Sent: 1/12/2005 8:07 AM
Does anybody know what it takes to convert over to front disc brakes?
Smurfbago is a '72 and has the front drums. But in looking at it, it seems the spindles come off independently of the kingpins. Can I just swap these over to later model ('74-up) discs/spindles and go with a disc master cylinder and proportioning valve?
I know where I can obtain the disc setup and even the axle, I just don't want to swap the whole darn front axle.
It looks in the dodge manual to be the same main axle. ??? I don't have the two next to each other to be reasonably sure...
Tom
Sent: 1/12/2005 12:00 PM
What model chassis is under your 72 ? - I can try to check some of the part numbers in the Dodge MH chassis parts manual to see if they are the same or compatable axels , spindles Ect. . Sea Hag
Sent: 1/12/2005 12:56 PM
Sea Hag,
My winnie is a '72 D20RG with the M300 chassis and a 318-3, front drum brakes with the air filter on the floor (not hydroboost). The Brakes I can get are off a '76 (or 77?) D18RB also with a 318-3 and no hydroboost. The whole axle might not be worth the effort to do the swap, and difficult to transport. Just taking the prop valve, master cylinder and the brakes (tie rods, flex lines,booster too) is what I'm hoping will work.
My drum brake spindle/assembly appears to be held on to the kingpins by 4 bolts. The tie rod ends appear to be the same as the later D18, although I can justify changing them out if necessary, too. What I don't know is if the main axle mounting and length, without the spindles, is the same. I wouldn't want to change the kingpins, for that I'd just swap the whole axle (and hope for good kingpins in the used axle...).
If it's not as eay as it seems, I'll just have to keep adjusting the front drum brakes (ugh!)
Thanks for the help,
Tom
Sent: 1/12/2005 4:15 PM
Why are you going to the trouble to convert the brakes?
The drum brakes should have self adjusters, and even if those don’t work, they should not need adjusting more often than perhaps oncce each 5000 miles. I assume you arent using your motorhome mostly for stop and go errands. If you need to adjust the brakes more often, I suspect the wheel cylinders are sticking, or the brake shoe return springs are broken, or the shoes are binding against something.
When I got my Winny I had to clean up the threads on the adjusters, along with replacing the leaking wheel cylinders. I cleaned up the self adjusters again 6 years after that, and just did it for the third time this summer, 7 years after I did it the second time. I have never had to adjust my brakes - the self adjusters take care of it. I put the new shoes on when I got it in 1991, at 49k miles, and they arent even 1/3 worn yet, maybe only 1/4th. My rear brake shoes are the originals â€" have 96k miles on them, and have at least that much more left in them. I have had to replace the wheel cylinders a second time though, and I had to replace the parking brake shoe and its actuating cable.
And if you do this conversion, I would save the old parts, or would begin pricing out spare rotors and calipers, or both.
Are your front drums 12.12 by 2. or 12 by 3 ?
Sent: 1/12/2005 10:32 PM
When I spoke to Geoff at Alretta last summer, he told me the front drums for the M300 are no longer available and haven't been for about 20 years. They probably can be found NOS on E-bay or somewhere, but they are scarce. If its easier to get the disc brake parts, the swap might be good for long term support, but then again, it will probably take a long time to wear out the drums if the shoes are replaced etc. when needed and they don't need to be resurfaced very often.
John
Sent: 1/13/2005 2:38 AM
Tom, what you want to do is not really a big deal. The spindles are the same part for both style of brakes; the only difference in the spindles themselves is that one of the 4 holes on the mounting plate is tapped.
The easiest way to do this is what you have already been thinking -- simply find a donor chassis with disc brakes and swap them over, spindle for spindle. But if you want to keep your spindles, then the parts swap over perfect -- you just have to tap that one hole on each spindle. I just got done putting new spindles in mine -- I have disc brakes, but the donor axle had drums.
John
About the kingpins (not wanting to change them) -- believe me, you want to at least take them out for inspection. Actually, changing them depends on the amount of wear they show.
It is not really that much more work to change out the kingpins when you get to the stage that you are contemplating -- when you get the brake backing plate off, you are looking at removing 3 more nuts and the kingpin to change them out. Believe me, if I had the assembly taken down that far, I would change them out while I was at it -- unless they are true and show VERY little wear when you get them out. While I had to remove mine to change out the spindle, they showed virtually no wear at all -- I ended up putting them back in after I cleaned and rebuilt the thrust bearings.
