Sent: 4/16/2004
Have 1979 Brave with a 440Dodge. Need to know what a good paint to use on the plastic or fiberglass above windows in front,it is spider-webbing.Trying to stop-possible leaks and cracks. Thanks! Mike
Sent: 4/17/2004
The exterior paint is acrylic enamel and acrylic lacquer automotive paint - Winnebago sells It in 12 Oz . spraycans You base exterior color is Off White for 79 brave winnebago part #041561-01-(03)-000 . You can also buy it from an auto store that deals in automotive paint or a auto paint supply house . if you want to mix and spray with a paint gun - they should also have a small spray setup for use with mixed paint with a pressure canister attached (similar to a spray can but refillable and reuseable )- this may be more economicle way to go depending on the size of the area you are painting as you need to buy the paint and the correct thinner ) - the Dupont paint numbers fro you 79 brave are Off white # 4996 - Orange # 7455 - BLUE # 5183 - Brown # 29607 - Green # 7966 - a Good paint autopaint supplier will be able to cross the dupont numbers to the brand they carry - sand the original paint smooth if still sticking well no need to remove it all . No difference between painting fiberglass and aluminum . Sea Hag
Sent: 4/17/2004
I would agree with Sea Hag's posting. If you want a cheaper costing paint, go to Menards and get Rust-o-leum gallon paint. Apply with a sponge roller with cornered edges. No lines will show. It comes in high gloss and goes on and covers nicely. This of course is the poor man's version of automotive paint.
Sent: 4/17/2004
I don't know if you have Tractor Supply stores in your area but, they sell tractor paint by the gallon for a less than Rustoleum and it is for use on farm equipment so it is durable. I used it on my boat trailer. - Sob
Sent: 4/17/2004
Funny you should mention that Sob. The bottom half of my Chieftain is painted with the Tractor Supply paint. I used International Harvester White. Comes in Gallons, Quarts and spray cans.
Dave
Sent: 7/19/2004
At our Tractor supply store here in indiana i've seen all different colors of paint for aluminium, It said it rite on the can aluminium & galvinized paint.
Sent: 7/19/2004
The main problem with my paint flakeing is, that it 's 28 years old . I would agree that the proper primer is important ' but most good automotive or industrial enamel primers will adhere to aluminum . You must properly prepare the surface first . this would include lightly sanding ( 180 to 220 grit )the entire surface whether it be bare or still painted .this removes any loose paint and gives the primer someting to stick to . Then you must remove the dust with air and a tach cloth . Right before you prime you must clean the entire surface with a rag and a pre cleaner / wax remover . You can use the proper tinner as a sustitute . then prime the entire area not just the bare spots . this process must be repaeted again using a fine grit (220 min ) before finish coat .
Sea Hag
Sent: 7/28/2004
Sea Hag (that's what I call my wife when I want to get her po'ed) is correct on the prep. But you should always use an etching primer on bare aliuminum.
NAPA, Autozone etc. sells etching primer in spray cans. Rustolem & tractor paint have 2 problems. They take forever to dry, and they lose their shine quick. I would never brush or roll the paint on your RV. If you do it will crack, and it'll be a beech to strip it and do it right at a later date.
Your better off using spray cans. It'll dull quickly too, but at least it won't be as thick. Keep the can even with the panel (don't swing your arm in an arch) watch your spray pattern and overlap by 50%.
If you don't have access to a compressor & DA sander, you can use an electric vibrating sander. NEVER use a sanding disc on a drill! It'll will gouge everything to death. Above all remember, paint hides nothing, it magnifies. And inperfections in your prep work will look 10x worse when there is paint on it.
Bodywork is a pain without the right equipment. But with time and A LOT of patience you can make it look good.
Sent: 7/28/2004
"Bodywork is a pain without the right equipment."
