First i would like to say Hi. I'm from the uk i love old cars mainly vw W% . I hav 2 bugs and a 69 bay window camper :)clap .
As a family we have out grown the vw so i went on the search for something different.
This is what i ended up with....
I soon decided it was to Rotten To do anything with its very low mileage 18000 miles it's been it the uk since 1980. So i decide i will rebody her.... ??? :)clap :'(
Started making the frame.
Making the rear end.
Bed over cab
Nice curves.
Fixing the rear brakes.
No cill new cill made and welded on.
Right for the sides I'm using grp the sheets are 7.5m by 2.5m.
Right i have to bond the grp to the side of harvery
The first glue was crap and with in days it started to fall off $@!#@! i?? .
So i bought a different adhesive bond it pro gb and it worked a treat.
Wow, great Work :)ThmbUp
Thomas
And you're calling that a "remodel"!!! Bit of an understatement. Wow, fantastic.
And I am worried about how to reskin mine!??? GOOD LORD!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I was looking at the first pic thinking "yea that is a nice one" and BAM, hit the second pic.! And built out of full sized lumber, that is going to be a heavy one but it will be SOLID. Very nice work. Keep the pictures coming. I am especially interested in the siding, can you give more specifics on it. I realize it will be different material from UK to US but I am sure I can cross it over.
Yeah, me too. I know GRP is glass reinforced plastic...British for fiberglass. I wonder if it's Filon?
GOOD LORD about say's it best. D:oH! Nice work though. And I thought some of the rebuild projects on the Old Winnebago's were ambitious. Well done.
Wow. What a nice project!
Quote from: brians1969 on May 01, 2016, 12:02 PM
Yeah, me too. I know GRP is glass reinforced plastic...British for fiberglass. I wonder if it's Filon?
Then that is probably the same as FRP here. Fiberglass Reinforced Plastic, or Panel. Depending on who you talk to.
Yeah sounds the same really strong stuff.
I'm trying to get around the wiring at the moment.
Don't you hate it when people try to do wiring and make a bloody mess. Spent most of the day making new wiring looms for the old girl. Hm?
Quote from: Rickf1985 on May 01, 2016, 10:52 AM
And I am worried about how to reskin mine!??? GOOD LORD!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I was looking at the first pic thinking "yea that is a nice one" and BAM, hit the second pic.! And built out of full sized lumber, that is going to be a heavy one but it will be SOLID. Very nice work. Keep the pictures coming. I am especially interested in the siding, can you give more specifics on it. I realize it will be different material from UK to US but I am sure I can cross it over.
I'm hoping it's going to be the same weight. Before i started it weighed 3.9 tonnes i have shortened it by 6 foot and the bed over cab was bloodly heavy what i have over the cab now is under half the weight.
It will be interesting to see how much it weighs when i finish.
Same here....1st pic, nice looking mountain scene on the side of that rig, 2nd pic, BAM! cab and chassis! You've got some serious ambition, Im jealous, keep up the good work.
Started the insulation today.
Aluminum waiting to go on the roof of the rv.
From front curve to back curve.
Todays the day. I had to struggle my bum of getting
That alloy up there.
Looks good, will that wrap all the way down the front too? If so that will make for a very water tight roof. :)ThmbUp
Yep from the bottom of the front curve all the way to
The bottom of the back curve. ;)
Holy cow do plan on shaving with that thing? :)rotflmao Look great.
Yeah it was a bit bright putting it on today. I'm a bit worried about sun glare with other drivers on the road. W%
It will keep them from tailgating.
Rear lights in and number plate.
You have a dent already!
That was on the roll already a bit cheesed of with it.
But i have some graphics going on the back so it might hide it. W%
Sorry about the delay on posting.
I've been busy.
I've refitted the fuel tank with all new hoses.
I also made and replaced all of the copper brake lines some were only on buy a couple of turns I'm glad i replaced them. Changed the oil in the diff. I changed the oil in the engine along with oil filter spark plugs leads air filter. Fitted the number plate light which is from a motorbike so i have an extra light and brake light. The alloy trim is also starting to go on.