John
Sent: 1/14/2005 1:03 AM
I'm taking the plunge, and the whole axle, rotor to rotor, or at least I think I am, unless the winds change too much....
Denison's point is well taken, and he's very right, but what he doesn't know is:
I Hate front drum brakes.
I've had 15 or so cars with front drum brakes, and I'm still wishing one of them would have actually stopped when I asked them too! I'm very familiar with all the hints and kinks to maintain them, but I just can't see living with all that maintenance and upkeep for front drums. especially when it's so easy to change them out. (ok, it's really not easy unless you've done it before....)
Whole axle:
16 lugs, 6 bolts, 3 nuts (leave the drag link on, too) 2 brake lines.
What could possibly make it easier?!!
A 3/4" and 1" drive Breaker bar and socket set.... (yep, those damn lugs and spring u-bolts are darn tight!)
Oh, and the ability to lift about 300 Lbs is pretty much a necessity.... unless you've got a "pick-it-up-and-carry-it-out-for-you-Whatchamacallit", (which I don't!).
Well, I'm off to get an axle.....
(the source of this axle will remain anonymous until I get back, but If you think about it, you'll figure it out....)
Tom
Sent: 1/14/2005 8:52 AM
That sounds like the best way to go . Taking the whole axle . Less time at the donor , and you will be sure you have everything you need . You might want to grab the front rims too , Not sure if the bolt patterns are the same from 72 to 76 haven't had time to look it up yet . From your discription of the donor chassis It sounds like a 76 or 77 M300 They still used the single HydroVac booster on the m300 and went to hydroboost on the Larger chassis .
Good move , I don't like front drums either . Let us know how it goes . Sea Hag
Sent: 1/14/2005 9:41 PM
Got 'em!
I didn't take the whole axle. the spindles are the same, and mine are aleady tapped for the one hole. Fantastic!
Smurfbago's getting Disc Brakes for Valentines day.....
Tom
Sent: 1/14/2005 11:25 PM
SS.......Harbor Freight has 3/4" impact sockets for 29 bucks on sale..reg 39.....the set also includes the Bud wheel nut (square fitting) for the inner wheel removal....They also have very good 1" and 3/4" breaker bars.....none of there tools are expensive....
Timmy
order.harborfreight.com/EasyAsk/harborfreight/results.jsp
2546-1VGA
Pittsburgh
3/4'' SAE DEEP WALL IMPACT SOCKETS $39.99
Sent: 1/16/2005 10:10 AM
Timmy,
Already had them, but Harbor Frieght is SOOOOOO cool. There's actually a store about 40 miles away (near where I work). Fun place to shop for CHEEEEEP tools.
And I don't buy expensive tools, ever. If it does the job, I'll take the $2 Chinese crap tool over a $60 snap-on any day. (now that doesn't mean I don't have Snap-on and craftsman and Mac tools either, I just won't buy new ones!)
My 3/4" and 1" set is by MIT, which I've had good luck with their stuff, and this set. I'd recommend it for anyone, but it wasn't real cheap ($100.00) for metric and standard sockets, ratchets, breaker bar, extensions, adapters and breaker extension/t bar. but that's not all! the 3/4" and 1" extensions have a hole in them to use as short tbars or breaker bars. The damn set in the steel case weighs like 70 lbs... so it's not that "portable", but I can't cant live without it!
Tom
Sent: 6/27/2005 10:25 AM
I thought I'd post a discussion on my brake job and conversion.
I would like everybody to know first off that converting to disc brakes from front drums is fairly easy, however if you are not familiar with Brakes, specifically Dana Axle and Dodge Brakes, I would not suggest you dive into it without careful consideration and education. Keep in mind that your brakes are the only thing between your Winnie and that brick wall, and the safety of your family.
I have done similar conversions before on both Dodge pickup trucks and a few other Motorhomes, with great success.
Brake systems themselves are very simple, whether they are disc/drum or drum/drum combinations. It really doesn't matter how many wheel cylinders you have per brake or whether you use a vacuum booster or Hydrovac sungle and dual boosters. (non-booster equipped brakes are bad news in any Winnie)
So... this is how I did it.....
I found (lucked into it...) single piston disc brakes from a donor chassis (a 1975 D19RB on an RM350 chassis..Bob Weaver's "Donorbago") complete and actually still had a firm pedal!
A few more specifics:
The 1972 Brave M300 (mine) had 12X3" front drum brakes on 8 lug coined hubs. The conversion here that I describe is specific to this brake system. To convert 5 and 6 lug budd type, the process is similar, but the donor vehicle would obviously have to have the same weight axles and wheel types. The single piston Calipers won't work on systems with the Hydrovac boosters or M400's with 4 piston rear brakes.