Man is that an understatement. I spent hours and hours and hours and hours on my rig and it though it looks ok, it is no where near what an experienced bodyshop can do. The tractor paint does take a while to dry. Lasting shine? Jury still out on that one. I know chrome paint CANNOT be waxed. It turns grey. Pull masking tape off after the paint has taken a set. Never let it dry or it will pull the good paint off with it (Paint has to be flexable so it will lift without pulling chips off). The paint can run easily on the smooth surface when using a spray gun (compressor) setup. Can really be a challenge when overlapping the previous section you just sprayed. Sharp edges cannot hold paint like a flat panel so it can run. Outdoor spraying means bugs. Never spray at night because the lights attract even more bugs. Be prepared to apply all coats in one session. The paint has to just set for 15 minutes between coats then spary again. This allows the chemicals in each layer to mix and bond together forming a stronger overall coat. All I can say is, while in my situation, I would do it again, I would never apply for a job as a paint and body man.
Oh, I chose Tractor paint because I could get a close color, was priced right, intended for home spraying, comes in gallons for the big job, and comes in spray cans for touchups along the way. While many of your rigs here are almost a brite white, mine is the sandy tan color. I used International Harverster White to get a close match to the original color. Stripes where my own custom mix. Mine also has a bronze like strip. I used the metalic bronze spray paint but would not recommend it now. Does not dry smooth. More like light sandpaper. Win some, loose some.
Dave
Sent: 7/28/2004
"I would never apply for a job as a paint and body man."
Did it for years until it made me sick.
Spray a coat, puke. Spray a coat, puke. Spray a coat, dry heaves 'cause there was nothing left.
People need to understand, it's not just what you breath in. You absorb toxins through your skin, eyes, etc.
I painted the nose of my 78 Brave with 1 step urethane because I had the hardner and reducer. Thought it would be a cheap way out.
$56 a quart for the paint!
Guess I've been out of it longer than I thought.
Glad I've got an HVLP spray gun. Only took about 1/2 a quart.
I buffed and waxed the other 3 sides.
You've got no idea how big these things are until you go up and down a ladder buffing them out!
First trip out people with $200K+ coaches were telling me how great it looked.
I had to look up to thank them, all bent over with back pain! hehe
[size=78%]Painting a rig with a brush... [/size]
Actually, I read that if you use marine paint. This can ? eliminate/reduce brush strokes ...
Sent: 5/30/2006
Yes, using marine paint can reduce brush strokes, but that is all dependent on the paint and the process used. You actually use a roller for the large areas, doing small portions at a time, and immediately follow over the area just painted with a very soft brush... the expensive kind. It's called "feathering"... and... marine paint is horribly expensive!
I did my rig with a roller and brush, using rustoleum, and it looks fine from a few feet away. 2 years later, it shows absolutely no sign of wear and still shines. But, If you want a better finish and not get killed in cost... buy spray cans and a trigger/nozzle. Yes, you still have to tape and paper the rig, but the extra effort is well worth it for a smooth finish.
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Sent: 5/31/2006
The cheap semi gloss white walmart paint .96 a can matches the white paint on my 72 Brave.
Gary
Sent: 6/5/2006
Nice info on painting! Here is what I know:
The best primer for aluminum is zinc oxide (replacing zinc chromate for health reasons) or an etching primer. These can be had from www.aircraftspruce.com (http://www.aircraftspruce.com) or others.
Question: what are the tan & brown colors for my '72 D22C?
I am thinking of adding a polished aluminum look below the flying W (see test pics).
Comments?
Where do I get the stencil to repaint my "CHIEFTIAN" ?
Thanks,
John
Sent: 6/25/2006
I used Rustoleum Professional a year ago, with a brush. The paint is awesome!!! One coat on the white, 2 on the green stripes...
Still holding strong today...
DON'T use a brush, though! Use a roller, or a sprayer!!! From 15 yards away, the Ark looks brand new...from a few feet away, you can see the brush strokes.
Sob's rig turned out beautifully with a roller though...
