upload the photo with the items I got, but you can see it in my other thread asking about brand names. I'll post a photo of it once I get it installed this weekend :)
I've installed the new auto switch over regulator and a new hose.
Update: the furnace runs on battery power! I'm not sure how long it will last in terms of days since the converter is an older model that "something abut the recharge something or other" (I need to go back are review the thread about the 45amp converter) to see if I can make that upgrade sooner or later. I'll be testing the longevity of the coach (AUX) battery when I head out to the races with my motorcycle racing friends at the end of May.
Note: yes, I know I should have two hoses on the regulator. I bought two, but after a question about if they have the right terminator (to go into the propane tank), I need to go buy a couple 30lb tanks and double check to be sure I've got the right hoses. If not, I'll return the second one I got, save this one as a "just in case" and buy two more that fit the 30lb tanks. It's all off now and will stay off until I get new tanks.
That tank is set up to use both styles of fittings so they may all be. I have an onboard tank so I have a different setup and don't have to worry about that. Actually what you have are called propane "bottles" and a permanent mounted setup is a "tank".
All portable tanks aka bottles are set up that way-it's how you fill them, from the female threads.
Bill
Not at the local gas(oline) station where I have gotten them filled before. They had to get an adapter to fill the POL style bottles I had and they gave me a hard time about it. Told me they were outdated. I said " no problem, I will go elsewhere", the adapter came out in a hurry! But yes, they were out of date. This place is known for doing anything for money. W% :)rotflmao The propane place I fill my RV at told e that the OPD valves were mandatory after a certain date but I was not aware that they still had the POL threads inside.
See,see you learn something new every day even you Rick. :)rotflmao Sometimes you can teach an old dog a new trick. But now that you mention it. I don't recall ever hearing about them being out dated. I've herd of the bottles being out dated. There's an out date stamp on the bottle where you either have to have the valve replaced or replace the bottle. I know a lot of guys would go to the self serve stations where you exchanged the bottle for another one and would take their old bottles that were out of date and exchange them for on in date. Weren't supose to do that but people were doing it. N:(
And you are teaching us a lesson.
Kudos, Joyce. :)ThmbUp :)ThmbUp
Today I changed out my two lines that come out from the regular and attached them to the brand new 20lb bottles I picked up yesterday. I even used the teflon tape on the fittings!
Not trying to rain on your parade, but read this:
http://www.ehow.com/info_12184157_can-use-teflon-tape-gas-pipe-fittings.html
Teflon tape with gas fittings is ok provided you use the correct tape. No immediate problem using white, but you may want to consider changing it or eliminating it at some point.
We read the package before buying it and it said it was acceptable for propane. I don't mind getting a different kind, but why would the package information be inaccurate? Now I'm confused :(
I am not, in any way, an expert. I was always told white for water, none or yellow for gas. I was told that over time, gas and white are not compatible and that the white Teflon may, over time, deteriorate and may clog burner orfices. Again, from what I've been told, not an immediate problem provided you've done your leak due diligence.
Don't mean to scare you, rather suggest you may want to check a bit further.
I have heard the same except I never heard why. If all it is is clogging orifices then any tape will do that if you had it too far down on the threads when starting the thread. It is not going to blow up, I used the white for years before I heard about the yellow and I heard that is used for gas, did not hear any specification about propane or natural gas so I just use it for both now. If the directions say it is good then I would not worry about it until you talk to someone that works specifically with propane.