Also, the larger dual piston calipers and brake parts are MUCH more expensive. Not that even this "cheap" conversion was cheap (about $1000...to date)
here's the process:
Remove the hub/disc assemblies and the adaptor/caliper/dust shield assemblies. Keep ALL hardware, bearings, cups, caps, nuts and bolts...
Remove the master cylinder and booster as a unit (I did this just as a spare, since it's the same as the 1972 original booster....)
Remove the flexible brake lines and brackets that hold them to the frame (these are rare, but more on them later...)
Remove the disc brake propotioning valve (this is important!) (behind the battery box on a '75 D19, not where you expect it...On the '72 it's right next to the starter relay on the left inboard frame rail...)
So, now we have everything we need....except for replacement parts... so a phone call to Geoff at Alretta, and you can get pretty much everything you need.....except those dang-blasted front flex hoses....obsolete and no replacement... what to do?
I did both front and rear brakes at the same time, along with the conversion, so I had a "Hefty-Bonded 3ply" parts bill, but That was because my rear brakes were in pretty sad shape (well, my front drums were shabby too, but getting rid of them altogether is the focus here!)
I'll take some liberty here, and assume that the front drum brakes and backing plates have been removed from the Front axles..
Reassembly.... yeah, it's time for that!
go buy a 9/16"-18 tap.
There are two bolt hole that must be tapped out. One each, right and left.
On the left side, tap out the upper left hole in the spindle backing plate (knuckle assembly)
On the right side, tap out the upper right hole in the spindle backing plate (knuckle assembly)
Attach the dust shield and adapters to the spindle, using the bolts and nuts saved from the donor chassis. The 9/16"-18 short bolt goes in the tapped out hole, and you must use the 1/8" washer from the hardware you saved on this bolt!
Assemble the hub (preferrably with new bearings, races, seals and a new rotor...) onto the spindle.
Attach the caliper mounting adapter to the spindle adapter (two bolts)
Attach the caliper and brake pads to the mounting adapter. (please note that the 4 caliper spring clips are important to put on right. On the larger one, the nubs go up! The little one, the wider bar goes down! (this is a common mistake, and the brakes will chatter, or even dislodge the caliper!)
And there they are.... almost! Well, they look like they'll work.....What? no brake lines?!!
The brake lines exposed!!!!!
The original flexible brake lines can be used, if they are in good condition, if not, then you can't even imagine them into existence. I mean REALLY..they don't exist ANYWHERE. So, what do you do.....? Making the steel brake lines fit the original brackets isn't that hard, but..... there's a better way!!!!
You will notice that the original brake lines enter the frame and are bolted onto a 5/16" brake line, and bolted to the frame with a nut, not a clamp. The later version of brake line had brackets that mounted to the frame, and the steel brake line made a 90° bend and came through the frame....
Well, with a little digging, I found that the Brake lines for a 1975 B250 van (I can supply you a part number) replace the original drum brake line and attach to the caliper correctly, too! And they were reasonable cost, too! The original 5/16" steel line just bolted right in! The length of this line is within 1/16" of the original line, so there is no sag or flexible line issue with suspension or turning clearances. There is a small metal clamp bracket on them that needs to be removed but that's simple enough.
So, I have disc brakes now, right?....
NOT EXACTLY.
The last steps:
Remove the old master cylinder.
Remove the original proportioning block
Install a new master cylinder (don't re-use an old one!)
Install the disc brake proportioning block (you could get a new one of these, but there's really not much to one...)
Bleed your brakes. Now bleed them again tomorrow.
Be prepared to smash your face into the front windshield when you hit the brakes the first time with the discs!
I would like to thank Geoff at Alretta Truck Parts for putting up with my wierd and quirky requests and actually delivering me all the right parts, in record time! Not to mention that he had all this stuff in stock!
I can go into even more details about this, but this turned out to be a fairly long post, so I'll save it for later. Pictures coming folks!
SurelyStoppingTom
Sent: 6/27/2005 11:18 AM
Fabulous description and instructions, Tom!
This would certainly be a worthwhile up-grade for folks with front drum brakes.
- Sob
Sent: 6/27/2005 1:20 PM
WTG! Sounds like a great upgrade.Nothing outranks good brakes in my opinion.
BooBoo
Sent: 6/27/2005 10:38 PM
BRAVO.......
Nothing like gitten' er done.....Great discription....