I cannot wait to see picture of the whole thing. This is an amazing transformation from the looks of it. And you are not working in an enclosed shop either.
You mentioned copper brake lines ? Copper is not suitable for Hydrolic brake lines They should be steel or special no rust material !Frank
They use copper alloy overseas on a lot of cars.
Yeah we use copper over her. I took copper of her and put
It back on her. ;)
That is surprising that it had copper on it. They do not use copper lines from the factory over here. You can get it in the parts store as a replacement, most people do not realize it is copper alloy because it is steel colored but it is easy to bend, you can bend it easily by hand. The real steel lines are much harder to bent accurately to bend by hand.
Well I've been busy today one side nearly finshed.
I have managed to get the old coleman furnace working after 10 years of not working. Finish all of the insulation in side. :)
Sorry for the delay it's been raining a lot here.
I've managed to tackle the battery tray and bulk head today.
Now just to clean up welds and seam seal it and paint it.
Under side of battery tray.
Amazing, absolutely amazing. Well done mate. She's going to look amazing when you get her done.
Right just tackled the drivers side footwell.
Just the seam sealer and top coat of paint to go.
This is the bit the steering column has to though.
Ok just thinking about colours now what do you guys
Think of this colour.
Wow. Superb welding skills.
:)ThmbUp love that color :)ThmbUp
I also love that color, always have.
That thing was obviously in worse shape than it looked like it was in the beginning!
On the whole she's not to bad driver floor was gone
Scuttle above the engine has but I've bodged that up for the time being over winter i will take the engine and box out and do it properly.
That is a hard, and expensive, color to paint. It is very touchy with getting the shade to blend evenly throughout the whole job. And on a monster palette like you have! I can't wait to see it.
Had a good day on the rv today I've plyed the ceiling started making the bunk beds and nearly finshed the trim on the passengers side.
Top notch work ..... After seeing all the time and effort you are putting into the floor pans and engine compartment are you making any mods to reduce the heat transferred from the engine to the engine cover. I remember how hot the covers became with the big block manifolds. I tried a few things to reduce the heat but never had much luck ... Keep up with the quality work it looks great .... ☺
I might try some ceramic blanket on the underside of the cover apart from that i will see what it is like.
Thanks I've got a dead line we are going away in it in 3 weeks. W%
I was planning to do a body off job on her i was only hoping to seal the leaks and tart up the inside, but it was to far gone. Any how I've done a bit more on the bunk beds
Quote from: Rickf1985 on June 28, 2016, 08:24 PM
That is a hard, and expensive, color to paint. It is very touchy with getting the shade to blend evenly throughout the whole job. And on a monster palette like you have! I can't wait to see it.
Hi Rick.
I'm not spraying the whole thing just the cab.
So hopefully should be ok. W% :)ThmbUp
Come on, GO FOR IT! :D :D ;) ;) ;) Copper metallic basecoat clearcoat. One coat of clear and then a second coat of clear mixed with a thinned copper metallic paint and then a third and fourth coat of clear. You could reach right into the paint! If your painting skills are equal to your metalworking and woodworking skills you are up to it.
She moved under her own power and stopped today
It's getting closer to the mot. D:oH!
Well tomorrow is the big day she's going for her mot.
She is all insured and has got break down cover. 🙈🙉🙊
Better get another headlight!
Hopefully it should be ok they only check the beam pattern on dip beam not full beam. But yes i will be getting new light's they are on my list.
I also need two new rear shocks a drivers side manifold
Im looking to get these from rockauto are they any good.
I buy a lot of my stuff from them. It can be a pain trying to decide which part to get sometimes since they give such a long list for each part and sometimes the list is not real accurate. If it does not sound just right do a bit of research on it first. But overall I have been very happy with them, pretty fast shipping to me anyway, I don't know about overseas. Sent you a pm about your reverse switch also.
Hi I've ordered from them 3 times all turn up within 5 days some parts turned up after 3 days i?? They must use magic fairy dust. I've had a problem with some brake shoes right box wrong part in side they replaced and shipped out to me foc.
Well she has passed the mot today. I started to make the rear seats today.
