The Left Driver side Head Gasket leaking without doubt......Right side not
Question .........Do I replace both just for good measure?? Or is it an if it aint broke don't fix it kinda thing.
If the leaking head is warped and needs machining obviously it increases compression ratio slightly while the other remains unchanged. Am I splitting hairs here or is there a real concern about creating an imbalance in terms of power ???
IMO: replace both gaskets and if one head needs decked do them both.
Thank you
To me, if you're going to the point of removing one head, pull them both and do both gaskets and shaving etc. if required. Majority of the work is getting to the point of pulling the head - why readdress the same problem - other bank - down the road?
My opinion.
Terry
Took your advice........Was quoted $900 plus tax. Sounds reasonable to me.
Your wallet may not agree, but if you are going that far consider changing your timing chain as well. Preventive maintenance.
Quote from: TerryH on November 04, 2015, 10:25 PM
Your wallet may not agree, but if you are going that far consider changing your timing chain as well. Preventive maintenance.
At 66 k ??
If you are that far in the engine, I would also have radiator cleaned, change timing chain, even at 66k there is wear in it.
You guys that are suggesting that he do all the stuff on the front of the engine should keep in mind that a head gasket job does not entail taking anything off of the front of the engine. What you all are suggesting with the radiator and timing chain is a LOT more work added into the job. I would measure the timing chain slack by looking at the distributor as I bar the engine back and forth. I will bet there is next to no play in that chain, surely not enough to warrant tearing down the front of the engine also.
I hate to say it but you have to draw a line on jobs at times. If you do the chain then you might as well do the water pump but hey, you are there what about the fuel pump. Well the emissions pump and power steering pump are right there and off so why not................... Get my point?
And I just noticed that it appears he is not doing this job himself but is having it done. What you are suggesting he do will more than double the repair bill in labor alone.
I appreciate the good intentions of those who advise to basically leave no stone unturned but I also greatly appreciate this latest advice regarding a ceiling at some point.
I found myself wondering yesterday how the heads on or off have anything to do with timing chain access so I googled an image of the 454 Block which answered my curiosity.
Yes I found write ups about how the sprockets are coated with nylon or plastic which can come off causing havoc with Valves, pistons, and push rods but is there really an Epidemic in this regard??
Quotealso have radiator cleaned,
Radiator is brand new by mileage (3k) but old by the 8 years it took to put on the 3k. Coolant changed for piece of mind 6 months ago and flushed out for the heckovit. Do I do it again?.........thanks but I am hesitant there.
Quote from: stopngo on November 04, 2015, 11:57 PM
At 66 k ??
I did mine, it had about 65K. While it did have a little slop in it, It would've went on for quite a while longer I believe.
http://www.classicwinnebagos.com/forum/index.php/topic,9139.msg46728.html#msg46728
Rick, I think the guys were saying since its all open now why not? You know much of the bracketry is mounted to heads and will be gone. Water pump and harmonic balancer and boom. Im surprised no one said water pump also. But I agree with you, unless he was financially planning for that and the guys were saying do it while its easy for preventative measures.
QuoteWater pump and harmonic balancer and boom.
Water pump is actually being replaced (leaking) which I did not mention and is on top of the 900 price I mentioned earlier. Ironically age wise the pump was installed by yours truly in 2004 but mileage wise has only 7 k on it.
Ohhh the dilemma of not using an RV on a daily basis. :'(
Quote from: cncsparky on November 05, 2015, 12:39 PM
I did mine, it had about 65K. While it did have a little slop in it, It would've went on for quite a while longer I believe.
http://www.classicwinnebagos.com/forum/index.php/topic,9139.msg46728.html#msg46728
Do you know the part No?? I see yours is an 88.........mine is 85. I checked RockAuto but am a little uncertain.
I just answered your PM and ironically I gave you the part numbers from Rock Auto. D:oH!
SEALED POWER KT3507S - Stock replacement set $18.93
CLOYES C3024K - Double roller set, My preference. $23.79
Thank you
The
CLOYES C3024K is listed but the only compatible Sealed Power I can find under my 1985 application is KT3171S and alternatively KT3501SA
One more question.......What is the reasoning behind the huge price variation from 15 bucks to over 300?? Surely the 300 one doesn't do the job 20 times as good..........or???
Just another note.......Your Message box is full.
Yeah Rick. Clean out your freakin mailbox. LOL
Mailbox cleaned.
I used 86 as the year since I did not remember what year you had but you got the idea. The super expensive ones you are looking at are for aftermarket roller cams and have a Torrington bearing behind the adjustable cam gear, they also have three or nine position keyways to advance or retard the cam timing. NOT something you need nor would it fit without some work. I like the roller chain since it has a more positive engagement between the sprocket and the chain than does the stock setup, uses just a hair less energy to turn and does not stretch.