Looking forward to the pictures..... nothing better than looking at a work of art...... from a master......
Timmy
Sent: 7/26/2005 8:37 AM
update: !!
215 mile trip. up and down mountains, in and out of traffic...105° day....
STOPS ON A DIME! (well it's just a saying...)
NO BRAKE FADE!
WELL WORTH THE EFFORT IT HAS BEEN TO CONVERT.
Tom
HI, well I am new here. My story, I got a clean '73 D20T 318 to fix up with no rv stuff in it and only 68,000 miles. It was used as a job site office and bed for security guard. Then as it goes when ur not looking u find what ur looking for. On craigslist (while searching for parts) I found a D20T 318 116,000 for sale in St Louis from the orginal owner. They drove it to Alaska in summer and Colorado in winter. really nice shape and clean and complete. I flew right out and drove it home. It already has disk brakes, (a upgrade that I wanted to do to the first one). Inbetween the the D20t's I bought a '75 indian m400 D23 for parts. Runs great 440-3 with headders. roof leak that never got taken care of. chassis is clean and good with only 67,000 miles.
I noticed that it has bigger disk brake calipers. I was told (Mike on Goodoldrvs.com) that I could change the complete axel from the 75 (really '74 chassis) to my '73 RM300 D20T. The axel is a bolt on and is also 4" or so widder per side. This would make it more stable for cross winds with a wider track. I thought the twin pistion calipers would be better) (also note that the '75 had 16" wheels that cleared the calipers on it)
Anyway, a lot of info and everybody is probley confused. also all 3 motorhomes have 8 lug wheels. 1st one has new 16" the st louis one and the '75 have 17.5 wheels. (when I bought the '75 the owner kept the 16" chevy wheels and put the orginal 17.5 wheels back on)
That's my background on my question>> what do you guys think of changing the front axle, and would the twin pistions and axle be a good upgrade?
I don't know what the rear brakes are (drums I know) and what master/boosters I have. the '73 r under the driver attached to master cylinder (pain to put fulid in) and the m44 '75 has 2 boosers mid way on the chassis. tha't for ur time and have a great safe day. John
As far as "is upgrading to front disks a good thing to to do?" I think Tom's post 11 above says it all. However:
1. Reread Tom's post 11 above. Especially the "A few more specifics" section. Not sure if your donor stuff is compatible.
2. Review the configuration data in the Dodge MH Service manual to better understand piece part combinations. I have a lot of that info assembled here: http://dave78chieftain.zxq.net/DodgeRBrake.html (http://dave78chieftain.zxq.net/DodgeRBrake.html)
Dave
Thanks, My '73 has single disk brakes, I wanted to know if the 2 pistion system would be a good upgrade.or not really worth the work.
I do not feel it would gain you anything. Your 20' rig does not have the same GVW my 27' M400 has. These single piston caliber units should be more than adequate for your GVW.
Dave
I want to do this but not sure how to start to get a donor. Not many options around here. Do you donor searchers just contact every wrecking yard in the phone book one by one until someone says they have a....? Mine has been changed to or had originally 5 lug but they are 19.5 already. M400 (M375)
Many larger yards have a parts network. If they don't have what you want they can enter the request on the parts search and any yard that has it can ship it.
Quote from: M & J on May 25, 2016, 06:00 PM
Many larger yards have a parts network. If they don't have what you want they can enter the request on the parts search and any yard that has it can ship it.
Thanks. Well, not exactly what I should be asking for. Do you know when there was a option for front disk for a M400 (M375) for 1973? Seems like it wasn't until later, but still not sure what year or what model will fit my earlier year...and with 5 lugs.
I do not recall anyone who did this sort of change out on a M375 chassis.
From the size perspective, that would be the M400 (also known as RM350). It had dual piston disc up front with 13"x3" in the rear.
The M375 was produced until early 1973. It was replaced by the RM350 chassis in late 1973 which was then renamed to M400.
So, you would be treading into new ground.
So are you saying the stock brakes are adequate to not bother with a change to disc since no one else has attempted it?
Unless you are driving this thing full time then drum brakes are just fine unless you plan on overloading them. Keep them adjusted and maintained and they work just as well as discs. Even better if you ever lose power.
Quote from: Jonbbrew on May 27, 2016, 01:27 AM
So are you saying the stock brakes are adequate to not bother with a change to disc since no one else has attempted it?
I do not believe I expressed an opinion either way. I only said I do not recall anyone who had performed this on a M375 chassis so, research around this, determining if parts are interchangeable, and actually performing it would be new ground you would have to invest in.