Also fitted a stereo.
Sparks flying... that will be a great seat! Like the speaker install too!
Quote from: sasktrini on July 25, 2016, 06:41 PM
Sparks flying... that will be a great seat! Like the speaker install too!
Thanks I've still got 4 more speakers to go 6x9. D:oH!
It will be rocking by the time I've finshed. W%
Sorry for the delay in replying. She has been on her first camping trip only a 60 mile trip but its all country road so i never went above 50mph.
It went quite well. But the exhaust manifold got very hot and i could here the petrol boiling in the carb is this normal? I guess the timing is out which is next on the list and a carb tune up.
Not normal to hear the carb boiling, if the timing is too far retarded then it will run quite hot. Check to make sure all of your vacuum lines are connected and in good condition since this can also affect timing.
Well I'm back since coming back from the camping trip last year the old dodge has just been sitting there. So the first thing on the list to do is to take the engine out as the bulkhead/firewall needs welding. When the engine is out I will spray the engine and the engine bay.
Also it would be a good time to refresh the engine, I'm going to take the heads of and get them skimmed and replace a few leaky gaskets. It's also a good time to upgrade the engine i was thinking of using one of these http://www.manciniracing.com/fboigboxrevl.html
And this http://fitechefi.com/products/30003/ anybody had any experience with them?
Wow ! very ambitious project to say the least. You have some skills.
yep, he's hired
That seems like it would be a good combination of parts, note that the ignition needs to be used with a Pertronics setup. A couple of other things that will definitely help you out would be a set of long tube headers and a crossover pipe in the dual exhaust. Be sure to replace the timing chain and gears while you are in there. An alternative way to go with the ignition would be a HEI distributor where everything is in the distributor.
Hi rick it's been a long time since I've been on here. Winter is the busiest time of year for me. Plus we had a new addition to the family a little girl called skyla.
I was thinking of using a hei distributor but which one is the best for around $150ish.
Quote from: budder on February 26, 2017, 11:40 AM
Hi rick it's been a long time since I've been on here. Winter is the busiest time of year for me. Plus we had a new addition to the family a little girl called skyla.
I was thinking of using a hei distributor but which one is the best for around $150ish.
Here is a link to look through for an HEI distributor, I think that is a better way to go than all of the associated hardware that can go bad with the Dodge system. With the HEI all of the parts are readily available in any parts store, even over there I am sure.
https://www.amazon.com/s/?ie=UTF8&keywords=dodge+hei+distributor&tag=googhydr-20&index=aps&hvadid=177561687283&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=13691471200479511109&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=e&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9003783&hvtargid=kwd-16982898268&ref=pd_sl_5i0nth72fo_e (https://www.amazon.com/s/?ie=UTF8&keywords=dodge+hei+distributor&tag=googhydr-20&index=aps&hvadid=177561687283&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=13691471200479511109&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=e&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9003783&hvtargid=kwd-16982898268&ref=pd_sl_5i0nth72fo_e)
Hey Rick, just picked up an Edelbrock Four Barrel Cab 1411 a 2650 to replace my Thermoquat. Do I need a new gasket or a plate or something before I bolt it on. ????????????What do you think of the carb swap. Hm?
Quote from: LJ-TJ on February 28, 2017, 09:55 AM
Hey Rick, just picked up an Edelbrock Four Barrel Cab 1411 a 2650 to replace my Thermoquat. Do I need a new gasket or a plate or something before I bolt it on. ??? ??? ??? ???What do you think of the carb swap. Hm?
Welllllllll, I think you jumped Budders thread but I will answer this question, I think the carb is and excellent choice, I have no idea what a 2650 is and you will need a spread bore to square bore adapter plate and the corresponding gaskets which may come with it. Send me an e-mail.
Sorry D:oH! $@!#@! D:oH! idot
Don't worry We are all idiot's on here. W%
So I got home early today so I spent a hour on the old dodge.
Well the weather was like a summers day today.
I've taken more of the engine ready for removal.
Just a few more wires and unbolt the gearbox then it should be ready to come out.
This is one of the reasons the engine has to come out.