Kev
Almost three years ago now i painted my Ford Probe with Black Rustoleum Professional using a small 4" foam roller. It is a technique outlined in HotRod magazine and in several forums online. For the car you thin the paint by about 20% with thinner and roll on several coats and wetsand in between. The thinner paint lays almost totally smooth on application. I intend to do the Winne similarly... i will not wetsand it between coats and i won't go quite as thin with the paint. I wax the Probe about once a year with a good wax and a buffer and it still looks great, that whole paintjob including all the body work stuff ran me $350 and only took a week(for six thin coats, drying sanding and buffing).
It has now been 5 years since I painted my rig with Rustoleum. Every bit as good and shiny as day 1 after doing it. No flaking, no blistering, no sun fade... nada.
I didn't use any primer. I painted over the original paint, and over a large section of bare aluminum. The only thing I did was thoroughly surface prep the areas.
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As for the statements that rolling and/or brushing on will ripple, crack or flake in just a couple years... I beg to differ as The photo above was taken 5 years after I painted the rig... still beautiful and almost as perfect as the week I painted it.
You can view this repaint project in (http://www.classicwinnebagos.com/forum/index.php?action=mgallery;sa=album;id=219)My Photo Album[/u][/url]
Pharaoh, by surface prep do you mean you sanded or did you just get it really clean, wax and dust free?? and did you roll or spray on the rustoleum?
Thanks, I should have explained that better.
I thoroughly washed and rinsed the rig first. I then sanded the entire rig with 500 grit emery and repeated the wash and rinse. I used a scrub brush during the washing, taking my time and thoroughly scrubbing every inch to ensure all oil, wax, or other substance was removed and to cause any borderline "flaking" areas to be exposed.
I removed the flaking, oxydized paint using a paint remover wheel on a drill, and then washed and rinsed that area again.
I used a 1" brush to paint around the windows, trim, and hard to reach spots and a 4" roller for the main areas.
Man has it been six years since I did this with TSC Tractor Paint? How time flies.
Doing a good prep job is going be one of the most important steps. I most likely didn't do it all right and have several places that were bubbling up and flaking. WIll be having to redo several areas but is worth it. So do take the time to prep it first.
Dave
as far as paints go it's always prep that counts. here's one place i've delt with that has an excellent product at a good price for a complete paint kit. the have 144 factory colors and several are close to winnie colors
http://www.tcpglobal.com/RestorationShop/
I shouldn't have read all this! Now I'm intimidated! ???
Ed, it all depends on what you want to do. Me, I just scrubbed the RV down and rolled on the Rustoleum and, as anyone who's seen it will tell you, after 4 years, it looks the same as when I first painted it.
Scrubbed and painted? And sanded. And cleaned more. Plus I have dings and holes that have to be filled in. Ah, me. A lifetime project, I suppose.
It's not what to end up with. It's what needs to be done before I can even START to make it end up that way. i??
How about getting it wrapped. I see them doing this to race cars, trucks, etc. Wonder how much that would cost.
Alot more than a can of paint and a roller. D:oH! :( I started checking but when it got over a grand, I lost interest. Need smooth surface also. :(
I just got a 73 winnebago brave. I raised my hand too many times at an auction.
anyhow its in pretty good shape but the paint is rough on the outside. I dont have much in this camper and dont want to put a lot into the paint job. can i just clean it and roll on a house paint or rustoleum paint.
anyone have any advice or tips for getting this camper to look the way it should
Maaco auto body shop
If you do it yourself, remember that prep is about 90% of the job.