I have done a great deal of research on this. Jon, you would need to swap the front axle of a 1974 or newer m400 chassis. Technically, you only need from the king pins out, but then you'd also have to re-jigger the steering stabilization on an M375, and it will be a bigger pain to get just those parts. The only parts that can't be bought new are:
Caliper Bracket
Dust Shield
Hub
The cost is high. The only set of the above parts I have been able to locate was close 700 bucks for just those parts, plus shipping. And you still have to buy the calipers, rotors, rims, etc.
I am not saying don't do it, but I'm fighting with myself on it personally. I hate drums, and this has long been one of my two biggest upgrade goals for this rig. At the same time, the expensive in both time and money is much more then I expected.
This is a quick reply as I am currently at work, but if there are specific questions I will do my best to answer them.
I'm the proud owner of a 1973 D-22 (Dodge M375 chassis) and am in the middle of (pretty much all of) the customary fixes involving the chassis. In particular, I'd prefer swapping out in favor of front disc brakes, and read this chain with interest -- thanks to all who contributed. Any ideas on where to find a donor vehicle for the caliper mounting plate, etc.? Comparing brake systems, it appears that the best match to my vehicle (M375) would be front disc brakes from an RM350 or an RM400 in model years ranging 1973-75 or so. As an alternative, is Geoff at Alretta Truck still available to provide these parts?
Thanks for your help, and your patience
I am going to throw in a question here and see if anyone has a real good answer to it.
What exactly is wrong with drum brakes? Keep in mind I am a retired master mechanic so I have worked on both drum and disc brakes extensively on everything from pick up trucks to class 8's.
Hi Rick,
Disc brakes are easier to inspect. Disc brakes take longer to succumb to brake fade. They also don't collect water in the drums. Drums have the advantage of (typically) longer wear, and more friction surface area. The high clamping force of the discs, plus larger calipers can compensate for that advantage.
On the M375, there is also the issue that our parts are more expensive and pain to get right.
I will also fully admit that I have had many bad experiences with drums (both in operation and working on them). So I am somewhat biased against them. ;)
Quote from: Jonbbrew on May 27, 2016, 01:27 AM
So are you saying the stock brakes are adequate to not bother with a change to disc since no one else has attempted it?
definitely adequate, and maybe a lot more trouble than it's worth, but up above there he says they're in now and he's very happy. no brake fade.
I have had more problems with sticking/frozen calipers than with wheel cylinders.
Hi Brian,
I have had the opposite problem. My disc brake vehicles are trouble free, but drums not so much. In fact, tomorrow morning I've got to hammer drums off of my dodge daily driver because the shoes have over extended and stuck. In the past, I've had issues with the locking in the on position, leaking wheel cylinders, etc.
The above being said, if I hadn't gotten the M375 chassis I probably wouldn't bother with it. There are so many pain in the neck issues with that chassis related to the brakes that I'd like to get away from it, and I'm sentimentally attached to my coach.
Quote from: khantroll on February 17, 2017, 09:05 PM
Hi Brian,
I have had the opposite problem. My disc brake vehicles are trouble free, but drums not so much. In fact, tomorrow morning I've got to hammer drums off of my dodge daily driver because the shoes have over extended and stuck. In the past, I've had issues with the locking in the on position, leaking wheel cylinders, etc.
The above being said, if I hadn't gotten the M375 chassis I probably wouldn't bother with it. There are so many pain in the neck issues with that chassis related to the brakes that I'd like to get away from it, and I'm sentimentally attached to my coach.
Ok, There is a good example of why you do not like drums. First off, you should never have to hammer them off. Back off the adjustment and then the drums will come right off. But in any case the problem here is that the drums were not turned as they needed to be at the last brake change. When drum brakes are maintained properly and serviced regularly there are no problems. If the brakes are fading there are a couple things going on, one is that you went into a hill too fast and are riding the brakes and another may be related to what you are experiencing with your drums. They may be worn past the usable limit and at that point they will fade quickly. Also is the fading due to the drum brakes or the fluid boiling? Old fluid will boil pretty quick and even quicker in disc brakes.
I am not using you as an example, just what you presented so that it makes it easier for others to see what I am saying. Yes, drum brakes are much more labor intensive to work on but they are every bit as effective as disc brakes. As far as stopping power it takes a lot more hydraulic pressure to stop disc brakes. Drum brakes are self applying. If you lose power to the power brakes I can assure you that you will wish you had drums every time. Water on the shoes is only an issues when you run in water deep enough to get it there. That is not often for most people and if you apply the brakes lightly for a half mile or so they dry off very quick. Pads get wet also, it is only because of the extreme pressure that they dry faster.