A bodge job on the firewall with glas fibre.
Well the rain held off. I've managed to get all of the front suspension and steering parts of. All that is left is to unbolt the gearbox engine mounts and exhaust.
A for effort , mighty intensive job = keep up the good work
Amazing, absolutely amazing. WOW! Hang in there. Oh...............the toilet paper. I meant to ask. Was that for the moment when you looked at the project and what you have done and went Ooooooh shoot. :)rotflmao :)rotflmao :)rotflmao
I thought those were tissues on a roll?
Quote from: LJ-TJ on March 19, 2017, 05:20 PM
Amazing, absolutely amazing. WOW! Hang in there. Oh...............the toilet paper. I meant to ask. Was that for the moment when you looked at the project and what you have done and went Ooooooh shoot. :)rotflmao :)rotflmao :)rotflmao
That's not toilet paper its paper towel but it can be used as both. ???
I knew that :)rotflmao
Your getting after it ..way to go ..I had a 76 Shasta travel trailer we peeled back the aluminum and refrained the front end but nothing this major
Yeah engine is out.
And apart. ;)
Rick whats the best manifold to use with this dodge 440.
It does not seem right to have a big nut sticking up in the manifold N:( .
Edelbrock Performer Intake Manifold# 2191 Edelbrock Performer intake manifold are low-rise, dual-plane designs with patented runner tuning and a 180 degree firing order that you won't find with the competition. This combination boosts torque over a wide rpm range, from idle to 5,500 rpm. These manifolds also deliver improved throttle response over stock intakes and are available in both EGR and non-EGR style. my opinion
Yep that sounds like the kiddie. I will have to see the best place to buy one. Hm?
That would be my choice. And since you have it so far apart I suggest the Performer RV cam and lifters to go with it. That is a great combo for bottom end power, which is what you need for a heavy vehicle. It is not for high end RPM but up to around 4500 RPM it will pull like a tank. Someone else on here just did this and mentioned they advanced the cam by 5 degrees and gained even more bottom end. Something I would definitely consult with Edelbrock about.
Something like this rick.
MAHLE/CLEVITE ]Hydraulic Camshaft; MONACO MPG PERFORMER CHECK SPRINGS FOR COIL BINDING .420" VLV LIFT, INT .443" VLV LIFT, EXH 112 DEG LOBE SPREAD 204 DEG INT DURATION 214 DEG EXH DURATION
Or there is this one from summit.
https://m.summitracing.com/parts/sum-k6400 (https://m.summitracing.com/parts/sum-k6400)
Cam and Lifters, Hydraulic Flat Tappet, Advertised Duration 288/298, Lift .444/.466, Chrysler, Big Block, Kit.
I would only use the Edelbrock cam with the Edelbrock manifold since they were engineered to work together and they do work together very well. Many times it has been proven that one cam with someone elses manifold will not work as well.
I'm with rick on this one, cant beat the engineering
I used the Edelbrock performer intake on my 440 but called up comp cams and gave them the specs on the engine and vehicle. They sent me a 21-221-4 cam. They said to not advance it with the timing gear set. I ran it at normal position for a couple of years as they instructed then pulled the cover and advanced it 5 degrees. It made a HUGE difference. Advance it. It moves the power down lower in the RPM range, right where we need it. I also used Thorley long tube headers which stopped the cooking of the VC gaskets and helped it breath that much better. I installed a MSD ignition, but did not notice much difference. If yours has the Dodge electronic ignition, it is good, so run it.
The biggest bang for the buck, hands down, is fuel injection. I used the Powerjection III, but I do not think they are making it any more. Buy one from Edelbrock. You have so much time and $$ into her, dont stop now. Fuel injection will make it run like a new car. Turn key and go. Better mileage and vastly improved driveablility.
I would be interested to see the cam cards for both the Edelbrock and Comp cams and compare the specs. Especially the lobe center and valve timing specs. I would be curious to see if Edelbrock engineered the advance into their cam. That is what you have to be careful of when using different brands. They all have their own ideas on how and where to make power.