I JUST painted my 74. It took about 60 hours for me to sand it properly, remove all of the old caulking, re caulk it, mask it, and paint it. I'd have never thought it would've and I own a shop where we do small paint projects! He looks extremely good and dialed in now. Just a lot of work. I sprayed him with a single stage paint. It covers really nice and hide all of the sanding marks!! Hope that helps-John
http://www.flickr.com/photos/apexautospa/8097757680/ (http://www.flickr.com/photos/apexautospa/8097757680/)
http://www.flickr.com/photos/apexautospa/8097747149/ (http://www.flickr.com/photos/apexautospa/8097747149/)
eddie your paint job looks great. started on the stripping of the caulking today its going to take a while and i am running out of nice weather fast this season. i will see if i can get some pictures up of her
We painted our first RV, The Ark, with Rustoleum Professional paint, and it came out great, even though we brush painted it! Rustoleum Professional is self leveling and most of the brush strokes disappeared as the paint dried. With a roller, it would come out smooth as glass. Its a great high gloss paint that will last forever, and comes in gallons. Not a lot of color choices though...Black, White, Brown, Red, and Green in the gallons. Not cheap per gallon, about 30 bucks, but its a great paint and we only had to go one coat. The white is a brilliant white, and the green, which we used for the stripes, is a nice forest green. In the few years we owned the Ark, the paint stayed nice and shiny and the white stayed its brilliant white color. I highly recommend that paint if you are going to do it yourself with rollers. Available at Home Depot and Lowes so its easy to find in the gallon size.
Kev
The last several posts, starting with the question by "ovlo", have been added to the original topic since it covers it very well. Please read the first page of this topic.
What would you use on Fiberglass, Resin?
Later on I plan to repaint my RV as well, in the all ever bright YELLOW.
Since our RV was painted by a friend who owns a marine repair shop... he used AWLGRIP marine grade paint on both the aluminum sides and the fiberglass end caps.... to which some resin/glass repair was completed prior to painting her.... Pricey paint but... never have to wax it and won't fade....
Tina
I just painted the water heater door and exterior furnace cover. I used Rustoleum spray in the Antique White color. Matched my old paint almost exactly. Don't have the guts to paint the entire rig though. Admire those who do.
Great thread, and timely in my case as I'm about to just headfirst into painting my rig. I believe I've settled on the Rustoleum roller method that's been so well documented across the 'net. As of today, it's "Tan & Black". We will see what tomorrow brings, lol.
I'm a house painter and I'm going to paint my RV. I took all of the old flaking stripes and decals off with a 3M stripe removal wheel. I used a grinder/polisher on low speed and the stripes came right off without damaging the RV's surface. So now it's time to paint. I was planning on using my airless sprayer to apply a coat of top quality self priming exterior Acrylic house paint. I know Acrylic sticks to anything with proper preparation. My RV has a fiberglass corrugated surface.
Any feedback or suggestions would be appreciated. :)ThmbUp
I need to do a quick and dirty paint job on my 20X8, it's basically the same shape as a 72 Winnie Brave of the same size.When I bought it, I found out the original owner's wife didn't like the color, and decided to paint it. It's painted with house paint, so you can see all the fun little brush lines. I'm planning on doing a real paint job on it, but for now, I need to slap some primer grey on her...I'm asking for any suggestions for what type of paint, like spray cans or even just rolling it on, I don't have a sprayer, like I said, quick and dirty. I make fun of my RV being a brick, but I don't think I've ever taped something with as many straight lines, there's not a single curve on her...lol.Thanks guys
I would remove all the house paint......car paint wont like latex.....or just continue with house paint...
just got done painting my winnie used tremclad white paint used 1 gallon can but I sprayed it thinned it down with varsol used about 1 liter to 1 gallon here is a pic of her finished
That is a beautiful thing!!!
Probably $200+/- in materials depending on what you choose. House paint will be more economical than decent automotive paint but if you don't want to get sooo involved in the process, talk to your local Sherwin-Williams guy and stay with house paint. You may want to (or have a friend help) and run over it once with a low grit sand paper to smooth out what you can then tape off the things you can with blue painters tape, unscrew the things that unscrew (like marker lights, fillers or vents) and let'em hang (paint behind them not on them), roll on a primer that will work with the house paint and if its a good one, many but not all of the brush strokes will be minimized. A smooth knap roller should do the trick for a smoother finish. Stay away from darker colors (as they magnify imperfections and dents) and really consider whether to add any of the odd combinations you see sometime. It may seem cool when you do it but when its time to trade up or sell later in life, many potential buyers just ask "what were they thinking?" You know, like that bad tattoo that seemed like a good idea at the time [/size] . Look to lighter earth tones or off whites. An egg shell finish or something close will be make it easier to spray off road grime than some of the matte or flat finishes. You'll have to decide which you like best. Whatever you do, it's not permanent. If you don't like the finished product... do it again.