Hey! You could go for the gear drive and get that whiny supercharger sound. :D :)rotflmao :)rotflmao
:)ThmbUp Thanks
Sorry, for adding to your list of things to think about, but I didnt see that you already done radiator work or what other to do lists that you have already done.
I have 113k on one unit and i rebuilt the motor for about 1100. but i did most of the work myself. My other unit has just 33k on it and still runs strong, but if i were doing the heads i would still do the front of the motor. I have also got 2 setup of 454 vortec and 4l80e trans that I am going to transplant into them. Just depends on money and what your end goal is.
When doing your heads, make sure that they use the correct head gaskets for your engine block. series vs parallel flow. can make for overheating issues.
Quotemake sure that they use the correct head gaskets for your engine block
They have the VIN #......is that not good enough?
QuoteSeries versus parallel
...............?....sorry
Quote from: stopngo on November 05, 2015, 02:25 PM
Do you know the part No?? I see yours is an 88.........mine is 85. I checked RockAuto but am a little uncertain.
The Cloyes double roller that Rick mentioned is the one I used. Nice part. All '80s 454s should use the same part AFAIK.
Quote from: stopngo on November 05, 2015, 10:08 PM
They have the VIN #......is that not good enough? ...............?....sorry
They can tell by the steam holes in the block as long as they know what they are looking for. Yours is in the middle of the generation so there should be no mistakes.
:)ThmbUp thanks
Do the Head bolts require Re Torqueing after x miles?
No retorqueing needed on modern engines.
I like what I am hearing because the minute its fixed Im headed south and am not enthused at the prospect of taking off Valve Covers at the second rest area I hit and get out the torque wrench.
I take it that 1985 454 is considered modern. :)ThmbUp
2 or 3 step torque sequence when tightening them they are good.
About the only thing you'll want to do is change the oil quicker. About 500 miles you think Rick? Gives the oil and filter time to flush out any poo that might have gotten loose.
Quoteany poo that might have gotten loose.
:)ThmbUp.............Good thought and quite accurate ............Especially due to the fact the intake was leaking as well.
I slipped the mechanic working on it a $50 today and told him to enjoy his weekend. I pay the company whatever the agreement + unforeseen without argument but a little cash directly into the pocket of the brains behind the repair without any publicity does wonders. It felt good to see the smile on his face.
A "pat on the back" goes a loooonnng way, regardless of how it is done.
Slipping him the 50 is a great move - even more so if you are very happy with him.
That's cool dropping some cash on mechanic working on your rig....People should do that more often.
I generally try to grease the machinery before the work begins.
It also lets them know that should I need to come back to them over the repair issue that I am not there to get something for nothing. My philosophy......Never spend money needlessly..........Save where you can........but never save by squeezing another.
The Payment for the service is one thing...........Then comes the appreciation. Or the other way around.
Working on a motorhome engine is not easy no matter how you approach it. That little extra lets him know that you feel his pain.
Quote from: M & J on November 03, 2015, 05:58 PMIMO: replace both gaskets and if one head needs decked do them both.
What head gasket is used. Just any one from say a truck? Like a c30? I can do all the work. Just am being told it is a special gasket? But I can't find and info. My RV runs only has smoke coming out tail pipe. I have to move it every 3 days here in the city I live in.
Quote from: Donduncan on January 22, 2023, 05:48 PMQuote from: M & J on November 03, 2015, 05:58 PMIMO: replace both gaskets and if one head needs decked do them both.
What head gasket is used. Just any one from say a truck? Like a c30? I can do all the work. Just am being told it is a special gasket? But I can't find and info. My RV runs only has smoke coming out tail pipe. I have to move it every 3 days here in the city I live in.
Just a thought here. Most smoking tail pipes are generally caused by oil consumption...
head gasket leaks those are water leaks.
Oil leaks burn bluish grey.
Water leaks burn/steam whitish/grey.
More than probably you have a oil leak, valve stem seals. Actually after 20 minutes of running the engine getting it hot the oil burning/smoke should subside. Does your engine continue to burn oil once it been running for say 15 minutes? If so Valve seals are highly suspected.
Below is a video of this type of fix.
https://youtu.be/m9ZO2ofTufY
Quote from: stopngo on November 04, 2015, 08:34 PMTook your advice........Was quoted $900 plus tax. Sounds reasonable to me.
What head gasket is used? I have steam and water dripping from my tail pipe??? Please and thank you