Here is a link to the full spec sheet on the Comp Cams 21-221-4 that I have in my coach:
http://www.compcams.com/(S(vuszczyg234lph45zvyjhong))/Company/CC/cam-specs/Details.aspx?csid=705&sb=0 (http://www.compcams.com/(S(vuszczyg234lph45zvyjhong))/Company/CC/cam-specs/Details.aspx?csid=705&sb=0)
Impressive specs and very close to the Edelbrock, Here is the short version of the Performer plus.
http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive/mc/camshafts/chrysler-bb.shtml (http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive/mc/camshafts/chrysler-bb.shtml)
And here is a link with a LOT of very good info to help you make wise decisions regardless of whose parts you use. Especially take note of the CFM calculations for carburetor sizing. This is something people have done wrong for many years is use too big of a carburetor.
http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive/misc/tech-center/tech-discussion.shtml (http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive/misc/tech-center/tech-discussion.shtml)
Add this one to the brain teasers, Lobe separation. Closer is better...............up to a point. Around 108 you will sound like a race motor with no idle vacuum even with an RV cam so 110-112 is a very good place to be.
http://www.compcams.com/Pages/413/cam-timing-lobe-separation-angle.aspx
Administrator Att: These cam & carb specs need included with MPG or performance page There is a wealth of info here for both Frank
There's even a lot more tech data covering tires, suspension, aerodynamics, etc. which could be included which affects gas mileage. If anyone wants to, they can add a topic and include the links on the Misc board and have the title include its relevance to mpg.
Thanks guys for all of the info on cams and inlets before I buy any stuff I will sit down and do alot of research.
Well I've stripped abit more stuff from the engine bay.
Cut some of the rust :'( D:oH! .
I also managed to clean and paint spray a few parts this weekend. :)clap
And these
lookin good :)ThmbUp
Sorry Mark I thought you had some help with that stuff Frank
I'm trying to decide what front shocks to buy would my front axle be a 4000lb or not?. Hm?
Well I'm back been busy at work.
I've managed to do a little to the body work.
All rust and fibreglass cut out and welded.
Here's the pieces of fibreglass I pulled off.
#bodgejob.
The bulk head has been cut out and welded up and filled in just need to sand now.
lookin good
Do a whole lot of insuating with Dynamat or similar while you have it totally stripped out and you can get to all of that body area you will not be able to access later. It will be so much quieter down the road.
X2 On the sound deadening suggestion.
wow ! and ive been whining about replacing my roof! I have a question I didnt see the answer to ... What did you glue the aluminum for the roof down to the wood with?
Sorry for the late reply life has been hectic these last few months I used bond it gb pro to bond the alloy to the rv.
I've been busy the last few nice rebuilding the engine.
I have a question with the cylinder heads and the inlet manifold what is the half moon shape above the egr port on the head and is it. Supposed to be open like this? Hm?
That's the engine back together. First coat of paint.
Looks nice :)ThmbUp
Thomas
Hey Thomas, Glad to see you are still hanging around!
Amazing skills, nice work!
Quote from: Rickf1985 on August 28, 2017, 10:02 AM
Hey Thomas, Glad to see you are still hanging around!
Hi rick good to see you are still around :)clap on the 440 heads the centre port that feeds the egr valve has a half moon around it but the inlet doesn't cover it is this normal?.
I saw that but I did not reply since I am not positive on the answer. I was hoping Dave or the other Dodge guy that has turned up lately would answer. If all else fails send an e-mail to Edelbrock and I am sure they can tell you.
QuoteI've been busy the last few nice rebuilding the engine.
I have a question with the cylinder heads and the inlet manifold what is the half moon shape above the egr port on the head and is it. Supposed to be open like this? (https://www.classicwinnebagos.com/forum/Smileys/default/hmm2.gif)
I went out and looked at my 1977 chassis 440-3 and yes, I have the open space on both heads. I do not know what they are for.
The air space is just an air gap between the exhaust crossover (manifold preheat) and the head. I routes some exhaust up and across the manifold to heat it. The gap you see is just an air gap around the port. Normal. It is covered if you get an Edelbrock manifold.