Mental,
Your i?? has been added to this, existing topic. Please read it from the beginning. Lots of great already posted to check out.
:)ThmbUp
It will take you just as long to do a wam, bam thank you mam job as it will to take your time to do the job right. Lets face it if the jobs worth doing, it's worth doing right the first time. The job your taking on is a big job no matter how you look at it. Hm? Try taking some Spray Nine and spray it on the paint and it should wipe the paint right off and then you have a clean surface to start with.
Another option would be plastidip. Easy DIY instalation, thousands of possible Colours.
Can I ask for your opinion?
I want to remove some custom painted things like the previous owner's "Hobo Hilton" and the old "Good Sam" decals s
Can I just quickly tape off that small area, or would you recommend doing the entire area? Would you recommend sanding those areas down, then painting, or just do a quick cover up. My RV is an ugly girl, I'm not looking to win any beauty pageants... but just want some of the goofy stuff covered up.
Decals you can get off with a heat gun and a razor blade. Be very careful with the blade and a very shallow angle and slowly cut the adhesive while you pull out on the decal. There are also those rubber decal remover wheels, I have never used them but others on here have had good luck with them. Do NOT paint over a decal, it might lift, It will crack and peel and you will see what you painted over almost as well as if you did not paint it.
I am getting on my TO-DO list to repaint my green on my Indian. Still debating about spray or roller....dont really want to rattle can it. Still thinking Hm? But, has anyone figured out which green is the closed to the Winnebago green in the rustoleum line? i??
Painted my 89 Pace used paint from Tractor supply came out Great
Quote from: gbooth on May 26, 2016, 09:16 PM
Painted my 89 Pace used paint from Tractor supply came out Great
That does look great !!! Good job :)ThmbUp
Rustoleum Hammered finish.
I used a brush, and roller.
Body work, and prep is not so important.
I bought a sprayer recently just for the hammered finish paint on some products I make, but have not had a chance to use it.
(https://www.classicwinnebagos.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi300.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fnn39%2Fjtpbucket%2FIMG_5696.jpg&hash=2a3457485e696bc023a33d3086a30be338a18c99)
Both the Pace and the Chieftain look great!
Seems to me there's no one "correct" method and product. It all comes down to how much time and money you can afford to invest, and what look you're after. I've never been able to afford a professional repaint job so I've shot a few cars and trucks by the "Shade Tree Method" using basic automotive enamel from NAPA. Results were about what I expected: dust sticking to paint, orangepeel, skips and sags, but overall they looked better After than Before. I also did one very rushed, low buck project with a generic Rustoleum-type paint which lasted a surprising 10 years before succumbing to lack of surface prep! The one I was happiest with, oddly enough, was brick-red flat Rustoleum applied with a long-nap roller after a light scuff sanding. The roller left a nubbly texture so dings and dents didn't show as bad, and I applied wax after the paint cured. End result, a textured satin finish with pretty good staying power! 6 years old and still lookin' good!
Having seen that, I wouldn't hesitate to use a roller and a flat or satin paint on my Winnie. I'm seeing more and more custom cars and trucks with good quality flat-finish paint jobs. So why not RVs? I know flat doesn't deflect UV damage as well as gloss paint but if I have to choose between messing up a gloss paint job and getting a decent result on a flat paint job I know which one I will go for!
Got a chance to use the ceiling texture sprayer today with a couple quarts of brown hammered metal finish... good results.. no thinning of the paint required
Before we started.
(https://www.classicwinnebagos.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fblackhillslaserdesigns.com%2Fuploads%2F3%2F4%2F4%2F8%2F34485022%2F2007841_orig.jpg&hash=f1b79df682ad71a65b61636500c545262b082e06)
Took us all summer to remove the decals, sand, primer and paint. Also fix some exterior issues.