My only point here is that it is not really worth the money to try to convert to disc brakes unless the parts are readily available. If you have to spend thousands of dollars and end up with a vehicle that is next to impossible to get parts for on the road it simply was not worth it.
I mostly agree with Rick. Our classic VW has drums and there are plenty of aftermarket disc kits for it. But I put in a rebuilt OG master cylinder and wheel cylinders, cleaned the springs and shoe hardware, replaced the fluid, bled and adjusted the shoes. Stops on a dime with no fade.
I wanted to retain the originality of the car and didnt want to spend $1000 on a conversion kit. Before anyone says theres no comparison, the systems are proportional to the weight and size. Once set its very easy to maintain and no hard to find parts.
Our woods buggy does have discs but its in mud, water and are abused and self cleaning and drying are a must off road.
My thought is if its not broke dont fix it.
Hi Rick,
I mostly agree with you. On my dodge, the issue is that they are over extended to the point that you cannot reach the adjuster to retract them. I have seen this happen in both situations in which the brakes were used way past their service life, and I have seen it happen when the adjusters have failed. I'll be perfectly honest, my current situation is probably the former. Either way .. it's hammer time, and I will say that most people I know who put a lot o miles on a non-fleet vehicle with disc drums wind up banging them off at some point.
Here is the problem with the M375 though: repairing the drum system will cost nearly as much as the disc conversion, and there are two other benefits to switching to disc brakes: better parts availability, and no more budd rims. I am also much more comfortable working on the disc brake systems. The parts to the disc brake system are available from most parts houses, where as the M375 drum parts are a royal pain. You more or less have to find a NAPA, and the part numbers may not match (as was recently discovered by another user). And the drums and boosters are only handled by two companies (who are kind of expensive).
As for losing power, I can't say I've ever had that issue in a vehicle equipped with power drum brakes.
I have a m500 chassis 27' Winne. I have completely renovated her, so some weight was added. I am also thinking of changing the axles with modernized axles from a larger truck. Has anyone ever done this? If so, what did you use?
Thanks, Curt.
Any1?
I would suggest keeping an eye on this thread, He seems to have done a lot of research between himself and Dave.
http://www.classicwinnebagos.com/forum/index.php/topic,13764.0.html
Tom, Dave or anyone,
Doing some home work on a drum to disc brake swap.
I have a 1972 M300 chassis
Sorry I hit the wrong button and sent the wrong info.
Hat would be the disc brake info for the parts I have D:oH!
Here is what I have.
Rick pointed out the GVW differences and he has a great point( will the disc brake set up on the 75 M300 be heavy enough?
It also has 17.5 8 lug (not split) rims.
Looking over all the posts on this topic it appears that this disc brake set up will work but would like to hear from all of you and your experience, thank you.
Swapping out the PV instructions would be great!
Doesnââ,¬â,,¢t look like they just mount right up.
Your best starting place is to get the Service and Parts manuals (http://www.classicwinnebagos.com/forum/index.php?action=store;cat=42). They contain most of the reference information you are looking for. I am almost certain the brake boosters are different model. Master cylinder is definitely different (drum vs disk). I think there may be issues with the steering linkage.
Sorry for slow response. I am in the middle of moving to a new house.
Thatââ,¬â,,¢s ok, I understand.
I have the M 300-375 Chassis manual in print(came with the coach when I bought it)I also bought a couple from the your store and gonna get the new one also that covers the 75ââ,¬â,,¢. And Iââ,¬â,,¢ll start diggin and dig in to the posts again and make notes
On the booster/MC set up:
Thanks Iââ,¬â,,¢ll take a closer look;
they look just like my 72 and what you show on your page, Bendix Master-Vac same set up and mounted the same way.
All these parts are free and Iââ,¬â,,¢m gonna go back and grab the whole set up so at least I can get part numbers.
The MC and PV are different for sure.
Hope Tom can weigh in with details with what he did on the PV plumbing.
Steering linkage:
Good point, Iââ,¬â,,¢ll dig in the manuals and measure and eyeball things.
The spindle measures the same and from what I have read in the past posts will interchange; or I can Tap the one hole for the caliper mounting bracket.
I think Iââ,¬â,,¢ll run back down and grab all that is relevant before it gets crushed🙁
Thank You Dave for all you and everybody do!
Any more thoughts or advice would be appreciated.