(https://www.classicwinnebagos.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fblackhillslaserdesigns.com%2Fuploads%2F3%2F4%2F4%2F8%2F34485022%2F5222064_orig.jpg&hash=50300962de61cce8fe5d62bd0d0675bf47fb51a1)
We used PPG epoxy primer and PPG acrylic enamel single stage paint. Total cost for primer and paint was around $2500-$3000 but there is 3 coats each of primer and paint. I sprayed it with a Devilbiss paint gun which was just under $250. The painting is easy, it's all the prep work getting there.
EASY!!??? I painted one of these WAYYYYY back when I was an automotive painter and I did not find it easy. Just to get even coverage I had two helpers that did nothing but constantly run with two step ladders and a scaffold board so I could keep the paint flowing evenly top to bottom. I don't know what was worse, an RV or a 40 foot speed boat. Either way I can't picture doing it outside and by myself!
By the way, That is an excellent looking rig!
Quote from: wislawman on February 10, 2010, 07:23 PM
Sent: 4/17/2004
I would agree with Sea Hag's posting. If you want a cheaper costing paint, go to Menards and get Rust-o-leum gallon paint. Apply with a sponge roller with cornered edges. No lines will show. It comes in high gloss and goes on and covers nicely. This of course is the poor man's version of automotive paint.
I plan on doing the sponge roller techniques on my rv . .eh at exactly do you mean a sponge roller with cornered edges ? I think the rollers I got have tapered edges ..is there different types of foam rollers?
checking to see if anyone has ever used this stuff before ..I found this at home depot the other day and I was wondering if anyone has used it ..it says it eliminates brush and roller marks ..I plan on using the roller method for my rv ..I have the rustoleum professional ..I saw this stuff and wondered if it would help any ..id also like some helpful info for roller painting fiberglass ..i plan on scrubbing the fiberglass down really good with a 3m scotch brite pad ..they sand and clean the surface really well ..do yall think i need to prime it before i roller paint it or would the surface srubbing prep be good enough..i also have some rips in the fiberglass where they sideswiped something that i need to fix before i paint ..i have the taped now with the clear gorilla tape to keep water from getting in them .do yall think fiberglass would be the best fix for those ..and also back to the photo ..curious if anyone has used this stuff
Yall are not being very helpful on this post Hm? ..i need input...knowledge ...data ... yall are always so helpful :)clap ..i need to know which way to go i?? ....im fixing to paint ....lol
Quote from: Winnebago Warrior 94 on May 26, 2017, 11:20 PM
Yall are not being very helpful on this post Hm? ..i need input...knowledge ...data ... yall are always so helpful :)clap ..i need to know which way to go i?? ....im fixing to paint ....lol
I'm sorry but applying paint with a roller is for house walls. I just can't imagine painting a car, boat, motorcycle or even a big wheel with a roller.
To answer your question on prep, all you have to do is make it dull and using a scotchbrite pad will work fine. Just make sure there is no shiny spots.
Use a primer before painting also. I used an epoxy primer because it has a good bond but you can't roll that on, it has to be sprayed. I don't know what type of good primer can be rolled on for a vehicle.
Good luck.
There are paints that can be rolled on and look fantastic, Awlgrip is one of them. You are going to PAY for that performance. It is a marine paint and anything marine is expensive. It will last a long time since it is designed for the marine environment though. You are not generally going to get a smooth finish from household paints. The paint has to remain fluid long enough for it to flow out to a smooth finish and that is not going to happen with latex paints. And in the summer you are going to have a nice bug infested finish on the paint too.
Look in the projects section There are a few paint jobs , Incl my rattle can job , Materials were less than $500.00 Frank
True, you won't get a perfectly smooth finish using a roller. However, I did mine with a roller, and although the finish wasn't perfectly smooth, it looked fantastic and it was a lot less expensive than using spray-on automotive or marine paint. Especially marine paint! Roll on paint can be used for whatever you want to use it for, not just wood, paneling, or other "traditional" materials. Thinking outside the box provides a whole new world of possibilities to those willing to do so!
The choice is dependent on what your desired results are versus what extent and expense you are willing to go to accomplish it.
Automotive paint would be the best, but expensive, of course, and you need the spray equipment for it. Marine paint, IMO, is extremely expensive and won't last longer than automotive paint. Roll on paints are least expensive and durable, but you will need to take a little time and carefully use thinner to achieve the best smooth finish you can attain without runs. I haven't used that product you asked about but it, as well as other products, are made for just this purpose. The key is getting the mix right. When you do, you should have a very acceptable finish.
Roll on final results. 2nd photo is close up where you can see the imperfectly smooth finish (to some extent). It would have turned out even better by slightly thinning the paint.
It's always a good idea to use primer before painting.
Oh yes, I forgot to mention, I also painted my boats with roll-on.
And thinking more on this, you may be able to use roll-on paints with one of those airless spray guns which is what they were designed for. I haven't ever used one, so maybe members who have could give advice on that.
:) :)ThmbUp
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I have used the airless paint guns but I don't know if I would try to paint a RV with one. They put out a LOT of paint and they do it very FAST!!!! I used it mainly for painting lines on roads but when equipment needed painting that was what I used. The difference being is that it was all one color, totally, one color. The finish was not bad but there were runs. I guess with the proper tips and practice it would work, house painters use them all the time inside and out.
Painting is an art, and there are many different types of painting. I used to do custom painting on cars back in the 70's. Those jobs cost a couple thousand dollars back then, the same job today would be 15,000 dollars. And yet I can't paint a wall and make it look good to save my butt! N:( i??
I've painted steel cabinets with Rustoleum and a foam roller, that stuff takes so long to set up that it smooths out pretty nice and looks decent in the end. But I wouldn't put that on an RV, I'd use automotive paint. And if I didn't own the equipment I'd borrow a spray gun and compressor and blow it on way before trying to roll on that much paint. There's so much more work that goes into prep that it's not even worth it to try to cut corners on laying on the paint. It's like 90% prep work, 10% actual painting, for me anyway.
My hubby actually painted an older model Shasta travel trailer with rustoleum paint . .he sprayed it on and had to thin the paint ..it actually worked very well ..I could spray this one but I want to keep my original decal on the winnabago warrior and it is pretty big ..I just think the roller method would work good ..just not sure about it sticking to the fiberglass . .but I do plan on doing alot of scrubadubdubbing....I have a broke piece from around the bumberthat I may try it on the back side ..I haven't made up my mind to try it yet completely ..there is a guy on u tube that painted his trailer fiberglass doors with the rustoleum paint and he said it held up well he used the roller method ..I got the rustoleum professional ..the back of my trailer is aluminum metal and the sides and front are fiberglass
You know you can still get those decals new from Winnebago.
I didn't know I can get the decals from winnabago , ,you can get the mountain scene that is on the side of my rv and the pink and purple stripe ? I will have to check that out ..do I just call winnebago and ask them ? That would be cool
Ask and ye shall receive.
http://www.winnebagoparts.com/order-contact/catalog-documentation/
Thanks again and again rick I will call them and check it out
I'm painting my aluminum horse trailer with the rustoleum professional gloss white,paint and the sponge roller method mixed with the 100 percent minerals spirits and I cant brag on the finish enough ..like wow ..no roller marks on looks brand new ..I even checked out a,section on my Winnebago and it been on there for 4 weeks ..I've scratch tested it and so far so good ..hanging in there like a champ ..didnt even scratch off ..and looks like a smooth flawless finish ..my problem is finding a day to get,it,done,on ..cold weather and rain and etc won't let me finish ..lol I will keep y'all posted ..my horse trailer is a very smooth finish that would defiantly show up roller marks ..I'm really impressed ..my husband is fixing up a 1990 bronco and he,wants me,do do the rustoleum roller method on it ..he's hard to please ..ill keep y'all posted on progress..wouldn't believe it if I hadn't tried it
Different topic, but I used Tremco rust paint with a 3" roller on my shower stall with the same results. Two years later and you can't tell it has been painted.